Replacing front speakers, tweeters too?

[DWilliam]

Getting ready to order some new front door speakers, should I get components, or tweeters seperate, or leave the tweeters alone and just pick out some 6 1/2” speakers and be done with it? Just looking for improved sound quality, not an audiophile.

 

[prybar]

Not sure if this helps, but a lot of manufacturers include tweeters with door speakers. Crutchfield is a good source for car stereo equipment.

 

[DWilliam]

Not sure if this helps, but a lot of manufacturers include tweeters with door speakers. Crutchfield is a good source for car stereo equipment.

They do, but I wasn’t sure if it was worth the extra hassle to replace the tweeters or just get coaxials.

 

[Auce]

Getting ready to order some new front door speakers, should I get components, or tweeters seperate, or leave the tweeters alone and just pick out some 6 1/2” speakers and be done with it? Just looking for improved sound quality, not an audiophile.

Componenets in the front and coaxial in the rear. I just did mine. Most if not all components sets come with tweters, almost none fit directly in our third gens so you'll need to modify it some. Don't keep your cheap paper cone tweeters if you're putting new speakers in. Crutchfield will show you the dimensions of the speakers and tweeters. My JBL's were almost a perfect fit to stock, that's why I went with them.

Might as well put new speakers in the rear, it's a much easier install. You'll need a speaker bracket and use some silicone to help with sound deadening. I screwed my rears into the bracket and right into the door frame. I'm an audio noob at best, but I was sick of 20 year old blown out speakers.

All Car Speakers at Crutchfield[rank5]2-way%20Component%20System&nvpair=FFDesign|[rank6]3-way%20Component%20System

IMG-6109 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
IMG-6110 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
IMG-6112 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
IMG-6117 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
https://ibb.co/kXy9C8q
https://ibb.co/TB5jdMV

 

[T4topher]

Componenets in the front and coaxial in the rear. I just did mine. Most if not all components sets come with tweters, almost none fit directly in our third gens so you'll need to modify it some. Don't keep your cheap paper cone tweeters if you're putting new speakers in. Crutchfield will show you the dimensions of the speakers and tweeters. My JBL's were almost a perfect fit to stock, that's why I went with them.

Might as well put new speakers in the rear, it's a much easier install. You'll need a speaker bracket and use some silicone to help with sound deadening. I screwed my rears into the bracket and right into the door frame. I'm an audio noob at best, but I was sick of 20 year old blown out speakers.

All Car Speakers at Crutchfield[rank5]2-way%20Component%20System&nvpair=FFDesign|[rank6]3-way%20Component%20System

IMG-6109 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
IMG-6110 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
IMG-6112 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
IMG-6117 hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
https://ibb.co/kXy9C8q
https://ibb.co/TB5jdMV

This^ component upfront and coaxial in the rear, the component speakers sound significantly better than coaxial IMO.

You’ll notice the difference as the location/position of the tweeter makes a lot of difference. On a coaxial speaker the tweeter is on the speaker and way too low, on the component speaker generally the tweeter is mounted at the top of the door to be closer to your ear level. I used the bracket that was attached to the OEM tweeters and somehow double sticky foam taped them. Can’t remember. You’ll want to purchase the adapters for aftermarket speakers for our trucks, they have front and rear adapters.

Here’s the rears:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2520013350...MfzNrLbTpa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here’s the fronts:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2535980184...MfzNrLbTpa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Auce]

This^ component upfront and coaxial in the rear, the component speakers sound significantly better than coaxial IMO.

You’ll notice the difference as the location/position of the tweeter makes a lot of difference. On a coaxial speaker the tweeter is on the speaker and way too low, on the component speaker generally the tweeter is mounted at the top of the door to be closer to your ear level. I used the bracket that was attached to the OEM tweeters and somehow double sticky foam taped them. Can’t remember. You’ll want to purchase the adapters for aftermarket speakers for our trucks, they have front and rear adapters.

Here’s the rears:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner 5 .25" 5.25" Rear Speaker Adapter Spacer SAK039_475 | eBay

Here’s the fronts:
Toyota 1996-2002 4Runner 6 1/2" 6.5" Front Door Speaker Adapter – SAK121_55 | eBay

T4 is also right, I got both brackets he mentioned, also like T4 said, our fronts are way to low to not use tweeters.

 

[Auce]

This^ component upfront and coaxial in the rear, the component speakers sound significantly better than coaxial IMO.

You’ll notice the difference as the location/position of the tweeter makes a lot of difference. On a coaxial speaker the tweeter is on the speaker and way too low, on the component speaker generally the tweeter is mounted at the top of the door to be closer to your ear level. I used the bracket that was attached to the OEM tweeters and somehow double sticky foam taped them. Can’t remember. You’ll want to purchase the adapters for aftermarket speakers for our trucks, they have front and rear adapters.

