Replacing rear license plate bezel

I do believe I will be painting mine will still on the hatch, LOL. Also, not to change the subject, but what are the bolt dimensions for holding the license plate on with? The PO has two non metric bolts holding the plate on with and no that don't seat all the way down. :doh:
 
Old thread but I wanted to post here since others may have the same problem. When replacing my license plate surround, everything went great until I tried to reattach the 4 bolts for the window motor assembly. I did this with the window all the way up and now I can't get enough slack to align any of the 4 bolts. Any ideas?
 
Problem Solved. Here's what worked for me.

With the window motor assembly still unbolted, I closed the lift gate and reconnected all the electrical connections. I then carefully used the dash control to lower the lift gate window just an inch or so. A few short taps to the switch. This gave enough play that I could easily align and bolt down the assembly.
 
I want to add something. I used a crow bar to help lift the motor to line up the holes. This was an extremely difficult mod, so be patient and be careful. The teeth on the motor are wicked sharp. 20160227_194009.jpg20160227_200903.jpg
You can also order the replacement seal, so water does not get into hatch.20160227_193257.jpg
One last thing. Long needle nose pliers are a must.

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Does anyone have a parts breakdown of the rear door? I'm looking for the plastic tabs that hold the license plate bezel/frame on. They should include a rubber gasket with them as well.

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Just tape it dude. It's really not hard to tape that rear license plate bezel. I taped it and bed lined mine. Photos in my build thread. The bezel is not perfectly flush, so it's easy to slide the tape right behind the plastic. And then over lap another piece of tape. I taped everything of. And you could not tell the difference if it was taped and painted or removed and painted.
 
I want to add something. I used a crow bar to help lift the motor to line up the holes. This was an extremely difficult mod, so be patient and be careful. The teeth on the motor are wicked sharp.View attachment 228463View attachment 228466
You can also order the replacement seal, so water does not get into hatch.View attachment 228467
One last thing. Long needle nose pliers are a must.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

But doesn't water get into the hatch anyways ? There's a drain hole on the hatch for water to get out. Like a regular door
 
So I guess swapping mine out for a chrome one isn't worth the TIME to do it...



It's a bugger. But not impossible. Drop the window 1 inch first. Plenty of steps on how and all good tips. The needle nose or a long 1/4" drive extension with the opening for the ratchet on those plastic clips worked for me. Just insert and rotate and push. Do not forget the two 10mm nuts that hold the rear hatch release handle. You can get one of them without moving the window mechanism out of the way.

I just removed mine to aid in drilling out the mounting bolts that the PO twisted off removing the plate after I bought it.

My outside handle part is real rusty. I'm probably going to look at a new replacement to put it back together.


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Long story short, I had to remove my license plate bezel to fix the stripped out screws for the light bulb covers. It was an absolute freaking nightmare. If you want to remove yours purely for cosmetic reasons, I wouldn't do it

If I never have to take that damn thing off ever again, I will die a happy man. Lets just put it this way, I would rather remove my starter 3x than take that stupid thing off again...
 
I just took mine off the other week. Now that I know how, it wouldn't be too difficult to do it again. It's confusing back there with all the stuff. I ave skinny arms though.

One of the bolts is accessible with a socket extension. The other one is behind the white shroud thing for the window gear thing. I just got a hacksaw blade and cut a notch in the white thing and I was able to access the second bolt with the extension. That way I don't have to undo any of the window components.
 
I just took mine off the other week. Now that I know how, it wouldn't be too difficult to do it again. It's confusing back there with all the stuff. I ave skinny arms though.



One of the bolts is accessible with a socket extension. The other one is behind the white shroud thing for the window gear thing. I just got a hacksaw blade and cut a notch in the white thing and I was able to access the second bolt with the extension. That way I don't have to undo any of the window components.



You know, though about that after figuring out that rain deflector is molded to the window linkage mounting hardware. Wouldn't have saved me much removal time though. Sadly. The 4 bolts and letting the window hardware slide down out of the way is no biggy after dropping the window 1".


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I removed and repaired the bezel due to a dropped lock last summer, all went well

Then, two weeks ago, I was removing the glue left from my emblems and thought I would clean around the bezel and I burned the bezel and ripped the rubber washer that seals it to the body

Looks like I am either going to replace the bezel, or repair it, paint it, and silicone it to the body. Yay me
 
I removed and repaired the bezel due to a dropped lock last summer, all went well



Then, two weeks ago, I was removing the glue left from my emblems and thought I would clean around the bezel and I burned the bezel and ripped the rubber washer that seals it to the body



Looks like I am either going to replace the bezel, or repair it, paint it, and silicone it to the body. Yay me



You know I did the removal thing a few years ago for the first time when I swapped hatches between the totaled 96 and the 97 "Puppy Hauler" that had a dent. It was no issue not caring about removal since one was junk anyway. Two years later I'll be darn if I had to figure it out all over again. I'd thought I would remember. Nope.......I didn't brake anything. Just forgot about dropping the window a inch or two.


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Long story short, I had to remove my license plate bezel to fix the stripped out screws for the light bulb covers. It was an absolute freaking nightmare. If you want to remove yours purely for cosmetic reasons, I wouldn't do it

If I never have to take that damn thing off ever again, I will die a happy man. Lets just put it this way, I would rather remove my starter 3x than take that stupid thing off again...

Noted. Damn. I wish the made chrome paint in a can that didn't look like jsut plain silver when it was sprayed. Would be cool for some parts.
 
Long story short, I had to remove my license plate bezel to fix the stripped out screws for the light bulb covers. It was an absolute freaking nightmare. If you want to remove yours purely for cosmetic reasons, I wouldn't do it

If I never have to take that damn thing off ever again, I will die a happy man. Lets just put it this way, I would rather remove my starter 3x than take that stupid thing off again...

Did you detach the window regulator? It's pretty easy once that is out of the way and only takes a moment.
 
I can't remember what I did and didn't do, all I remember was it being a pain in the ass. Maybe if you have really small hands/arms but I'm 6'4" 285lbs and my arms/hands got all cut up and scratched trying to get it out.

Plus once I did fix it and put it all back together, the door latch wouldn't work after i closed it. I had to pull the back plastic panel off while the door was closed which was a nightmare. Finally got it back apart and opened up to realize the handle wasn't working because......it was locked. Son of a B....!!!

It took me like 6+ hours to replace two flipping license plate bulbs.....

:ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick:
 
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