RTMR Questions/On-going Thread

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

I think it's finally time for me to get a power distribution build started.

This will be a thread that discusses all of the electrical add-ons that I plan on adding as well as their subsequent questions (and hopefully answers). Ive done alot of research so far but I know I have a lot ahead of me and I figured I would make this the central hub for all of that. Hopefully some find it valuable as I feel this my upgrades would be a popular course of action for many out there.

So far I only have ditch lights for an electrical accessory. I plan on adding a roof light bar when I get a [MENTION=413201]SherpaEquipmentCo[/MENTION] rack, and then later on I may end up getting a [MENTION=320865]Victory 4x4[/MENTION] front bumper and will have a led bar there as well. Other than lights, I will probably have an ARB compressor under the hood so I would like to reserve space for that as well. As far as electrical accessories go that should be it for me.

I looked around for a power distribution system that would fit the bill, and the Bussmann RTMR that a lot of people seem to use stood out as the best/most value option.

I then started looking for how to mount this RTMR and came across the PowerTrays company. After looking on his website I couldn't find anything that would work exactly for me. I reached out to Maverick (the owner) and asked him about a solution that would work for what I had in mind. He responded with some info and pictures about a new tray that hasn't been published on the website yet, but is supposed to fit in a 4th gen and accommodate a RTMR. I have yet to receive it as I only just purchased yesterday, but the pictures look very promising and I can't wait to put my hands on it!

As far as the RTMR goes, I think I will end up making my own based off of the Bodenzord Tutorial here . The reason I'll be making my own is simple, if I were to buy one of the pre-made ones on ebay I would still need the similar tools, connectors, and misc parts for the rest of the system such as the quick disconnects, switches etc...Plus I plan on offering these for sale if I enjoy building them and may even have pre-made switches set up for them as well.

Questions

I need at least 3 blank switch spots for the LEDs and possibly a 4th for the compressor. I currently have a USB charger/radio connection in the spot where my DAC used to be (it's now just floating around under where it used to live because I never used it but didn't want to permanently delete it). This configuration leaves me with 2 extra blanks to use on the center console area since I have a limited with the heated seats. I also have a blank on the side of my dash between the center diff lock and the RSCA switch.

My question is, I never use RSCA and don't ever think I will. Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't just do the same thing the the RSCA that I did to the DAC and free up the extra blank switch spot that I need?

Also does anyone out there even use RSCA?? I was in some pretty off-camber situation in Uwharrie this weekend and didn't have air bags go off, so if they didn't go then I'm not sure they ever will unless I actually do flip, and in that case I would like the air bags to kick on haha...

 

[BendRunner]

I think it's finally time for me to get a power distribution build started.

This will be a thread that discusses all of the electrical add-ons that I plan on adding as well as their subsequent questions (and hopefully answers). Ive done alot of research so far but I know I have a lot ahead of me and I figured I would make this the central hub for all of that. Hopefully some find it valuable as I feel this my upgrades would be a popular course of action for many out there.

So far I only have ditch lights for an electrical accessory. I plan on adding a roof light bar when I get a [MENTION=413201]SherpaEquipmentCo[/MENTION] rack, and then later on I may end up getting a [MENTION=320865]Victory 4x4[/MENTION] front bumper and will have a led bar there as well. Other than lights, I will probably have an ARB compressor under the hood so I would like to reserve space for that as well. As far as electrical accessories go that should be it for me.

I looked around for a power distribution system that would fit the bill, and the Bussmann RTMR that a lot of people seem to use stood out as the best/most value option.

I then started looking for how to mount this RTMR and came across the PowerTrays company. After looking on his website I couldn't find anything that would work exactly for me. I reached out to Maverick (the owner) and asked him about a solution that would work for what I had in mind. He responded with some info and pictures about a new tray that hasn't been published on the website yet, but is supposed to fit in a 4th gen and accommodate a RTMR. I have yet to receive it as I only just purchased yesterday, but the pictures look very promising and I can't wait to put my hands on it!

As far as the RTMR goes, I think I will end up making my own based off of the Bodenzord Tutorial here . The reason I'll be making my own is simple, if I were to buy one of the pre-made ones on ebay I would still need the similar tools, connectors, and misc parts for the rest of the system such as the quick disconnects, switches etc...Plus I plan on offering these for sale if I enjoy building them and may even have pre-made switches set up for them as well.