Here’s the rears:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner 5 .25" 5.25" Rear Speaker Adapter Spacer SAK039_475 | eBay

Here’s the fronts:
Toyota 1996-2002 4Runner 6 1/2" 6.5" Front Door Speaker Adapter – SAK121_55 | eBay

I'll probably wind up needed an amp though, my receiver only puts out 22 watts rms. My components are 85 watt rms, rear are 75 watt rms, so my receiver is only supplying 1/4 of the power the speakers need for that extra punch.

 

[DWilliam]

This^ component upfront and coaxial in the rear, the component speakers sound significantly better than coaxial IMO.

You’ll notice the difference as the location/position of the tweeter makes a lot of difference. On a coaxial speaker the tweeter is on the speaker and way too low, on the component speaker generally the tweeter is mounted at the top of the door to be closer to your ear level. I used the bracket that was attached to the OEM tweeters and somehow double sticky foam taped them. Can’t remember. You’ll want to purchase the adapters for aftermarket speakers for our trucks, they have front and rear adapters.

Here’s the rears:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner 5 .25" 5.25" Rear Speaker Adapter Spacer SAK039_475 | eBay

Here’s the fronts:
Toyota 1996-2002 4Runner 6 1/2" 6.5" Front Door Speaker Adapter – SAK121_55 | eBay

I thought 6 1/2” would fit without an adapter?

 

[T4topher]

I thought 6 1/2” would fit without an adapter?

5” for the rear and 6.5” for the fronts. They fit no problem but the screw/bolt holes never line up with the original factory holes hence needing these adapters. You could do some super funky setup cutting up the factory mount to make it work but much cleaner/easier/faster to buy these brackets.

 

[DWilliam]

5” for the rear and 6.5” for the fronts. They fit no problem but the screw/bolt holes never line up with the original factory holes hence needing these adapters. You could do some super funky setup cutting up the factory mount to make it work but much cleaner/easier/faster to buy these brackets.

Thanks! I’m eyeing some JBL GTO component to go with my new head unit which I still can’t decide on. Either Sony XAV-ax1000 or Boss BE62cp, both have car play and a physical volume knob.

 

[Auce]

I thought 6 1/2” would fit without an adapter?

It will, I didn't ned one. You may need to find a place to mount your crossovers though.

 

[Auce]

5” for the rear and 6.5” for the fronts. They fit no problem but the screw/bolt holes never line up with the original factory holes hence needing these adapters. You could do some super funky setup cutting up the factory mount to make it work but much cleaner/easier/faster to buy these brackets.

T4 the rears are actually 4" stock. I originally thought they were 5.25. Anything bigger than 4" will need a bracket. I'd get a bracket anyway just to make the mounting easier and cleaner.

 

[Auce]

Thanks! I’m eyeing some JBL GTO component to go with my new head unit which I still can’t decide on. Either Sony XAV-ax1000 or Boss BE62cp, both have car play and a physical volume knob.

D, the XAV's i love. I have the 150. Be mindful (which I wasn't) the 1000 won't have enough power to really make the JBL's pop. The Sony will average 20 watts rms, the GTO's will be at 75 rms. So you're only really getting 1/4 of the power you need before it becomes distorted.

 

[DWilliam]

D, the XAV's i love. I have the 150. Be mindful (which I wasn't) the 1000 won't have enough power to really make the JBL's pop. The Sony will average 20 watts rms, the GTO's will be at 75 rms. So you're only really getting 1/4 of the power you need before it becomes distorted.

Would you recommend an amp? I was trying to avoid it, but I might add one in while I’m at it..

 

[Auce]

Would you recommend an amp? I was trying to avoid it, but I might add one in while I’m at it..

Yes. You and I both are going to need one eventually. I was trying to avoid it myself, being an audio noob I didn't realize the new speakers (good ones we purchased, you and I). Need that extra power. I really dont'a have one to reccomend. I'm hoping someone in here will chime in. Just that our amp will need to be 4 channel and handle up to 75 watt rms.

 

[DWilliam]

Yes. You and I both are going to need one eventually. I was trying to avoid it myself, being an audio noob I didn't realize the new speakers (good ones we purchased, you and I). Need that extra power. I really dont'a have one to reccomend. I'm hoping someone in here will chime in. Just that our amp will need to be 4 channel and handle up to 75 watt rms.

I’m probably going to have my local audio shop install everything at once, I’ll see what they say about a small amp. I don’t need any subwoofers, I just like good sound quality.

 

[Auce]

I’m probably going to have my local audio shop install everything at once, I’ll see what they say about a small amp. I don’t need any subwoofers, I just like good sound quality.

D, if you don't mind can you relay here what they suggested?

 

[Ripper238]

Getting ready to order some new front door speakers, should I get components, or tweeters seperate, or leave the tweeters alone and just pick out some 6 1/2” speakers and be done with it? Just looking for improved sound quality, not an audiophile.

Definitely do components with separate tweeter, will sound so much better. However you will likely want/need to do an amp to make it right and that's where you should also replace your head unit too.

It can be a big rabbet hole. I upgraded and now I have a beautiful sounding system but I replaced everything (Head unit, Amp, speakers. Didn't need a sub.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'll probably wind up needed an amp though, my receiver only puts out 22 watts rms. My components are 85 watt rms, rear are 75 watt rms, so my receiver is only supplying 1/4 of the power the speakers need for that extra punch.

