Replacing rust belt brake lines front end 2000 SR5 4Runner

[Gary Blake]

The front hard brake line just above the flex hose on the driver's side front developed a pin hole due to rust - joys of living in the rust belt.

I am going to be replacing the hard lines from the caliper, flex lines, and the first hard line above the flex hose on both sides. (Passenger side is not quite as badly rusted but I want to put both sides in to the same condition)

Waiting for the hard lines coming from Toyota, went with the stainless steel jacket versions from Toytec for the flex hoses. These were less than half the cost of OEM Toyota ($C150.00 for OEM each side) and also about two inches longer which will work well with my 3" lift. Very nice looking high quality parts (Made in USA ) and very fast shipping, came with the 4 clips as well, thank you Toytec!

Any tips from rust belt driveway mechanics on getting the very rusted connector out of the first junction on the top of the frame would be appreciated.

Also looking for any suggestions on what to block the junction with once the connector is removed?

Gary

 

[Captsolo]

Gary:

Wow! That's a lot of rust on those brake lines/fittings. I have a 2005 SR5 - 145,000 miles. Had a brake job a few years ago by a mechanic shop with 10 lifts and experienced mechanics (with the tools) and they let me bring them the parts (calipers, etc.). Parts and labor was under $300.

I'd have all the lines looked at on a lift at a brake job place - I wouldn't do those brakes myself.

Good luck.

PS I had a GMC Jimmy, and I've seen brake lines rust away bad - like yours. Had to replace some brake line sections, if I remember.

Got to have brakes for the 4runner.

 

[spartacus]

Soak it with pb blaster, try to get the pb blaster to seep into the threads and use a wrench put pressure on it but don't brake it free do it a couplee of times with increasing pressure. If that doesn't work use heat on the nut not the line.

 

[Sarki]

I also live in an area that has to deal with treated snowy roads in the winter which results in crusty/rusty hardware.
For something like you have there I would start with a small handheld wire brush to clean up as good as possible and then spray the fittings with Kroil.
I have tried all of the spray rust Penetrants over the years and have had the best success with Kroil.
If possible hit those areas with Kroil several times a day for a few days prior to removal and you should be ok.

 

[MN4runnerman]

Before you even stick a flare wrench on it to try to take it off cut the line as close as you can to the nut. Then use a 6 point 10mm deep socket instead. I’ve had much better luck doing that instead of using a wrench. Soak it in pb blaster or whatever your favorite flavor of rust penetrant is first.

 

[Gnfanatic]

Guys. I had my 2020 4runner on a lift and was surprised to see all my lines are coated in a black plastic or rubber to help against corrosion. Did the earlier generations have this coating as well???

 

[Gary Blake]

Gary:

Wow! That's a lot of rust on those brake lines/fittings. I have a 2005 SR5 - 145,000 miles. Had a brake job a few years ago by a mechanic shop with 10 lifts and experienced mechanics (with the tools) and they let me bring them the parts (calipers, etc.). Parts and labor was under $300.

I'd have all the lines looked at on a lift at a brake job place - I wouldn't do those brakes myself.

Good luck.

PS I had a GMC Jimmy, and I've seen brake lines rust away bad - like yours. Had to replace some brake line sections, if I remember.

Got to have brakes for the 4runner.

Yeah, this one has 331,000 miles (US truck bought in Arizona in 2005 with 89,000) so its been around the block a few times.

Trouble is it's not drive-able, sitting on jack stands in the driveway. As long as I can get that one fitting out OK the rest should be easy. Had new calipers put on a while back so the fitting on the caliper is not too rusty and the rest can be cut out.

They have switched to using liquid brine instead of rock salt and that stuff seems even worse....

 

[Gary Blake]

Soak it with pb blaster, try to get the pb blaster to seep into the threads and use a wrench put pressure on it but don't brake it free do it a couplee of times with increasing pressure. If that doesn't work use heat on the nut not the line.

Thanks, been doing that as well as wire brushing, going to scrape the joint between the fitting and the junction as well to try and get the pb blaster in there

 

[Gary Blake]

I also live in an area that has to deal with treated snowy roads in the winter which results in crusty/rusty hardware.
For something like you have there I would start with a small handheld wire brush to clean up as good as possible and then spray the fittings with Kroil.
I have tried all of the spray rust Penetrants over the years and have had the best success with Kroil.
If possible hit those areas with Kroil several times a day for a few days prior to removal and you should be ok.

Thanks, don't have Kroil just pb blaster and wd 40, might be waiting till monday or tuesday for the parts so it should have a good soak in by then....

 

[Gary Blake]

Before you even stick a flare wrench on it to try to take it off cut the line as close as you can to the nut. Then use a 6 point 10mm deep socket instead. I’ve had much better luck doing that instead of using a wrench. Soak it in pb blaster or whatever your favorite flavor of rust penetrant is first.

