Replacing CV Axel Difficulty level???

[ovid300]

My front passenger side CV boot is completely torn. Dealer wants $300 for a CV boot replacement but I'll likely have to replace the axel too ($800 factory $325 aftermarket).

I don't have a lot of experience with autos but I'm fairly handy with projects like this. I've done brake pads and fork rebuilds (motorcycle) with out a problem.

Just don't want to get into a project over my head and be stranded in the driveway.

If I just go ahead and buy a new CV axel, how hard is it to replace?

And new CV axels come with boots and grease right?

Thanks! ASAP replies appreciated

 

[NJshadow93]

My front passenger side CV boot is completely torn. Dealer wants $300 for a CV boot replacement but I'll likely have to replace the axel too ($800 factory $325 aftermarket).

I don't have a lot of experience with autos but I'm fairly handy with projects like this. I've done brake pads and fork rebuilds (motorcycle) with out a problem.

Just don't want to get into a project over my head and be stranded in the driveway.

If I just go ahead and buy a new CV axel, how hard is it to replace?

And new CV axels come with boots and grease right?

Thanks! ASAP replies appreciated

They don't look too bad, I've seen many YouTube videos and write ups about it on here which can be found through searching. You can get a fully assembled axle for about $80, at least at Advance Auto by me.

 

[GLP]

I have done this twice now on my 4R. My first time I grappled with the same decision you are trying to make. I read the Haynes manual and decided to go for it on my own (no help from anyone) and did ok. I would say this is easier than doing a timing belt but more difficult than doing brakes. The CV axle should only cost you $50 from Rock Auto - get the Cardone Select new CV axle (no core charge). Here are a few tips if you decide to do it (not the entire procedure).

1) Make sure you have good breaker bar with a 36 mm socket to get the hub nut loose. A 2 or 3 foot cheater bar will help get that done.

2) Use a 3 jaw puller to push the axle through the hub on disassembly.

3) To remove the shaft from the transaxle use a fork style tie rod removal tool. Tap the end of the fork between the shaft and TA and use the wedge effect to get it started. It comes out pretty easy the rest of the way.

4) To get the new axle into the TA use 3 lb deadblow hammer with plastic face so you don't mess up the threads. You are going to have to hit it really hard to get it started. I tried a couple other methods with no success.

5) Replace the tie rod end while you are at it.

6) Some guys say to replace the TA oil seal, I did not. I just didn't want to open a can of worms on something that was not leaking. I have read of guys replacing this when it wasn't leaking and the new one leaked, probably because they didn't put it in right which is what would happen to me.

7) You need a large torque wrench to tighten the hub nut to 217 ft-lbs.

I rented (borrowed with a deposit) all specialty tools from auto parts store.

 

[aha2988]

I have done this twice now on my 4R. My first time I grappled with the same decision you are trying to make. I read the Haynes manual and decided to go for it on my own (no help from anyone) and did ok. I would say this is easier than doing a timing belt but more difficult than doing brakes. The CV axle should only cost you $50 from Rock Auto - get the Cadone Select new CV axle (no core charge). Here are a few tips if you decide to do it (not the entire procedure).

1) Make sure you have good breaker bar with a 36 mm socket to get the hub nut loose. A 2 or 3 foot cheater bar will help get that done.

2) Use a 3 jaw puller to push the axle through the hub on disassembly.

3) To remove the shaft from the transaxle use a fork style tie rod removal tool. Tap the end of the fork between the shaft and TA and use the wedge effect to get it started. It comes out pretty easy the rest of the way.

4) To get the new axle into the TA use 3 lb deadblow hammer with plastic face so you don't mess up the threads. You are going to have to hit it really hard to get it started. I tried a couple other methods with no success.

5) Replace the tie rod end while you are at it.

6) Some guys say to replace the TA oil seal, I did not. I just didn't want to open a can of worms on something that was not leaking. I have read of guys replacing this when it wasn't leaking and the new one leaked, probably because they didn't put it in right which is what would happen to me.

