Replacement Rear Axle Housing

I agree it sounds like a bad idea. But wouldn't the magnet on the drain plug catch the little bits? According to this reviewer at the Barnes 4WD site they did it with the gears in. But I agree, I'll find someone who can take out the third member and weld it from both outside and inside, then clean it up nice. I see comments on this forum about how easy it is to take out the third member, how it takes 20 minutes! Not from the steps I've seen! It would take me days to do it! I don't know, maybe it's easy and fast for a mechanic in a shop who knows what to do.

"We used this heavy duty diff cover (Part # B4WK1012) as a method to repair the Toyota factory welded-in-place diff cover that had rusted through on our 2000 4Runner (3rd generation). The rust through from northeast road salt had resulted in diff gear oil leaking through the steel cover in several spots. Technicians at Barnes helped us by confirming dimensions of this part so we could be sure it would fit on a 3rd gen 4Runner axle. A local welding shop, Govel Welding in Albany NY, performed the installation work. With out removing the axle assembly from the truck, without even removing the axle shafts or the diff gears, Govel cut off the old rusted cover, cleaned out any resulting debris, and welded on the new Barnes cover. A very cost effective fix compared to an axle housing replacement, and completely successful! We are very satisfied"


No, the magnet wouldn't come close to catching all of it.

Yes, you could cut it with the 3rd installed....but why? It's so easy to pull that it makes no sense to do it that way, especially since you're subjecting the bearings to the kind of stuff that will destroy them.

Yes, one can attempt to clean it up afterwards with brake cleaner and compressed air, but why risk it? This mod is supposedly to protect the rear axle from damage and the process to install it (if done with the gears installed) increases the likelihood of premature bearing failure/wear. It's counter intuitive.
 
I would personally always remove the 3rd member before cutting and welding a new cover on. Gear oil is so sticky that it would be hard to completely clean out all of the debris caused by the repair (especially with the member still in there). Can it be done without causing any problems? Sure, but I wouldn't take the chance. All it takes is a little bit of missed debris and your rear end will be ruined. Why risk it when it only takes a half hour to take it out?

Just take the time to remove the 3rd member (doesn't take long at all) and do it right.

Not only that, but good welds are all about prep. Clean, OIL FREE metal welds better with less weld contamination. Better to pull the 3rd, drain it, wirewheel or sand all the paint off surfaces to be welded until down to bare, shiny metal, brake clean it, dry it off with compressed air and then weld on the new cover.

You can do it half-ass or you can do it right. Shops will generally do whatever is fastest b/c time is money and most are on book rate.

Oh, one other thing.....whoever does the welding should be sure to stitch it on in small, opposing spurts. Toyota housings warp pretty easily when you weld to them.
 
Not only that, but good welds are all about prep. Clean, OIL FREE metal welds better with less weld contamination. Better to pull the 3rd, drain it, wirewheel or sand all the paint off surfaces to be welded until down to bare, shiny metal, brake clean it, dry it off with compressed air and then weld on the new cover.

You can do it half-ass or you can do it right. Shops will generally do whatever is fastest b/c time is money and most are on book rate.

Oh, one other thing.....whoever does the welding should be sure to stitch it on in small, opposing spurts. Toyota housings warp pretty easily when you weld to them.

Thanks for the tip. Yeah that's something I have learned all about, I am working on a pipeline project and each section of pipe gets welded to the next so those are big issues. I have been wanting to get a welding machine for a while now, maybe this is a good reason to do it. I don't know if it's a good idea for the first weld project to be this housing but you have to start somewhere, I don't see it being super delicate, you just have to make sure you get nice welds inside and out that don't leak or warp the housing. I assume it's just MIG with no special requirements. I've done a (very) small amount of TIG for bike frames.

I am a quality inspector for my job so now I have need to observe the work being done... not sure how I'd feel just trusting the mechanic to do it right the way I request. If I do it I'll know it's done right. Plus then I can take as much time as I need to get the 3rd member out, if it's all sitting in the driveway.
 
Thanks for the tip. Yeah that's something I have learned all about, I am working on a pipeline project and each section of pipe gets welded to the next so those are big issues. I have been wanting to get a welding machine for a while now, maybe this is a good reason to do it. I don't know if it's a good idea for the first weld project to be this housing but you have to start somewhere, I don't see it being super delicate, you just have to make sure you get nice welds inside and out that don't leak or warp the housing. I assume it's just MIG with no special requirements. I've done a (very) small amount of TIG for bike frames.

I am a quality inspector for my job so now I have need to observe the work being done... not sure how I'd feel just trusting the mechanic to do it right the way I request. If I do it I'll know it's done right. Plus then I can take as much time as I need to get the 3rd member out, if it's all sitting in the driveway.

