I used a 3/16 x 12" line - PMA312 is the number on the part. I have not yet replaced the rear hose but I do have it, bought it from Wheelers also and it is longer.
Replacing rust belt brake lines front end 2000 SR5 4Runner
- Thread starter Gary Blake
- Start date
I used a 3/16 x 12" line - PMA312 is the number on the part. I have not yet replaced the rear hose but I do have it, bought it from Wheelers also and it is longer.
brillo_76
Elite Member
All excellent tips and ideas on this rusted brake lines.
I always use the cut line with 6 point sockets after soaking in penetrating oil and heating a few times if need be. So +1 on those methods.
I use OEM lines mostly because of their reasonable costs in the United States.
I See are Canadian neighbors dont have these kinds of options as the pricing is insane for some reason.
Stainless can be very hard to with because is extremely stiff and very costly.
If I dont have reasonable pricing of lines available.
I probably make my own out of ni cu tube stock and buy a good flare tool kit. As this would solve having to change them again in the rust belt. To me nothing worse then having to do a job again by using poor quality lines.
Another option is the premade lines of ni cu lines. Just make sure you match the flares on the nuts that you removed.
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I always use the cut line with 6 point sockets after soaking in penetrating oil and heating a few times if need be. So +1 on those methods.
I use OEM lines mostly because of their reasonable costs in the United States.
I See are Canadian neighbors dont have these kinds of options as the pricing is insane for some reason.
Stainless can be very hard to with because is extremely stiff and very costly.
If I dont have reasonable pricing of lines available.
I probably make my own out of ni cu tube stock and buy a good flare tool kit. As this would solve having to change them again in the rust belt. To me nothing worse then having to do a job again by using poor quality lines.
Another option is the premade lines of ni cu lines. Just make sure you match the flares on the nuts that you removed.
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NJ-4Runner
Member
Also if you are cutting the line to get the six point on it there is always the option of using vise grips on the flare nut if the wrench rounds it off since it will be ruined anyway. There should be enough space there that you could get a pretty big pair of vice grips on there. You might even want to go with the big vice grip option from the get-go while there is still some kind of flat spot on the flare nut.
All excellent tips and ideas on this rusted brake lines.
I always use the cut line with 6 point sockets after soaking in penetrating oil and heating a few times if need be. So +1 on those methods.
I use OEM lines mostly because of their reasonable costs in the United States.
I See are Canadian neighbors dont have these kinds of options as the pricing is insane for some reason.
Stainless can be very hard to with because is extremely stiff and very costly
99-06 GM Full-size trucks are known for having the brake lines rust out, GM used sub par materials for them and located the abs module under the drivers seat area at the frame - perfect location to be sprayed with slush/salt. I had mine rust out and replaced every hard brake line with stainless steel in a kit pre-bent with all stainless fittings from a company called inline tube. The price wasn't that bad, maybe $500. I already checked they don't make any kits for Toyotas, that was 8 years ago and the lines are still mint!
brillo_76
Elite Member
Bogus on the GM.. I mostly only have to replace the Toyota lines once with OEM on the neglected runners from PO. then paint them keep them under a rust inhibitor and mostly good as long as I have them..
If its a major problem up your way. I just get the flare tool and spools of NI CU with some shipped in nuts and just make your own. You have some money in a good tool but the flare nut themselves aren't bad.. Tubing really isnt either unless Canada is doing something silly..:/
Sorry to bump an old thread but i'm in the search for this brake line adaptor because I might have to replace it when I do my brake lines next. I found my hard lines heavily corroded so I plan to replace a couple soon but i'm not sure if i'll be able be able to save this adaptor.
Also see that Toyota doesn't sell the pre-bent OEM hard lines anymore which sucks. Props to Drew76 for the pic!
Also see that Toyota doesn't sell the pre-bent OEM hard lines anymore which sucks. Props to Drew76 for the pic!
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brillo_76
Elite Member
What do you mean they don't sale prevent lines anymore?Sorry to bump an old thread but i'm in the search for this brake line adaptor because I might have to replace it when I do my brake lines next. I found my hard lines heavily corroded so I plan to replace a couple soon but i'm not sure if i'll be able be able to save this adaptor.
Also see that Toyota doesn't sell the pre-bent OEM hard lines anymore which sucks. Props to Drew76 for the pic!
I just bought a few hard lines prebent. I now have the ability to make my own using copper nickle and stainless steel nuts.
I also checked and those adapters and lines are still available pre bent from Toyota.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Sorry to bump an old thread but i'm in the search for this brake line adaptor because I might have to replace it when I do my brake lines next. I found my hard lines heavily corroded so I plan to replace a couple soon but i'm not sure if i'll be able be able to save this adaptor.
Also see that Toyota doesn't sell the pre-bent OEM hard lines anymore which sucks. Props to Drew76 for the pic!
What do you mean they don't sale prevent lines anymore?
I just bought a few hard lines prebent. I now have the ability to make my own using copper nickle and stainless steel nuts.
I also checked and those adapters and lines are still available pre bent from Toyota.
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Does that "adapter" do anything beside re-direct the brake line by 90° ?
What do you mean they don't sale prevent lines anymore?
I just bought a few hard lines prebent. I now have the ability to make my own using copper nickle and stainless steel nuts.
I also checked and those adapters and lines are still available pre bent from Toyota.
I guess I wasn't looking at the right thing in the catalog. Nice to know its still available! Going to take another look right now and see if I can locate some lines.
It doesn't look very useful tbh. Maybe I will bypass it if I choose to go with copper lines and bend them.
brillo_76
Elite Member
The adapter on the passenger side makes changing the starter a lot easier as you can move the line out of your way yet leave it connected.
The driver side may make it easier to remove the upper control arm bushing bolt and removal as well for the control arm the same reason. I think they both are for purposes like those as well as having a union right out of the wheel well behind rubber aprons. Thus not having to replace a long line if they get damaged..
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The driver side may make it easier to remove the upper control arm bushing bolt and removal as well for the control arm the same reason. I think they both are for purposes like those as well as having a union right out of the wheel well behind rubber aprons. Thus not having to replace a long line if they get damaged..
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
I replaced my upper control arms this weekend and never had to touch that adapter or move the brake line on either side to do so.
IIRC, I didn't have to do anything with that brake line on the 2WD pass side to replace the starter, but looking at it on my 4WD that union and line is definitely in the way...
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Jakeepoo3
New member
I was going to say to fab your own lines for next to nothing but I reckon you found it cheap. I use a small piece of rubber hose that will fit inside the line and force a bolt in the open end to make a easy plug stopper whatever you wanna call it.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
A small vacuum cap is what I use as a temporary stopper when changing lines, etc. As long as no one steps on the brake pedal it holds just fine.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Oh good to know. Maybe it was used a simply a holder of the 2 lines on the driver side then.
I never had to replace those union adapters and i have 2 fairly rusty 3 gens as well.
Up to the owner of the rig if they stay or go..
