Requesting unbiased opinion

[raKnizek]

I am helping my brother find a third gen. He is located in one of the 4Runner-mecas (Colorado) so there are plenty to choose from.

He went to look at this one yesterday. It is a really cool configuration and appears to be in great shape despite the miles. I walked him through all the "quirks" when looking for a 3rd gen and this one appears to check out. No pink-milkshake to worry about is a plus. Was hoping to grab some quick input from you all. The most obvious issue is the price!

I told him 7k max and even then its too high. But maybe someone from the area would suggest otherwise.

- The color, 5-speed w. the locker, and the fact that it is a 2-owner all drive the price up.
- The lack of maintenance history (appears to be purchased at auction by the current seller) and mileage bring the price down.

The bias on my end is that mine is also a 5-speed so it would be that much cooler if his were too.

My brothers bias? The thing is rad so who can blame him for being interested?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Syr4RinNC]

I agree - looks nice, but price is above what Id pay. Buyer be ware with head gasket etc

While there's certainly a cool factor/ some limited availability to a nice 3rd gen, you could probably find a 4runner 5-10 years newer with half the miles for this price, which means its over priced

Start the negotiation if he wants it, 7k seems like a reasonable offer

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I guess it depends on how much of a premium he's willing to pay for the 5 speed and the color.

I bought my '97 Limited, also with rear locker, about a year ago with less miles for about half that price.

Let's do a side by side:

Mine vs '98 CL
miles - 167K vs 223k
price - $4.5K vs $9K
owners - one vs two

Everything else seems to be the same.

So I dunno, maybe the CL one with 223K should go for $5k, if the manual is very important to him?

 

[MaineRunna]

That is one beautiful 4Runner and probably rust free, but that price is way too high. I buy and sell these all the time and would probably ask about $7k for this and be prepared to take around $5. (I am not a dealer) The KBB on that is about $5k private sale with that mileage. I just sold a nice 2000 w/ 200k on it for $4500, and a 96 with 175k on it for $3000. I would keep shopping unless they will come down considerably on price. I would consider that price if it only had like 150k or less on it. I just got the wife a nice clean 05 with 217k for $4800. I understand that pricing and the rust situation is different in Colorado than it is here in Maine, so keep that one in mind, but keep looking.

 

[4Reak Show]

Well this is a pickle. You nailed the main points but I am curious why you mentioned "pink milkshake" for one with a manual... Unless you were referring to that common issue in general with 3rd gens.

Anyway, you can't really put a price on something you really want. And this does look clean as sh!t to me. And pretty much unmolested and BONE stock. Add a manual with factory e locker and this is VERY rare. I would show up with a blue book print out, and go from there. My max would be $7,000, MAYBE $7,500 if I'm really getting aroused when I'm near it.

The bottom line on worries for me isn't there. Even if it was neglected and has had zero maintenance, you're starting with a great setup. And these truck are very easy to repair, even the big repairs. For example, eBay has rebuilt long blocks shipped for about $1800. So even if the engine explodes on the ride home, you can put in a ZERO MILE engine and be good for another 300,000 miles easy after a weekend and a case of beer.

When shopping for a 20+ years old vehicle, you're going to always be gambling on something. So I would argue it's better to get as close to what you want from the start. Everything else can always be repaired. It's ran for 220,000 so far.... If something was real bad it wouldn't have made it this far.

Just check basics like pulling off the oil filler cap and check for sludge in the valve cover with a flashlight if you can. That's a great telltale of maintenance since oil changing is as basic as it gets so if that is gross then nothing else has been done.

If you guys can afford it, buy it and love it. Eventually you're probably going to go thru everything anyway. But the fact it's already got what you want from factory is the killer part for me.

 

[BrianSD_42]

For that truck, his initial price is way way high. If that truck is worth $9k then mine has to be worth $12k and I definitely don't believe that.

When buying an older vehicle especially one that has no maintenance history, is ~20 years old and with many many miles on the odometer it is smart to get it inspected by a mechanic and INSIST that they do a compression test on all cylinders. You would pay for this but it shouldn't cost much, probably around $100.

Despite the lore and legend of these v6 engines, they actually are actually very very reliable UNTIL they break and then it costs you thousands of dollars.

Personally, my head gasket went out at 199k, second owner since 65k all maintenance done and documented. You can't predict these things. My engine ran PERFECT until the day it started misfiring.

Get the truck examined by a mechanic. Do the compression test. It is a completely legitimate request. If they tell you they don't want it tested that would be a huge red flag.

Lastly keep in mind that many of these trucks in CO listed for $6,999 would be listed in TX for $3,499 and often trucks are sold at auction and moved to higher cost regions just to drive the price up.

Side note: a manual is often on T4R completely overrated and a 200k mile gear box with old syncros and grinding gears or expensive clutch issues it's far from guaranteed happy times. Don't assume that owning an old old manual will be closely like the experience of a new car manual. At least with our automatic transmission they usually either work great or start slipping and failing but not too much in-between.
.

