Seafoam'd the 4Runner

I think I'll try this. My truck is up to like 70something now. You guys think it's cool even if it's supercharged/turbo'ed?
 
I think I'll try this. My truck is up to like 70something now. You guys think it's cool even if it's supercharged/turbo'ed?

I seafoamed a 2.0 Turbo Audi A4 with no problems. CEL came one for a couple miles then went off but didnt seem to phase it. I will say with that particular motor it didnt smoke very much. The high compression of the motor itself and because it was direct injection kept the engine rather clean.

Edit: 07 Audi had 94k miles when i seafoamed it
 
I seafoamed a 2.0 Turbo Audi A4 with no problems. CEL came one for a couple miles then went off but didnt seem to phase it. I will say with that particular motor it didnt smoke very much. The high compression of the motor itself and because it was direct injection kept the engine rather clean.

Edit: 07 Audi had 94k miles when i seafoamed it

You're going to find out soon, or down the road that you're gonna need to pull the intake manifold off and soak each of the intake ports with the valves closed and then vaccum that carbon out. Have a friend who owns a Performance shop for Euro/Asian cars and they do a LOT of intake cleanings for the Euro GDI engines, since there is no injector spray on the back of the valve they get coated in carbon almost blocking off the intake port completely!

Funny thing is that they use Seafoam to soak the carbon. :thumb3:

2cylindervalves.jpg~original

They end up looking like this! :eek: Also, the other thing is that VW has come out and said they made their camshafts too soft, they're wiping those trilobes that power the high pressure fuel pump like no other.

Keep an eye out for that stuff so it doesn't catch you with yer pants down! :)
 
I would def run it through the oil with that amount of miles. Also, in my opinion, with that many miles I would run 1/2 bottle in the vacuum line 1/2 in the gas tank with about a 1/4 of a tank of fuel, and another 1/2 in the oil. This will make the oil thin so you dont want to run in it the oil for very long. Again, just my opinion.

when you put 1/2 a bottle in the vacuum line where does it go? is it sucked into the engine for combustion? is that done with the car running?

is it bad for the cat converter?
 
when you put 1/2 a bottle in the vacuum line where does it go? is it sucked into the engine for combustion? is that done with the car running?

is it bad for the cat converter?

In gets sucked in by the vacuum and travels through the intake runners, through the intake valves where it gets mixed with fuel and burns up in the combustion chamber. It has to be done with the engine running... no vacuum when it's not. It shouldn't have any impact on cats at all... you can read up on their website. They have a ton of info and there are bunch of 'educational' videos out there. I'll be doing this to my Runner in a couple weeks. I did it to an old neglected Cherokee I had years ago and it made a huge difference! Smoked out the entire neighborhood, too.
 
when you put 1/2 a bottle in the vacuum line where does it go? is it sucked into the engine for combustion? is that done with the car running?

is it bad for the cat converter?

When you suck it through the vacuum line (Assuming you use the right one) it gets pulled through the intake system, onto the back of the intake valves, into the combustion chamber and out the tail pipe. It cleans out all the gunk from where it goes in until it goes out. It is safe for the catalytic converter, it is designed to burn away and will be reduced to ash that will pass through the exhaust system. Worst it will do is confuse the ECU into thinking its running too rich for a short while.
 
In gets sucked in by the vacuum and travels through the intake runners, through the intake valves where it gets mixed with fuel and burns up in the combustion chamber. It has to be done with the engine running... no vacuum when it's not. It shouldn't have any impact on cats at all... you can read up on their website. They have a ton of info and there are bunch of 'educational' videos out there. I'll be doing this to my Runner in a couple weeks. I did it to an old neglected Cherokee I had years ago and it made a huge difference! Smoked out the entire neighborhood, too.

When you suck it through the vacuum line (Assuming you use the right one) it gets pulled through the intake system, onto the back of the intake valves, into the combustion chamber and out the tail pipe. It cleans out all the gunk from where it goes in until it goes out. It is safe for the catalytic converter, it is designed to burn away and will be reduced to ash that will pass through the exhaust system. Worst it will do is confuse the ECU into thinking its running too rich for a short while.

thanks for the info guys!


here is what i found on the website....

"To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam® to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.

To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam® can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam® Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site).

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam® to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam® will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam® to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.

Performing a Sea Foam® Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine

Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician."


What do you make of the area that's highlighted in blue?

Do our rigs distribute equally? (red highlight)
 
You're going to find out soon, or down the road that you're gonna need to pull the intake manifold off and soak each of the intake ports with the valves closed and then vaccum that carbon out. Have a friend who owns a Performance shop for Euro/Asian cars and they do a LOT of intake cleanings for the Euro GDI engines, since there is no injector spray on the back of the valve they get coated in carbon almost blocking off the intake port completely!