Questions

I need at least 3 blank switch spots for the LEDs and possibly a 4th for the compressor. I currently have a USB charger/radio connection in the spot where my DAC used to be (it's now just floating around under where it used to live because I never used it but didn't want to permanently delete it). This configuration leaves me with 2 extra blanks to use on the center console area since I have a limited with the heated seats. I also have a blank on the side of my dash between the center diff lock and the RSCA switch.

My question is, I never use RSCA and don't ever think I will. Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't just do the same thing the the RSCA that I did to the DAC and free up the extra blank switch spot that I need?

Also does anyone out there even use RSCA?? I was in some pretty off-camber situation in Uwharrie this weekend and didn't have air bags go off, so if they didn't go then I'm not sure they ever will unless I actually do flip, and in that case I would like the air bags to kick on haha...

I am getting a switch pro 8100 installed this week. Parts list includes:

-Switch pro 8100
-Blue Sea Systems Common 150A 10-Gang BusBar with Cover
-Blue Sea Systems 30A - 8 Circuit Terminal Block
-Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
-Bussmann (BP/CB185-100) 100 Amp Circuit Breaker
-power wires and spade connectors custom made by a friend of mine doing the install.

I went with this route myself as I got the SP for about $300. No more running wires through the firewall, and all the switches in one spot. This is a simple foolproof solution for me that doesn't have a ton of electrical experience. The DIY guys the bussman route seems like a great idea as well.

Yes, I do use my RSCA. I have heard of the airbags going off and it being an expensive fix. That is one feature I am grateful to have on my 06. Sure, just unplug the DAC and go on with your day. I never use that either.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I am getting a switch pro 8100 installed this week. Parts list includes:

-Switch pro 8100
-Blue Sea Systems Common 150A 10-Gang BusBar with Cover
-Blue Sea Systems 30A - 8 Circuit Terminal Block
-Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
-Bussmann (BP/CB185-100) 100 Amp Circuit Breaker
-power wires and spade connectors custom made by a friend of mine doing the install.

I went with this route myself as I got the SP for about $300. No more running wires through the firewall, and all the switches in one spot. This is a simple foolproof solution for me that doesn't have a ton of electrical experience. The DIY guys the bussman route seems like a great idea as well.

Yes, I do use my RSCA. I have heard of the airbags going off and it being an expensive fix. That is one feature I am grateful to have on my 06. Sure, just unplug the DAC and go on with your day. I never use that either.

Why are you getting the fuse block? The Switchpros have a fuse inline on the battery cable to protect the entire system, and each circuit is protected by individual mosfets. This is what Switchpros told me and that no other fuses were necessary.

I only use the terminal block with mine, and even that isn't necessary or recommended by Switchpros.

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

I am getting a switch pro 8100 installed this week. Parts list includes:

-Switch pro 8100
-Blue Sea Systems Common 150A 10-Gang BusBar with Cover
-Blue Sea Systems 30A - 8 Circuit Terminal Block
-Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
-Bussmann (BP/CB185-100) 100 Amp Circuit Breaker
-power wires and spade connectors custom made by a friend of mine doing the install.

I went with this route myself as I got the SP for about $300. No more running wires through the firewall, and all the switches in one spot. This is a simple foolproof solution for me that doesn't have a ton of electrical experience. The DIY guys the bussman route seems like a great idea as well.

Yes, I do use my RSCA. I have heard of the airbags going off and it being an expensive fix. That is one feature I am grateful to have on my 06. Sure, just unplug the DAC and go on with your day. I never use that either.

Yeah the 9100 seems like a great option! I'm trying to stay pretty cheap for this part of the build though since I'll have minimal electric accessories. I don't have a ton of electrical experience currently either but I am hoping to use this as a learning experience so I can start making these in the future in a more customizable configuration that what is available now. Custom switches, installation for people near me etc...

I should only have one grouping of wire to go through the firewall as well to my knowledge so it should be pretty clean especially with some split loom etc..

Also out of curiosity when do you find yourself using RSCA?

