Replacing fan clutch

[atalarico]

does that have any depth to it? if not you can just buff it out.

Not really, so that's hopeful! I've been meaning to take it in for paint correction and a ceramic coating since I got it, so this might just hasten that a bit more. I've never owned a new car and I've been learning that new car paint and clear coat is a lot weaker than say a '97 4Runner's! Ah well.

Your Sears in CO must be ultra busy. The ones near me are deserted, you could streak across the parking lot and no one would see you for hours.

Congrats.

Try the local hardware store or one of these locations:
https://www.fastenal.com/locations;jsessionid=3CBEDC0D701372FF4EF7478EF04CD2EF.fcomjvm01

You...don't...even...know. The parking lot was practically empty...and I chose, yes chose, to park next to a tastefully modded Cadillac AT-S. I EVEN SECOND GUESSED IT OUT LOUD TO MYSELF. Something along the lines of "Don't be dumb, there are a ton of empty spaces..."

As you can tell by this thread, I learn lessons on the daily. Anyway, I'm going to go to a couple real hardware stores with wide selections of lose nuts (yup...) and see what I can find. I'm glad to know they aren't super specialized too. Credit to my local Autozone, I learned the threading was m8-1.25 and that it's a hex flange nut all on my own with their little self-help screw/nut station.

glad you got your nuts off. LOL, couldnt resist.

Thanks for making me laugh (no sarcasm). I needed it. Many a nut jokes went back and forth between me and my Dad last night. Male bonding at it's finest.

 

[atalarico]

So in another wtf sigh moment...I'm super happy to learn about Fastenal. However, they only have 13mm head m8-1.25 nuts! W.t.f. I'm still going to check out a couple hardware stores before sucking it up and pay $1-3/ea at the dealership, but, yeah, just thought I'd let you all know in case you need to replace yours in the future.

Oh, also, I want to try to find something with a longer head, but I know the threads were barely poking out on these ones, so maybe I should just stick with the same? Also, I'm guessing I'll want something zinc plated or stainless for corrosion resistance, right?

 

[nevada]

So in another wtf sigh moment...I'm super happy to learn about Fastenal. However, they only have 13mm head m8-1.25 nuts! W.t.f. I'm still going to check out a couple hardware stores before sucking it up and pay $1-3/ea at the dealership, but, yeah, just thought I'd let you all know in case you need to replace yours in the future.

Oh, also, I want to try to find something with a longer head, but I know the threads were barely poking out on these ones, so maybe I should just stick with the same? Also, I'm guessing I'll want something zinc plated or stainless for corrosion resistance, right?

if you need it back together quickly, just go with the 13mm nuts.

ideally, for a very stuck fastener, a 6pt is the way to go. that said, I have removed a ton of those fan nuts over the years, and never once have I NEEDED a 6pt. my point is, those 13mm nuts, with just your standard end wrench for install will be just fine.

I don't think they need any extra protection, the old nuts looked ok.
a bit deeper wouldn't be a bad idea though, you get a bit more purchase on it with the wrench.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Oh, also, I want to try to find something with a longer head, but I know the threads were barely poking out on these ones, so maybe I should just stick with the same? Also, I'm guessing I'll want something zinc plated or stainless for corrosion resistance, right?

And cue someone turning this sentence dirty too. Like 4 opportunities here that I'm not creative enough to utilize.

 

[atalarico]

if you need it back together quickly, just go with the 13mm nuts.

ideally, for a very stuck fastener, a 6pt is the way to go. that said, I have removed a ton of those fan nuts over the years, and never once have I NEEDED a 6pt. my point is, those 13mm nuts, with just your standard end wrench for install will be just fine.

I don't think they need any extra protection, the old nuts looked ok.
a bit deeper wouldn't be a bad idea though, you get a bit more purchase on it with the wrench.

Yeah, I'm also not realizing that I shouldn't have to take these things off again too frequently. Water pump was replaced 2 years ago, and I just did the fan clutch...

