Replacement power steering rack bushings

[TheDurk]

Well I bought a steering rack bush kit over here, and the metal tube running through the larger of the two-part bushes is incorrect.

The bolt which goes through the chassis member, pointing towards the back of the vehicle is Toyota part number 90150-16048 which is to say that it is a 16mm bolt, yet the tube in the kit I purchased has an internal diameter of 15mm.

Does anyone know if different model years had different sized rack bolts, or if this is just a mistake from whoever put the kit together?

Thanks!

HOLY CRAP! Am I the only idiot that didn't know this? The first two digits of the second half of the p/n is the thread size of bolts--and it works for washers and nuts, too! (It does, I've been checking.)

I have been on here and Yotatech since 2006 and I have never seen ANYONE mention this.

Thank you, random Surf owner in Europe.

As they say, you learn something every day.

As to your question, over here, for a long time, only the Wheeler kit had that bushing right. They added it to the bushings sold by Energy Suspensions. My rack uses the same bolt p/n you posted. According to toyodiy, that is the rack bolt for all 4Runners '95-'02 (and Land Cruisers '96-'02)

 

[eurasiaoverland]

What bushing kit did you buy? Many of us are finding out the hard way there's lots of mistakes from the companies selling aftermarket bushing kits.

I hate buying aftermarket stuff. I got it from a company called Milner Offroad in the UK, who are famous for crap service. I never learn!

 

[eurasiaoverland]

HOLY CRAP! Am I the only idiot that didn't know this? The first two digits of the second half of the p/n is the thread size of bolts--and it works for washers and nuts, too! (It does, I've been checking.)

I have been on here and Yotatech since 2006 and I have never seen ANYONE mention this.

Thank you, random Surf owner in Europe.

As they say, you learn something every day.

Glad to share this information

Hours poring over technical diagrams when doing a real nut and bolt rebuild has its rewards!

It can be the first two or the second two digits of the second part of the part number. Works 99% of the time, as you say for washers and nuts too.

 

[AAT4RSC]

Just replaced the bushings in my 01 Limited 2WD. The 2WD made it a TON easier!! I used the Dorman kit part # 905-401. The only modification I had to make was drilling the inside of the smaller diameter sleeve for the vertical bolt in the middle. The kit included 2 sleeves for that bolt, one was way too big and the other was a tad too small. Drilled the inner of the sleeve that was smaller so the bolt would pass through. Took about an hour all together and made a HUGE difference in the way the truck drives. Well worth the $25 in parts and hours work!

 

[Sierra4rnr]

Put in the Wheelers kit today to remedy "clunky" steering when driving over bumps. Did the steering guide replacement first to no avail. After the steering rack bushings were replaced the clunk was gone.

Used a punch and hammer to remove the old bushings and giant channel locks to install the new bushings, after lubing them up.

 

[duckology]

2000 4 runner sloppy front end

So thank you to the forum members. My 2000 4x4 SR5 4 Runner that I purchased new had serious steering problems at about 180k. I followed several guides on here to replace parts in order to diagnose the problem. I will pass on the knowledge I gained from this experience. I will list the fixes that made the most difference in order.

1.Welded the slip joint - immediate improvement in slop in wheel had about 1/4 inch of free movement prior to spot welds. Easy fix - took to a muffler shop and for 10 bucks my 4 runner no longer drives like a 1960's truck.

2.Rack guide bushing and spring replacement - removed all slop in the drivers side wheel when held and rocked in the 3 oclock and 9 oclock position. Major immediate improvement. The roller bearing in the old guide had noticeable play up and down when removed. The dealership told me I needed a new steering rack. I did not, the bushing solved all of the play in the wheel and resolved premature inner tire wire on the drivers side.

3. New billsteins all the way around - stopped body roll and made speed bumps a joy again. I used the no spring compressor method and with a good hydraulic floor jack that can lower your vehicle slowly, it was no problem. Using the bottle jack in the upper fender well in addition to a ball joint puller on the bottom got the new shock to line up with one person. Hint use a large guide such as a phillips to get the hole lined up from the left side then push the bolt through from the cv joint side. This was an all stock replacement using existing springs. No lift. The upper rear shock towers are a bit of a PITA but doable with some sore hands from the awkward position required a flex ratcheting wrench and allen wrench are advisable and will reduce overall profanity levels.

4. Sway bar and steering rack poly bushings - minor improvement in handling - If I had to do it all over again I would do this last. It can be a PITA for the performance gain.

5. New lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends - no noticeable difference - although I do not off road anymore in my old age and figured it was advisable after all the horror stories on here. The OEM lowers were fine at 180k mostly highway miles, very little offroad, couple of times in the snow and a couple of muddy hill climbs.

She handles almost like brand new, still a few squeaks from body bushings that need to be replaced but handles like it did day one. The lesson is if you think you need a new steering rack, check the passenger side wheel for play and the driver side. If the driver side has the play at 3/9 do the guide bushing and save yourself a grand.