You'll need a decent sized MIG with solid wire gas shielding capacity if you want the best weld you can get. I'd recommend Miller....but there are plenty of other machines out there that work, I've just had Millers for 17+ years and they've never let me down.

Millermatic 211 MIG Welder With Advanced Auto-Set 907614


This is the newest version of the Miller 211. I have the previous generation. The price is $1100...but there's up to a $300 rebate currently with Miller's Build with Blue promotion....though the automatic rebate is $100. Shop around on price. Cyberweld isn't always the cheapest.

This will weld all the way up to 3/8". It has "autoset" which I was very skeptical at first, but IT WORKS.....and it works really, really well. Autoset basically takes the guess work out of welder settings. It does the work for you. The only thing is: your travel speed needs to be a little higher. It will weld 1/2" with proper prep.

Nice thing is: it'll do sheetmetal (it has autoset for .023", .030 and .035 wire) too. It's an extremely versatile machine.

It'll also do aluminum with a $200 spool gun attachment (and a bottle of 100% Argon).

It has an adapter plug system that will let you run off 110V or 230V....obviously, if you go over 3/16" thick material, you need 230V....but it's nice if you need to weld up the gate at your parents house and just grab a 10 gauge extension cord and take care of it (though you'll need 20A breaker to plug into...15A won't cut it if the extension cord is long).

I have the previous generation 211. It was a much larger, less portable unit, but the one complaint I have about the newer machine is it only takes the 3 lb spools of wire where the old, larger unit like mine takes the 11 lbers. That is literally 1 of only 2 complaints.

My second complaint is that Miller didn't (as of last year when I checked) make a 1/8" extended shielding nozzle for the gun like they do the big machines. When welding overhead, the spatter falls down on the tip and can cause problems. I rectified the issue by simply not seating the nozzle all the way onto the gun.....welds overhead fine that way.

I have a Miller 250 as well....this machine is so good though, I've all but stopped using the big one and it's a 3rd the price. The smaller gun is nice too for getting into tight spots...though the duty cycle is obviously lower.

Hope this helps.
 
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What do you think of the Miller 214 3-in-1 welder? It can do TIG as well which I want for working on bike frames. Seems to have similar specs for MIG as 211

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/multiprocess/multimatic-215-multiprocess-welder-m30090

It sounds fantastic. Since it's new though....I have no idea as to how well it functions. Keep in mind, you still have to buy the TIG kit and a spool gun for MIG'ing aluminum.

Personally, I wish you hadn't shown me this.....I've been wanting to pick up a TIG for awhile and if the kit isn't ridiculously expensive, this may be the route I take since it seems autoset works with the TIG....which is one of the hardest things about TIG...setting up the machine correctly.
 
I can buy it locally for $1800 Canadian which works out to a little bit more than the deal you link. The TIG kit is $500. Easier to buy it locally especially if something goes wrong and I have a warranty issue, I'll pay a bit more for that convenience.
 
One thing I should mention is that I replaced the breather plug on the diff housing. When I first poked through with the screw driver the oil gushed out because it was under pressure. With JB weld patched on the outside you DO NOT want any positive pressure in there or it will probably contribute to the JB Weld failing, so be sure to replace this breather if you do a JB Weld job.
 
Barnes4WD 4runner differential cover

Go easy on me I am a new user. Finally actually created an account. Up until now I've used this site for info. Now I have a question.

Just replaced my 98 4runner rear differential housing cover with the BARNES4WD cover.

My question is how much gear oil to use with this new cover. It looks like originally it held 2.6 us quarts. I refilled it to this point with 4 quarts, which seems like a lot, but i still can't feel any oil on my finger when checking the level.

I called Barnes and they were understandably hesitant to give me an exact amount but agreed I should feel the oil on my finger when checking the level.

So bottom line has anyone installed one of these and have any idea how much oil it should take. I am just concerned with over filling it and blowing out the axle oil seals.

Thanks.
 
I am planning on swapping out my rear axle as well (will be cheaper to do the whole thing for me). What do I need to check to ensure that my replacement part will match up? I already know that I have 4.10 gears in my 2002 Limited, is there any other critical information that I need to check to make sure that it will all fit?
 
I'm in the JB Weld crowd. If it fails again, or when it fails, I'm going to grind it all back down to shiny and reapply. If for some reason I have to go with a Barnes, I don't feel a need to remove the gearset. Once the cover is ground off, just flush the pumpkin religously with kerosene with a recirculating pump and filter system to get every bit of dust out. The welding process needs to be stitched as previously said to not warp the housing, but it shouldn't be too bad to do. When done, coat it with bedliner or some sort of rust preventative paint.
 

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