Rola roof rack question
- Thread starter GX4SEVEND
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GhostRing
Member
I believe you can, but keep in mind the u bolts will now in constant tension and the plastic
inserts are no longer distributing the load optimally. I am finding the OEM crossbars are
the weakest link in the system. On washboard or rough road, I can feel - and see, the
rack bouncing and flexing the roof skin. I think if the rack (any rack) is more secured directly
to the roof tracks, the better.
inserts are no longer distributing the load optimally. I am finding the OEM crossbars are
the weakest link in the system. On washboard or rough road, I can feel - and see, the
rack bouncing and flexing the roof skin. I think if the rack (any rack) is more secured directly
to the roof tracks, the better.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
Ive been working on my Rola rack off and on for a couple months. I chose not to buy the extension but make my own from electrical conduit. I chopped the front end off the rola rack with a sawzall. It will leave a gap above your sunroof so you could access things on the rack if need be or just an unhindered view. However, I did it for none of the reasons listed above. I was looking for a custom length because one extension is slightly too short and two extensions are too long.
To bring it tighter to the roof I removed the factory crossbars and made some bolts that fit in the track. From the same section in home depot beside the conduit I used metal framing channel and cut it to length for the crossbars. It will lay across the edges of the factory roofrack tracks with about 1mm clearance in the center of the roof. I opted to use spacers I made from some thick rubber I had on hand just to clear the roof better. I also thought about putting a slight bend in the crossbars and will if the rubber spacers don't work as planned.
UT Hack
New member
Pics? I'm trying to lower mine as well.. This seems like a great option to do that and strengthen the rack at the same time.
tre9er
New member
I mounted my Curt rack my own way, right to the stock tracks, NOT on the upper cross beams. The Curt rack was the right width to line up, for the most part, with the stock tracks.
I simply removed the cross beams completely (have to remove front or rear end piece of track, then slide out), then removed the rubber finger bolts from the lower sliding cross pieces (that sit flush on the roof).
Then I drilled the holes where I wanted, 6 total. I had to drill at a slight angle to get them where the bolt would come down into the cleats because the Curt was *just* not quite the exact same width as the tracks. I used zinc bolts from ACE, I think the longest metric they had (M6 bolts sound right?), 1.5 or 2" in length. I think they're a 10 or 12MM head, hell I can't remember. Anyway it took some doing to get them to thread into the cleats, but the finished product is the rack sits just a few MM above the roof.
I mounted the rack so the lower sliding cross pieces helped to suspend it off the sheet metal, but I also put some split vinyl tubing over the bottom tubes of the rack so that if it does flex down and touch metal, it won't scratch anything.
I'll post some pics in a minute, let me run outside and take some. OK, guess it's time to use PhotoBucket...hold on
I simply removed the cross beams completely (have to remove front or rear end piece of track, then slide out), then removed the rubber finger bolts from the lower sliding cross pieces (that sit flush on the roof).
Then I drilled the holes where I wanted, 6 total. I had to drill at a slight angle to get them where the bolt would come down into the cleats because the Curt was *just* not quite the exact same width as the tracks. I used zinc bolts from ACE, I think the longest metric they had (M6 bolts sound right?), 1.5 or 2" in length. I think they're a 10 or 12MM head, hell I can't remember. Anyway it took some doing to get them to thread into the cleats, but the finished product is the rack sits just a few MM above the roof.
I mounted the rack so the lower sliding cross pieces helped to suspend it off the sheet metal, but I also put some split vinyl tubing over the bottom tubes of the rack so that if it does flex down and touch metal, it won't scratch anything.
I'll post some pics in a minute, let me run outside and take some. OK, guess it's time to use PhotoBucket...hold on
Last edited:
EatonKyleH
New member
I cut out the width of the factory crossbars into the bottom of the factory mounts/spacers so they sit around the bars instead of just on top. Then I took 1/2 inch sheet rubber and made mounts under the bars to utilize the the factory hardware. Its a bit hard to explain and I haven't seen it done this way before but I love it. About 1.3 inches of drop and the factory cross bars sit level with the tops of the roof basket bars which I love for securing heavy items. Take a look at my build thread and if you like what you see I'll make it a point to take it apart and get you some pictures.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
I'll try to get some pics of the parts I made for this to work. The only thing not finished are the rubber spacers.
Checking out your build thread to see if I want to change what I have done so far.
