Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!

[randy88fj62]

What am I missing here. The Toyota P/N 176100C010 Air Pump is $175 from partsouq and takes 6 hours for an install. Why go to all this trouble to go around the system? I am at 514,000 miles on my V8 and I'm swapping it since I'll be replacing a knock sensor.

Even if the pump only lasted 180,000 miles you would only have to change it twice theoretically for most.

 

[stopthefury]

What am I missing here. The Toyota P/N 176100C010 Air Pump is $175 from partsouq and takes 6 hours for an install. Why go to all this trouble to go around the system? I am at 514,000 miles on my V8 and I'm swapping it since I'll be replacing a knock sensor.

Even if the pump only lasted 180,000 miles you would only have to change it twice theoretically for most.

$50 > $175 and 6+ hours of labor.

How much "trouble" do you think it is? Sounds like less trouble than 6 hours of labor.

Why are people so opposed to this?

 

[Daemoro]

Every time I start my truck now, I smell that faint gas smell and I smile... knowing that a little money and about 15 minutes has probably saved me quite a lot of money and time later.

 

[dedlewamp]

Second time in my '08 that I've gotten the P011B error code using Slyfox's bypass kit.

Has anyone else run into a similar issue? It's easy to reset, but it's frustrating that it disables VSC and TCS.

 

[Runnin on E]

code0

Second time in my '08 that I've gotten the P011B error code using Slyfox's bypass kit.

Has anyone else run into a similar issue? It's easy to reset, but it's frustrating that it disables VSC and TCS.

Did you do the trouble shooting that Auseeker suggested?

 

[dedlewamp]

Thanks for your reply. I was able to look at a freeze frame at the time the code was thrown, and the Coolant temperature was 52, and the IAT was 54, which were both very close to the actual temperatures outside at the time, so I believe they are both reporting accurate temperatures, unless the resistors are failing randomly and reporting wrong temperatures only briefly. I am also working with SlyFox for a resolution, my research has shown that 08' and newer Tundra's received a ECU update that changed the behavior behind the logic of this error code, however it was never released for the 4Runners.

 

[bqenyc]

There are 3 options. You skill and budget will determine which one is right for you.

1. Build your own via Tundra Forums instructions (requires free registration):
TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

2. Get a kit that requires you to cut wires, aka, the SlyFox kit. It is $45 but I you must be comfortable cutting at least one wire. Jeff is a great guy and he was very helpful over email even though I did not go with his kit.

3. The plug and play method. Their are two kits - RuTech ($180) and Hewitt Tech ($225). The big difference is the RuTech does not have a starter wire, so the relay will not work if you put your truck ignition in the ON (but not Started) position for more than a few seconds. Hewitt has the started wire, but it requires you to put it under the starter relay. Hewitt might need a wire cut as well. You can check their website.

I went with the RuTech as I want plug and play with no cutting. I will be installing the block off plates as a redundancy, so even if the relay fails, the pump can't function anyway.

Seems like the Hewitt has a lifetime warranty vs's only two years with Rutech's. Plus the fact you can actually call and speak to a person at Hewitt I'd go with Hewitt.

 

[jibskib]

Sorry to bring up this thread again but ive been trying to read up on my 0441 code, have learned a lot, but a few remaining questions:

2005 v8, went into limp mode (I think…I could get to highway speeds but significant loss of power) 2 weeks ago. Along with the SAIS ‘valves stuck open’ codes, the shop said I had a possible bad cat in the passenger manifold (they see exhaust leak, I told them I was classic 4Runner). Also could be be causing power loss. So I disconnected battery for a quick reset and lights went off the dash and power was back. Great! I’m thinking I’m a genius. Ordered a bypass kit. Here are my questions:

1) Bypass kit isn’t getting here until after thanksgiving and I have 300ish miles to drive. It’s generally been below 30 deg here but lights came back the next day, power is fine. Isn’t the system not supposed to go off in the cold?

2) Some have said they are ‘able to get the valves closed’ before they work on it. How do they know?

3) am I going to make things worse getting on the interstate for a couple hours? Is it any help to pull the battery to reset if it starts limping again or will that not matter bc valves are still open?

Thanks! Forum has been immensely helpful.

 

[jibskib]

Edit/update to above post: 1441/1444 codes. Also 0430 but hopefully better after clearing 144- and bypass?

Supposed to be leaving tonight. Do I need to rent a car for my trip?

 

[slyfox75]

Edit/update to above post: 1441/1444 codes. Also 0430 but hopefully better after clearing 144- and bypass?

Supposed to be leaving tonight. Do I need to rent a car for my trip?

So.....if the valves are open per the codes, you are most likely going to go back into limp mode.....until you get the bypass and plates installed.
You should be able to test this locally though before you get on the road for the long trip. I would drive around town, get up to 65-70 for 5+ minutes and you will know pretty quick if its going to go into limp. Its odd they BOTH came on at exact same time.

Anyone reading.....PLEASE do yourself a favor and bypass BEFORE you end up like this guy. I cant tell you how many folks have ruined trips/vacations/holidays because these things for whatever reason seem to hit on the most inconvenient times.

 

[slyfox75]

And Limp is caused by a backflow of exhaust gas to some pressure sensors on the manifold area. Thus we use plates to block that flow. Bypass alone wont fix limp. And yes the "system" wont come on under 40F or so but the "system" doesn't include those pressure sensors. So you may start up fine.....but limp is still possible.

 

[keneko]

So.....if the valves are open per the codes, you are most likely going to go back into limp mode.....until you get the bypass and plates installed.
You should be able to test this locally though before you get on the road for the long trip. I would drive around town, get up to 65-70 for 5+ minutes and you will know pretty quick if its going to go into limp. Its odd they BOTH came on at exact same time.

Anyone reading.....PLEASE do yourself a favor and bypass BEFORE you end up like this guy. I cant tell you how many folks have ruined trips/vacations/holidays because these things for whatever reason seem to hit on the most inconvenient times.

is this something that is pretty much guaranteed to happen to the v8's? i just purchased an '03 V8 with 165k on the clock. so far no issues and i'd like to keep it at that

 

[slyfox75]

is this something that is pretty much guaranteed to happen to the v8's? i just purchased an '03 V8 with 165k on the clock. so far no issues and i'd like to keep it at that

2005 and up. Specific to 2UZ FE VVTI equipped engines.

 

[keneko]

Oh awesome that’s rather reassuring. Knew I picked a good year

 

[vr4z06gt]

I ended up replacing the pump and secondary air injection control valve. This didn't take too long, maybe 2 hours start to finish. Parts cost was ~$300 (dorman pump and valve + OEM gaskets). I didn't replace the check valves as I could see the vanes missing from the pump head and intake cleaner foam didn't make it past the intake of the injection valve. Replacing the check valves appeared to by far the worst of the job, if I were to replace everything as suggested by most posts. I am sure the aftermarket bypass kits would work just fine but for the price and relative ease I figured replacing the defective parts would be easier than try to defeat the system and having to deal with it later (replace again, emissions test, sell the truck).

 

[MarkJ65]

I've had the slyfox kit installed in my '08 now for over a year, and out of the blue now I'm getting a P011B error code, which of course makes the dash light up with traction and VSC lights.

I believe it's throwing the error, due to the difference between the IAT and the coolant temperature. Weird though it hasn't caused me any issues for over an year now.

Any thoughts, I know there was discussion on '08's potentially having differences in the ECU or hardware.

Did you get a resolution on this?
I have experiencing the same problem
Please let me know - [email protected]

 

[JoshuaHufford]

Quick question for those of you who have installed the bypass kit from Jeff. I installed the kit on mine a couple years ago and it fixed the problem.

I'm probably going to have to take my 07 V8 to a mechanic for another problem and I want to be up front with the mechanic when I take it in so they aren't looking at the extra wire and wondering what it is. How do you explain this modification and did they take it? Did it cause any problems?

Thanks!

 

[dedlewamp]

Did you get a resolution on this?
I have experiencing the same problem
Please let me know - [email protected]

Hey Mark

I believe the culprit for my code was due to a poor crimp on one of the connections. When I was inspecting everything, one of the wires, I believe it was the 12v positive, was broken and causing intermittent power to the relay.

I've rewired the connections with a proper solder and heat shrink terminal, and haven't had an error code since. Feel free to message me if you have questions!

 

[_BMC_]

Hey all,
I've had the Hewitt kit installed for a few years now with zero issues until just the other week.

I keep getting P0113 code, IAT error code.

Took it to my local Toyo Tech guys here in Atlanta this morning and they think it might be an issue with the bypass kit causing the error.

I have about 175k on the motor and no issues until recently as noted above.

I've also seen talk about the factory wiring crimps being weak over time and causing the issue.

Could my MAF actually be bad or is it more likely that there's a short in the factory loom or in the Hewitt kit?

I've cleaned both the MAF with electrical cleaner as well as all the connectors.

I'd rather not drop the money on a new bypass kit or MAF but I also don't know what to look for in terms of bad connections on the loom. The thread I read wasn't clear about what connectors were bad.

TIA,
Brian

 

[AuSeeker]

Hey all,
I've had the Hewitt kit installed for a few years now with zero issues until just the other week.

I keep getting P0113 code, IAT error code.

Took it to my local Toyo Tech guys here in Atlanta this morning and they think it might be an issue with the bypass kit causing the error.

I have about 175k on the motor and no issues until recently as noted above.

I've also seen talk about the factory wiring crimps being weak over time and causing the issue.

Could my MAF actually be bad or is it more likely that there's a short in the factory loom or in the Hewitt kit?

I've cleaned both the MAF with electrical cleaner as well as all the connectors.

I'd rather not drop the money on a new bypass kit or MAF but I also don't know what to look for in terms of bad connections on the loom. The thread I read wasn't clear about what connectors were bad.

TIA,
Brian

Just an FYI, you need to only use "MAF cleaner" to clean the MAF sensor, using anything else can damage the sensor!!