?'s about Lockers for 2nd Gen

SjamesT4R

New member
:banana:Hey everyone.. So I have been searching the forum for more information on Lockers but cant seem to find the disadvantages of lockers? how the ride is with lockers. Is it worth putting lockers on a weekend 4wheeling rig? how much stress does this put on other components? and the difference between lockers such as the detroit locker and the powertrax locker..
 
Register to hide this ad
No disadvantages.
Ride is the same except in corners.
DEFEINETLY WORTH IT!
I like Detroit. Again my opinion..
Alot of people say the selectable is the way to go. My opinion is the fewer the parts to engage and disengage the better. I've run Detroit’s in all my rigs (DD and non DD) and love them. Friends w/ ARB's and E-lockers tend to have issues from time to time (again these are my experiences).
People say that a full time locker will wear tires faster……… I call BS! I’ve put over 50k on BFG MT’s on two rigs that had Detroit lockers in them. Just rotate the tires every 5k.
 
I got an aussie locker for my rear axle last summer. It's pretty much the same thing as the powertrax your lookin at. What automaic lockers do is sit in your rear end and engage when the pinion pushes the two plates apart, locking it into place. So pretty much whenever you gas it or apply torque of any sort, it locks up our rear end. Lockers are great offroad because EVERYBODY has been in that situation where the 1 tire that has complete traction isn't doing JACK SH$T because the other one is spinning out of control. I noticed a HUGE difference with mine when I put the locker it, capability wise offroad. But if your gunna be driving on lightly snow covered streets.... you might die. As far as ride quality, whenever you take sharper turns, if you gas it you might hop a little bit or spin the tires. And when your making a turn you'll hear a click....click...click.click.click, which means the locker is doing what it's supposed to.

I definitely suggest getting a locker, especially an automatic one, if your on a tighter budget it's also better.

As far as putting it in the front or the back, I think it's probably better in the back because
1. I RARELY use 4wd anymore ;D
2. With a locker in the rear you're pushing more than pulling (front)
3. It'll get you OVER obstacles
4. Rear axles on ours are "tougher" than the front usually
5. And most importantly, you can do a real burnout, unless you have zero power and 15.5" wide tires that glue to the road (that's totally not me...)

This is a VERY opinionated topic, so do a little more research outside of t4r's site. And good luck!
 
:banana:Hey everyone.. So I have been searching the forum for more information on Lockers but cant seem to find the disadvantages of lockers? how the ride is with lockers. Is it worth putting lockers on a weekend 4wheeling rig? how much stress does this put on other components? and the difference between lockers such as the detroit locker and the powertrax locker..

Ok, so that's a lot of questions, with lots of answers, and lots of opinions too. A differential locker won't affect how the truck rides at all. The disadvantages come in how the truck steers - when a locker kicks in, it prevents your differential from acting like a differential, and that can be potentially dangerous depending on what your truck is doing at the time. The other disadvantage comes in noise - some lockers are very noisy, with lots of clicks and bangs as they engage and disengage. A special case is a locker in the front differential - a locker in the rear will sometimes scuff and chirp the tires when you're turning, a locker in the front will actually make it hard to turn when it engages, so there's that to think about too.

The differences between specific locker types - start with the selectables, like ARB, Eaton, Toyotas E-locker. These you can turn on and off at will, lots of folks prefer them for that reason, especially in your front differential. Then you've got the automatic lockers. These engage when they sense torque on the driveline, which basically means if you're on the skinny pedal, your rear tires are locked. Some are more forgiving than others and allow a small amount of torque before they engage, others lock up tight right away. Grizzly and Detroit are the strongest automatic lockers out there, built to take the abuse of extreme wheeling. Cheaper than those (and also weaker) are the "lunchbox" lockers, designed to be installed in your driveway without needing a professional to reset your ring and pinion. These are the Lockrite, Aussie, Spartan, and others. There's also limited slip devices, which aren't true lockers, but do add some traction benefits.