 

[stever1000]

I just took my 2000 limited to the shop to get checked out. Suspension and steering were all tight, but when I go over bumps, the steering wheel shakes in my hands

Additionally, when I backup in reverse with the wheel turned near max, I hear a clunk sound

I'm not sure if the shop looked at the steering rack bushings because I read this after I got home.

Does this sound consistent with other peoples experience? When my gf is home Tuesday I will crawl under and check the bushings too

 

[vwtech]

Just bought m 98 4runner earlier this week. Has the typical bushing wear, and worn out feel over bumps. Ordered the poly bushing kits from wheelers for both the rack, and sway bar kits. Plan, on doing small lift in the near future, and will address the rest of the stuff that usually wears out at that time.

 

[Rock_Rat]

I just took my 2000 limited to the shop to get checked out. Suspension and steering were all tight, but when I go over bumps, the steering wheel shakes in my hands

Additionally, when I backup in reverse with the wheel turned near max, I hear a clunk sound

I'm not sure if the shop looked at the steering rack bushings because I read this after I got home.

Does this sound consistent with other peoples experience? When my gf is home Tuesday I will crawl under and check the bushings too

A worn inner tie rod does exactly what you just described.

 

[stever1000]

A worn inner tie rod does exactly what you just described.

That's frustrating because I took it to a shop and they said everything was tight.
:shocked:

 

[Mudeprived]

Got a question regarding the aftermarket rack bushing kits. Wheelers has a kit that includes 3 sleeves while most of the other aftermarket poly kits include two. What is that third one for?

 

[vwtech]

Got a question regarding the aftermarket rack bushing kits. Wheelers has a kit that includes 3 sleeves while most of the other aftermarket poly kits include two. What is that third one for?

They include an extra sleeve for a different size bolt according to the instructions that came with my kit (just installed mine earlier this week.) Apparently there are a couple different bolt thicknesses that can come from the factory. You just match the correct one from the kit to your bolt and you are good!

 

[Mudeprived]

They include an extra sleeve for a different size bolt according to the instructions that came with my kit (just installed mine earlier this week.) Apparently there are a couple different bolt thicknesses that can come from the factory. You just match the correct one from the kit to your bolt and you are good!

Awesome, thanks!

Ordering it now. I replaced my rack guide cuz it had so much slop in it and suddenly my bushings go out.

I really should just buy a new Toyota rack but I got other things I need $$ for right now.

 

[GOUGER]

This might help



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lSj8WMKfEs

 

[stever1000]

Any tips on how to torque the middle bolt to spec? I can only get a stubby ratchet in that area, my torque wrench won't fit. I was able to get it as tight as my arms could pull.

 

[atalarico]

I just ordered the Energy kit from Amazon so I'll be doing this on Saturday. I've been getting sick of the really squirrely road manners lately, and for $30 and a couple frustrating hours, it's worth a shot. I have literally replaced everything else except maybe my UCAs.

I noticed in the write up here 02 Steering Rack Bushing Replacment

that he has his wheels turned to the left. There isn't anything mentioned that I've seen saying if one direction, or straight, is better for the orientation before you lock up your wheel, but any thoughts?

Also, do you tie up the driver's or passenger's side of the rack? I'm just going to use some 3mm cord to do that.

Can't wait!

 

[atalarico]

Holy crap sticks, I cannot get the sleeve for the middle bushing in for the life of me. Any tips or tricks? I rented a balljoint press kit, but it's getting me nowhere because it will just press that bushing in sideways. I have the right Energy Suspension kit, right? "8.10101G"

Getting the old bushings took a ton of effort, but yeah, getting this middle one's sleeve in is the crux.

Also, the sleeve itself is about a mm or two wider than the bolt too. Is that OK that there's play there?

 

[kolelt]

I bought brand new OEM steering rack. I replaced the OEM bushing after 2 weeks. They have way to much play for 33" tires. I recommend if you get a new rack. Swap the bushing right away.

 

[atalarico]

Happy to report that I finished the job up this morning. I was able to get the center sleeve in using the balljoint press, but I had to use one of the little round plate guides that comes with the press to help keep the sleeve straight upon insertion (yup). Oh, and I checked the sleeve diameter of the OEM bushing and found that the bolt doesn't sit completely against the sides, so I figured the larger of the two sleeves was just fine.

Now to get a new sway bar bracket since I snapped one of the bolts off inside of it. Whoooops.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Glad you got it all finished up! I had my bushings/sleeves in the freezer for a couple weeks before I did the job, and it was still a struggle to get it in(yup). But it was a 100* day, and I didn't use any grease whatsoever. I'm not sure if having them in the freezer even helped at all. When I did my Whiteline LCA bushings, they damn near fell all the way into place after having them in the freezer!