Replacing A/C Condenser, How Do I Know if Compressor Needs Replacing?

A

AnotherCO4Runner

Member
When I was replacing the timing belt on my 2001 SR5, and all the other stuff associated, I punctured my condenser. This was 2+ years ago and I am now getting around to replacing it. I have read some posts and have a few questions:

1) I saw a comment in a previous thread, "Just so you know, there is refrigerant oil in the system and if you engage the magnetic clutch relay you will pump this out the hole too which will ruin the compressor so don't turn on the A/C until you get it fixed." How would I know if the oil has leaked out and if I need to also replace the compressor?

2) I have a Kool Vue condenser, new in box. Anyone have experience with these? Should I just buy a Denso?

3) I bought a Denso Receiver/Dryer 478-0500. Anything else I will absolutely need to replace after 2+ years of the A/C system having a hole in it?

I have a friend with the gauges and vacuum, and since he was the actually the person who put the hole in the condenser he is looking to make amends and do most of the work.

Thank you in advance for guidance. This forum has been invaluable and saved me much cash and imparted much wisdom.
 
Register to hide this ad
Once the refrigerant escaped, the compressor will not run so you don't have to worry about it pumping out any more oil if you push the A/C button.
Compressor should be fine.

When you replace the condenser you are supposed to add 1.4-1.7 oz of oil.
When you replace the dryer add .71 oz of oil.

This is for a 2000.
 
As long as the pulley will spin freely and there isn’t oil leaking from it, replace the O rings where the lines attach to the compressor (lube with PAG 46) and maybe even add a little dye. Also consider considering replacing the expansion valve (sits on the evaporator). Then fill and hope for the best.
 
alumarine said:
Once the refrigerant escaped, the compressor will not run so you don't have to worry about it pumping out any more oil if you push the A/C button.
Compressor should be fine.

When you replace the condenser you are supposed to add 1.4-1.7 oz of oil.
When you replace the dryer add .71 oz of oil.

This is for a 2000.
Click to expand...

What type of oil should I use?
 
LittleCaesar said:
As long as the pulley will spin freely and there isn’t oil leaking from it, replace the O rings where the lines attach to the compressor (lube with PAG 46) and maybe even add a little dye. Also consider considering replacing the expansion valve (sits on the evaporator). Then fill and hope for the best.
Click to expand...

Thanks for tip. I will look at getting the expansion valve as well.
 
I've been through the AC woes with my 4Runner. If it were me, I'd throw a new compressor in there for good measure. You wouldn't be happy if your compressor gave out and sent metal shavings into your new condenser.
 
If I was you i'd just replace everything. You're replacing the condenser, drier, and expansion valve. Might as well replace the compressor like mentioned above. At that point all that's left is the evaporator. That way you'll have a whole new A/C system. Up to you if you want to spend that money though. I'll be replacing my entire system here in a week or two once I get all the parts and following this DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited
 
Vacuum Pump, 25 PSI

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the input all around, it has been very helpful. After installation I was using a rental pump and gauges. I could only get it to 25 and not 30 (as seems to be recommended). This same pump/gauge would only hit 25 hooked up to a small wine fridge my buddy decided to fix while I had the rentals.

Should I get a better pump; does it matter?
 
After 14 years of cold, my AC Compressor started to leak. A mechanic at an AC shop put dye in when he recharged with refrigerant and said a week later it is you compressor.

I bought a Denso at Amazon for $200 and he installed it and recharged the system for $200 and I have had good cold at all speeds of the fan for two full years.

Amazon.com: Denso 471-1413 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive

2005 SR5 140,000miles - owned from new. Car is in the Bahamas where it is hot, hot, hot

Nobody rebuilt a car AC compressor. there are too many seals in one to replace, and they would never get it right.
 
Last edited:
AnotherCO4Runner said:
Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the input all around, it has been very helpful. After installation I was using a rental pump and gauges. I could only get it to 25 and not 30 (as seems to be recommended). This same pump/gauge would only hit 25 hooked up to a small wine fridge my buddy decided to fix while I had the rentals.

Should I get a better pump; does it matter?
Click to expand...
I see that your signature says you're in Denver, Colorado. At that elevation 25 inches of mercury vacuum is about as good as you're going to get.
 
