econhonda
New member
Well said, good posting.
Thanks, still a rookie, but I'm trying.
Well said, good posting.
I have a 2000 SR5 with the "shift-on-fly" 4hi/lo stick left of the auto selector (no button) and a Center Diff Lock button left of the steering wheel. I haven't tried the CDL out much so don't know how well it works...
Yours must be an '01 model, but made in '00. Either that or they started the change to making all trim levels with multi-mode 4x4 at the tail end of the '00 model year. What is the date on your door sticker?
I need to look, but it's currently in another city..... went off to college a few weeks ago.![]()
That's cool, we don't care if it takes a few hours, just drive home and take a look for us. :jk:
And don't get me wrong, I'm open to the idea of an AT but have driven a stick for the last 6-7 years and really don't wanna go back. IMO, its the only way to drive, no matter what vehicle you're talking about.
Yours must be an '01 model, but made in '00. Either that or they started the change to making all trim levels with multi-mode 4x4 at the tail end of the '00 model year. What is the date on your door sticker?
Not me, the truck went off to college with my daughter. :cry2:
I had her check, and the mfg date is 03/00. And the switch on the dash is a rear diff lock, not center diff lock.... :shrug:
I have a 2000 SR5 with the "shift-on-fly" 4hi/lo stick left of the auto selector (no button) and a Diff Lock button left of the steering wheel. I haven't tried the diff lock out much so don't know how well it works...
Ok, so this pink milkshake thing....is this something that happens to pretty much all 4Rs?
Thanks, that's defintely helpful info. To me having "multi-mode" is more important than the rear locker if only because I will be doing a lot more driving in snow than I will be driving in burly off-road situations where the rear locker will be important. That being said however, the set up on the limited is still bad ass.
The rear locker is still a big advantage in snow too, but in a different way. As you know, the multi-mode allows you to use 4x4 on a mostly dry, patchy road that would normally bind up a standard t-case, but those of us without the CDL just get good at switching in and out of 2hi/4hi. However, in deep snow my rear locker makes a huge difference. Usually it's the difference between sleeping an extra hour and not having to shovel out my drivway at 6am.
OTOH, adding a rear locker is pretty simple, whether you do it as a Toyota-branded E-locker or an ARB. So if he's sure he wants multi mode but not sure about the locker, he can get an 01-02 SR5 model with the multi mode and if he wants to add the rear locker later, he can do so.
But if he gets a 96 - 2000 SR5 (non-multi-mode) with a rear locker now, and later decides he needs multi-mode, his only real option will be to sell it and buy a 4runner that's got multi mode.
Very true but the difference is that adding multi-mode to a 4runner is financially impractical (IOW, it would probably cost more to add a multi-mode T-case to a 4runner than it would be to just sell the 4runner and buy one that already had the multi mode.)
OTOH, adding a rear locker is pretty simple, whether you do it as a Toyota-branded E-locker or an ARB. So if he's sure he wants multi mode but not sure about the locker, he can get an 01-02 SR5 model with the multi mode and if he wants to add the rear locker later, he can do so.
But if he gets a 96 - 2000 SR5 (non-multi-mode) with a rear locker now, and later decides he needs multi-mode, his only real option will be to sell it and buy a 4runner that's got multi mode.
So how much would adding a locker cost? Definitely sounds like a good way to go. Especially if I can find a 5spd SR5.
This is where you have to really start planning everything major you want to do in the future right now. If you want a locker, but plan on running 33s or 35s in the future, then you will save hundreds if you regear and do the locker at the same time because the labor is redundant. Just an ARB rear locker installed will cost ~$1400-1500. Just doing gears alone would be ~$1600-1800 (both diffs). So if done seperately, you're looking at $3000-3300 total. but I did it all at once and spent ~$2500 total. Just my $.02.