BlackWorksInc
New member
So my Re-circulation actuator has been making a soft clicking noise when engaged (which is always in my case) with the stereo off, usually a sign that the motor is failing. Now it still works for the most part, but its reaching the end of its life, the clicking means the motor is losing strength and the position sensor is possibly starting to fail (it has an internal one and the clicking is because it keeps trying to engage the motor when its reached "closed" position). So I'm going to be replacing mine under the extended warranty while I still have it, but for those of you who can't do that, here's the part number:
SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER; SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR BLOWER)
Part Number: 87106-35150
Cost is about $120 from VillageToyotaParts.com
SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER; SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR BLOWER). 2004 TOYOTA 4Runner # 8710635150
Now then, before you get started I will warn you that while you don't need to disconnect the Battery, you will be disconnecting the 4WD, ABS, and PCM units to make enough room to get to the actuator. On the '03 & '04 models this will more than likely mean you lose your Zero-Point Calibration; '05+ may also be affected. Most importantly, do NOT turn the key on at any point when you have any of the modules disconnected to prevent setting an MIL and/or causing damage to the transfer-case. Other than that its pretty straight forward, so lets just dive in!
First off, take the glove box out and remove the single screw holding the plastic undertray beneath the glove box. after that pop off the small kick panel to the right. You should then see the 4WD & ABS modules (you will also see a wire for the Glass Break Sensor IF you have the Optional Factory Security Package installed like I do). At this point it should look something like this:

After you put that stuff off to the side you'll see there's 3 10mm nuts holding the PCM to the body, first disconnect the connectors from the PCM and set them aside as best you can; then remove the nuts and wiggle the module down and out.
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After you get the PCM out of there you'll notice that there's a bracket holding a cluster of connectors, there's a 10mm bolt that secures this to the PCM, remove the bolt and set the PCM aside.

At this point you should have a nice hole where the PCM and connectors used to be, something like this:

Now comes the contortionist part, the actuator is really up there and is held in by two screws which may be hard to get with a regular sized screw driver. Its almost impossible to see in there and so you'll have to do this mostly by guessing and feeling.

This picture shows the actuator installed, with the arrows indicating where the screws are if you are looking up into the dash from underneath.

This picture gives you an idea of where the screws are on the actuator so you can feel around for them:
Just make sure when you re-install the actuator that you have the little plastic pin for the re-circulation air door fit into the wiggly slot of the actuator before you screw it all down. Everything else is just in reverse.
SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER; SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR BLOWER)
Part Number: 87106-35150
Cost is about $120 from VillageToyotaParts.com
SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER; SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR BLOWER). 2004 TOYOTA 4Runner # 8710635150
Now then, before you get started I will warn you that while you don't need to disconnect the Battery, you will be disconnecting the 4WD, ABS, and PCM units to make enough room to get to the actuator. On the '03 & '04 models this will more than likely mean you lose your Zero-Point Calibration; '05+ may also be affected. Most importantly, do NOT turn the key on at any point when you have any of the modules disconnected to prevent setting an MIL and/or causing damage to the transfer-case. Other than that its pretty straight forward, so lets just dive in!
First off, take the glove box out and remove the single screw holding the plastic undertray beneath the glove box. after that pop off the small kick panel to the right. You should then see the 4WD & ABS modules (you will also see a wire for the Glass Break Sensor IF you have the Optional Factory Security Package installed like I do). At this point it should look something like this:

After you put that stuff off to the side you'll see there's 3 10mm nuts holding the PCM to the body, first disconnect the connectors from the PCM and set them aside as best you can; then remove the nuts and wiggle the module down and out.
After you get the PCM out of there you'll notice that there's a bracket holding a cluster of connectors, there's a 10mm bolt that secures this to the PCM, remove the bolt and set the PCM aside.

At this point you should have a nice hole where the PCM and connectors used to be, something like this:

Now comes the contortionist part, the actuator is really up there and is held in by two screws which may be hard to get with a regular sized screw driver. Its almost impossible to see in there and so you'll have to do this mostly by guessing and feeling.

This picture shows the actuator installed, with the arrows indicating where the screws are if you are looking up into the dash from underneath.

This picture gives you an idea of where the screws are on the actuator so you can feel around for them:
Just make sure when you re-install the actuator that you have the little plastic pin for the re-circulation air door fit into the wiggly slot of the actuator before you screw it all down. Everything else is just in reverse.
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