 

[thennen]

I am helping my brother find a third gen. He is located in one of the 4Runner-mecas (Colorado) so there are plenty to choose from.

He went to look at this one yesterday. It is a really cool configuration and appears to be in great shape despite the miles. I walked him through all the "quirks" when looking for a 3rd gen and this one appears to check out. No pink-milkshake to worry about is a plus. Was hoping to grab some quick input from you all. The most obvious issue is the price!

I told him 7k max and even then its too high. But maybe someone from the area would suggest otherwise.

- The color, 5-speed w. the locker, and the fact that it is a 2-owner all drive the price up.
- The lack of maintenance history (appears to be purchased at auction by the current seller) and mileage bring the price down.

The bias on my end is that mine is also a 5-speed so it would be that much cooler if his were too.

My brothers bias? The thing is rad so who can blame him for being interested?

Thanks in advance!

I would sit down with him and make a list of things he can reasonably expect will be needed for a 3rd Gen with 223k miles and little service history. Timing belt, radiator, exhaust(?), clutch, brakes, etc. Once you come up with that list and the pricing, then he can more wisely decide if the total cost (purchase plus maintenance) is agreeable to him. If not, he can bid accordingly.

 

[raKnizek]

Some really great feedback already. Thanks guys! Good to know we're not far off in our thinking. I really appreciate the insight on pricing from similar vehicles

Well this is a pickle. You nailed the main points but I am curious why you mentioned "pink milkshake" for one with a manual...

I was just mentioning this as a general thing and that its one less thing to consider with the manual.

[MENTION=198376]4Runner4Leon[/MENTION]
The manual is not crucial. He has looked at some with the AT as well.

Although he wants to do some wheeling in the future the first thing he will use it for is towing his motorcycle to the track. The manual transmission is a positive here in my own experience.

[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION]
Great call on having it inspected. I wasn't able to drive it as I am in a CT but he said the transmission and clutch felt great and he has plenty of history driving manual vehicles.

 

[raKnizek]

I would sit down with him and make a list of things he can reasonably expect will be needed for a 3rd Gen with 223k miles and little service history. Timing belt, radiator, exhaust(?), clutch, brakes, etc. Once you come up with that list and the pricing, then he can more wisely decide if the total cost (purchase plus maintenance) is agreeable to him. If not, he can bid accordingly.

Great idea as well. And since I have done so much of this myself it should be pretty accurate! Not looking forward to adding up the cost though.

 

[BrianSD_42]

. It's ran for 220,000 so far.... If something was real bad it wouldn't have made it this far.

The thing is though, these trucks run fine every day for years THEN BREAK. It happens all the time and any user can simply scroll through the pages of the third Gen section and look at ALL the "help, my truck isn't running" threads just from the last few weeks and see for themselves.

Anyone who buys a 200k+ mileage car should completely accept that there is a real chance something serious could go wrong and set aside money for that rainy day. If you are buying used then consider it.

Maintenance is not cheap. Can he do his own timing belt and water pump? Does he know how or even have access to a garage? Does he have the $800 set aside to cover that after purchase?? Or the steering rack, or brakes, or Axel seals. .... $$$$$$$$$$$.

A reality for most high mileage 3rd gens is getting to go through ownership and having most of the things in the buyers guide breaking on you by 250k miles.

This vehicle has no maintenance history. Yay!!!

Here are some items I've done. They should sound familiar to most folks here. The costs run into the thousands.

[X] front brakes pads and calipers
[X] steering rack and outer TREs
[X] lower ball joints
[X] rear axle seals
[X] radiator
[X] spark plugs and wires
[X] timing belt and water pump
[X] valve cover gaskets

TRUST ME ---> if you buy a 220k mile 3rd Gen and these things have not been done yet they need to be done well before you hit $300k miles, at least if you are the kind of person who finds loose steering, failing brakes, really bad gas mileage or front wheels falling the f#ck off... VERY ANNOYING.

:yo:

I'm not trying to be negative. I've been an owner since 2001 and wouldn't change it for anything. I LOVE my truck and I can afford it.
.

 

[thennen]

Great idea as well. And since I have done so much of this myself it should be pretty accurate! Not looking forward to adding up the cost though.

Yeah, but once you have everything added up, you at least get the comfort of knowing that you've accounted for most of the 'surprises', and that your number is a good one. Best wishes!

 

[raKnizek]

The thing is though, these trucks run fine every day for years THEN BREAK. It happens all the time and any user can simply scroll through the pages of the third Gen section and look at ALL the "help, my truck isn't running" threads just from the last few weeks and see for themselves.

Anyone who buys a 200k+ mileage car should completely accept that there is a real chance something serious could go wrong and set aside money for that rainy day. If you are buying used then consider it.

Maintenance is not cheap. Can he do his own timing belt and water pump? Does he know how or even have access to a garage? Does he have the $800 set aside to cover that after purchase?? Or the steering rack, or brakes, or Axel seals. .... $$$$$$$$$$$.