I'm telling you, these things were STUCK. I see now that the hex flange nut is intentionally designed to bite in, so I'm guessing the shop over-torqued them when they replaced the water pump. What ended up working for getting them lose was wedging the new and shiny 12pt deep offset box end wrench on a nut to the left from the one I was removing and the 6pt was on the one I would be loosening. Then I crossed my arms so my right was on the box end wrench, and my left was on the 6pt wrench, and busted out a can of whoop ass as I tried to bring the two together (without slipping and slicing my hand open on the fan or anything else). I felt like I was turning green with Hulk strength, but damn if it didn't feel good when it all worked. I'm sure the copious PB Blaster helped too.

I think I'll try to find them locally with a 12mm head, but I won't freak out if I have to make due with 13mm. I think just having the quality tools will help prevent stripping them in the future. I have no idea how I'm going to properly torque them back down, but I'll just make sure they're like half the strength I needed to remove them.

And cue someone turning this sentence dirty too. Like 4 opportunities here that I'm not creative enough to utilize.

Rofl. Yes yes yes, nuts, heads, shafts...

 

[fourfive]

...ideally, for a very stuck fastener, a 6pt is the way to go...

I agree. I generally try to stick with 6pt when possible but most of my ratcheting box end wrenches are 12pt because the 6pt ones I've seen were usually from some off brand & I'd rather go with a good quality brand 12pt ratcheting box end then a lesser quality 6pt.

 

[atalarico]

It's been a slow day at work so I've been researching the 6pt vs 12pt availability thing. I guess the reason 12pt is become more prevalent for hand tools at least is because materials and patterns have gotten a lot better in the past few decades. I can believe that actually, so I'm not going to fight it too hard. I'm going to keep hunting for used pro grade tools like MAC, but I'm not going to fret if I can't find 6pt stuff. Seems like most of the die-hard 6pt'ers are older guys (like my Dad) who were around when early 12pt'ers were crap. So, I get it.

I think the reason I've had crap luck with 12pts is just because the quality of the 12pts I was using. After rounding these bolts off, I'm now a firm believer in quality tools. I'm going to basically chuck this tool set I've been using since high-school into the truck for emergencies as I slowly build out a better garage set.

Eventually I'll figure out all of the possible sizes of wrenches needed for the T4R, and just carry a small satellite set of those in the truck to get rid of the crap ones. My Dad said that I'd be getting his tools when he croaks (his words), but it was also his way of saying "From my cold dead hands"! I don't blame him either!

Oh, and turns out Advanced has the nuts I'm looking for! $3.50 for a set of 4 from Dorman. I keep forgetting to check them out because they've only been open near me for a year or so.

Cheers!

 

[nevada]

I agree. I generally try to stick with 6pt when possible but most of my ratcheting box end wrenches are 12pt because the 6pt ones I've seen were usually from some off brand & I'd rather go with a good quality brand 12pt ratcheting box end then a lesser quality 6pt.

i don't really understand why, but in sockets, 6pt are easy to come by. but in wrenches, 12pt is standard, 6pt is much harder to find. odd.

 

[atalarico]

Done! 12mm head m8x1.25 flanged nuts available at advanced for 3.50 for four.

Last question; I basically had to yard on these as I was tightening them so I could access the next nut. I can tell they're going to be a pain to remove again if I have to for some reason down the road, as I could feel the metal being bitten into.

Soooo, do I remove them real quick before they get settled and put some anti seize on there, or just heave hoe with the right tools next time and they'll probably come off without too much of a fight?

I'm realizing I could have used my pry bar to turn the thing to access the next stud to nut on (PHRASING!).

 

[fourfive]

Last question; I basically had to yard on these as I was tightening them so I could access the next nut. I can tell they're going to be a pain to remove again if I have to for some reason down the road, as I could feel the metal being bitten into.

Soooo, do I remove them real quick before they get settled and put some anti seize on there, or just heave hoe with the right tools next time and they'll probably come off without too much of a fight?

Glad you got it worked out! It seems like it was the combination of letting those nuts soak for a while in penetrating oil and having the right tools that led to your success. I would leave it unless this is a part that people typically use anti seize on or if you had some serious rust issues which that doesnt look to be the case.

I never know when to use anti seize and when it's not advisible. I generally just use it if i see it recommended during certain jobs like on my cam bolts when i replaced my front lca bushings.

 

[atalarico]

Glad you got it worked out! It seems like it was the combination of letting those nuts soak for a while in penetrating oil and having the right tools that led to your success. I would leave it unless this is a part that people typically use anti seize on or if you had some serious rust issues which that doesnt look to be the case.