7) You need a large torque wrench to tighten the hub nut to 217 ft-lbs.

I rented (borrowed with a deposit) all specialty tools from auto parts store.

not to bad of pointers, the correct procedure for #3 would be to take a large flat head screw driver or a punch with a flat head to it. There are grooves on the inner half shaft housing that you can place the screwdriver flat end on and hammer on the screw driver to knock out the old axle (prevents damage to the input shaft end of the in bound cv boot. The same method can be used to get it back in the IFS differential. (we don't have transaxles)

when going in and disassembling you'll find two bolt heads just under the lower ball joint, remove these after getting the axle nut off (pop off the black cap to get to the axle nut). the steering spindle will then semi fold up away from the cv axle. you can just barely put the axle nut back on and hammer on that to break any rust or corrosion loose holding hub end of the half shaft in the hub. (normally they slide in and out it isn't press fit assembly)

either way you do it I'd put it on a 4-5 difficulty rating.

 

[Offroader5]

Not sure where you got a $325 aftermarket price, but I'd definitely go with the Cardone Select from Rockauto.com, and they come complete with boots installed. I was going to have a fleet repair shop do mine and found out they would have used the EXACT same Cardone part but wanted to hit me for $150 on each half-shaft.

I ended up doing my own and if I remember right, it was about 2 hours spent on one side, then the other side I was able to cut maybe 20-30 minutes off since I knew what I was doing at that point.

Also, even though you're thinking of doing only the one side, I would do both. With the cost as low as they are, there is no point in doing one side.

 

[txclimber]

I'm also about to start this project. From what I've read cvj seems to be the preferred vendor. Especially if you have a lift. They have longer and stronger boots. Am I correct on this?

 

[S p a r k y]

Go to Advance and get Axles from them, lifetime warranty. when another boots messes up go swap em out. It worked great for me. keep receipt though.

 

[Bushwacka]

Does anyone have a write up with pics on how to change the CV axle on a 4th Gen 4x4. I have to replace both of mine - torn and looks like a gray milkshake.

I found a few of the posts, and videos on YouTube but didnt seem to find a full write up.

 

[fishtizzy]

I'm also about to start this project. From what I've read cvj seems to be the preferred vendor. Especially if you have a lift. They have longer and stronger boots. Am I correct on this?

I just replaced both of mine with help from [MENTION=73242]Desert Fox[/MENTION] - ordered them from CVJ out of Denver and had no issues. They are a little old school in that you don't get a receipt until your axles arrive - no email confirmation. But no big deal. There was a $150 core charge but they were quick about refunding that once they received my cores. All in with shipping from them and back to return cores (I live 1.5hrs away from their shop) it was only about $210.

I would agree that this job is difficult, especially if you're doing it by yourself and you don't have the right tools. A 12pk of beer is a must. Used a slide hammer to get the old assemblies out since we didn't really care about damaging them.
We also replaced the front diff fluid (royal purple) while we had it a part - just made sense because you WILL spill some fluid when you take the axle assembly out. This would also be a great time to replace rotors and pads if you're due, you have to pull them both anyway. Had I thought about it prior, I would have done just that.

***A special shout out to [MENTION=73242]Desert Fox[/MENTION] for helping me. What an outstanding and helpful person. I got a hold of him on the forum, never have met him before, and he invited me to his home and offered up his knowledge and tools for next to nothing (a 12pk and some good company). I wish more people we like this. :thanks:

Here are some pics of the axles -

 

[Offroader5]

This would also be a great time to replace rotors and pads if you're due, you have to pull them both anyway. Had I thought about it prior, I would have done just that.

You don't have to take the rotor,caliper, hub/bearing off to swap out the half shaft. You can simply remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the spindle to the lower control arm. This will allow some movement to swing it off of the stub shaft.

