Scangauge II overhead mounting

raidernation

New member
I did a quick forum search and couldn't find anything like this, so hopefully this hasn't been covered already and will give some folks another mounting option.

I was tired of the typical 'on top of the steering column mount' in my 99 limited. It covered my highbeam and O/D indicator so I decided to do an overhead mount.

I referenced this Tacomaworld write up for the install and adapted it.

Simple Scangauge II Mounting Mod - Tacoma World Forums

Difficulty of the install was fairly easy.

Items needed:
2 tape measures from the Dollar store
1 ethernet CAT5 female/female connector
1 ethernet CAT5 cable 5ft

I disassembled the following items to run the cable:
Grab handle
A-pillar trim
Overhead cosole/mirror pieces
Visors
Under dash cover

Once the above were removed I was easily able to run the ethernet cable from under the dash, up through the A-pillar area, into the headliner, and over to where I mounted the Scangauge. I used the ethernet connector under the dash to extend the existing Scangauge cable. I only needed an extra foot or so of cable but all I had laying around was a 5 ft cable so I coiled it up under the dash with zip ties.

I used the cheap dollar store tape measures for their metal mounts on the back of them. These are used to 'slide clip' the scangauge to the headliner. The scangauge housing separates into 2 pieces. The back part of the housing is empty once separated. Once you have the unit apart, you can see that the back 1/2 inch of the whole scangauge housing is fairly empty and all the vitals of the unit are up near the screen. I drilled 2 holes in the back of the scanguage housing on top, and mounted the belt type clip to the unit using (2) M3 bolts. Washers, lock washers and nuts on the inside of the scangauge. In the write up I referenced, they used simple screws to attach the clips. I decided to go with small bolts instead for piece of mind that it would not strip out the plastic housing on the scangauge.

Once the clips were mounted and the wiring ran, I just test fit the unit to find the best place that out of the way of the overhead console and rear view mirror assembly.

The only problem I had with this install was the grab handle bolts which need to be removed before the A-pillar trim will pop off. Toyota used some type of blue loctite on them and I ended up stripping the upper one in the removal (phillips head bolt). I drilled off the head off of the bolt and removed the grab handle and trim piece which left a small stub of the bolt sticking out of the a-pillar. Then I used some vice grips to unscrew the bolt. I replaced both of the Toyota bolts with socket head M6 bolts I had lying around that fit the original nuts welded to the A-pillar.


IMG_6261.jpg~original

IMG_6260.jpg~original

IMG_6259.jpg~original
 
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i like it but only if i could find a way to hide that cable. i think that would get on my nerves. i may still do this though because like you i dont like that it covers my high beam and O/D lights
 
i like it but only if i could find a way to hide that cable. i think that would get on my nerves. i may still do this though because like you i dont like that it covers my high beam and O/D lights

Mold it into the existing roof console similar to the field monitor.

I do like that location for aftermarket things, easier to watch than when it's mounted too low in the center console, and keeps things looking much cleaner than a lot of the typical add on spots. I've done a lot of AFC, boost controller type things above the rear view in the past.
 
The cable could easily be hidden by using the plug on the rear of the SG2, rather than the plug on the RH side.

Edit: BTW, nice job on the mount. I'm getting used to mine on top of the steering column, but for a long time it did bug me that it was blocking the O/D OFF light. At this point, I've gotten used to just paying attention to whether or not I have the O/D on or off based on RPM's. The high beam indicator is no biggie because the IPF's make it pretty easy to tell if the highs are on.

My only concern w/that spot is having to look up at it, which takes your eyes further off the road than a steering column mount.
 
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i like it but only if i could find a way to hide that cable. i think that would get on my nerves. i may still do this though because like you i dont like that it covers my high beam and O/D lights

A black colored cable would have been ideal, but all I had laying around was yellow 1 and I was too cheap to go buy a black one. I would use the port on the back of the scangauge except the cable ends up putting pressure on the unit because of the angle. Again, a better suited cable without the anti bend stuff around the end would be easier. I would rather get used to the yellow cable out of the side, than have the unit blocking a part of the dash.
 
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Damnit. Your comments/suggestions played into my anal retentiveness with my T4R and I went and got a better cable and made it look cleaner by tucking the cord up behind the unit.:bluejump:
 
Watch out for those grab handle bolts. They area PITA!

No kidding, couldn't get them to budge with a screw driver, tried an impact driver, finally gave up bought some new bits and drilled the bolts out.
Now if I could just get the stone to pull on the headliner enough to get the clips in I'd be all set. My headliner/gap is very tight and I'm nervious to pull on it.:wow:
Josh
 
No kidding, couldn't get them to budge with a screw driver, tried an impact driver, finally gave up bought some new bits and drilled the bolts out.
Now if I could just get the stone to pull on the headliner enough to get the clips in I'd be all set. My headliner/gap is very tight and I'm nervious to pull on it.:wow:
Josh

Unscrewing the sun visor mounts (both the swivel mount and the pop'in mount) is absolutely necessary to create the headliner space. The swivel mount just unscrews, but the pop'in mount thing needs to have the screw removed and then give it a good pull downwards and it should pop out. Also, remove the rear view mirror and overhead console as well. The overhead console will slide backwards and then fall down once the screw in the dome light area is removed. They are all pretty easy to remove. Once all those are removed, you should have plently of room to pull down the headliner.
 
Update

I decided to modify my setup again due to two issues with the previous mounting location. 1: The sun visor would not sit flush against the windshield when put forward. 2: The SC2 was very difficult to see in a bright daytime setting against the windshield.

My limited has the garage door opener space next to the mirror. I pulled the roll pins out and pulled the lower 'popper' portion out. I cut 2 slits in the over head console piece where I wanted the SC to mount. Then, I just slid the tape measure mounts into the slits, drilled a hole for the CAT5 cable and ran the cable right next to the sun roof wiring harness from the A-pillar.

It is much easier to see now and it is out of the way of the sun visor.

IMG_6275.jpg~original


IMG_6274.jpg~original
 
I'm surprised you didn't angle it more to the driver side and down. Do you have any problems viewing from that angle (might just be how it looks in the picture)?
Got mine mounted on the left side right by the pillar, love it and now I have a space on the lower concole to mount the meth progressive controller next to tranny, AFR and boost gauges.
josh:bluejump:
 

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