Yes, yes yes! Without an amp, the speakers will not sound much better than if you re-ordered Toyota paper cone speakers. There is no substitute for a good amp, not even expensive speakers. If you'd like some ideas, I documented my audio install years ago including how I mounted the tweeters. Many say fitting the speakers are the hard part but I found the tweeters to be an ever tighter fit. The old Toyota tweeters are very tiny.

Thinking About Upgrading Your Sound System? Do It! - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

T4 the rears are actually 4" stock. I originally thought they were 5.25. Anything bigger than 4" will need a bracket. I'd get a bracket anyway just to make the mounting easier and cleaner.

Yes on the bracket. I ended up making my own out of MDF board but then again I did put 6 1/2" speakers in the rear for my passengers' delight. To fit a 6 1/2" in the rear though you have to trim the door panel and a slight amount of the storage pocket.

Would you recommend an amp? I was trying to avoid it, but I might add one in while I’m at it..

Yes. You and I both are going to need one eventually. I was trying to avoid it myself, being an audio noob I didn't realize the new speakers (good ones we purchased, you and I). Need that extra power. I really dont'a have one to reccomend. I'm hoping someone in here will chime in. Just that our amp will need to be 4 channel and handle up to 75 watt rms.

Yes yes yes! Your new speakers are literally screaming to be powered by an amp. No head unit has any decent amount of power it can put out. 15W RMS, 20W RMS, 22W RMS, all not nearly enough and you won't notice any difference then the stock head unit. I highly recommend small 4 channel amp that produces 50-75W RMS. Here are a few examples:

Sound Ordnance™ M75-4 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

Kenwood KAC-M3004 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

If you have your head unit already, look into seeing if they also sell an inline amplifier like I purchases for my Alpine. It requires no wiring at all. That was the part I was dreading when I bought mine years ago so it was the perfect solution. Since then I've done other audio installs that required wiring and while it is a bit of work it's nothing impossible. The inline amplifiers tend to cost more but you save money by not needing an amp install kit and you save lots of time!

You really cannot go wrong with any amp that puts out over 50W RMS. The biggest restriction is size as that will dictate where it can be installed. Mine is actually sitting behind the center console tucked in behind the storage pocket.

One more edit: It is a rabbit hole. After you've bought a head unit for lets say, $250, an amp for $200, speakers for $300 more, brackets and wiring kits for another $100 you've now gone $850 deep. A small powered 10" sub or a compact powered 8" sub will run about $300 more. I really like the small 10" sub though as it adds so much depth to your music but it really does depend on what kind of music. I listen to mostly electronic and dubsteb so a sub is kinda a no-brainer. If you listen to mostly vocal, pop or instrumental types of music then a sub may not make a significant difference.

 

[Auce]

Yes, yes yes! Without an amp, the speakers will not sound much better than if you re-ordered Toyota paper cone speakers. There is no substitute for a good amp, not even expensive speakers. If you'd like some ideas, I documented my audio install years ago including how I mounted the tweeters. Many say fitting the speakers are the hard part but I found the tweeters to be an ever tighter fit. The old Toyota tweeters are very tiny.

Thinking About Upgrading Your Sound System? Do It! - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum



Yes on the bracket. I ended up making my own out of MDF board but then again I did put 6 1/2" speakers in the rear for my passengers' delight. To fit a 6 1/2" in the rear though you have to trim the door panel and a slight amount of the storage pocket.





Yes yes yes! Your new speakers are literally screaming to be powered by an amp. No head unit has any decent amount of power it can put out. 15W RMS, 20W RMS, 22W RMS, all not nearly enough and you won't notice any difference then the stock head unit. I highly recommend small 4 channel amp that produces 50-75W RMS. Here are a few examples:

Sound Ordnance™ M75-4 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

Kenwood KAC-M3004 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

If you have your head unit already, look into seeing if they also sell an inline amplifier like I purchases for my Alpine. It requires no wiring at all. That was the part I was dreading when I bought mine years ago so it was the perfect solution. Since then I've done other audio installs that required wiring and while it is a bit of work it's nothing impossible. The inline amplifiers tend to cost more but you save money by not needing an amp install kit and you save lots of time!

You really cannot go wrong with any amp that puts out over 50W RMS. The biggest restriction is size as that will dictate where it can be installed. Mine is actually sitting behind the center console tucked in behind the storage pocket.

One more edit: It is a rabbit hole. After you've bought a head unit for lets say, $250, an amp for $200, speakers for $300 more, brackets and wiring kits for another $100 you've now gone $850 deep. A small powered 10" sub or a compact powered 8" sub will run about $300 more. I really like the small 10" sub though as it adds so much depth to your music but it really does depend on what kind of music. I listen to mostly electronic and dubsteb so a sub is kinda a no-brainer. If you listen to mostly vocal, pop or instrumental types of music then a sub may not make a significant difference.

I wish we could sticky this!

gamefreakgc, I'm going to DM you once i get close to making any purchases to complete the system.