 

[Bumbo]

I talked to SwitchPro not more than a week ago and was told this the 8100 is end of life and they won’t even warranty new purchases of that product. Something to take into consideration.

I do like the 9100 improvement over the previous models which I feel are worth the added expense. The phone application for programming and control is great, and the external switching for various control options is pretty rad.

I also agree with deleting the individual circuit fusing… it’s not really necessary because the unit is going to remove power to the load if it exceeds the user defined threshold. Its provide adequate protection for shorts or overload conditions… and appears to react fast enough that the fuse would be sitting there doing nothing other than adding additional line resistance for no reason.

The only thing you really need to worry about is surge currents from startup for items like air compressors. In those instances, you still have to use an external relay.

 

[BendRunner]

Why are you getting the fuse block? The Switchpros have a fuse inline on the battery cable to protect the entire system, and each circuit is protected by individual mosfets. This is what Switchpros told me and that no other fuses were necessary.

I only use the terminal block with mine, and even that isn't necessary or recommended by Switchpros.

Going with the fuse block to wire in full time power that I don't want connected to the SP. CB, eventually fridge/ham radio.

Also out of curiosity when do you find yourself using RSCA?

Mainly when wheeling. I read somewhere TrailasauresLex? (Something like that) had his go off while wheeling after falling off of an obstacle and coming down hard on one wheel. IIRC the system doesn't completely disable the system it just adds to the angle that the vehicle can be it before they deploy. Can anyone else comment on this?

I talked to SwitchPro not more than a week ago and was told this the 8100 is end of life and they won’t even warranty new purchases of that product. Something to take into consideration.

I do like the 9100 improvement over the previous models which I feel are worth the added expense. The phone application for programming and control is great, and the external switching for various control options is pretty rad.

I also agree with deleting the individual circuit fusing… it’s not really necessary because the unit is going to remove power to the load if it exceeds the user defined threshold. Its provide adequate protection for shorts or overload conditions… and appears to react fast enough that the fuse would be sitting there doing nothing other than adding additional line resistance for no reason.

The only thing you really need to worry about is surge currents from startup for items like air compressors. In those instances, you still have to use an external relay.

The 8100 allows for phone programming and bluetooth function as well. I doubt mine will come with a warranty, bought it new off a forum member here that has had it sitting around for a few years. Should have mentioned the fuse block will be separate from the SP system. A friend and I will be going through and redoing wiring so I won't ever have to do this again, and it will be dead simple to hook up new accessories and keep it all organized.

For $312 shipped, I'm fine losing the extra 20 amps, RGB and dimming. If I was considering paying close to full price for 8100, I would certainly just go with the 9100.

Some more differences from another forum

"The SP8100 switches have pre set trip points for each circuit while the 9100 are adjustable through the app. The 9100 can set switches to strobe or flash function while the 8100 cant. The 8100 has one harness plug into the 'brain' while the 9100 has 2 (one for the switch outputs, and a separate for the button panel). The 8100 has all red wires for the outputs while the 9100 has different color leads for each switch. The 8100 has a set backlight color (mine is red) while 9100 is changeable through the app.

Both have bluetooth function to turn switches on/off through phone. Both have 8 outputs. "

 

[Bumbo]

Perhaps I wasn’t as brushed up as I should have been to make the comparison… sounds like you have it well thought out.

I also agree about not having to run everything thought the SP, especially items like fridge and ham radio… those items typically would be better suited connected in a traditional manner.

For the savings, you can get a lot of additional electrical items done.

If I may make one additional recommendation... I would add a Blue Sea m-LVD
m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect - Blue Sea Systems

It's a programmable low voltage disconnect... it feels my AUX panel and has saved me on multiple occasions where I wanted to leave on persistent loads like fridge or outlets. Just another saftey net to protect your battery investment. I've had it for years and its worked out great. (located between my battery and fuse block)

 

[Whytey]

I currently have a Bussman RTMR fuse box mounted on a Powertray in my 07 V8. I have a 100amp circuit breaker mounted on the powertray as well.
On the underside I have two busbars beside the RTMR.

In the next couple weeks/month I am going to be selling the complete package as I have maxed out the relays available on this unit and need something with more individual relays. I will be going with a SwitchPro 9100.

