Rocket61
New member
loc should have its own gain control.
Replaced JBL Sub/Added Amp: Install Pics/Info
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
loc should have its own gain control.
mewith4runner
New member
subwoofer
Ark_swamp_rider
I know you posted quite while ago. Though I just found out my subwoofer is blown. You posted:
First up, specs on the stock system. The sub is a 8" JBl with 2 ohm dual voice coils. The amp puts out ~90 watts max, estimated 45 watts rms. The stock sub is ~3" mounting depth.
Second, I chose to replace with JL Audio equipment. I've always heard good things about JL, and after the install I see why, very impressed. I went with a JL 8w1v2 sub (150 watts rms)
Please remember I have no knowledge about any of car subwoofer.
1)You replased 4ohm subwoofer, Is that possible from having 2 ohm product?
2)What is the dual voice coils? Is your JL subwoofer dual voice coil?
3)Can I use original Amp or need to replace?
4) what depth is yhe original subwoofer?
I have no idea what to buy. since your post came along and I thought JL product sounds great.
I have pioneer pioneer avh-x3500bhs installed very recently and found out my subwoofer was blown.
Please let me know what your or someone elses' suggestion. I will not be installing this and will be installed professionally.
Ark_swamp_rider
I know you posted quite while ago. Though I just found out my subwoofer is blown. You posted:
First up, specs on the stock system. The sub is a 8" JBl with 2 ohm dual voice coils. The amp puts out ~90 watts max, estimated 45 watts rms. The stock sub is ~3" mounting depth.
Second, I chose to replace with JL Audio equipment. I've always heard good things about JL, and after the install I see why, very impressed. I went with a JL 8w1v2 sub (150 watts rms)
Please remember I have no knowledge about any of car subwoofer.
1)You replased 4ohm subwoofer, Is that possible from having 2 ohm product?
2)What is the dual voice coils? Is your JL subwoofer dual voice coil?
3)Can I use original Amp or need to replace?
4) what depth is yhe original subwoofer?
I have no idea what to buy. since your post came along and I thought JL product sounds great.
I have pioneer pioneer avh-x3500bhs installed very recently and found out my subwoofer was blown.
Please let me know what your or someone elses' suggestion. I will not be installing this and will be installed professionally.
Last edited:
I just decided to do this mod a couple days ago and have had my 4runner for about a year.
I am really trying to stay on a tight budget and have two amplifiers lying around home that I think could possibly work for the install, but wanted to ask a couple questions first.
AMP #1 -Pioneer prs x320 - i took this out of my explorer when i was running a 10" W6 right before the cash for clunkers program. I know this sub is capable of delivering the wattage and is a decent amplifier for a small project like this. The only problem is that it doesn't have a high level input.
AMP #2 - old MTX thunder 275x. Specs Below. This one does have a High level input and would not need the line out converter.
MS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
150 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.1% Thd+N
Dynamic Power (IHF-202 Std) measured at 14.4 Volts DC
280 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load
Signal to Noise Ratio:
> or = 110dB A-Weighted
Damping Factor:
>200
Frequency Response:
20Hz-20kHz±0.25dB
Thunder EQ:
Variable Bass Boost (0-18dB) centered at 40Hz
Crossover:
Variable 50Hz to 200Hz, 18dB/Octave, High Pass or Low Pass Configurable
That being said, Would it be better to buy the Line-out converter and use the pioneer prs-x320 or just use the MTX 275?. And is there any noticable change in audio quality when using a line-out converter?
The sub that I am using for the install is a Sony XS-GS80L sub(Amazon.com: Sony XS-GS80L 8-Inch GS Series SVC Subwoofer - Set of 1 (Black): Car Electronics) which is rated at 220W RMS. And from what I have read is a pretty good product for the money.
EDIT:
Possible AMP #3 - JL 500/5 with blown speaker channel. As far a I know the subwoofer channel (250W) should be good to rock. Does have an option for a High level Input - however it looks like the input is a RCA input, so my last question would be how would i wire it up in this instance?