I never know when to use anti seize and when it's not advisible. I generally just use it if i see it recommended during certain jobs like on my cam bolts when i replaced my front lca bushings.

Thanks! I agree. Little penetrating oil, the right tools, and a whole lot of gritting of teeth, and I could do it again if I had to.

Im in the same boat with anti seize usually! On the other hand, I could imagine it being pretty ugly if the fan clutch worked itself loose, and it does probably vibrate a lot. That might be why the nuts have those teeth to bite into the metal with [emoji869].

Since it's done, and everything is back together, I'll leave it. Someone let me know if should go back around though and loosen them a little.

Cheers all!

 

[atalarico]

Quick update after a 20 minute drive...woah! She's a different car! Quieter, there's more power from the throttle, and the idle is calmer. I had no idea how bad the old clutch was! Can't wait to go off-roading/camping this weekend...because 4Runner!

 

[LittleCaesar]

If it drives well then congrats. Hopefully you learned quite a bit in this thread, with the main point of learning being to always steer clear of Caddys in the Sears parking lot.

 

[atalarico]

If it drives well then congrats. Hopefully you learned quite a bit in this thread, with the main point of learning being to always steer clear of Caddys in the Sears parking lot.

Yeaaaah, pretty much! I'm going to be hunting for some craigslist/ebay used MAC or better wrench sets so I don't have to bother with Sears parking lots again. If I do, I'm taking the 4Runner and double parking like a boss. =p

"Oh, you scratched my paint!? Hardly noticed, but allow me to return the favor!"

(not mine, just pretty much how the paint on mine looks though)

 

[ZionXIX]

So in another wtf sigh moment...I'm super happy to learn about Fastenal. However, they only have 13mm head m8-1.25 nuts! W.t.f. I'm still going to check out a couple hardware stores before sucking it up and pay $1-3/ea at the dealership, but, yeah, just thought I'd let you all know in case you need to replace yours in the future.

Oh, also, I want to try to find something with a longer head, but I know the threads were barely poking out on these ones, so maybe I should just stick with the same? Also, I'm guessing I'll want something zinc plated or stainless for corrosion resistance, right?

Do you happen to know the part number for the Flange nuts? My local hardware store doesn't have any metric stuff in Stock right now. When I go to toyota they wanted a part number and I'm having a difficult time finding it on the toyota parts sites. Also I noticed that 1 of my Bolts is missing, so the clutch has been hanging in to the pulley with only 3 bolt the entire time I've owned it. Any idea how long those M8 bolts are? Or maybe a part number?

Thanks, -z

 

[diverscale]

i don't really understand why, but in sockets, 6pt are easy to come by. but in wrenches, 12pt is standard, 6pt is much harder to find. odd.

Yeah, I've never came around to get 6 points wrench, since every single hardware stores accessible here only have 12 points. I never had problem with 12 points but I know that one day I'll need it and not have it.

 

[ZionXIX]

Do you happen to know the part number for the Flange nuts? My local hardware store doesn't have any metric stuff in Stock right now. When I go to toyota they wanted a part number and I'm having a difficult time finding it on the toyota parts sites. Also I noticed that 1 of my Bolts is missing, so the clutch has been hanging in to the pulley with only 3 bolt the entire time I've owned it. Any idea how long those M8 bolts are? Or maybe a part number?

Thanks, -z

Ok, I answered part of my own question by looking at a better site. The Hex flange nuts are part number: 9017908123. They show up as Front wiper arm setting nut. However I am unsure what length of bolt to get for the fan clutch and pulley. I know it's an M8x1.25, but how long do they have to be? Are they just regular Hex head bolts?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[pauldub]

It's not a bolt, it's a stud. That means it's threaded on both ends. I can't find the p/n either, but you can unscrew one of the others to see how long it is. Don't mangle it when taking it out, put two nuts on back to back and tighten them to each other and then you can use one of the them to turn the stud out.

 

[pauldub]

If your stealer can't figure out what the part number is, you should be able to get a stud from a good auto parts store. Try a NAPA store. Worst case, you can get some metric all-thread and just make your own. Fastenal will have the all-thread and they might even have metric studs.

 

[pauldub]

If you're really on St. Kitts, finding parts may not be so easy.