Replace lower control arm bushings, HELP!!!

[frodiesel]

Why would you remove the steering to replace the lower control arm bushings?

Bc you have to slide the rack back to get lower control arm bolt out.

Just take the 3 19mm fasteners out and one 24mm. An extra couple minutes. Its not involved, but its a good time to change rack bushings.


I only had one frozen cam in the front passenger lower control arm bushing. In retrospect i should not have waited so long to put a sawzall to it. But it should be all done tomorrow.

Edit: worth all the time and effort. Took it to the next level and checked on my steering shaft fix, i suspected the welds had broken something in the rack was screwy.

And proof that the lifetime alignment are worth it.

 

[GJReefer]

This is the wrong way, melting the rubber.

This is the right way, heating the metal, releasing the rubber.

Gerado, I have to say thank you so much for your mini-writeup and these oics. Mentioning the sizzle of the rubber was extremely helpful as well. I got my LCAs all cleaned up and ready for the bushings when they get here extremely easily after reading your post.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are going to do a LCA bushing replacement for another member this Sunday. We plan on first trying out a balljoint press to get the bushings out. If that fails, we will employ a technique we learned on YouTube. It involves applying some pressure with a bottle jack and then using a little heat to pop the bushing free of the control arm.

Here's the video of the Bottle Jack / Torch Technique:

 

[JayRolla]

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are going to do a LCA bushing replacement for another member this Sunday. We plan on first trying out a balljoint press to get the bushings out. If that fails, we will employ a technique we learned on YouTube. It involves applying some pressure with a bottle jack and then using a little heat to pop the bushing free of the control arm.

Here's the video of the Bottle Jack / Torch Technique:

I recommend heating it up no madder the method. Makes clean up a lot less when you release the rubber from the control arm. Good luck. Hopefully cam bolts are but seized.

 

[fourfive]

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are going to do a LCA bushing replacement for another member this Sunday. We plan on first trying out a balljoint press to get the bushings out. If that fails, we will employ a technique we learned on YouTube. It involves applying some pressure with a bottle jack and then using a little heat to pop the bushing free of the control arm.

I attempted the LCA bushing removal with an OTC ball joint press I got off amazon when I was installing my whiteline bushings & didn't have any luck with the provided adapters. The bottle jack worked out great for me & I didn't use a torch. I soaked the bushings with some penetrating oil and let it sit while I worked on other stuff.

*Side note, I used the bottle jack method on 2 3rd gens and when I would come across a stubborn bushing, I would back off the pressure a little bit then pump till there was a good bit of pressure built back up & repeat until the bushing popped out.

 

[mtbtim]

Thank you very much for these tips. We'll be doing this repair tomorrow.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[frodiesel]

I used the oem bottle jack uder the rear passenger seat to pop out my old bushings. With a good set of sawzall blades its not that bad.

 

[shep0101]

I just put a 3" lift on my 2000 4runner, and the shop that did it said the could not align it perfectly due to rusted parts on the front suspension. They also said I should replace my A arms. I just need some help on what parts I should get to replace the A arms (OE A arms or sometype of after market due to the 3" lift). Also while I'm doing this work is there anything else I should do also? I have 220,000 miles on my rig right now too. Any help would be awesome.

 

[mtbtim]

I just put a 3" lift on my 2000 4runner, and the shop that did it said the could not align it perfectly due to rusted parts on the front suspension. They also said I should replace my A arms. I just need some help on what parts I should get to replace the A arms (OE A arms or sometype of after market due to the 3" lift). Also while I'm doing this work is there anything else I should do also? I have 220,000 miles on my rig right now too. Any help would be awesome.

Unless your Lower Control Arms are rusted out, I wouldn't replace them. The reason why the alignment shop was having difficulty was most likely due to the fact the cam adjusters are rusted in place inside the sleeves of the LCA bushings. With the cam adjusters rusted in place, the alignment tech can't adjust the camber or caster correctly. Rusted cam adjusters are a pretty common problem experienced by 3rd Gen owners, especially in areas where they salt the roads, but it also happens in other areas of the country too.

You'll need a reciprocating saw and some good blades. Diablo Demon Carbide Tipped Blades are suppose to be the shit. They will make cutting out any frozen cam adjusters much easier. In order to free the LCA from the frame, any frozen cam adjuster will need to be cut on both sides of the bushing.

The video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made for this repair covers everything except sawing out frozen cam adjusters. I had to saw out cam adjusters for someone else on another job but we didn't video it.

While you're doing this, if you've never replaced the lower balljoints, I'd replace them because they are a known failure point for our 3rd Gens. I'd also take a look at the outer tie rods, and if the boots are torn, I'd replace those as well.

Here's the video and good luck!

 

[mtbtim]

Unless your Lower Control Arms are rusted out, I wouldn't replace them. The reason why the alignment shop was having difficulty was most likely due to the fact the cam adjusters are rusted in place inside the sleeves of the LCA bushings. With the cam adjusters rusted in place, the alignment tech can't adjust the camber or caster correctly. Rusted cam adjusters are a pretty common problem experienced by 3rd Gen owners, especially in areas where they salt the roads, but it also happens in other areas of the country too.

You'll need a reciprocating saw and some good blades. Diablo Demon Carbide Tipped Blades are suppose to be the shit. They will make cutting out any frozen cam adjusters much easier. In order to free the LCA from the frame, any frozen cam adjuster will need to be cut on both sides of the bushing.

