Replacing alternator - 2005 V8

[Flash Runner]

Help with Squeak?

Alright, so I just got done replacing my alternator...... not a fun time, took about 5 hrs. I ended up having to take it out from the top after removing the air intake and fan/shroud. Everything seemed to go fine though, until the very end. Upon starting up my engine I had a loud and constant "squeak" at idle coming from the engine bay. :sad:

So I understand this might have nothing to do with the alternator specifically, but it happened when I finished this job.

Now a squeak I'm assuming would normally have something to do with the tensioner/idler pulley. However my original thought process is that the squeak was caused by the coolant that leaked out over the pulleys when I removed the radiator hose. So stupidly without thinking, I sprayed down the belt with WD-40. Squeak was gone and I thought nothing of it.

Then I went to o'reillys for my core charge, mentioned the squeak and the guy mentioned that WD-40 would eat up the belt.... so I went back and power washed out the engine bay hoping to clear off any WD-40.. alas the squeak came back right away.

Now the Squeak is on idle when startup, then seems to only squeak when I'm on the gas, and shortly after seems to go away entirely once the truck is warmed up. This makes me feel like it's not the tensioner/pulley since it goes away...

so any ideas on how to fix this squeak?

 

[U.G.N.]

Alright, so I just got done replacing my alternator...... not a fun time, took about 5 hrs. I ended up having to take it out from the top after removing the air intake and fan/shroud. Everything seemed to go fine though, until the very end. Upon starting up my engine I had a loud and constant "squeak" at idle coming from the engine bay. :sad:

So I understand this might have nothing to do with the alternator specifically, but it happened when I finished this job.

Now a squeak I'm assuming would normally have something to do with the tensioner/idler pulley. However my original thought process is that the squeak was caused by the coolant that leaked out over the pulleys when I removed the radiator hose. So stupidly without thinking, I sprayed down the belt with WD-40. Squeak was gone and I thought nothing of it.

Then I went to o'reillys for my core charge, mentioned the squeak and the guy mentioned that WD-40 would eat up the belt.... so I went back and power washed out the engine bay hoping to clear off any WD-40.. alas the squeak came back right away.

Now the Squeak is on idle when startup, then seems to only squeak when I'm on the gas, and shortly after seems to go away entirely once the truck is warmed up. This makes me feel like it's not the tensioner/pulley since it goes away...

so any ideas on how to fix this squeak?

I would replace the serpentine belt, there is nothing you could do if it was damaged by WD-40. I have replaced 2 serpentine belts over the last 5 years as even the engine bay cleaner could affect its elasticity/performance. It's possible there is misalignment as well but I would start with a new belt.

 

[Flash Runner]

I would replace the serpentine belt, there is nothing you could do if it was damaged by WD-40. I have replaced 2 serpentine belts over the last 5 years as even the engine bay cleaner could affect its elasticity/performance. It's possible there is misalignment as well but I would start with a new belt.

Damn, I just put this belt on 2 months ago too :redbrick:

Thanks for the response

 

[waypoint]

Damn, I just put this belt on 2 months ago too :redbrick:

Thanks for the response

I'm thinking idler pulley as the source of the noise. Did you rotate each idler pulley and see if they moved smoothly, e.g. not too loose but no unusual resistance and zero sound?

 

[Beer4run]

This thread saved my a$$ last year before I had to drive out of state for work. Definitely watch out for that threaded stud that goes into the block. Your neighbors kids will learn some new words, but it is possible to pull the alternator through the wheel well with the stud stuck to the ALT.

With that being said thank you to the dude that started this thread!

 

[allcaps55]

Not sure if anyone will see this, but I just got done taking out my alternator although it was a bit more of a pain than anticipated. Somehow the 12mm nut was basically welded onto the end of the stud so when I went about loosening that nut I actually took out the entire stud (see pics below) does anyone know where to find the part number for the stud and the nut?

Thanks!

 

[rdruss]

Not sure if anyone will see this, but I just got done taking out my alternator although it was a bit more of a pain than anticipated. Somehow the 12mm nut was basically welded onto the end of the stud so when I went about loosening that nut I actually took out the entire stud (see pics below) does anyone know where to find the part number for the stud and the nut?

Thanks!

Your Toyota dealer.

 

[allcaps55]

Your Toyota dealer.

I've tried that now twice. Once over the phone and they ordered the wrong part and then once in person which they still could not seem to identify the part properly. They kept thinking it was the same stud that's on the water pump which I don't believe it is.

 

[280kT4R]

Easiest alternator replacement possible (removing as little as possible)

2003 V8 - Did not need to remove intake, any coolant lines, wheel, etc as others have said in their write-ups

1. Turn wheels all the way to the right
2. Disconnect negative terminal of battery

-- Disconnecting Alternator wires --

3. Partially remove front right wheel liner and fold it back so it is out of your way
4. Disconnect ground wire 10 mm nut using impact driver + swivel attachment
5. Disconnect main alt power plug by pressing the plastic tab holding it in

-- Removal of Alternator --

6. Remove plastic rad cover using flathead on 10x plastic rivets

7. Unbolt coolant overflow tank 3x 10mm bolts with impact + swivel attachment and move it to drivers side of engine bay with coolant hose still connected

8. Using 14 mm and longish ratchet, relieve tension on serpentine belt by turning tensioner bolt counterclockwise. At a minimum unhook belt from power steering and alternator pulleys and move to drivers side.

9. Using longish ratchet with small extension, remove 2x 14mm bolts and 1x 14mm nut on power steering pump. Bolts located at the 3- and 6-o clock position, nut is on stud at 12 o clock position. All three are accessed by passing the socket thru the spokes in the power steering pulley. Power steering pump DOES NOT need to be taken off stud, just needs enough play so alternator can clear the power steering pulley.

