rook
New member
Fixing scratches
Lets face it, removing scratches is a job best left to professionals. However, it is a skill that can be learned in a short period of time. Ideally you should learn on a vehicle with less than perfect paint.
I would suggest getting a rotary buffer (aka high speed). Makita makes a great variable speed unit for about $250. If you shop the auto body supply stores you can get a 3M kit included. The system is called "perfect it 3" it consists of a foam pad, compound, and a hard plastic backing plate which threads onto the buffer's shaft. The buffing pad attaches to the backing plate via velcro
The 3M system uses a compound that will work extremely well at removing scratches without swirling. The system was developed to be used after newly applied paint has been sanded. On cured factory paint I'd recommend starting with the buffer set at low speed. (I think mine has a low setting of 500rpm). Once you get the feel for it you can increase the speed.
The key to avoid burning through the finish is to keep the surface "wet" with compound. As a fine dust develops, it is time to reapply more compound. Keep the buffer moving back and forth with the pad as flat as possible as you follow the contour of the panel. Never stop moving the buffer back and forth when contacting the paint surface. From my experience, the only way to do damage is to buff at prolonged high speeds or catch a corner at high speed.
There are 2 types of pads to use. The white is for cutting (scratch removal) and black is for glazing. Glaze is used after compound to remove any micro abrasions that remain and gives the paint a higher level of gloss.
I will be doing some scratch removal this spring, it looks like some donkey in the parking lot got me on the door and I scratched the hood with a snow scraper. I'll post some pix on the process. If done properly, most scratches will be removed and other deep scratches can be improved to near invisible.
Note in the first pic below the compound has a wool pad which would cut more agressively.
<IMG SRC=http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images/lp_2.jpg>
<IMG SRC=http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images/lp_3a.jpg>
Lets face it, removing scratches is a job best left to professionals. However, it is a skill that can be learned in a short period of time. Ideally you should learn on a vehicle with less than perfect paint.
I would suggest getting a rotary buffer (aka high speed). Makita makes a great variable speed unit for about $250. If you shop the auto body supply stores you can get a 3M kit included. The system is called "perfect it 3" it consists of a foam pad, compound, and a hard plastic backing plate which threads onto the buffer's shaft. The buffing pad attaches to the backing plate via velcro
The 3M system uses a compound that will work extremely well at removing scratches without swirling. The system was developed to be used after newly applied paint has been sanded. On cured factory paint I'd recommend starting with the buffer set at low speed. (I think mine has a low setting of 500rpm). Once you get the feel for it you can increase the speed.
The key to avoid burning through the finish is to keep the surface "wet" with compound. As a fine dust develops, it is time to reapply more compound. Keep the buffer moving back and forth with the pad as flat as possible as you follow the contour of the panel. Never stop moving the buffer back and forth when contacting the paint surface. From my experience, the only way to do damage is to buff at prolonged high speeds or catch a corner at high speed.
There are 2 types of pads to use. The white is for cutting (scratch removal) and black is for glazing. Glaze is used after compound to remove any micro abrasions that remain and gives the paint a higher level of gloss.
I will be doing some scratch removal this spring, it looks like some donkey in the parking lot got me on the door and I scratched the hood with a snow scraper. I'll post some pix on the process. If done properly, most scratches will be removed and other deep scratches can be improved to near invisible.
Note in the first pic below the compound has a wool pad which would cut more agressively.
<IMG SRC=http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images/lp_2.jpg>
<IMG SRC=http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images/lp_3a.jpg>
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