The video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made for this repair covers everything except sawing out frozen cam adjusters. I had to saw out cam adjusters for someone else on another job but we didn't video it.

While you're doing this, if you've never replaced the lower balljoints, I'd replace them because they are a known failure point for our 3rd Gens. I'd also take a look at the outer tie rods, and if the boots are torn, I'd replace those as well.

Here's the video and good luck!

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] made a Part 2 video for this repair due to the fact we know sometimes the cam adjuster sleeves can get rusted into the bushing sleeve and also due to the fact some people have managed to destroy their LCAs using the bottle jack technique.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

 

[3bears]

I was suspecting inner tie rod ends as I have had a recent new kind of vibration on bumps. I also suspected tires out of balance.
Outer tie rods and lower ball joints ( all Toyota) as well as rack bushing, new shocks and springs have less than 40 k on them. Did that all myself
Tire shop said its my lower control arm bushings on driver side ( 186k on rig)
to do both sides and an alignment they want about 500.
I don't have the time to do myself, no shop space where I live/work and would have to wait till I had some time off to do in the summer at my sons farm.
I do have the tools and press at his place.
Frustrating, because I just spent my last vacation ( two weeks ago) doing the timing belt etc.
however after reading this, and watching videos, I might try to tackle myself if they last until june

thanks for the write-ups and videos

 

[brifri01]

I have been dealing with a similar vibration that comes and goes. Mainly in the steering wheel. Thinking high mileage on the bushes causes the issue. Seems worse on warmer days.

 

[Pauleyman]

I read a ton of threads before I started and I have some comments. First post from new owner. I don't think I have OEM lower control arms/bushings because the inner sleeves won't fit the energy suspension bushinigs. Looks like somebody else noticed also. Given the ES bushings are such a pain I like the idea of the whiteline direct replacements also. I did those and it was much easier. I had already burned out the bushings but decided to remove the whole shell for whiteline. I also saw the videos from Tim the toolman and per his own observations I would not use the bottle jack method. I think I tweaked one of my arms. Not bad enough to ruin it but I noticed a slight difference when reinstalling. I had to finesse it more than I should have. I removed SPC camber bolts and replaced with toyota parts. SPC wouldn't hold and caused nasty camber and some death wobble. No thanks. Car drives right and straight now.
One last comment although not related to bushings. I noticed in this thread somebody mentioned welding the steering column. I saw it elsewhere also. If I'm not mistaken the reason there is a tube in a tube is so the steering column collapses in a crash and does not injure the driver. I don't know if I would weld it. Maybe find a different solution to tighten up the fit of the two tubes. Whew, I'm a month into this 99 limited and I've done way more work than I wanted.

 

[Borsalino]

LCA bushing replacement

Hello guys,
I'm going to change lca bushings with oem alternatives from rockauto.
Can someone advice which brand to buy?
Dont want to change with poly bushings, mainly there are Moog, AcDelco, BECK/ARNLEY and Mevotech
:thanks:

 

[APhelps]

Hello guys,
I'm going to change lca bushings with oem alternatives from rockauto.
Can someone advice which brand to buy?
Dont want to change with poly bushings, mainly there are Moog, AcDelco, BECK/ARNLEY and Mevotech
:thanks:

Why are you so against using poly bushings from Whiteline? Plenty of people have experience with them and I highly doubt you'll be able to tell any ride quality difference.

Are you worried about squeaking? I don't think it'll be as bad as what you think either.

 

[BrianSD_42]

If you are not going to go OEM rubber then certainly DON'T go with aftermarket cheap (eg fake non-standard) imitation rubber from Rock Auto, AutoZone or whomever.

Go quality Poly or OEM rubber bushing
.

 

[kolelt]

Hello guys,
I'm going to change lca bushings with oem alternatives from rockauto.
Can someone advice which brand to buy?
Dont want to change with poly bushings, mainly there are Moog, AcDelco, BECK/ARNLEY and Mevotech
:thanks:

Just go OEM. In the end. You’ll be saving money and be safer.

 

[APhelps]

Just go OEM. In the end. You’ll be saving money and be safer.

Whats the price on OEM bushings? Aren't they quite expensive ($50 a bushing?)

 

[bike]

Whats the price on OEM bushings? Aren't they quite expensive ($50 a bushing?)

Probably somewhere around there. Think I was quoted $90 or so canadian each. I got lucky and found some on Kijiji for $120. They replaced my 2 year old Moog ones that were completely destroyed. With the front of the truck lifted I could move my driver tire (and lower arm) in and out almost 3/4 of an inch. Rubber had completely separated from the inner sleeve and most of it was missing. Raised my driver front up like 3/4" back to level. Even given the cost of my time it's cheaper in the long run to go with OEM or a good poly.

 

[Borsalino]

Probably somewhere around there. Think I was quoted $90 or so canadian each. I got lucky and found some on Kijiji for $120. They replaced my 2 year old Moog ones that were completely destroyed. With the front of the truck lifted I could move my driver tire (and lower arm) in and out almost 3/4 of an inch. Rubber had completely separated from the inner sleeve and most of it was missing. Raised my driver front up like 3/4" back to level. Even given the cost of my time it's cheaper in the long run to go with OEM or a good poly.

Thanks for reply.
As you said OEM lasts forever.. currently it has OEM ones at 220K.
Main reason is price at eBay I saw 4 of them at 140$ nearly.