Do you have the truck or it's at the mechanic? Easy test. Warm up the truck. Remove/unwire the bypass. Stop and clear codes(battery or scanner methods). With engine still hot and truck "back like stock"(no bypass) start it up. See if you get 0113. If you do......its not the bypass.
Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!
- Thread starter Billynath1988
- Start date
Do you have the truck or it's at the mechanic? Easy test. Warm up the truck. Remove/unwire the bypass. Stop and clear codes(battery or scanner methods). With engine still hot and truck "back like stock"(no bypass) start it up. See if you get 0113. If you do......its not the bypass.
Thanks! Yes, I have the truck back. I'll give that shot tomorrow and follow up with results.
Turns out I must have an older version of the kit as it is all tapped into the original wiring harness. It's not the plug and play version so I can't easily disconnect the bypass and try your suggestion...
Shiftless Joe
Member
Sounds like the road I went down, and my vehicle would randomly shutdown while turning or stopping, and/or throw MAF codes. Tried new MAF's and cleaned the TB, it still randomly died, sometimes throwing a code, sometimes not.
I decided to unplug my Hewitt Tech as a last resort, and haven't had an issue in over 6 months. I left it mounted in the engine bay just in case a smog pump fails away from home.
P2445 won’t go away
I could use some advice from you guys. My air pump disintegrated and self destructed. I replaced the pump, mixer valve, the two check valves, and even the driver for the saip. I thought about the bypasses but have heard about cold weather glitches. Any thoughts?
(2006 4.7 4Runner)
I could use some advice from you guys. My air pump disintegrated and self destructed. I replaced the pump, mixer valve, the two check valves, and even the driver for the saip. I thought about the bypasses but have heard about cold weather glitches. Any thoughts?
(2006 4.7 4Runner)
toyo
Member
Make sure you remove the wheel and go in from the wheel well. Spray the flange/bolt with some good rust penetrate and let it do its work for a little bit. Where did the bolt break? You might need to completely remove the pipe going to it, then you should have at least 1/4 inch of bolt to work with. Get a good stud extractor kit and remove it. I have good luck with the Irwin brand of stud removers.
Ditto. Same here. Snapped first stud on driver side so just left it without blocking plate. No exhaust leak noise so far with the other stud+nut in place.
Passenger side was a lot less rusty than driver side. PB Blaster 1 night on driver side wasn't enough. Probably should have used Freeze off.
Luckily no code was present at time of SAIS bypass so the SAIS valve is closed anyways.
Used Slyfox75 kit (very complete, down to the zip ties haha)
Hitmanhink
New member
Does anyone know what the torque setting is on the nuts when installing the block-off plates?
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Hitmanhink
New member
Just a follow up in case anyone is ever curious, I called Hewittech they said about 9ft/lbs
MIL P1441 and P1444 only on 2005
Hey everyone, I could use some advice on my situation. I appreciate any feedback and I am sorry if this is a bit of a long post.
I bought a 2005 totally stock 4.7l V8 4Runner about 6 months ago. It has about 160,000 miles. I was aware of the secondary air injection issues and my intention was to buy one of the bypass kits, but I have not done it yet. A few weeks ago I fired up my 4Runner and I after about 30 seconds, got the CEL/MIL light. I promptly turned it off. I checked the codes and it only had P1441 and P1444.
I am a little confused by this. It seems strange because from what I have been reading, most of the time it throws only one of these or in combination with other codes like a P2440. I could be wrong, reading the documentation is a little confusing to me.
I cleared the codes and have been driving it for about two weeks and the MIL light has not come back on. I don't hear any strange pump sounds, and it seems to run perfect.
I guess my questions are to someone who knows more about this than me.
Is it possible that there isn't really a physical problem if the codes don't come back? For example, could the valves have been sensed stuck open but then "unstuck" themselves? The temperature in my location hasn't been cold.
I guess I have a few options going forward. I could do nothing and see if the codes come back. However this feels like operating on borrowed time. Eventually this will need to be taken care of.
I could install a bypass kit, but I am not sure which one to buy since the codes aren't coming back yet.