I am really trying to stay on a tight budget and have two amplifiers lying around home that I think could possibly work for the install, but wanted to ask a couple questions first.
AMP #1 -Pioneer prs x320 - i took this out of my explorer when i was running a 10" W6 right before the cash for clunkers program. I know this sub is capable of delivering the wattage and is a decent amplifier for a small project like this. The only problem is that it doesn't have a high level input.
AMP #2 - old MTX thunder 275x. Specs Below. This one does have a High level input and would not need the line out converter.
MS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
150 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.1% Thd+N
Dynamic Power (IHF-202 Std) measured at 14.4 Volts DC
280 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load
Signal to Noise Ratio:
> or = 110dB A-Weighted
Damping Factor:
>200
Frequency Response:
20Hz-20kHz±0.25dB
Thunder EQ:
Variable Bass Boost (0-18dB) centered at 40Hz
Crossover:
Variable 50Hz to 200Hz, 18dB/Octave, High Pass or Low Pass Configurable
That being said, Would it be better to buy the Line-out converter and use the pioneer prs-x320 or just use the MTX 275?. And is there any noticable change in audio quality when using a line-out converter?
The sub that I am using for the install is a Sony XS-GS80L sub(Amazon.com: Sony XS-GS80L 8-Inch GS Series SVC Subwoofer - Set of 1 (Black): Car Electronics) which is rated at 220W RMS. And from what I have read is a pretty good product for the money.
EDIT:
Possible AMP #3 - JL 500/5 with blown speaker channel. As far a I know the subwoofer channel (250W) should be good to rock. Does have an option for a High level Input - however it looks like the input is a RCA input, so my last question would be how would i wire it up in this instance?
Last edited:
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I'd use either 1 or 3 since they can push the sub near max RMS power. I'd try #3 first. On my JL, there is a harness that plugs into the amp that does the speaker level input, it has a separate spot and is not plugged into the RCA jacks.
zopperman
Moderator
use a line out converter
Cougar
Member
Subwoofer Repair
I've been reading this link with great interest as my subwoofer has been bad for some time in my 2003 V8 Sport. I came across this website while I was searching for a replacement subwoofer P/N 86150-0W040:
Toyota JBL Speaker Foam Edge Repair Replacement Kit, 86160-AC180, Avalon, FSK-8M-Toyota
Has anyone tried to repair their subwoofer? This looks incredibly easy to do if you dont want to invest alot. I may order it tonight and see if it works. There is a youtube video of the installation/repair.
I've been reading this link with great interest as my subwoofer has been bad for some time in my 2003 V8 Sport. I came across this website while I was searching for a replacement subwoofer P/N 86150-0W040:
Toyota JBL Speaker Foam Edge Repair Replacement Kit, 86160-AC180, Avalon, FSK-8M-Toyota
Has anyone tried to repair their subwoofer? This looks incredibly easy to do if you dont want to invest alot. I may order it tonight and see if it works. There is a youtube video of the installation/repair.
zopperman
Moderator
i remember seeing a guy who siliconed it
This mod has revived my JBL sound system. I am kicking myself for not having done this mod earlier, but i was caught up in the mindset that a 10" sub and a fiberglass enclosure was necessary. Those 8" subs can be pretty surprising.
The only problem I had with this mod was that I had the VSC and VSC OFF lights come on after I had finished installing the amp. I don't exactly know what caused the problem, but it can be fixed using a simple Zero point calibration. I ended up grounding the amp to the bolt underneath the carpet near the center of the seat. Does anyone know if that could also be used as a ground for the Yaw sensor? Just wondering.
The only problem I had with this mod was that I had the VSC and VSC OFF lights come on after I had finished installing the amp. I don't exactly know what caused the problem, but it can be fixed using a simple Zero point calibration. I ended up grounding the amp to the bolt underneath the carpet near the center of the seat. Does anyone know if that could also be used as a ground for the Yaw sensor? Just wondering.
noshortcuts
New member
Question from one more person doing an Arc Swamp inpired install
I'm doing a set up similar to Ark Swamp's on my 06' Limited.