Still reading? Opinion time - I run a Spartan automatic in my rear and a TrueTrac limited slip in my front. I'm happy with the Spartan so far - it takes a little getting used to on the road, but it's definitely usable in a DD/weekend wheeler truck like mine. I like the LSD in front because it adds traction without placing as much stress on my precious CV shafts, and was cheaper than an ARB selectable. I might switch to an ARB in front once I won the lottery ;). Whether or not it's worth putting in a locker in a weekend wheeling rig is entirely up to you - if you're frequently getting stuck or lifting wheels and losing traction, maybe you need one. If you're not getting stuck, you don't need one.
 
Last edited:
Appreciate all your responses really helped me out alot alot of suggestions, and option that I do need to think about.. Im prob going to invest my money into a locker for sure because im the guy that gets stuck all the time lol trying to accomplish something everyone else goes around on a trail.

Im only putting a locker in the rear for right now, but my choices were pretty much locker or armor.. but Id rather go more places with a locker than purchase expensive armor I would like to learn how to build my self soon..

My budget is about $700 so ill prob go with a Detroit since your able to turn on and off at will like you said.. that would be great.. the ARB is outta my price range

Another ? for you guys that have installed your own... Im a mechanic but have never messed with the guts of an axel, never needed to .. how long does this usually take to install a Detroit locker? and are there any special tools required? Ill def have to watch some videos on it and make sure it gets done right though
 
My budget is about $700 so ill prob go with a Detroit since your able to turn on and off at will like you said.. that would be great.. the ARB is outta my price range

Another ? for you guys that have installed your own... Im a mechanic but have never messed with the guts of an axel, never needed to .. how long does this usually take to install a Detroit locker? and are there any special tools required? Ill def have to watch some videos on it and make sure it gets done right though

The Detroit is an automatic, you can't turn it on or off. Your options for a selectable are the ARB air locker, or the Eaton or Toyota elockers. ARB and Eaton are big bucks, the Toy elocker would cost less but require retrofitting and fab skills.

A Detroit or Grizzly locker requires special skills and tools, because you have to install the ring and pinion gears in your differential. If you're going to do this yourself, you want to be looking at what are called "lunchbox lockers" (Aussie, LockRite, Spartan) - they can be installed in your driveway with basic tools. Lunchboxes are also the cheapest (Spartans are $250 at Rockauto), giving you more flow to buy some sliders and a decent skid plate. :cheers:
 
No need to mess w/ the pinion gear if you're not re-gearing. I've done one in 3 hours. No real special tools needed on my part. I'm sure mechanics have some tools to help make it go faster, but you can do it w/ comin tools. Only special tool you will need is for checking the backlash, and the paint to make sure your depth on the ring gear is good.
Don’t be scared to do it.
 
You will be amazed at how much more capable your rig will be.
I rocked an 87 w/ a rear locker (Detroit) for many years and it did awesome!
 
I pretty much second everything KidV said--you WILL experience driving issues on the street with automatic (full-time) lockers, sometimes endangering your control of the vehicle on a snow or ice-covered road. A locker in the rear can be dealt with--you just learn moderation in corners, especially when accelerating from a stop. I highly discourage a full-time locker in the front, because it WILL mess with your steering and control. Lots of people suggest to leave the hubs unlocked (in other words, 2WD)--well what's the point of having 4WD if you can't safely engage it on a snowy road? As KidV mentioned, use a selectable locker (when you can afford one) or a limited slip in the front if you want to use it on pavement in the winter. Sticking a Detroit in the rear will give you tons of new traction (I typically don't even use 4WD on trails until I get to the hardcore stuff, because the locker gives me plenty of grip!).
 
ARB
ARB
ARB
ARB

or if you need to save money spartan is ok also for 250$ at rockauto.com
make sure if your going to do lockers front and rear then you should re gear also sense you will have them apart anyway. i recommend 5.29.
 
My truck is a weekend offroader only. And some joy riding around the neighbourhood. I have a welded rear so always locked so to speak. Probably the cheapest of all....except for the diff itself....

