Scratches on my black Runner after winter, how to fix to blend in the best?

Well, now that the snow is gone here in NY I found a very nice scratch on my passenger door that needs fixing. The scratch is about 6 inches long but only about 1/2 inch in the middle of it I can actually catch my nail on. The rest just looks like a white scratch. I already did a search and I did find Langka Scratch Repair Kit but want to know if anyone has ever used this. I also noted some scratches on my back hatch that are just white but I cannot catch them with my nail. What is the best way to fix these scratches and blend in the best? I also see some I guess what would be swirl marks on the black paint. I am assuming this is from maybe the snowbrush or maybe ice but they are not scratches. Just like discoloration lines on the paint. I have heard others speak of a clay bar that can be used. I never used this nor know how to use it. Any suggestions on my multiple issues? I asked the dealership and they want $450 to just fix my door. I told them thanks but no thanks.
 
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AAHHHH!!! The joys of owning a black vehicle!! Here is the skinny on your problem. If your truck was white or a lighter color you would never see the scratches you are describing--but its not so I will tell you how to fix them. You will need to use a buffer and some 3M light cut compound and take your time to work the scratches out. This is not difficult, but you do need to be careful when using a high speed buffer and compound. You could use a standard orbital buffer to be safe. Clay bar treatment is a good idea, but it wont get rid of your scratches. There are plenty of products out there that will cover them up until you wash the vehicle again but there is no way to actually get rid of them except with a buffer and some compound. Elbow grease and some compound could work, but not as well as a buffer. From now on be really careful with that snow brush as black paint will show any blemish. After you spend some time with a buffer I would get some spray wax to put on every time you wash the vehicle......this will hide a lot of the inevitable scratches that you will see on a black vehicle....at least until it rains or you wash again, but by this time you will have a dirty vehicle so you wont see them anyhow. After you finish with the scratch removing be sure and put a good coat of a high quality polish/wax on there like Meguiars NXT, Nanowax, etc. Here is the compound I used to use on my black silverado. http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs6669CHc7rrrrQ-
 
Am I correct in stating that the 3M product is some sort of a liquid sander of some sort? I did read that usally the white scratches are just scratches below the clear coat. Would you suggest using the compound on the scratch that I get get my fingernail on? I already use the NXT products so thats not a problem. I have the NXT wax and wash. You wouldn't use the paint kit that I put in my first post? I just don't want to rub too much. I was also looking at this product. Do you think it would work also? Liquid sander clear coat fix
 
Personally I would use the 3M stuff. It is not very abrasive. When using some products you can tell they are abrasive becuase the finish will look hazy and scratchy until you wax it, but not so with the 3M product. I am not going to disapprove of the other products you mention, but I know that the method I recommended will not harm your finish and will work.
 
The scratches that you can't catch with your nails, sound like a scratch in the clear coat, so the paint hasn't really been damaged. Because you have a dark color, it's more visible than on a lighter color.

I've used the Langka product before. It's primary purpose is to remove "blobs" in touch up paint, so that it looks and feels smooth. The results are as good as the touch up paint's ability to match the original paint. I used it on silver car, silver's hard to work with because of the different shades it would look under different lighting conditions. But overall Langka does work as advertised, unlike that other blob remover stuff dealers carry.

Apply a touch up paint on the scratch. Wait 30 minutes to 2 hours for the paint to dry. The use the Langka blob eliminator and rub the touched up areas. The excess touch up paint will rub away and you will have a filled scratch.

I would suggest trying to have a detailer work on the scratches if you're not comfortable with touching it up yourself. Some detailers will repair chips and scratches for less than the cost of repainting.

Good luck.
 
Thanks guys for the help. I am going to go to my local Autozone and see if I can find the 3M product since others have used it. I am hoping to get this thing fixed and all shiny this weekend. Can I get a good result without an orbital polisher or is that just easier?

FYI, dealer wouldn't repair just the scratch as they "claimed" they needed to repaint the whole door.
 
I dont think autozone carries 3M stuff. Try PepBoys or a Napa autoparts store. You can try it by hand first and see if that works. If it doesnt you may need to buy/borrow a buffer. Definitely dont let the dealer repaint the door. I had a nice scratch on my tailgate from where my garage door closed on it :dammit: and I got it repaired at a local body shop. They matched the color and texture perfect but there are 3 or 4 dirt particles in the paint that show up as bumps and it is not perfect around the edges. I made them redo it and it came out better but still not perfect, but it was the best paint job I have seen a body shop do........it was still not perfect. Now on the tailgate this is more acceptable than on a door that matches up with a fender and another door, where the differences will be apparent. If you are picky enough to care about the scratches you would not be happy with a repaint. So try everything else first!
 
Ok, thanks for the tip. I will try it by hand first. My neighbor has a buffer that I can borrow. I will try PepBoys as they are just down the road from work. What about the Meguiars Clay Bar, where would I get that and how do I use it? Pretty self explanatory?
 
scott78945 said:
FYI, dealer wouldn't repair just the scratch as they "claimed" they needed to repaint the whole door.

