Replacing Re-circulation Actuator

BlackWorksInc

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So my Re-circulation actuator has been making a soft clicking noise when engaged (which is always in my case) with the stereo off, usually a sign that the motor is failing. Now it still works for the most part, but its reaching the end of its life, the clicking means the motor is losing strength and the position sensor is possibly starting to fail (it has an internal one and the clicking is because it keeps trying to engage the motor when its reached "closed" position). So I'm going to be replacing mine under the extended warranty while I still have it, but for those of you who can't do that, here's the part number:


SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER; SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR BLOWER)
Part Number: 87106-35150

Cost is about $120 from VillageToyotaParts.com
SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER; SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR BLOWER). 2004 TOYOTA 4Runner # 8710635150

Now then, before you get started I will warn you that while you don't need to disconnect the Battery, you will be disconnecting the 4WD, ABS, and PCM units to make enough room to get to the actuator. On the '03 & '04 models this will more than likely mean you lose your Zero-Point Calibration; '05+ may also be affected. Most importantly, do NOT turn the key on at any point when you have any of the modules disconnected to prevent setting an MIL and/or causing damage to the transfer-case. Other than that its pretty straight forward, so lets just dive in!

First off, take the glove box out and remove the single screw holding the plastic undertray beneath the glove box. after that pop off the small kick panel to the right. You should then see the 4WD & ABS modules (you will also see a wire for the Glass Break Sensor IF you have the Optional Factory Security Package installed like I do). At this point it should look something like this:




After you put that stuff off to the side you'll see there's 3 10mm nuts holding the PCM to the body, first disconnect the connectors from the PCM and set them aside as best you can; then remove the nuts and wiggle the module down and out.

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After you get the PCM out of there you'll notice that there's a bracket holding a cluster of connectors, there's a 10mm bolt that secures this to the PCM, remove the bolt and set the PCM aside.



At this point you should have a nice hole where the PCM and connectors used to be, something like this:



Now comes the contortionist part, the actuator is really up there and is held in by two screws which may be hard to get with a regular sized screw driver. Its almost impossible to see in there and so you'll have to do this mostly by guessing and feeling.



This picture shows the actuator installed, with the arrows indicating where the screws are if you are looking up into the dash from underneath.



This picture gives you an idea of where the screws are on the actuator so you can feel around for them:

Just make sure when you re-install the actuator that you have the little plastic pin for the re-circulation air door fit into the wiggly slot of the actuator before you screw it all down. Everything else is just in reverse.
 
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Thank You BlackWorks! I had this problem since June 2012, but no one on this forums knew how to change it out. Anyways, I have a 2005 2wd V8, what do you mean by losing Zero-Point Calibration? Do I need to get the little plastic pin for the re-circulation air door fit from the old module? I'm really want to change the servo out since it is making loud clicking noise now. Thanks again!
 
Thank You BlackWorks! I had this problem since June 2012, but no one on this forums knew how to change it out. Anyways, I have a 2005 2wd V8, what do you mean by losing Zero-Point Calibration? Do I need to get the little plastic pin for the re-circulation air door fit from the old module? I'm really want to change the servo out since it is making loud clicking noise now. Thanks again!

ZPC = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55XmiSsGQgo (This is if you don't have the proper tools* to perform it)..

By Proper tools, I mean this guy Toyota Mini VCI Tis Techstream J2534 OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner Software | eBay , an invaluable tool for all sorts of things including but not limited to the ZPC.


PS: Sorry to cloud your thread up, BWI
 
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Not a problem guys.

ZPC- Zero Point Calibration

Its what the system uses to determine if your vehicle is "level" for ABS, TRAC, and VSC purposes. The '03 & '04 models are sensitive so if the voltage dips below about 12.0v the memory gets erased and you get ABS & VSC lights on (no MIL usually though). You may have this issue on your '05+ models because you are unplugging the ABS module, but I'm not entirely sure.

TIS shows no instructions on how to remove the actuator, just where it was and AllData has a labor of .8hrs to replace the actuator so I did an experiment to see how much of a pain it was to get out since none of my coworkers has done one on a 4Runner yet. Figured I'd post the results for you guys because a few people have asked about it.
 
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] reposting these pics would be awesome. My recirc is totally dead at this point.

I’ve had this open before to try and fix the blend door actuator, so I’m real sure I don’t wanna get in there again without pics.
 
I've got to do some more troubleshooting but I'm now thinking my recirculation actuator is starting to go ('06 Sport, 140K). At first I thought it was the temp control servo "hunting" because it would seem to click and make more racket if the inside temp was set somewhat close to the exterior air temp. However, this morning there was a family of mice chattering away in the dashboard. I cranked the temp down to the LO setting to force it to max out the cold. It was still making some racket until I hit the button to turn recirculate off. At that point the fan speed was still pretty high but all the clicking and popping in the dash seemed to subside. I turned recirculate back on and the noise came back.

I've seen a video and a few posts where folks were cracking the actuator apart and simply cleaning the index wheel and contacts. For the amount of hassle replacing this part I don't know if that's worth it. Anyone care to comment on their success/failure stories with servicing vs replacing the actuators?
 
Just replaced the recirculation servo on my 2005 today. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t easy. My suggestion for anyone doing this is use a 1/4” socket wrench with a 1/4” socket with a philips head bit to remove the upper screw. You can’t really get a stubby screw driver in there, but you can use a stubby to get the bottom screw out.

The most difficult part was making sure to get the “pin” on the actuator arm in the wiggly slot of the servo. Set the servo in place and thread the bottom screw in just to keep the servo from falling. There’s enough play to line things up. Once you’re good, just tighten down the bottom screw and then do the top one.
 
I see one picture in the original post. Is it possible to have the other pics re-attached as I am going to be attempting this very soon. Thanks!
 
I'll be keeping my eye on this. Mine started acting up this summer. It's starting to cool off a bit around here, but if I can get it done this fall, it'll be one less thing I need to get done in the spring.

If anyone tackles it, please post more pics. Judging by the comments, it won't be the easiest thing.

EDIT: The search function out here really DOES work: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...servos-diagnostic-repair-replace-options.html
 
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Wondering if there’s anyway the photos could get reposted for this excellent write up?

Want to do this on my 4runner and these write ups are always the most useful source of info (pics especially).
 
[MENTION=113703]46runner[/MENTION] - excellent write up. Did you also replace the recirculation actuator as well?

That is the one I am looking to replace.

I realize I can probably use this to at least get access to the recirc actuator.

Thanks!
 
[MENTION=113703]46runner[/MENTION] - excellent write up. Did you also replace the recirculation actuator as well?

That is the one I am looking to replace.

I realize I can probably use this to at least get access to the recirc actuator.

Thanks!
 
Autozone Alternative

Thanks for posting this write up. It took me about 2.5 hours. I recommend installing the electrical connector before installing the actuator, the electrical connector points up towards the windshield.

I also found that Autozone sells the actuator, part number MT18605, for ~$40. However, it does not include the plastic piece that goes on front. It is easy to remove by simply lifting a tab in the center.
 

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I replaced the other two servos this weekend that are on the other side of the blower motor box. I used a Harbor Freight right angle screwdriver with some extensions and they came out with lots of patience. The Autozone servo motor works great for one of them, but the other is a stealer only part with the gear glued on, part number 87106-35180.

Update, here are pictures of the two parts. The one with the tab in the center has the removable gear and the Autozone actuator replacement works great. The metal bracket is removed with three screws. The other one has the plastic gear glued on and can't be removed without breaking it (which I did :Cry:) I think this is a dealer only part, but maybe someone else has a different solution.
 

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