10. Alternator has 2x nuts and 1x bolt securing it in place. Two are accessible from the top, so start by removing the top two using a ratchet with a medium extension. The lower nut is only accessible from below. Remove the skid plate held on by 4x 17mm bolts. Now you can see the final alternator nut from below. I removed this with a ratcheting hand wrench.

11. Alternator is now disconnected from power and ground wires, nuts and bolts are removed, and power steering pump is unbolted but still in place. At this point the alternator will be removed from below, but there is one final item to unbolt: the front sway bar. Before unbolting the sway bar, I wanted to make sure the wheels were straight so there isn't any excess pressure on the sway bar since the wheels are turned. So reconnect the battery, get back in the car, turn the key to the accessory position so the wheel lock is off, but don't turn on the engine. Muscle the wheels back to straight (yes no power steering help with this one). Disconnect battery again, and then go back under the car and remove the 4x 17mm sway bar bolts using the beefiest impact gun you have. With the sway bar free hanging and still underneath the truck, support the power steering pulley with your left hand and with your right hand pull the alternator off its stud. Once the alternator is off the stud, use you left hand to push the coolant lines and oil hoses forward so they are out of the way and the alternator will very easily come out the bottom.

12. Reinstall in reverse.

 

[tony_4r]

I had to replace mine two weeks ago while on a family road trip. Mine is a 2008 V8. My alternator was behaving suspiciously so I had already purchased a spare one about 6 months ago. Luckily I was traveling with it plus the 100 lbs in tools I always take with me. I was a 1,000 miles from home in South Dakota so there I stopped at a gas station and did the job in the parking lot. It took me about 3.5 hours including dropping the truck to the ground by mistake after removing the passenger tire - scary moment!

Not much too add except that I couldn't take it out through the wheel well. I am sure I would have been able to if I lifted the suspension arm, but I was under a lot of pressure and didn't try that hard. I ended up dropping the stabilizer bar which is very fast and there it went through the bottom. In hindsight, removing the stabilizer bar from the beginning would have helped tremendously accessing the bolts. Also, removing the coolant overflow tank helps a lot which I didn't do it until the end. I had to also loosen the steering pump to slide it forward to allow getting the alternator out.

In summary, my tips are:
-Remove front engine/radiator under plate.
-Lower the stabilizer bar: it is quick and opens up a lot of access.
-Remove coolant overflow tank: also quick and opens up access.
-Loosen steering pump and slide forward, but no need to completely remove.

Sure it can be done in many different ways, but when you are on the road you are in survival mode. I was lucky that it was a sunny day with no rain and perfect 55 degrees. The family was not that happy with me that I took the truck in a trip with a "known" suspicious alternator, but glad that it didn't happen at night. Those highways are very lonely late at night.

 

[NCrunner2012]

I had to replace mine two weeks ago while on a family road trip. Mine is a 2008 V8. My alternator was behaving suspiciously so I had already purchased a spare one about 6 months ago. Luckily I was traveling with it plus the 100 lbs in tools I always take with me. I was a 1,000 miles from home in South Dakota so there I stopped at a gas station and did the job in the parking lot. It took me about 3.5 hours including dropping the truck to the ground by mistake after removing the passenger tire - scary moment!

Not much too add except that I couldn't take it out through the wheel well. I am sure I would have been able to if I lifted the suspension arm, but I was under a lot of pressure and didn't try that hard. I ended up dropping the stabilizer bar which is very fast and there it went through the bottom. In hindsight, removing the stabilizer bar from the beginning would have helped tremendously accessing the bolts. Also, removing the coolant overflow tank helps a lot which I didn't do it until the end. I had to also loosen the steering pump to slide it forward to allow getting the alternator out.

In summary, my tips are:
-Remove front engine/radiator under plate.
-Lower the stabilizer bar: it is quick and opens up a lot of access.
-Remove coolant overflow tank: also quick and opens up access.
-Loosen steering pump and slide forward, but no need to completely remove.

Sure it can be done in many different ways, but when you are on the road you are in survival mode. I was lucky that it was a sunny day with no rain and perfect 55 degrees. The family was not that happy with me that I took the truck in a trip with a "known" suspicious alternator, but glad that it didn't happen at night. Those highways are very lonely late at night.

Thanks for the tips. I'm at 270k on the original alternator. I'm thinking the time is coming soon.

 

[tony_4r]

Something new that I can add to this thread is what happens when the alternator fails.
Driving down the road all the sudden the instrument panel looks like a Christmas tree, the speedometer needle went crazy up and down, and the final pointer was when I looked at the voltage in my radar detector (yes, it shows voltage) indicating 17+. I immediately slowed down, turn the fan to high and the lights, which caused the voltage to go down to 13. Every time I will increase the RPMs the voltage will go up to 16-17. I kept going slow to keep the RPMs down with everything on that could suck electrons to keep the voltage down. Once at the gas station in idle, the voltage was down but the battery light was on. That was the final indicator that it was time to get the dirty shirt on, the cardboard box and all the tools out. I checked the wiring and fuses to see if I was lucky, but no. I knew what it was. The alternator was staring at me telling me "I gave you the warning 6 months ago." That warning was a loud bad bearing noise coming from the alternator and the voltage going low below 12 at idle. This happened about 3-4 times over 6 months for about 5-10 minutes and then it will completely go away.
I bought the Denso alternator from Rockauto more than 6 months ago so now I can't return the core which is worth $79. Let me know if anyone knows what I can do with it.

 

[Simsebas]

First of all thx to all the people posting stuff. I am not very car savvy, and did this job today. Took me 5 hours.

1 hour wasted as I tried to remove the power stearing pump, but couldn't get it done.

Removing the sway bar was super easy and I'd recommend doing this instead.

thx to all of you.