Dealer won't touch your paint, most likely due to potential warranty claims and liability issues. At best, they'll provide touch up paint free of charge (some Lexus dealers).

A detailer, the ones who wash and shine up a car's finish with great care (add dressing to your tires and black mouldings, dress the engine bay, hoses, etc.) might be able to repair chips and scratches.

scott78945 said:
Ok, thanks for the tip. I will try it by hand first. My neighbor has a buffer that I can borrow. I will try PepBoys as they are just down the road from work. What about the Meguiars Clay Bar, where would I get that and how do I use it? Pretty self explanatory?

If it's a random orbital or dual action buffer, then it can be used by almost anyone. A high speed rotary buffer, you need to be careful with. Stay in one spot too long and it'll burn your paint. I recommend leaving this to a professional. But if you have experience with using one, you will get great results. Some products wouldn't work by hand because there's not enough friction/heat that can be generated. But it wouldn't hurt to try it by hand.

Clay bar usually comes after washing your car and before polish and waxing. Clay bar is straight forward, typically used to remove contaminants (roughness) that have embedded itself into your vehicle's finish. It's removes that roughness you feel when running your hand over your vehicle. Work with a 2ft by 2ft area at a time. Spray the detailer solution (lubricant) on both the clay and the vehicle's surface and gently rub away. At first you will feel the finish kind of "grab" the clay. Eventually, it'll be very smooth and the clay will glide over the surface easily. If you see contaminants like tree sap, tar, fallout, etc. rub longer, but not harder. After working two to three sections, mold the clay in your hands again by folding it over, so a new/clean side of the clay is exposed again. You're done once the finish feels super smooth like glass.

You should be able to find clay bar kits at your auto supply store, i.e. Pep Boys, Kragen, Auto Zone.
 
My galactic gray 4Runner came from the dealer with scratches and, since they couldn't get it right (I learned never to let dealers touch your car), I took matters into my own hands. What I used was Meguiar's Scratch-X and it worked great. You can only use it on those scratches that are in the clear coat, not down to the primer or bare metal. The Scratch-X is not too harsh and works very gradually to take off a small amount of clearcoat around the scratch until you can't see it anymore. Then you follow up with a paint cleaner, polish, and wax and you're done. I highly recommend it over messing with orbitals (unless you know what you're doing) and other more abrasive products. Give it a try and work your way up to the tougher stuff if needed.
 

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I'll have to look up that Meguiars Scratch-X. I have all of their other products and am just looking for something that is safe to use. I don't want to kill my Runner already.
 
There's some good advice in here for the scratches so I won't bother adding to it.

The clay bar however, will do nothing for the scratches at all, but it is still a very good thing to have in your detail bucket. Uneek's description is spot on. You can't get out any scratches at all with it, but man, if you use it before you wax it will shine like the sun. I've used it right before a meguiar's 3 step and was absolutely amazed with the finish. All the bar does is get off the oxidation and contaminants, that's it.

And also as already mentioned, a random orbital polisher simply simulates hand rubbing. It won't burn off your paint if used improperly, like a high speed buffer will. If you don't have one of these in your arsenal I highly suggest you get one of them. When you way with an orbital polisher, you apply wax to the entire truck by hand (or with the buffer but I like to hand rub it because it is neater, and more accurate), then you take the polisher and buff it all off, then go back and finish it with a clean towel. Compared to a 1.5 hour hand wax, you can do it this way in about 20 minutes.
 
Very informative thread. I also have a black vehicle. I owned it for nearly a year and after salt Canadian winter it's all scratched in the same manner as Scotts one. Black is very cool color on the summer sun, but pain in one place to maintain. I, personally, like black and knew when I was buying it that it will be difficult to maintain it shine. Thanks to all of you for the info. Looks like I picked-up some good ideas from this thread.
 
Years ago I used a product made by 3M called Fill-N-Glaze (pink in color), it works great. It is not abrasive. It was only sold by auto body suppliers.

Koz
 
I picked up the Scratch-X during my lunch today and I will be giving it a whirl this weekend. I will take before and after pictures so everyone can see the difference. Hopefully everything comes out ok.
 
so you guys are saying that there's a way to get scratches out, even if they're in the paint itself?

How is that possible, how do those products work?
 
scott78945 said:
I picked up the Scratch-X during my lunch today and I will be giving it a whirl this weekend. I will take before and after pictures so everyone can see the difference. Hopefully everything comes out ok.

Let us know how you do, I have a black Miata that needs help too.
 
I used Scratch-X couple of times. It works great for minor scratches, but unfortunately last up to 2 carwashes.
 
AlexJet said:
I used Scratch-X couple of times. It works great for minor scratches, but unfortunately last up to 2 carwashes.

That's too bad, I thought it would permanently take care of scratches that only penetrated the clear coat. Maybe I'll look for the 3M product and try that first.
Thanks
 
Yeah, I was under the assumption that it took care of it permanently also. It doesn't say on the bottle that its temporary. Can anyone confirm this that has used it?
 

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