Replacing stock speakers in 2008 4Runner

Re: Re: I

sting555 said:
I'm not sure that simply adding new speakers would "tighten the enclosure cavity".
Like he said, read the post. Look out for the word "Dynomat".

Also, the stock headunit is not designed to power 2ohm speakers. By lowering the impedence, you may get more output from it's internal amp but you may risk damaging it. You will generate more heat by running the amp at 2ohms. Either way, going from 5.7w x 4 to 11.4w x 4 still isn't going to get you to the point where you're going to be impressed by the sound. Bottom line is that the stock headunit has a very weak amplifier. There's really no getting around that fact.

You may have some points there, but there are those of us 1) that know that drawing 2 ohms out of a low power 4 ohm system isn't going to do that much if any damage and 2) don't need a competition level sound system to be more satisfied than we were with 100% factory components. I am all for leaving the factory nav system alone and upgrading the speakers - nothing looks cleaner. Some things may *work* better, to your individual taste, but nothing looks better, certainly if like me you have the factory back up camera that is already seamlessly integrated into the factory nav/stereo setup. I spent most of my late teens and 20s installing custom audio solutions in autos...and I hate the look of an aftermarket head unit stuffed into a factory opening...They hardly ever look 100% clean, even with the best of "adapters". Point is, all this audio stuff is personal taste, and some of us do not have the taste for thousands of watts anymore. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt and the permanently damaged hearing that goes with it (tinnitus)...all we want now is clean sound, at low power.
 
Re: Re: Re: I

SubSonic said:
Like he said, read the post. Look out for the word "Dynomat".



You may have some points there, but there are those of us 1) that know that drawing 2 ohms out of a low power 4 ohm system isn't going to do that much if any damage and 2) don't need a competition level sound system to be more satisfied than we were with 100% factory components. I am all for leaving the factory nav system alone and upgrading the speakers - nothing looks cleaner. Some things may *work* better, to your individual taste, but nothing looks better, certainly if like me you have the factory back up camera that is already seamlessly integrated into the factory nav/stereo setup. I spent most of my late teens and 20s installing custom audio solutions in autos...and I hate the look of an aftermarket head unit stuffed into a factory opening...They hardly ever look 100% clean, even with the best of "adapters". Point is, all this audio stuff is personal taste, and some of us do not have the taste for thousands of watts anymore. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt and the permanently damaged hearing that goes with it (tinnitus)...all we want now is clean sound, at low power.

I agree with most of what you're saying here. However, running a set of component speakers, that really want more power, off of a factory head unit is going to give you very limited benefit. The stock speakers are more suited for the low power application. If you have the 2ohm speakers hooked up to the head unit, you wont be able to turn the volume very loud without the amp clipping and causing distortion. So back to my point, the benefit is very limited.

With that being said, yes, you would probably see a slight increase in SQ at low volume levels by upgrading just the speakers. Most people who are going to invest several hundred dollars into an audio upgrade would probably be slightly disappointed if they were to do this.
 
Re: Re: I

drmorbius said:
I do pro audio repair and I can tell you that the stock H/U has a badly distorted waveform (on a scope) at just past 50% volume and it just gets worse from there. The factory speakers are made by Pioneer and really are not that bad. The guys that are telling you to go aftermarket with the head unit are not fools. In the case of Clemsonfan it's what he does for a living and he knows what he is talking about. I just thought you might want to know that there are some other audio professionals around here too. :bigok:

Lol...Now there's some data.

I am by no means a pro but am glad to hear some of the more experienced guys somewhat agree....By replacing only the speakers you're just slapping some lipstick on a pig.
 
Mister Moose said:
I think what makes the difference is that Infinfity is 2 ohm, as opposed to 4 ohm.


Sorry not to familiar with all the tech terms. Could you explain the difference between 2 & 4 ohm? What are the advantages/disadvantages of both 2 & 4 ohm?

A thank you in advance.
 
OK, I'm curious... What kind of quality are the stock speakers in the 4Runner (2008)? The head unit in my truck is the Toyota OEM Nav (e7008 - i think) with the stock speakers. Crap? OK? Excellent?

If a person wanted to replace only the speakers what would you all recommend and what kind of improvement in sound could be expected? Just the speakers, not the nav or the amp.

Thanks!

Another option you have if you want to keep your factory Nav HU is go and get the JL audio Cleansweep. I had it on my Highlander that had bluetooth on the steering wheel..etc. that I didn't want to hack the dash to change out because it would have looked funny. With the cleansweep, I could keep my current OEM HU and steering wheel controls but have the sound output source be hifi to my amps since the OEM HU SQ sucks.

CS plus an amp would cost a little more than a really good single din HU but cheaper than a quality double din Nav that did bluetooth and integrates with your steering wheel.

Just a thought.
 
I would suggest:
Infinity Reference 6020cs for the front, and Infinity Reference 5020cs for the rear. They are both Component Systems, and available at Crutchfield..
The fronts drops right in, and you will need to mount the supplied crossover.
The rear will require drilling a hole to mount the tweeter, I suggest about 6" or so above the speaker grill on the door panel, and you will also need to mount the crossover.
I suggest you set the crossovers to the -3db setting.
Also, great idea to Dynomat the doors.
The install is fairly easy, and if you haven't done this before, you might want to have Best Buy, or another experienced installer do the work.
I do a lot of concert audio engineering and production, and this upgrade greatly exceeded my expectations for increased output and quality.
 

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