A reality for most high mileage 3rd gens is getting to go through ownership and having most of the things in the buyers guide breaking on you by 250k miles.

This vehicle has no maintenance history. Yay!!!

Here are some items I've done. They should sound familiar to most folks here. The costs run into the thousands.

[X] front brakes pads and calipers
[X] steering rack and outer TREs
[X] lower ball joints
[X] rear axle seals
[X] radiator
[X] spark plugs and wires
[X] timing belt and water pump
[X] valve cover gaskets

TRUST ME ---> if you buy a 220k mile 3rd Gen and these things have not been done yet they need to be done well before you hit $300k miles, at least if you are the kind of person who finds loose steering, failing brakes, really bad gas mileage or front wheels falling the f#ck off... VERY ANNOYING.

:yo:

I'm not trying to be negative. I've been an owner since 2001 and wouldn't change it for anything. I LOVE my truck and I can afford it.
.

Not negative at all. Very valid points. The good thing is the timing belt was done in 2017 - roughly 20k ago according to the seller. That being said, a 20 year old vehicle, 3rd gen 4runner or not is going to cost money to run. I have done everything in your list and then some. I am happy I did but it is something to be factored into the decision.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Sounds like he just needs to meet the guy at a mechanic shop, check for rust and other things then reach a price. Best of luck! Don't pay top dollar!

 

[sawguy]

Why would a runner that looks that nice be purchased at an auction? That's a retail piece for a dealer unless something is wrong with it. ODO numbers aren't lined up very well...hmmm

 

[raKnizek]

Why would a runner that looks that nice be purchased at an auction? That's a retail piece for a dealer unless something is wrong with it. ODO numbers aren't lined up very well...hmmm

What do you mean by the numbers not being lined up? Physically? Looks like it’s about to change from a 9 to a 0 in the pic meaning that 6 is about to be a 7.

 

[thennen]

Maybe I'm missing something, but the listed VIN is only 16 digits long. Should be 17. Maybe 3rd character should be a 3? Yep, went to Shidt Automotive, JT3HN86R3W0165076. Sorry for the edits.

 

[thennen]

maybe i'm missing something, but the listed vin is only 16 digits long. Should be 17. Maybe 3rd character should be a 3? Yep, went to shidt automotive, jt3hn86r3w0165076. Sorry for the edits.

<shift automotive>

 

[4Runner4Leon]

The manual is not crucial. He has looked at some with the AT as well.

I don't know the CO market that well, but at least here in CA (which I think is overpriced for 4Runners, despite them all being rust free), this is way overpriced.

So if the 5 speed is not all that important, I'd not pay that kind of a premium. He can fly down to sunny (not today) CA and buy my '97 with less miles, COMPLETELY up to date on maintenance, I'll let it go for $8K ([MENTION=2959000]octanejunkie[/MENTION], you're not eligible ).

 

[BrianSD_42]

You also have to be cautious about all of the flood trucks from the multiple hurricanes to hit US in last 2 years that are crossing state lines and ending up at auctions.

 

[MaineRunna]

The thing is though, these trucks run fine every day for years THEN BREAK. It happens all the time and any user can simply scroll through the pages of the third Gen section and look at ALL the "help, my truck isn't running" threads just from the last few weeks and see for themselves.

Anyone who buys a 200k+ mileage car should completely accept that there is a real chance something serious could go wrong and set aside money for that rainy day. If you are buying used then consider it.

Maintenance is not cheap. Can he do his own timing belt and water pump? Does he know how or even have access to a garage? Does he have the $800 set aside to cover that after purchase?? Or the steering rack, or brakes, or Axel seals. .... $$$$$$$$$$$.

A reality for most high mileage 3rd gens is getting to go through ownership and having most of the things in the buyers guide breaking on you by 250k miles.

This vehicle has no maintenance history. Yay!!!

Here are some items I've done. They should sound familiar to most folks here. The costs run into the thousands.

[X] front brakes pads and calipers
[X] steering rack and outer TREs
[X] lower ball joints
[X] rear axle seals
[X] radiator
[X] spark plugs and wires
[X] timing belt and water pump
[X] valve cover gaskets

TRUST ME ---> if you buy a 220k mile 3rd Gen and these things have not been done yet they need to be done well before you hit $300k miles, at least if you are the kind of person who finds loose steering, failing brakes, really bad gas mileage or front wheels falling the f#ck off... VERY ANNOYING.

:yo:

I'm not trying to be negative. I've been an owner since 2001 and wouldn't change it for anything. I LOVE my truck and I can afford it.
.

I had a customer with a 2000 Avalon with 349k on it ask me if I knew anyone looking for a car because he finally had to replace the alternator and didn't consider the car reliable anymore. I looked up the book value and was surprised to find out that it was still worth $1500-$3000 private sale. He sold it to another customer of mine for $600 knowing that it could go another 100k or blow up the next day. Like you said, they run great until they don't.