Rough Country 3" lift thoughts

[G_Raw]

I purchased the Rough Country 3” lift kit with the front struts & spacers as well as Rear shocks & springs. I also got the FREEDOM OFF-ROAD UCA’s that have the Upper ball join. These are supposed to correct the angles that change when this lift is installed…

I am having issues with my sway bar hitting my tie rod ends and I’ve just noticed a torn tie rod end boot. I got some spacers to drop the sway bar down a little but I think I need longer sway bar end links maybe?

Also I’m wondering if I need to get some different control arms perhaps longer?

Sort of different question. Changed most of my front end components during this process due to the high miles. 250,000mi made it hard to justify putting these things back on knowing that they were all in the well used range.
Anyways I replaced both front axles in this process and after nearly 1500miles of driving I’ve looked under there to re-assess things.
I have found the axles have a gap between the INBOARD JOINT TULIP and the differential. With the wheels off I can using only my hand strength, I am able to create some side to side movement of close to 1/4 inch of play there… I’m thinking, this is not up to factory specs. Any input to the questions I’ve brought up summarized below will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time in helping me with these puzzlers

1) needing longer sway bar end links w suggested place to find them.
2) needing upgraded/ longer rear control arms w suggested place to find them
3) Front Cv axle situation.


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1)Look up Mike Studt on here. He makes some bomb proof sway links. Or you can buy my set I have from him (there his first gen production). I don't use my sways anymore.

2) If you're 2wd like OP just get rear control arms off a stock 4x4 4runner as they are longer than the 2wd ones. That will be your cheapest and likely to correct your driveline situation you may be experiencing post lift. If it doesn't or you're already a 4x4 then use Rokmen or OptOffroad for extendable rear arms. IF you aren't having driveline issues after the lift don't mess with rear arms as this starts to change your diff flange and driveline angles and will cause vibrations. SO if you don't know what you're doing and don't have issues...don't touchy.

3) there is the ability to move the CV's by hand to some degree. How much I can't recall as it depends on many factors... vehicle put together and on the ground, on jacks with wheels on, on jacks with wheels off, on jacks with suspension parts loosened...etc

 

[octanejunkie]

Did you fully seat the CVs when installing them? If not you'd be leaking diff fluid...

There is some play in the inner joint/sleeve, the boot actually restricts excess play because the inside needs to move in and out freely. I don't run stock CVs but 1/4" total (1/8" per side, play) may not be excessive.

Yes you need extended sway bar endlinks if you lifted 3" front and back. You also need an extended rear brake hose.

You can move your front end links to the back and either buy 1st Gen rear endlinks to install up front or buy aftermarket extended, like Mike Studt's, Opt Offroad sells them for $190 a pair

 

[4meI4run4fun]

What didn't you like about the RC 3 inch suspension lift?