I previously installed the Pioneer deh-80prs head unit but have it feeding the stock JBL amp and speakers at this point. It's working well.
Now I'm upgrading the subwoofer and going with:
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier - 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob
JL Audio 8W1V2-4 - 8" Single 4-Ohm Car Subwoofer
I've got the old sub out and have most of the supplies needed to install the new equipment.
MY QUESTION, should anyone know how to guide me is about the different ways to wire the sub (pre vs. post stock JBL amp, or direct from new head unit)?
1). Tapping the sub wires post amp worked for Ark Swamp and a couple of others but seems weird to send a powered signal to the new amplifier. Still, easy to do.
2). Tapping the sub wires pre amp makes sense but I don't see anyone who did this successfully and can't find which wires to tap to. Anyone know?
3). I wonder if I can use the RCA outs directly from the new head unit? It's confusing because the stock JBL amp is not a normal amp. Anybody know if that would work?
I appreciate any guidance.
I'm doing a set up similar to Ark Swamp's on my 06' Limited.
I previously installed the Pioneer deh-80prs head unit but have it feeding the stock JBL amp and speakers at this point. It's working well.
Now I'm upgrading the subwoofer and going with:
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier - 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob
JL Audio 8W1V2-4 - 8" Single 4-Ohm Car Subwoofer
I've got the old sub out and have most of the supplies needed to install the new equipment.
MY QUESTION, should anyone know how to guide me is about the different ways to wire the sub (pre vs. post stock JBL amp, or direct from new head unit)?
1). Tapping the sub wires post amp worked for Ark Swamp and a couple of others but seems weird to send a powered signal to the new amplifier. Still, easy to do.
2). Tapping the sub wires pre amp makes sense but I don't see anyone who did this successfully and can't find which wires to tap to. Anyone know?
3). I wonder if I can use the RCA outs directly from the new head unit? It's confusing because the stock JBL amp is not a normal amp. Anybody know if that would work?
I appreciate any guidance.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Since you have an aftermarket head unit, without a doubt use the RCA's off the back of it. The only reason to tap factory wiring is if you still have the OEM head unit.
zopperman
Moderator
I said this on the last page, IDK if you saw it, ARK (its in more detail there) I did this and I'm having some issues compared to those who tap speaker level inputs. I compared with a guy who did and his output was pretty ridiculous since it was basically double amped and in retrospect I may have gone this way. Mine sounds awesome on some songs, and sometimes I'm not certain the sub is kicking in. it may be an issue of level adjustment because I feel like I can push more out of the sub, but I have it turned up on the headunit adjustment to +14(out of 15). Who know.
LTDSC
New member
You're using aftermarket amp? You mess with your gain a frequency levels yet on the amp? I had to dial mine in and sounds great.I said this on the last page, IDK if you saw it, ARK (its in more detail there) I did this and I'm having some issues compared to those who tap speaker level inputs. I compared with a guy who did and his output was pretty ridiculous since it was basically double amped and in retrospect I may have gone this way. Mine sounds awesome on some songs, and sometimes I'm not certain the sub is kicking in. it may be an issue of level adjustment because I feel like I can push more out of the sub, but I have it turned up on the headunit adjustment to +14(out of 15). Who know.
noshortcuts
New member
Thanks ARK, I'll pull off the dash and go with the RCA's off the headunit. Zopperman, I'll let you know how it turns out and if I discover any clues what's wrong with yours.
zopperman
Moderator
yup, exact same setup as ARK. I have my gain all the way up - the volume of the sub seems to move in sync with the input sensitivity - higher gain higher volume.
this is also with bass boost +12Db (highest)
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Zopperman....I probably read that at some point but wasn't aware of your issue. Something seems odd as I see no reason for yours not to perform. RCA's are a better connection, not to mention most aftermarket head units are a vast improvement over stock. I would expect better performance with that setup.
zopperman
Moderator
Me too :redbrick:
What's so frustrating is that if I play certain really bass heavy songs I hear what it CAN do, but I want a little more bass on the stuff I usually listen to.