I could replace all the SAI parts with OEM ones. I preemptively bought all the parts, but if I don't have to replace them, I guess I would rather not.
I live in California, and all the bypass kits have disclaimers that its not legal to modify the SMOG equipment and that these are for off road use only. I realize that this is CYA, but our SMOG check stations are really uptight about mods. This makes me lean towards just replacing all the parts with the expectation that I wont have to worry about this again for a long time.
Thanks for any help and advice.
Hey everyone, I could use some advice on my situation. I appreciate any feedback and I am sorry if this is a bit of a long post.
I bought a 2005 totally stock 4.7l V8 4Runner about 6 months ago. It has about 160,000 miles. I was aware of the secondary air injection issues and my intention was to buy one of the bypass kits, but I have not done it yet. A few weeks ago I fired up my 4Runner and I after about 30 seconds, got the CEL/MIL light. I promptly turned it off. I checked the codes and it only had P1441 and P1444.
I am a little confused by this. It seems strange because from what I have been reading, most of the time it throws only one of these or in combination with other codes like a P2440. I could be wrong, reading the documentation is a little confusing to me.
I cleared the codes and have been driving it for about two weeks and the MIL light has not come back on. I don't hear any strange pump sounds, and it seems to run perfect.
I guess my questions are to someone who knows more about this than me.
Is it possible that there isn't really a physical problem if the codes don't come back? For example, could the valves have been sensed stuck open but then "unstuck" themselves? The temperature in my location hasn't been cold.
I guess I have a few options going forward. I could do nothing and see if the codes come back. However this feels like operating on borrowed time. Eventually this will need to be taken care of.
I could install a bypass kit, but I am not sure which one to buy since the codes aren't coming back yet.
I could replace all the SAI parts with OEM ones. I preemptively bought all the parts, but if I don't have to replace them, I guess I would rather not.
I live in California, and all the bypass kits have disclaimers that its not legal to modify the SMOG equipment and that these are for off road use only. I realize that this is CYA, but our SMOG check stations are really uptight about mods. This makes me lean towards just replacing all the parts with the expectation that I wont have to worry about this again for a long time.
Thanks for any help and advice.
The bypass was developed to make it so you didn't have to open up the top 1/3 of your engine and replace stuff that will fail again. Not to mention, there are MANY parts to replace and they aren't cheap. Cant tell you how many people i talk to that "replaced their pump last year" and now a valve is acting up.
Should have just bypassed.
There are MANY of these bypasses in Smog states. They will not find unless they start digging. I have never heard of a customer saying they dug around in my engine to find stuff. It wont show up to their electronics either.
In my experience, these systems fail in many ways. Year ago mine started acting up, I cleared cods, was fine for a few weeks, etc. Similar to you. OTHERS, from what they tell me, just pretty much die and come back pretty quick and stay. I CAN tell you the system WILL fail. I'm surprised you've made it this long to be honest.
I don't mean to sound "preachy".....if you want to replace all the components, obviously go for it. It a system though that doesn't help your truck, and will fail again at some point.
Should have just bypassed.
There are MANY of these bypasses in Smog states. They will not find unless they start digging. I have never heard of a customer saying they dug around in my engine to find stuff. It wont show up to their electronics either.
In my experience, these systems fail in many ways. Year ago mine started acting up, I cleared cods, was fine for a few weeks, etc. Similar to you. OTHERS, from what they tell me, just pretty much die and come back pretty quick and stay. I CAN tell you the system WILL fail. I'm surprised you've made it this long to be honest.
I don't mean to sound "preachy".....if you want to replace all the components, obviously go for it. It a system though that doesn't help your truck, and will fail again at some point.
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Billynath1988
Senior Member
Glad to see this thread is alive and well and still helping out people.
I can attest, it's been almost 10 years with [MENTION=8828]slyfox75[/MENTION]'s kit, and Never had an issue again, and the way it works, I also never will. Save yourself the headache and just do this 5-minute bypass and be done with it.
Pic for attention
I can attest, it's been almost 10 years with [MENTION=8828]slyfox75[/MENTION]'s kit, and Never had an issue again, and the way it works, I also never will. Save yourself the headache and just do this 5-minute bypass and be done with it.