Thanks a lot, that's a great idea, then I can also just crush the end of the cut line at the junction and use the old fitting as a plug while I attach the new lines - don't want the master cylinder to drain....

 

[Gary Blake]

Guys. I had my 2020 4runner on a lift and was surprised to see all my lines are coated in a black plastic or rubber to help against corrosion. Did the earlier generations have this coating as well???

Definitely not on my 2000, come back in 20 years though and let us know how that coating is working

 

[Sarki]

Before you even stick a flare wrench on it to try to take it off cut the line as close as you can to the nut. Then use a 6 point 10mm deep socket instead. I’ve had much better luck doing that instead of using a wrench. Soak it in pb blaster or whatever your favorite flavor of rust penetrant is first.

Great suggestion to cut the line and use 6 point socket. Will remember that for future if needed.

 

[garn79]

C150? Are u in Cda? I'm doing same job and would like to order parts asap..

Curious if you are, if you ordered from U.S. or Cda for Toytec lines, source/site? Part #s? Also wondering what your hard lines set you back @stealership?

I live in Maritimes and so far I've had best luck as mentioned by Sarki using wire brush to clean up area 1st then several applications before starting work...
But from a thread here on this site I started using a 50/50 mix of Acetone & Tranny fluid with best results..

 

[Gary Blake]

C150? Are u in Cda? I'm doing same job and would like to order parts asap..

Curious if you are, if you ordered from U.S. or Cda for Toytec lines, source/site? Part #s? Also wondering what your hard lines set you back @stealership?

I live in Maritimes and so far I've had best luck as mentioned by Sarki using wire brush to clean up area 1st then several applications before starting work...
But from a thread here on this site I started using a 50/50 mix of Acetone & Tranny fluid with best results..

Yep, in Ontario C$300.00 for the two flex lines quoted by my local dealership, vs $US62.00 for the pair from Toytec.

web Toyota Suspension Lift Kits, Parts & Accessories - Toytec Lifts

Part no: SS-4RFBL

Ordered mine June 2, received June 3, paid for the expedited Fedex shipping.

Also came with the 4 clips that Toyota wants $4.00 each for....

Hard lines are about c$16.00 each which seems reasonable and saves me buying bending and flaring tools.

Gary

 

[garn79]

Sweet thanks Gary I wrongly assumed a long wait coming from us with covid, gonna hop on that link.

cheers, jeff

 

[Gary Blake]

Sweet thanks Gary I wrongly assumed a long wait coming from us with covid, gonna hop on that link.

cheers, jeff

No, they have a good checkout system for Canadian orders on their website, lets you pre pay the duties and taxes, make sure to take this option and it avoids the package getting hung up in customs.

(My last delivery sat almost 6 weeks in customs without this option)

Gary

 

[garn79]

ahh, invaluable info! I'm used to shipping to Maine then we go p/u..
really appreciate!

 

[Drew76]

I replaced the hard line from the elbow fitting at the frame to the flex line with a 12" off the shelf pre-flared piece from Canadian tire and bent it up myself.

Then I used the 95-04 Tacoma extended braided line from Wheeler's Off Road to go directly from the bracket to the caliper which has a banjo fitting on the caliper end. This deletes the small hardline at the caliper. I only have a 1.5" lift but the line is plenty long enough.

long.FRONT BRAKE LINE SET FOR 1995-2004 TACOMA 4X4 AND PRERUNNER (TF BLINE-07, RED OR BLACK)

 

[Gary Blake]

I replaced the hard line from the elbow fitting at the frame to the flex line with a 12" off the shelf pre-flared piece from Canadian tire and bent it up myself.

Then I used the 95-04 Tacoma extended braided line from Wheeler's Off Road to go directly from the bracket to the caliper which has a banjo fitting on the caliper end. This deletes the small hardline at the caliper. I only have a 1.5" lift but the line is plenty long enough.

long.FRONT BRAKE LINE SET FOR 1995-2004 TACOMA 4X4 AND PRERUNNER (TF BLINE-07, RED OR BLACK)

Thanks Drew, I looked at that option as well but Wheelers doesn't have a customs/tax prepay option on their cart checkout. With the current covid situation and needing to get back on the road I did not want to take the chance of having brake lines sitting in customs for 5-6 weeks (like my last package). Also not sure if these would work with a 3" lift.

 

[garn79]

Sweet Drew, kudos to.your outside of the box solution, crappy tire, nvr would of thought.

What type of fitting should one be looking for @cdntire? I'm ignorant in regards to fitting size,flare type, metric vs standard also matters yes?

Also have you replaced the rear flex hose in the middle where the 2 hard lines from the drums meet...if so did you go stock or aftermarket?