Unless of course you WANT to replace all that stuff while you're at it...but it's not required to do JUST the half shafts.

 

[fishtizzy]

You don't have to take the rotor,caliper, hub/bearing off to swap out the half shaft...

Unless of course you WANT to replace all that stuff while you're at it...but it's not required to do JUST the half shafts.

I guess you're right, although it would have been a bit tricky it seems. I'm glad I did remove the hub/bearing though - gave me a chance to inspect and clean everything off. It was also an invaluable learning experience for me, seeing how everything is put together as I had never been that deep into that part of the truck before

 

[Mikep.]

You don't have to take the rotor,caliper, hub/bearing off to swap out the half shaft. You can simply remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the spindle to the lower control arm. This will allow some movement to swing it off of the stub shaft.

Unless of course you WANT to replace all that stuff while you're at it...but it's not required to do JUST the half shafts.

If those two bolts were removed, would you need an alignment?

 

[zopperman]

If those two bolts were removed, would you need an alignment?

no hes talking about the bolts under the knuckle that hold the LCA to it, not the LCA-frame cam bolts.

 

[Offroader5]

If those two bolts were removed, would you need an alignment?

no hes talking about the bolts under the knuckle that hold the LCA to it, not the LCA-frame cam bolts.

Exactly. No alignment needed. You're not disconnecting anything that won't go right back to the same place once reassembled.

 

[zopperman]

Exactly. No alignment needed. You're not disconnecting anything that won't go right back to the same place once reassembled.

id get one anyway though, i have lifetime at firestone :heh:

 

[Desert Fox]

id get one anyway though, i have lifetime at firestone :heh:

X2 on Firestone Lifetime alignment

Why is it that we often spend a fortune on roof racks and lights but are hesitant to spend money changing oil or getting frequent alignments. It seems like those are the things that save us money in the long run.

 

[Desert Fox]

I just replaced both of mine with help from @Desert Fox - ordered them from CVJ out of Denver and had no issues. They are a little old school in that you don't get a receipt until your axles arrive - no email confirmation. But no big deal. There was a $150 core charge but they were quick about refunding that once they received my cores. All in with shipping from them and back to return cores (I live 1.5hrs away from their shop) it was only about $210.

I would agree that this job is difficult, especially if you're doing it by yourself and you don't have the right tools. A 12pk of beer is a must. Used a slide hammer to get the old assemblies out since we didn't really care about damaging them.
We also replaced the front diff fluid (royal purple) while we had it a part - just made sense because you WILL spill some fluid when you take the axle assembly out. This would also be a great time to replace rotors and pads if you're due, you have to pull them both anyway. Had I thought about it prior, I would have done just that.

***A special shout out to @Desert Fox for helping me. What an outstanding and helpful person. I got a hold of him on the forum, never have met him before, and he invited me to his home and offered up his knowledge and tools for next to nothing (a 12pk and some good company). I wish more people we like this. :thanks:

Here are some pics of the axles -

It was a good day for sure. Thanks for the kind words but don't forget I still plan on doing some work on my shocks. :wink2:

I have decided to replace the springs on the coilovers to give it more lift in the front and maybe the back too. Still in the planning phase but I did buy a good spring compressor. So now I am armed and dangerous.

 

[aha2988]

Also another tip to this endeavor if you'd like to avoid adding oil to the diff or having it spill on you when you pull the inner half shaft housing.

-Instead of jacking up the whole front end just jack up one front corner at a time. This allows the diff fluid to travel to the other end of the IFS housing preventing any fluid from coming out of the housing when the half shaft is pulled.

 

[fishtizzy]

It was a good day for sure. Thanks for the kind words but don't forget I still plan on doing some work on my shocks. :wink2:

I have decided to replace the springs on the coilovers to give it more lift in the front and maybe the back too. Still in the planning phase but I did buy a good spring compressor. So now I am armed and dangerous.

You bet!! Give me a couple weeks notice and I will be there.