Ripcord's 2002 Sport Ed. Version 2.0

Haven't been active for a while and just saw that you got a taco. Awesome looking rig. Definitely following this one too.
 
As I mentioned in the previous post, I have added a host of new switches in preparation for an upcoming mod.

In the next few months I will be getting 4:88 gears and FR+RR ARB air lockers.

Here is the wiring diagram for my new switch setup.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149794382@N06/34670166604/in/album-72157682523525914/" title="Wiring Diagram Switches"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/34670166604_608e52325a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="706" alt="Wiring Diagram Switches"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

....

Thanks for the detailed diagram. I have a couple of questions if you get a moment.

1. It shows on your diagram that you are using the dash light circuit to power the led lights on the switches. Did you just tap any dash light wire (such as the ashtray light) or is there a main wire or fuse to tap into for dash lighting.

2. I see where you used the tap a fuse to get switched power to the relay, did you run the backfeed to the relay from the fuse box under the dash through the bulkhead connector or was it separate.

3. Finally, as for the positioning of the bulkhead connector, I bought the same one but I'm curious why you chose to come down through the top vs the firewall where the clutch pedal normally would be? It seems easier to use your location but I was concerned it might be more prone to water intrusion. Did you ever have any issues?

Thanks!
 
What an amazing thread!! Will definitely be referencing this thread once we find a Gen2 to modify in a similar fashion. Just getting started on our search for a clean somewhat stock one or a well done build like yours to just buy and bypass the process. Any tips on where we can look would be most appreciated! Well done! Wow.
 
|April 3, 2016|

The FMU is divided into two, independently powered and independently operating units.. The sunroof/maplight controls and the FMU itself. This will be part 2.

Part 1: Sunroof/ Maplight controls swap
Part 2: Field Monitor Wiring/Install

=====================================

Time:
The wiring portion took me 2 hours, but this is the second one I have installed..

Procedure:
The goal for this section is to find a proper home for the wires from the Field Monitor Unit itself.


Here is the diagram for the wires on the white FMU plug:
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The following wiring directions involve following the wire colors on the blue plug.
An important note however is that the colors of the wires change depending on what side of the plug you are on. This is the Console side of the plug:
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And this is the Vehicle side of the plug:
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From [MENTION=5602]Rock Slide[/MENTION]'s write up. (with additions by myself)
Field Monitor:
1. Blue/Yellow wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Gray wire on the console side of the Blue plug [Blue/Yellow wire on the vehicle side]. (full-time power)
2. White/Red wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Red wire on the Console side of the Blue Plug [Blue/Red wire on the Vehicle side]. (ignition power)
3. White/Black wire coming off the female end of the White Plug (this wire also could also be Gray), taps into the Black/Red on the console side of the Blue Plug [White/Black/Gray on the vehicle side]. (GROUND)
Clock:
4. Green wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Green # 3 wire on the back of the clock in the dash.
(I taped into the solid Green wire coming off the back of the dash light dimmer knob)
Temp Sensor:
5. Blue wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, connects to your Air Temp Sensor. (This Sensor needs to be installed behind the front bumper. It contains 2 wires. See next step for second wire connection.)
6. Yellow/Black wire coming off the female end of the White Plug connects to your Air Temp Sensor.
Speed Sensor:
7. Green/Orange wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Grey/Blue wire located at the ABS Unit.


Spliced into blue plug according to the above instructions.
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Connect longer wire to the remaining 4 wires (2 for temp sensor, speed sensor, Dimmer).
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Use a hangar and make a hook to pull the wires through the headliner. You will need to remove the visor and A-pillar trim for this.
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Then make sure the wires stay on the inside of the headliner and run them down the A-Pillar.
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For the dimmer.. As mentioned above, I cut into the green wire on the back of the dash dimmer knob.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149794382@N06/35347573052/in/album-72157685365200766/" title="20160403-IMG_1436"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4218/35347573052_afbed1def2_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="20160403-IMG_1436"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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Now for the speed sensor, we need to find the speed sensor wire in the ABS ECU. Here is a diagram of the back of the ABS unit. For 99+ 4runners it is located under the driver's dash, next to the brake pedal. The Blue/Grey speed sensor wire is in the V18 plug, it should be number 16 on that plug.
Just remember that it is the only Blue/Grey wire on the entire ABS unit..
View attachment 198700

Blue/Grey speed sensor wire located. (The other red wires are for the Andymod, ignore those)
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Ran wires to the temp sensor through the firewall and the engine bay along the drivers side.
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Final Product! (with some LED modifications listed below)
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I know this is an old post but it's one of the most detailed on the forums regarding the install...
In regards to the temp sensor, does polarity matter? Or can the wires be connected to either post? I've yet to see anyone actually label either of these leads beyond their colors; as positive or negative
To that effect, how does one suffice if they bought the sensor new and are lacking the pigtail? I could ONLY find new, in box sensors; is there a way to source the female end? Again, nobody seems to mention what to do here - just "do it", and I feel like there HAS to be a solution seeing posts like this which mention using a new sensor, but stop there.
TIA, sorry for the hijack
 
In regards to the temp sensor, does polarity matter? Or can the wires be connected to either post? I've yet to see anyone actually label either of these leads beyond their colors; as positive or negative
To that effect, how does one suffice if they bought the sensor new and are lacking the pigtail? I could ONLY find new, in box sensors; is there a way to source the female end? Again, nobody seems to mention what to do here - just "do it", and I feel like there HAS to be a solution seeing posts like this which mention using a new sensor, but stop there.
TIA, sorry for the hijack
The temp sensor is a non-polarized variable resistor. Either pin to either location will work fine.

-Charlie
 
So now, this far in.. How are you liking your transition from 4runner to Tacoma? Do you miss having an SUV? Or, would you do it again?
 

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