Replacing front speakers, tweeters too?

I put a. Scion T1819 stereo in my 4Runner and Saturn. It’s rated at 300w with a center channel. It rocks for what I like to listen too.

It rocks with the Sony and MTX speakers. The Saturn has 4 6 1/2” Sony’s and it sounded much better because of the smaller cabin compared to the 4Runner with 6 1/2” and 5 1/4” speakers.


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Someone is selling a Scion T1819 on eBay for less than $50 shipped!


Look at my build and repair thread. It requires some Toyota adapter cables to go from old to new wiring and modifying the stereo brackets. It’s all in my thread. You will need to trim the center Basel. It’s a kick ass stereo geared to the younger generation Scion buyers. However, it totally suites my purpose.

Putting one in my Toyota made me miss it driving my 45mpg Saturn to work so I figured out the adapter connectors and put one in my 2002 SL Saturn.

Totally no regrets!!!!!!!!


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I put the Alpine BT-143, Alpine KTP-445u and a set of Focal Integration ISS 165 speakers in mine.

I can't tell the difference between the factory amp and adding the KTP-445u.

The problem is by the time I get to medium audio levels, the car starts rattling.

I'm looking at adding an Alpine double DIN head unit with CarPlay/Android Auto, but I've had that project in my noggin since 2019 and still haven't done anything about it.
 
I’ll also say that once the mods are made to the dash any modern Toyota stereo fits and is plug and play.

I eventually pulled the T1819 out and installed a NAV radio with entune from a 2013 Corolla. It does not sound as good as the scion but it’s got NAV.


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Yes, yes yes! Without an amp, the speakers will not sound much better than if you re-ordered Toyota paper cone speakers. There is no substitute for a good amp, not even expensive speakers. If you'd like some ideas, I documented my audio install years ago including how I mounted the tweeters. Many say fitting the speakers are the hard part but I found the tweeters to be an ever tighter fit. The old Toyota tweeters are very tiny.

Thinking About Upgrading Your Sound System? Do It! - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum



Yes on the bracket. I ended up making my own out of MDF board but then again I did put 6 1/2" speakers in the rear for my passengers' delight. To fit a 6 1/2" in the rear though you have to trim the door panel and a slight amount of the storage pocket.





Yes yes yes! Your new speakers are literally screaming to be powered by an amp. No head unit has any decent amount of power it can put out. 15W RMS, 20W RMS, 22W RMS, all not nearly enough and you won't notice any difference then the stock head unit. I highly recommend small 4 channel amp that produces 50-75W RMS. Here are a few examples:

Sound Ordnance™ M75-4 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

Kenwood KAC-M3004 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

If you have your head unit already, look into seeing if they also sell an inline amplifier like I purchases for my Alpine. It requires no wiring at all. That was the part I was dreading when I bought mine years ago so it was the perfect solution. Since then I've done other audio installs that required wiring and while it is a bit of work it's nothing impossible. The inline amplifiers tend to cost more but you save money by not needing an amp install kit and you save lots of time!

You really cannot go wrong with any amp that puts out over 50W RMS. The biggest restriction is size as that will dictate where it can be installed. Mine is actually sitting behind the center console tucked in behind the storage pocket.

One more edit: It is a rabbit hole. After you've bought a head unit for lets say, $250, an amp for $200, speakers for $300 more, brackets and wiring kits for another $100 you've now gone $850 deep. A small powered 10" sub or a compact powered 8" sub will run about $300 more. I really like the small 10" sub though as it adds so much depth to your music but it really does depend on what kind of music. I listen to mostly electronic and dubsteb so a sub is kinda a no-brainer. If you listen to mostly vocal, pop or instrumental types of music then a sub may not make a significant difference.

gamefreakgc, send me a PM if you can please. I don't think mine are going through.
 
Just as a heads up, I would replace the tweeters but also I would test everything out before you close it all back up.

I made the mistake of having everything done but I didn't really test it before buttoning everything back up... The problem I ran into, which is probably unique to my speaker set, is that the tweeters are crazy hot. So now at some point I've got to get back in there and put in a resistor or something. At least I think it's a resistor, I need to read up on it
 
I just installed the Alpine ILX W650 and the back pack amp that goes with it, along with speakers in all doors. LOVE it. Totally transforms the 4R right in to the 2020s. Highly recommend!

Amazon.com
 
Just as a heads up, I would replace the tweeters but also I would test everything out before you close it all back up.

I made the mistake of having everything done but I didn't really test it before buttoning everything back up... The problem I ran into, which is probably unique to my speaker set, is that the tweeters are crazy hot. So now at some point I've got to get back in there and put in a resistor or something. At least I think it's a resistor, I need to read up on it
Probably a capacitor - hopefully they are connected to a crossover!

-Charlie
 
When installing new tweeters. So I snip the wires from the old one, or plug the new tweeters into the old wiring?

Normally the tweeter will come with its own wiring harness that connects to the crossover. If not, use the stock wiring. Only cut the wires if the connectors don't fit on your new tweeters and you have the hardware to connect or solder it.

Just as a heads up, I would replace the tweeters but also I would test everything out before you close it all back up.

I made the mistake of having everything done but I didn't really test it before buttoning everything back up... The problem I ran into, which is probably unique to my speaker set, is that the tweeters are crazy hot. So now at some point I've got to get back in there and put in a resistor or something. At least I think it's a resistor, I need to read up on it

Does your crossover have a decibel adjustment or a "treble boost" switch on it? Mine does and I opted not to enable it for +3DB of treble and instead use the head unit to tune the sound. I would try and access your crossovers and look for it or check the manual online. All else fails go to your head unit and drastically reduce the treble in the audio settings.
 
Normally the tweeter will come with its own wiring harness that connects to the crossover. If not, use the stock wiring. Only cut the wires if the connectors don't fit on your new tweeters and you have the hardware to connect or solder it.



Does your crossover have a decibel adjustment or a "treble boost" switch on it? Mine does and I opted not to enable it for +3DB of treble and instead use the head unit to tune the sound. I would try and access your crossovers and look for it or check the manual online. All else fails go to your head unit and drastically reduce the treble in the audio settings.

I don't think it did but I check. And I messed with the head unit, but the treble just gets out of wack sadly... I just need to fix it the right way.
 

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