t4r4life
Elite Member
i wrote not for the fuel line.
Rusty fuel filter kicking my a$$
- Thread starter thor999
- Start date
i wrote not for the fuel line.
LittleCaesar
New member
Damn thor999,
It is the first time I have heard that Kroil does not work for rusted stuff. Then again, I am not in MN, way too cold for me (cousin lives outside of St. Paul though).
My last suggestion is to put it on a lift to get enough torque on it with the help of a cheater bar. Good luck.
It is the first time I have heard that Kroil does not work for rusted stuff. Then again, I am not in MN, way too cold for me (cousin lives outside of St. Paul though).
My last suggestion is to put it on a lift to get enough torque on it with the help of a cheater bar. Good luck.
Nelsonmd
New member
Since you can't use a torch on a fuel line, try a heat gun; you can boil gas as long as you don't ignite it. I found that out when I spilled gas on my still hot engine block on my motorcycle. Scared the piss out of me when I saw it fall down onto the block, but it just boiled furiously til gone.
I had a similar situation on my old runner. I ended up having to pick which side of the line to cut. Since toyota sold me the entire fuel filter to gas tank fuel line for 10 bucks.... I just cut the damn thing off. It WOULD not budge and I bought every rust tool/soak possible. Once I got one side unhooked, I took 2 vice grips and wrenched it off.
Replacing the fuel line ended up being a smart move. I realized quickly that the bolts in the filter were not the only part of my fuel line system rusting.
Had I not replaced the fuel line to the tank, I have no doubt I would of had to. very soon, and not at a time and location of my choosing.
My suggestion to you, as it is REALLY easy... replace the fuel filter, back to tank section. The rear tires kick up a lot of moisture, and that part of the truck likes to "hold" it in. When I pulled my original line out.... it was so brittle in some spots, I was able to puncture it with my nail.
ICK!
Replacing the fuel line ended up being a smart move. I realized quickly that the bolts in the filter were not the only part of my fuel line system rusting.
Had I not replaced the fuel line to the tank, I have no doubt I would of had to. very soon, and not at a time and location of my choosing.
My suggestion to you, as it is REALLY easy... replace the fuel filter, back to tank section. The rear tires kick up a lot of moisture, and that part of the truck likes to "hold" it in. When I pulled my original line out.... it was so brittle in some spots, I was able to puncture it with my nail.
ICK!
Diagram14
New member
I tried to replace my fuel filter 4 times over six months. Each time my wrench started to round I quit and re-soaked with PB (I would have used Kroil if I took the time to order it). P-oils will creep for a long time. When my flare nuts decided to come loose it didn't take much elbow-grease. If you got the patience the rust will break.
Gas is incredibly stable. Gas itself is NOT what is flammable. Fumes are what explode. First year Chem class in College. Take a glass of gas, put it under an industrial chem blower/vacumn to ensure all vapor is immediately removed and you can literally take flame and you can sit it there, all day.
Fumes must be present. When we talk about the proper fuel air mixture and the purpose of a carb or EFI injection system; all those are doing is taking liquid fuel and allowing it to move to gas phase appropriate for correct combustion.
ANYWAY. I actually wouldn't be too worried about "heat" to a solid fuel line. There is no vapor in the line, since the fuel pump brings it through under pressure. I am NOT saying you should experiment, just clarifying.
Nelsonmd
New member
Uh, yeah, we know about gasoline, and that is has to mix with oxygen to burn, but to say that there are NO fumes is a little naive. You lose pressure, get a little bit or air in the line, or have any kind of leak (like it just starting to come undone, and voila, you got fumes. I have heard of marine welders welding fuel tanks with fuel still in them (usually diesel, not gasoline), and more power to them, but if you take a torch to your fuel line, you are asking for a vehicle fire. It's best to assume that where there's gasoline, there's vapors, cause there probably are.
turbofreak
New member
Have you tried to tighten it first then loosen it? I know it sounds crazy but it has worked for me so many times. When I say tighten, I mean just try to snug it tighter just to see if the nut will move. KROIL is good stuff.
Socco
New member
I keep a can of this Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release in my service truck for particularly stubborn bolts. I've had good results with it. You could try slipping the two flare nut wrenches each into a chunk of pipe to get more leverage on it...
Wow, I need to check into why I am not receiving subscription notices!... OK sprayed fuel filter (and fore O2 sensor) religiously until Jan, then quit. (Cold out, no garage here) Reattempted both a few days ago and SUCCESS! I guess patience is key here... Already noticing better fuel economy!!! Also replaced my trailer hitch, pulled my running boards, oil change, and STILL found the time to strip out my front diff drain plug, all in the same day! :redbrick: (w/ help of course)
LittleCaesar
New member
Good to hear.
I would love to think it was the Kroil; I still know folks who swear by the stuff in the marine industry. Salt water, as others can attest as well, can do a number on metals.
I would love to think it was the Kroil; I still know folks who swear by the stuff in the marine industry. Salt water, as others can attest as well, can do a number on metals.
Qyota
New member
Just did this today. Last winter I was having issues getting the fittings loose using PB and regular open-end wrenches. So I gave up.
Today, I applied some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil (not the spray, the oil in the bottle). This stuff seemed to work better. I also used line wrenches this time. Worked great! Filter changed in about 10 minutes. Lost about 1 cup of fuel, all-told.
I'm going to try this Liquid Wrench oil elsewhere...maybe it's just me, but PB hasn't done much for me lately.
Today, I applied some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil (not the spray, the oil in the bottle). This stuff seemed to work better. I also used line wrenches this time. Worked great! Filter changed in about 10 minutes. Lost about 1 cup of fuel, all-told.
I'm going to try this Liquid Wrench oil elsewhere...maybe it's just me, but PB hasn't done much for me lately.
Loyal Toyota
New member
I'm changing mine tomorrow. I'm actually having the dealer do it since the bolts are a bit rusty and I only have the weekend to do it. I don't want to risk not having a functional vehicle. I do everything on my vehicle, but for $55, I think I'll pay for this one.
Food for thought.
Food for thought.
Do you need to remove the negative battery terminal? And is the filter going to leak a large amount of gas when you disconnect it(is it under pressure)?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Work on a cold car and crack the fuel cap the night before. There is some pressure that will be left in the forward line towards the engine, but the volume of gas is not huge. (You can run the engine dry but I preferred not to.)It's been a few years but I'm gonna say about two cups was all. Just crack the nuts and leave a pan there for a few minutes. Wear eye protection on this job, though. Very easy to get a drop of gas in the eyes and that is never good.
Probably a good idea to pull the power but I don't think I did.
Work on a cold car and crack the fuel cap the night before. There is some pressure that will be left in the forward line towards the engine, but the volume of gas is not huge. (You can run the engine dry but I preferred not to.)It's been a few years but I'm gonna say about two cups was all. Just crack the nuts and leave a pan there for a few minutes. Wear eye protection on this job, though. Very easy to get a drop of gas in the eyes and that is never good.
Probably a good idea to pull the power but I don't think I did.
Thanks for the info, but I already had it done by the time I read this post. For any one else, I would take out the two nuts that hold the bracket in first. That makes for an easier/cleaner/faster removal. Didn't crack the gas cap so I probably made this harder for myself.
