Sorry you didn't find what you needed in the sticky.
What kinda issues are you facing? Your truck must be a lemon because Chrysler and Toyota should never be mentioned in the same sentence.
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] would freak out at your comparison. Lol.
We frequent the forums daily, and electrical issues seldom come up on 3rd gens.
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Well I'm not 100% where to start so here it goes: I am a jeep man for life, love a good straight axle leaf sprung sub 100" WB open cab whip to daily drive, but it's not for everyone. (She especially hates being caught in the rain)
My woman needed a set of wheels to endure the local roads, but still have 4 doors and an smooth ride. She wanted a 05-10 jeep grandCherokee and wish now we had gone that way, but long story made short this toyota is for the lady to drive so it needs to be a+ 100 top notch.
Here in the mountains of tennessee 4runners, jeeps, 4x4 pickups go for thousands more than 2 hours away in town. Having looked at several 200k/+ mile 4rnr for $7-10k we found a very budget friendly
1999 toyota 4runner limited for $3k. So this thing is not all bad, it was owned by a young female that kept the oil changed and came from a local toyota dealer 4 years ago. Maintenance was done at firestone and it came with 4000 mile old michelins and a 2 month/1500 mile old oil change valvoline sticker on the windshield. Her story was as soon as she paid it off it needed thousands in repairs and had already purchase a GM tahoe which she was driving.
Lots of small repairs were needed and I have been at it in all my off time.
First repair was to solder the forward reward control boards wires back onto the proper locations. I got the seat moving where I could fit and the Ms can reach, but I still need the button covers. From here I sewed the seat seams and rips up with hobby store waxed thread and a needle, but I have yet to rub them down with oil. The center console was loose so I cut a piece of coat hanger and fixed the lid and cut and drilled some flat stock to bolt the entire piece back to the transmission tunnel.
So I put some new fuses in and the map lights, radio, and A/C all work. Windshield wipers make seeing easier, Check engine light says bank 1 lean. I also repaired the unsafe brakes with a new wheel cylinder, a couple springs, 1 adjustment bolt, refurbed shoes and pads, and turn drums n disc. My Rack and pinion is shot. I am still collecting part numbers for the rebuild including guide, but I may just say screw it and get the Napa unit with new inner tie rods.
So here is where it gets questionable, I have read on many others having the same issues. Door ajar light was on only when running till I fiddled with busted DVD player and dome wiring (does the switch go on pass or driver side of the dome light over head for the doors??) , and reset the ECU with a disconnected battery over night. Now the light stays on running or not. I only assume I have power running back through a ground somewhere. :dizzy: I am not the best electrical guy.
Since door ajar, she can't lock her doors as the vehicle thinks the door is open.
Also check engine light is back after 15 miles of running on its face compared to before but I got some MAF sensor cleaner and as soon as I wrap this paper on the 4runner up I am getting on attempting to rid myself of the check engine light.
There are several other trinkets needing fixed. Whatever is wrong with the diff-lock must be in the axle itself, the prior owner didn't even notice it for 4 years and I thought it was only a toyota feel-good like ect power at the time of purchase, lol but I came home a read up that its a legit locker. :noidea:
So this kinda lit a fire under my ass and now I want to like this vehicle but it's awfully hard. Just need them repairs done so the woman won't not be riding a hoopty or brutis the YJ. :rofl:
