Seattle206's 2014 SR5 Thread

Installed the Gobi ladder. It's really just for aesthetics as I normally stand on my rear tires or on the slider kick-outs when I need to get stuff off the roof rack. Doesn't look bad on the 3/4 Prinsu rack. I also upgraded the lift gate struts to heavier duty units from Lifts Supports Depot. Lifts and holds the gate up quickly with ease. I used part # PM1062N10. Less than $60 shipped!

Also noticed that somebody decided hit my rear bumper. No note either, jerk. Buffed it a little and touched it up with some paint. Not really noticeable unless I point it out. I'll collect a few more of these "street scars" before I do either the CBI or Shrockworks rear bumper. I swear, I sustain more damage from idiots in Seattle than when I hit the trails.

Now waiting on my JBA UCAs and RCI tranny and tranx skids.
 

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And the last of the pics.
 

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Mapping out our Washington Back Country Discovery Route trip we will be doing in late August/September. Generally takes 7 days to complete the entire route but due to time constraints we can only do sections at a time. We will be starting from Carson and finishing in Ellensburg then back home to Seattle. Will finish the remainder of the route in 2018.
 

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Installed JBA 7.0 High Caster Standard UCA's. These things are hefty! This would probably be the easiest job I've been in regards to the 5th gens suspension. Just shy of 1 hour. Will take it in for alignment soon.

Update: Took it in for an alignment and the tech got everything in spec. Pretty much at 3 caster and 0 for camber/toe. It drives smoother on the road and of course, no bump steering or wandering. Did notice both tires now rub on the mud flaps under tight turns. My stock UCAs did not have any rubbing what so ever. I took off the flaps to get rid of the rubbing. While turning the tires they do get close to the body mount by 1/4". Going on incline/decline driveways at full turn makes contact on the body mount slightly.

I'm having my Nitto Ridge Grapplers installed on Friday. They do have a more aggressive and square shoulder compared the my current Cooper ATPs. I have another alignment appointment for Sunday so hopefully they can get more caster and move the wheels away from the mount. So far I am not experiencing any rubbing on the UCA during full turns. I would imagine there would be slight contact under hard compression.
 

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Received my Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 285/70/17 C load. Been eyeing these tires since they were released. Decided to go with C loads as 95% of my driving is on road. My previous tires were Cooper Discoverer ATP in the same size but in E load. They were a lot stiffer and nosier but they did its job when I hit the trails hard. I'd say that 10 ply sidewall saved me from getting stranded on the trail a couple times. Time will tell if these C load Nittos will do the same.

Had them mounted this morning and hit up Capitol Forest right after. Buddy just installed the OME BP-51 on his 2nd gen Taco so he wanted to try those suckers out as well. We drove around on various trails; gravel, snow and mud/clay. These Nitto's are quiet and overall smooth on the road. I like them. They performed well on the snow but couldn't get too far in the thick clay. We did not air down or really try anything technical.
 

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More...
 

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And a short YT video of the my Ridge Grapplers sliding through some icy snow.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OqeTYfJDoJI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Lubed up the driveshaft as it is called for in the 30k maintenance schedule. Used Mobil1 Synthetic Grease NLGI GC-LB Lithium for the u-joints and Valvoline VV985 Moly-Fortified for the slip yokes. The 2010+ 4WD models have a total of 6 zerks that need to be greased. Double checked and made sure all driveshaft bolts are still torqued properly.

If you want to ensure that your driveshaft will last be sure to maintain it! My u-joints were pretty dry probably from all the puddles and ponds I've driven through. I am sure dealer never bothered lubing up the joints either. When the old grease finally started coming out it was quite watery and very dirty. Going to have to do this every 10k with my oil changes.
 

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Mapping out our Washington Back Country Discovery Route trip we will be doing in late August/September. Generally takes 7 days to complete the entire route but due to time constraints we can only do sections at a time. We will be starting from Carson and finishing in Ellensburg then back home to Seattle. Will finish the remainder of the route in 2018.

Am planning to do this late July or early August. Thinking 3 day weekend for one or both sections. What were you planning time wise?
 
Am planning to do this late July or early August. Thinking 3 day weekend for one or both sections. What were you planning time wise?

Most likely the last weekend of August or even Labor Day weekend. Heavy snow this year so I think by late July the roads should be clear.
 
Labor Day weekend would be its own adventure driving back across the pass...

Do you think a three day weekend would be okay for both sections?
 
^^^

I haven't done the WABDR before but I would give myself 3 days to complete the first half, add a 4th day in case things don't go as planned. I'm going to shoot for 3 days from Carson to Ellensburg.

4/1/2017. Met up with fellow Runners for a trail run in Mason County.

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Got my suspension from TotalAutomotiveLV; Fox 2.5 IFP and 2.0 shocks. Early Xmas to myself with new suspension and two guns set to arrive at my FFL this week! Will install these on Saturday.
 

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Lubed up the driveshaft as it is called for in the 30k maintenance schedule. Used Mobil1 Synthetic Grease NLGI GC-LB Lithium for the u-joints and Valvoline VV985 Moly-Fortified for the slip yokes. The 2010+ 4WD models have a total of 6 zerks that need to be greased. Double checked and made sure all driveshaft bolts are still torqued properly.

If you want to ensure that your driveshaft will last be sure to maintain it! My u-joints were pretty dry probably from all the puddles and ponds I've driven through. I am sure dealer never bothered lubing up the joints either. When the old grease finally started coming out it was quite watery and very dirty. Going to have to do this every 10k with my oil changes.

Great post... just had a question though on your choice of grease. Is there a particular reason you went with these two and not something like SuperLube w/ PTFE?
 
Great post... just had a question though on your choice of grease. Is there a particular reason you went with these two and not something like SuperLube w/ PTFE?

I've used Mobil1 Synthetic for greasing up random things on all my previous vehicles; Subaru, Lexus, BMW and now my 4Runner. I've never had a bad experience myself. I'm sure the SuperLube stuff will work fine as long as it meets the NGLI #2 Lithium requirement.

The 2010 4Runner 4WD manual calls for Moly grease for the slip yokes. I just bought what was cheap and available at the time. Lots of folks argue about brands and type of grease to use in spiders/cardans/slips but I just stick with what the manual calls for. You will have two grease guns but hey, they're cheap from HF.

U-Joints: Multi-Purpose Lithium NGLI GC #2
Slip Yokes: Moly NGLI GC #2
 
Installed the Fox 2.5 IFP coilovers in the front and Fox 2.0 shocks for the rear. They are non-reservoir versions. I found out myself the factory pre-load is at approximately 2" of lift for the 5th gens. A Fox representative told me that these coilovers came factory pre-loaded at the max lift advertised, 3". After installing the Fox's it had actually lowered my front compared to my previous of 5100(set at .0") and OME 2887. Previous setup gave me a near 3" lift. I do have additional weight in the front and this Fox setup was designed for factory weight.
 

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Saturday, a buddy and I hit up a 30 miles stretch of the Washington Backcountry Discovery Route near Ellensburg. The new suspension ate up all the washboards with ease. Even got up to 40mph during straight stretches.
 

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More pics...
 

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