I got the RTMR off of eBay from a guy who makes them for Toyota's and Jeeps. I installed weather pack connectors on the ends as well. This unit worked exactly as I needed to but I am looking forward to a few of the bonus features the Switchpro 9100 will have.

I am currently trying to find a solution to mounting the 9100 vertically (required for warranty so water does not get into the connector.)

 

[Bumbo]

[MENTION=143805]Whytey[/MENTION]

I like the work on the weather pack connectors.

Can’t tell who makes those… doesn’t really look like Delphi or Deutsch?

 

[BendRunner]

Perhaps I wasn’t as brushed up as I should have been to make the comparison… sounds like you have it well thought out.

I also agree about not having to run everything thought the SP, especially items like fridge and ham radio… those items typically would be better suited connected in a traditional manner.

For the savings, you can get a lot of additional electrical items done.

If I may make one additional recommendation... I would add a Blue Sea m-LVD
m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect - Blue Sea Systems

It's a programmable low voltage disconnect... it feels my AUX panel and has saved me on multiple occasions where I wanted to leave on persistent loads like fridge or outlets. Just another saftey net to protect your battery investment. I've had it for years and its worked out great. (located between my battery and fuse block)

Interesting, I did not think of that. I am going to be switching to an x2 27f here when I can find an upgrade. Bought the truck in October last year and it has a AAA battery with a 6/18 date on it. Already getting corrosion on the J hooks. Dual battery one day is something I'd be interested in. That and or solar. For the time being, I think this setup will serve me well. I usually am not parked for more than 24hrs at a time. I've thought about adding a noco starter to the kit for good measure.

 

[Bumbo]

Interesting, I did not think of that. I am going to be switching to an x2 27f here when I can find an upgrade. Bought the truck in October last year and it has a AAA battery with a 6/18 date on it. Already getting corrosion on the J hooks. Dual battery one day is something I'd be interested in. That and or solar. For the time being, I think this setup will serve me well. I usually am not parked for more than 24hrs at a time. I've thought about adding a noco starter to the kit for good measure.

This could make a low voltage disconnect even more important for your installation... Having something like this would ensure your accessory loads do not leave you without power to start the vehical again.

The starter is great to have, but running the battery flat also expedite degradation and reduces service life.

You can set the disconnect voltage anywhere between 12.1v to 11.3v which is just about 10% state of charge. I typically cut-off at about 50% SoC.

 

[Whytey]

[MENTION=143805]Whytey[/MENTION]

I like the work on the weather pack connectors.

Can’t tell who makes those… doesn’t really look like Delphi or Deutsch?

I believe they were Delphi Metri-Pack connectors. Purchased them on Ebay in kits as I could not locate elsewhere.

 

[JuniorPigeon]

I can't take any credit for the way my power/accessories are setup, but I gotta tell you I love it. I think the previous owner nailed it in the bang for the buck category. Super clean, super convenient. I've yet to add any of my own pieces to it but it's definitely to come. Here's the post in his build thread:

Blackoutt's 2007 Limited V8 Adventure Build Thread

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

Ended up purchasing [MENTION=143805]Whytey[/MENTION]'s rtmr setup he posted above. This will work perfectly for my setup. I'm stoked to be able to turn on my ditch lights haha and my future lightbar.

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

Does anyone know of a on-off-on (dpdt) rocker switch that will fit the standard toyota switch spot??

I will be running a dual function amber/white light bar like this
43" Amber/White Dual Function LED Bar– Cali Raised LED
but I do not want to have to run 2 switches to control it because I am limited on switch spots. I would like to wire it to one switch that can turn on just amber or have the whole thing turn on. But I would like to retain the function of amber by itself. Hence the need for this specific switch.

Any ideas??

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

Do carling switches fit in the stock spots? I have seen their name thrown around alot.

 

[gfxcruncher]

Do carling switches fit in the stock spots? I have seen their name thrown around alot.

I put a a carling winch power switch in one of the spare spots to the left of the steering wheel by the diff lock etc.. I had to enlarge it a little, just in the back where the tabs click in.

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

I put a a carling winch power switch in one of the spare spots to the left of the steering wheel by the diff lock etc.. I had to enlarge it a little, just in the back where the tabs click in.

Got any pics??