When I started to evaluate my AC my plan was to install only what had to be replaced. The system was not leaking at all but it needed a new compressor. In the end I changed tactics and decided I only wanted to do the job once (hopefully) and I replaced all of the components with OEM parts including the low limit switch, the compressor is the most expensive component and most people say if you replace the compressor you must do the condenser and drier as well. Once you have the evaporator out, it and the expansion valve are together labor wise. I also replaced the idler pulley and of course the drive belt. Factory shop manuals outline a different procedure for recharging the system as they have different equipment than just cans of r134a and a vacuum pump. I would recommend draining and measuring the pag-46 oil from the new (mine was a Denso) compressor and then add back into it the total volume of oil for all of the components being replaced as well as a small amount of dye. Two things I want to mention regarding recharging the system, I used a CPS 2-stage pump and it would only pull just over 28 on my gauges (Mastercool) and not 30, I left it on vacuum for almost 2 hours and then disconnected it and waited almost another two hours before starting to recharge after no loss of vacuum at all. What a lot of the videos don't tell you is how long it takes to add all of the refrigerant to the system, many do show the can position, as in don't shake or turn upside down. I used a scale and a sharpie to measure how much I had put in and tried to get it in between the specs. This had been my 1st time doing AC repair and this site and you tube were invaluable in getting it done.
 
Bad Luck said:
I see that your signature says you're in Denver, Colorado. At that elevation 25 inches of mercury vacuum is about as good as you're going to get.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! Was in process of figuring out pressure difference between sea level and Denver, and if that would impact the numbers. Your confirmation has eased the anxiety.
 
Bad Luck said:
I see that your signature says you're in Denver, Colorado. At that elevation 25 inches of mercury vacuum is about as good as you're going to get.
Click to expand...

To take that a little further, the maximum possible vacuum at sea level is 29.92"Hg. At 5000 feet altitude (Denver), that number drops to 24.9. (there is also variation for weather conditions.) So, I'd say you're good.
 
VincentGsrq said:
When I started to evaluate my AC my plan was to install only what had to be replaced. The system was not leaking at all but it needed a new compressor. In the end I changed tactics and decided I only wanted to do the job once (hopefully) and I replaced all of the components with OEM parts including the low limit switch, the compressor is the most expensive component and most people say if you replace the compressor you must do the condenser and drier as well. Once you have the evaporator out, it and the expansion valve are together labor wise. I also replaced the idler pulley and of course the drive belt. Factory shop manuals outline a different procedure for recharging the system as they have different equipment than just cans of r134a and a vacuum pump. I would recommend draining and measuring the pag-46 oil from the new (mine was a Denso) compressor and then add back into it the total volume of oil for all of the components being replaced as well as a small amount of dye. Two things I want to mention regarding recharging the system, I used a CPS 2-stage pump and it would only pull just over 28 on my gauges (Mastercool) and not 30, I left it on vacuum for almost 2 hours and then disconnected it and waited almost another two hours before starting to recharge after no loss of vacuum at all. What a lot of the videos don't tell you is how long it takes to add all of the refrigerant to the system, many do show the can position, as in don't shake or turn upside down. I used a scale and a sharpie to measure how much I had put in and tried to get it in between the specs. This had been my 1st time doing AC repair and this site and you tube were invaluable in getting it done.
Click to expand...

Bad Luck said:
I see that your signature says you're in Denver, Colorado. At that elevation 25 inches of mercury vacuum is about as good as you're going to get.
Click to expand...

I’m having an issue with charging. The low pressure gauge is about 60/65 and holding, the can of refrigerant is not losing weight.

What could be obstructing things?
 
Assuming that you had pulled vacuum on the system, when you initially open the valve to introduce the refrigerant, it should have pulled much of the can in immediately. Usually that's enough to engage the compressor and draw in the rest of the can. You may need to apply 12 volts to the compressor wire in order to engage the clutch and draw in the refrigerant. Make sure you're pulling it in through the low side.
 
Bad Luck said:
Are you charging on the low or high side? Is that the pressure reading with the ac on or off?
Click to expand...

azrex said:
Assuming that you had pulled vacuum on the system, when you initially open the valve to introduce the refrigerant, it should have pulled much of the can in immediately. Usually that's enough to engage the compressor and draw in the rest of the can. You may need to apply 12 volts to the compressor wire in order to engage the clutch and draw in the refrigerant. Make sure you're pulling it in through the low side.
Click to expand...

Charging through low side and ac on. Compressor clutch won’t engage And refrigerant is not being sucked into system.
 
azrex said:
Assuming that you had pulled vacuum on the system, when you initially open the valve to introduce the refrigerant, it should have pulled much of the can in immediately. Usually that's enough to engage the compressor and draw in the rest of the can. You may need to apply 12 volts to the compressor wire in order to engage the clutch and draw in the refrigerant. Make sure you're pulling it in through the low side.
Click to expand...

What is safest way to apply the 12 volts to jump the compressor?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 218 (members: 2, guests: 216)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top