Reuse head bolts

graeaglecrawler

New member
Is this right? I just bought a 4R and the previous owner just had the head gaskets done but it blew again after a slight over heat. I had a mechanic familiar with these engines and he pointed out that the heads look new or cleaned but the bolts are rusty and he guessed they were reused. Are they stretch ,TTY, bolts? The work was done in Reno, NV. I live in CA. Who do you complain to in Reno about a shop?
 
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That will be a tough one. You let it overheat.. so trying to prove which was the cause (overheat or shoddy work) will be impossible.

The 3vze design has a weak cooling channels, what causes it to blow HG's much more easily than most other vehicles. While your temp gauge is reading at the temp sensor only a "slight" overheat, there will be, by design, variants in the temperature.

As for reusing them... torquing them can lead to some stretching in. I know people who reuse them with 0 issue...

My personal guess?? The overheat caused it.
 
OK... This is debatable, some will say head bolts are TTY (torque to yield), some say this isn't true for toyota's.

I have never ran into head bolts that weren't TTY.

Head bolts should be replaced, it's good insurance.

Also it's possible that the block and heads weren't checked for warping.
 
I think the earlier comment about warp age is a really probable culprit. When I owned a 2nd gen 4runner, I did an insane amount of research on the notorious HG failure. I forget which cylinder it is, but one of them, possible 6th (don't quote me) was the one that was more prone than others, due to the internal engine cooling channels design. There was one section of the block that was prone to overheating faster than the others due to the cooling channel design; and it was also the section of the block that warped.


So. If they didn't address the warping and this engine has had several hg failures.. which it sounds like. Putting a new head gasket on will buy you a short time, until it blows again.
 
I forget which cylinder it is, but one of them, possible 6th

It is the #6. Due to how the exhaust crossing over the back of the engine and meets up with the driver side header, right behind the #6 cyl. It also has to do with the aluminum head on a cast block and how expand/contract differently to different temperatures.
 
It is the #6. Due to how the exhaust crossing over the back of the engine and meets up with the driver side header, right behind the #6 cyl. It also has to do with the aluminum head on a cast block and how expand/contract differently to different temperatures.

Yep. Once you overheat it once and get warping; new HG's will only last so long. It really is a block you have to watch and not let overheat the first time around.
 
Yea. So, why did you have a "slight overheat" that caused this?

So, this is where it gets tricky. Do you have the auto? If not and you have the manual, then my person suggestion is 2 fold. 1. Install a lower that oem thermostat. I believe spec is 190 (again, don't quote me; been about 5 years since I sold my 2nd gen so running off memory)...

but, if your engine is prone to overheating then you need to beef up your radiator and set your default temp lower. If spec is 190, move it down to 170 or 180.

If you have the AUTO transmission, you probably can't do this. That transmission is temp controlled. I found out the hard way, when I had change the thermostat. I didn't put in the oem and my tranny wouldn't shift into overdrive. I found out that it is temp controlled, and it has to be at just the right temperature for the ecu to let it shift into overdrive.

Install a new, better radiator. Make sure your fan works. Do everything you can to prevent it from overheating...
 

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