Replacing ball joints and outer tie rods - anything else I should hit while I'm there

[jimmyrecluse]

I replaced my steering rack 2 years ago, so the inner tie rods should be good, the boots are perfect at this moment .

The ball joints are not torn but they are pretty greasy and I have no idea if or when they were replaced, I'd rather be safe than having one fall apart while driving

My plan is to use oem outer tie rods but what has your experience been with aftermarket units? I'm thinking an aftermarket grease- able set. Generally when it comes to bearings and movable parts, I stick with OEM but thought I would ask

Since I will need to get the alignment done, I am thinking about replacing the bushings in the upper and lower control arms. Would you go with polyurethane energy suspension parts, or stay with OEM? I don't mind the stiffer ride or increased noise and vibration with the polyurethane. But I would like something that is going to last the longest

 

[mmw0k7o]

How did the steering rack bushings look when you replaced it? What about the sway bar bushings? Say bar links are another item to consider. The upper and lower control arm bushing are a pain to get out. After hitting mine with a torch and then using a bottle jack I was able to get one side out. In the process of trying to get the other side out I bent the control arm. I ended up replacing the upper and lower control arms on both sides. The other item that you may consider are the cam adjuster bolts. Mine were so rusted together that I had to cut them to get the lower control arms free. I just finished a total front suspension rebuild and used Moog parts. I just finished so I can't speak to the long term viability of the Moog parts. They all went together nicely. The only exception was the sway bar link concave washers wouldn't fit, so I used the old ones. I attached a parts list that may help you...

 

[jimmyrecluse]

Awesome input, thank you! I did order 8 new BJ bolts, ill look at my cam bolts - Cali car.

I have a ball joint and bushing press so I hope I can get those out with the presses


Having done the job already, would you have done anything different?
Aftermarket control arms or just buy the oem arms with bushings? I'm thinking about going with the white line bushings

 

[jimmyrecluse]

How did the steering rack bushings look when you replaced it? What about the sway bar bushings? ..

I used energy bushings when I did the steering rack, I need to look at the sway bar set - that crossed my mind also

 

[plcfcng]

Don't for get the brakes obviously, Transmission cooler lines are also worth a look.:shrug:

 

[jimmyrecluse]

Don't for get the brakes obviously, Transmission cooler lines are also worth a look.:shrug:

Definitely things I should look at while down there, I just finished the tundra 231 mm upgrade and installed an all aluminum radiator with new transmission coolant lines.

Good there

Anyone do wheel bearings at the same time? Any reason to?

 

[mmw0k7o]

If I had the job to do over again I would have brought the upper and lower control arms to a local machine shop. There is an old school machine shop here in town that would not have charged much to press the bushings out and in. I was only using an Bernzomatic torch. I don't think it was getting the control arms hot enough. I've read that you need to hit them with an acetylene torch.

The new Moog control arms cost $344. The alternative would have been about $100 for the performance bushing set and around $25-50 in machine shop fees. $200 savings vs. shiny new control arms? Considering the rest of the car is certainly not shiny I would have rather had the $200 bucks.