Pic for attention
Attachments
Thank you for the reply! I know this topic is pretty well covered since it applies to basically everyone with the 4.7l. When you put it like that, the decision seems pretty obvious. What I was concerned about, and was having a little difficulty sorting out was if I was already screwed since those MIL codes popped and was too late to just use one of the plug and play bypass kits. I was looking at some that required a fair bit more work once the you already had the check engine light.
Thanks for the advice. I'll return all the parts and look at a bypass kit. I'm hoping that the MIL lights were just a warning shot and the system is still working well enough that I can bypass before it totally fails.
[MENTION=8828]slyfox75[/MENTION], where can I get more info on your kit? Is it best to shoot you an email or do you have a site I can buy from?
thank you.
My email is in my signature. Yep, email is best way. I Don't do this as a "business"...... more to help people, make a simple, cheap, robust solution...... and buy and occasional adult beverage. The kit is very simple and robust.....very proven on multiple Toyota/Lexus platforms. You will have to cut 1 wire. No soldering, crimping or special tools needed. Everything is included in the kit. Plates are optional for those that need them, if not, save your money. Or buy the plates and toss them in glovebox in case needed down the road and you have them readily available. Install takes 10 mins or so. I could probably do one in less than 3 if I was in the "bypass installation Olympics"
Color instructions and my personal cell number are included inside kit if needed.
Color instructions and my personal cell number are included inside kit if needed.lol at "bypass installation Olympics". That would be a quite a thing to see a bunch of 4Runners lined up and you knocking these out like a pit crew.
Well thanks again, I retuned all the parts I bought and I will be doing the bypass. I ended up buying the Hewitt one so I didn't have to cut any wires. I'm planning on having this 4Runner till it dies, but just in case I ever need to sell it or whatever, it makes me feel a little better that I don't have to cut the wire. I know its probably an irrational concern, but it may help me sleep a little better. I did some research on your kit and its really clever. Kudos to you for figuring it out and providing a really great affordable option for people as well as good support. Those types of things make for a really great community and I as well as many others appreciate it.
Well thanks again, I retuned all the parts I bought and I will be doing the bypass. I ended up buying the Hewitt one so I didn't have to cut any wires. I'm planning on having this 4Runner till it dies, but just in case I ever need to sell it or whatever, it makes me feel a little better that I don't have to cut the wire. I know its probably an irrational concern, but it may help me sleep a little better. I did some research on your kit and its really clever. Kudos to you for figuring it out and providing a really great affordable option for people as well as good support. Those types of things make for a really great community and I as well as many others appreciate it.
robotfood540
New member
I've had the Slyfox bypass installed since 2022 with no issues, yet as I was casually driving down the highway my car went into limp mode and the CEL and VSC lights came on. I got home to my scanner and pulled the P2445 code (secondary air injection system pump stuck off bank 1). I thought maybe this would be related to the "cold weather glitch" as described on the Hewitt-Tech website, but I'm in Massachusetts and have certainly driven in cold temps (-20) without issue until now. Any idea what the issue is?
cyclingtrav
New member
I'm working on my '08 4R V8 right now that was getting P1442, P1445, P2441 with the Hewitt bypass Gen 1 installed. Turns out valve No1 went bad.
Read about my findings <a href="!312966!4th-gen-t4rs/312966-sais-check-valve-replacement-2008-4runner-4-7l-v8-words-warning.html">here</a>.
Couple things to be aware of or think about.
1) The AIP system doesn't engage under 41F anyway, so if bypass failed, the system wouldn't run anyway if you are cold starting sub 41F.(yet to have a known failure in the field BTW).
2) The cold weather glitch isnt a repeatable "normal" thing. Its very rare. So I wouldn't assume because of living in MA and it hasn't happened yet, doesn't mean it won't.....and then may never happen again(or at least be very rare). Do you have a OBD2 scanner? Not to clog up this thread but with a quick check you can look at IAT(Intak air temp) and determine of bypass is working. Email me for details if you want to track it down.
3) Rodents (it happens)
4) Bad MAF sensor. (OBD2 can check this as well)
-jeff
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