The shortest time it takes me to get to the trail is about 1hr to a max of about 2hrs drive on the highway. It is most noticeable when driving very slow like turning at a stop sign or parking in a parking lot. My tires are 12.5" wide. I think that might actually make it easier than if they were skinny 10.5" wide, since they do slide more on curves. My feeling anyway. Remember these are MT tires with lots of void, not corvette tires with lots of rubber to the ground. But knowing that it is always locked, that you are driving rear wheel drive, you just adapt your driving. It's almost a sporty drive if you will. I even drove on snow, never lost control. But I have with my AWD 4th gen.. hmmmm.... that being said, I wouldn't use it as a daily in winter being always locked in the rear. And I wouldn't use part time locker for a daily in winter either. Personal opinion here, from a guy with welded rear I know.... I just don't want to step on the gas too soon and have it engage in a curve when I'm not expecting it. With the welded, I know it's on. I expect it. Also winter for me is, Canadian winter. The snow that falls in Dec/Jan stays until April.

Tires waring out? Well the truck only gets driven once or twice a month to the trail, so not concerned there. If I hve tire issues is from the tires scratching and scrapping on sarp rocks offroad. So if your truck is really just a weekend offroader it shouldn't be an issue either. Since I sometimes forget to lock the front hubs I know just locked up in the rear this way gets me through stuff I thought I needed 4wd for so a rear locker is worth it.

I've driven welded fronts. It is crazy dumb. Sorry if anyone has that. Your can't turn that on the street. Actually it does turn, but it gives so much feeling of resistance at the steering wheel that you think it isn't turning anymore and that you have completely turned the wheel or that something is going to break, when in fact you can keep turning the wheel. I have an ARB front. I love it. Fully locked when needed. And when not needed turn it off, or just turn off to make a turn on the trail and position tires, and then turn it back on. Just a rear is great. Front and rear is way more that twice as good. I'm also of the mind that I have 4x4 Low, I have the front locker that cost alot, so I'm going to use it. maybe I don't need it for every obstacle but I have it, i will use it. Some guys will tell me it's more challenging to have no traction aides. I say the challenge is in trying to avoid the crap your spinning tires is sending my way. I want to go before these guys so I can get to the top and start having lunch. :hungry::lmao:Therefore you want to thread lightly, be nice to the environment, not tear up the trails, use your locker. If you get stuck, winch out, or get a little tow tug. Sorry that's my little morning rant.

What would he need for an e-locker retrofit? If he finds a complete rear end from a yard. Lets say if he doesn't need the toyota light on the dash, or the computer preventing it if not in 4low, is it just a voltage to turn the locking motor, and a switch in the cab. That would be easy for him. Bolt off, bolt on, get 12v to it, and fill with fluid.
 
Last edited:
What would he need for an e-locker retrofit? If he finds a complete rear end from a yard. Lets say if he doesn't need the toyota light on the dash, or the computer preventing it if not in 4low, is it just a voltage to turn the locking motor, and a switch in the cab. That would be easy for him. Bolt off, bolt on, get 12v to it, and fill with fluid.

If he uses just the third, he'd need to do some drilling and welding on his axle housing, and then the wiring. If he uses the entire elocker axle housing, he'd need to do some fab to move his spring perches, they're in the wrong place. The axle flanges should bolt up though.
 
:banana:Hey everyone.. So I have been searching the forum for more information on Lockers but cant seem to find the disadvantages of lockers? how the ride is with lockers. Is it worth putting lockers on a weekend 4wheeling rig? how much stress does this put on other components? and the difference between lockers such as the detroit locker and the powertrax locker..

How hard did you search?
There's a sticky thread on lockers on the off-roading sub-forum.
And a second one on using lockers in the front of IFS trucks.
 
right now Im just trying to figure out what I should use on the rear.. not planning on the front just yet.. looks like I just need a limited slip one at this time.. and maybe an ARB for the Front later on...
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top