Seat foam swap

It really takes no upholstery experience to change it. Just bend the hog rings open with a needle nose and unhook the obvious retaining (clips) and reverse the order putting the cover on the new foam. Just start in the middle of the seat and work outward. Don't pay anyone to do it. Should take 30 min or so to do the butt cushion. Haven't done the sest back but probably similar to the seat bottom just more rings.
 
Part numbers for specific seats would be helpful info here. I recall a little confusion ordering the correct cushion for the Tacoma and was relieved to find the part number molded in the original foam matched what I ordered.
 
Want to add my vote to zip ties. Three weeks ago I picked up a 2001 SR5 from a dealer, only to discover after the detailing smell wore off that the PO was a smoker. I stripped the interior to the last bolt and have scrubbed every surface, from the inside of the ducts to all the seat foam. Had to wash each piece of upholstery multiple times and hand scrub with Folex.

Snipping the hog rings and replacing with zip ties made it a (relative) snap.

Also, smoke odor is gone!


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It'll be interesting to see how long the zipties last in their new job. I've got a bottom foam replacement coming up, but I've already got nice hog ring pliers and a good supply of rings.
 
Part numbers for specific seats would be helpful info here. I recall a little confusion ordering the correct cushion for the Tacoma and was relieved to find the part number molded in the original foam matched what I ordered.
99 seat foam
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Are these the standard cloth seats for a 3rd gen 4runner?
Those are the '99/'00 'base' model seats (used on base and SR5 4Runners without the 'sport' seat option). The 'sport' seats have a height adjuster and lumbar adjuster on the driver's seat with more bolstering.

-Charlie
 
A few things:

1 - Brand new seat foam lowers are available from US Auto Seat Cover. Quality is fantastic, possibly better than OEM if they were even available anymore. Price is less than some here quoted for having a used one shipped

2 - You can carefully peel/slice the occupancy sensor off the old seat and glue it to the new one with rubber contact cement

3 - Now is the time to add seat heaters
 
Size of the hog rings?

OK I want to do it, with the hog rings. What size are they? I see 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch on Amazon.
Thanks!
 
Thread revival...there are a lot of great ideas and pics here, thanks guys! The idea with the zip ties is great and will be less cost for me.

I have two toasted front seat bottoms...can the seat bottoms be removed without taking off the floor bolts on the seats?

I've been reading about various nightmares with those floor bolts and the nuts coming loose from the tack weld underneath. I don't have my T4R at the moment but planning ahead I was thinking can they be accessed if the centre console is removed?
 
Thread revival...there are a lot of great ideas and pics here, thanks guys! The idea with the zip ties is great and will be less cost for me.

I have two toasted front seat bottoms...can the seat bottoms be removed without taking off the floor bolts on the seats?

I've been reading about various nightmares with those floor bolts and the nuts coming loose from the tack weld underneath. I don't have my T4R at the moment but planning ahead I was thinking can they be accessed if the centre console is removed?

You need to have the seats out to remove the trim which covers the bolts holding the seat bottom in.
 
I've been reading about various nightmares with those floor bolts and the nuts coming loose from the tack weld underneath. I don't have my T4R at the moment but planning ahead I was thinking can they be accessed if the centre console is removed?

Yeah, so the bolts are a nightmare. I've taken my driver side and passenger side seats out twice, and on the second time of installing them, I snapped the tack welded nut on the front right leg of the passenger seat because I cross threaded the nut and bolt (Yeah haha what an idiot... I know, I know, in my defense the bolt threads were rough, I should have put a little grease on them or something.)

Accessing the holes does not require removing the center console if I'm reading what you said correctly. Some of the seat holes are completely open and exposed underneath the vehicle, I believe the rear holes on both seats if I'm remembering correctly. However the front holes are inside a closed channel. When I snapped mine I had to drill a hole in this channel from underneath with a hole saw, grab the broken nut, and fish up a new washer and nut, and then fasten the bolt from the top (obviously). Be careful to land your new hole right in the middle of the channel, and don't clip the part where it is welded to the floor, otherwise you're gonna put a little hole in your floor. It's easier with two people, make sure to plug that hole you drilled with a plug, I got a 1 1/8 inch rubber plug from Lowe's and it did the trick. I'd also recommend painting the exposed metal on the edge of where you drilled the hole.

This is all from my experience, I'd recommended reading some threads and replies from others that have experienced this. If you're careful and you torque to spec, then you should be fine.
 
hi thanks for the tip! I'm hoping access and remove the seat bottoms without taking off the whole seat and seat rails. After removing the seat I'm going to replace the damaged cover with new vinyl I purchased off eBay.
 
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