Funny thing is that they use Seafoam to soak the carbon. :thumb3:

2cylindervalves.jpg~original

They end up looking like this! :eek: Also, the other thing is that VW has come out and said they made their camshafts too soft, they're wiping those trilobes that power the high pressure fuel pump like no other.

Keep an eye out for that stuff so it doesn't catch you with yer pants down! :)

Luckily, I sold it. I had more problems with that car than i knew what to do with. Funny thing is at about 60k miles the high pressure fuel pump failed and cause the camshaft to break. That was 1 of the 19 weeks total that the car spent in the shop in the 24 months that i owned it. Yes....19 weeks.
 
think

sometimes its mind-boggling how somethings just get unnecessarily beat.

follow the directions seafoam manuf. gives you, i guarantee you that you are not smarter than the team of scientist that they have in r&d.

also, as we all love the t4r, its not an exotic car that you have to worry about throwing this into. if this was a rebuild thread for a '56 gullwing 300 then i can legitimize the breadth of questions. but... its not. just follow the directions.

whitebeauty... are you kidding me? you really didnt read any part except the thread title? its clearly covered that you need to drive a MAX of 100 miles after using the product. again, a number reached by a team of scientist, not some guess-timation by a tax attorney.
 
So pretty much it would be safe to say to do this before a long trip. just dont put it in the oil...

Correct. Takes all of 15 minutes to complete.

sometimes its mind-boggling how somethings just get unnecessarily beat.

follow the directions seafoam manuf. gives you, i guarantee you that you are not smarter than the team of scientist that they have in r&d.

also, as we all love the t4r, its not an exotic car that you have to worry about throwing this into. if this was a rebuild thread for a '56 gullwing 300 then i can legitimize the breadth of questions. but... its not. just follow the directions.

whitebeauty... are you kidding me? you really didnt read any part except the thread title? its clearly covered that you need to drive a MAX of 100 miles after using the product. again, a number reached by a team of scientist, not some guess-timation by a tax attorney.

Don't be negative, instead of waisting your time on this thread "that has been unnecessarily beat" move to the next thread if you don't want to answer peoples questions or be of help. That simple. Also, just because we do not drive a Ferrari doesn't mean that we do not get carbon buildup in the motor. A motor is a motor, they all do the same thing.
 
thanks for the info guys!


here is what i found on the website....

"To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam® to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.

To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam® can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam® down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam® Spray through the throttle body (discribed in a different section of this web site).

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam® to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam® will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam® to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.

Performing a Sea Foam® Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine

Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician."


What do you make of the area that's highlighted in blue?

Do our rigs distribute equally? (red highlight)

On the hose that I used for the 4th gen it does distribute it evenly.
 
here is something interesting to consider, while everybody is on the topic of even distribution through the vacuum hose shown in the photo earlier in this thread. I have true dual exhaust, and after putting half a can through the mentioned hose, i looked under my car at all the white smoke coming out, only to notice that smoke was ONLY coming from the pipe that came from the right side of the motor, opposite of the hose. Is this evidence that the mentioned hose does NOT in fact distribute evenly?
 
2.7 seafoam

I have a 98 2.7 with 198k. Recently started losing mpg/power so I changed spark plugs and wires. Then it started hesitating up hill giving the flashing cel which I believe is a missfire code. Anyways I thinks it's a sticky valve or clogged injector. So where is the best vacuum line to use to seafoam the 2.7. A pic might help or detailed description.

Thanks!!!

Nvm there's a link at the bottom. I just was worried about ruining sensors....
 
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here is something interesting to consider, while everybody is on the topic of even distribution through the vacuum hose shown in the photo earlier in this thread. I have true dual exhaust, and after putting half a can through the mentioned hose, i looked under my car at all the white smoke coming out, only to notice that smoke was ONLY coming from the pipe that came from the right side of the motor, opposite of the hose. Is this evidence that the mentioned hose does NOT in fact distribute evenly?

For the v8 motor this may be true, but the vacuum line I used leads directly to the throttle body. To my knowledge this would distribute the fluid pretty evenly. Please correct me if I am wrong because there is always that possibility.
 
so, thus far we have:

the V8 vacuum hose doesnt distrib equally
while the V6 hose does distrib equally

i think... can anyone confirm?
 
here is something interesting to consider, while everybody is on the topic of even distribution through the vacuum hose shown in the photo earlier in this thread. I have true dual exhaust, and after putting half a can through the mentioned hose, i looked under my car at all the white smoke coming out, only to notice that smoke was ONLY coming from the pipe that came from the right side of the motor, opposite of the hose. Is this evidence that the mentioned hose does NOT in fact distribute evenly?

As far as I know the PCV Valve hose should provide even distribution through the intake. I guess I can double check later today... :keyboard:
 

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