Seized Caliper Symptoms?

Saw that too.

Not that it matters. Duralast have lifetime warranties... so if you have one seize again, just replace it. Too easy of a job to worry too much.

I replaced both of my fronts with Duralast back in February and don't worry. If, in a year or two I have to speed an hour replacing them... meh.
 
Saw that too.

Not that it matters. Duralast have lifetime warranties... so if you have one seize again, just replace it. Too easy of a job to worry too much.

I replaced both of my fronts with Duralast back in February and don't worry. If, in a year or two I have to speed an hour replacing them... meh.

EXACTLY! Installing these calipers was MUCH easier than dealing with the Toyota warranty.... And I've never done brakes before haha.
 
What I do to check if I have a seized caliper is take it for a short drive, then put my hand near the rotors, you should be able to feel the heat difference between the two of them.
DONT TOUCH THE ROTORS!
 
I think I'm starting to get seized caliper symptoms again.... Just replaced in April, 2011...

I'll take the wheels off and give it a good look this weekend/soon, bit this is frustrating.

I believe we can swap in Tundra calipers n rotors if I'm not mistaken. (For sure on the 3rd gen, but I think us 4th can as well.)

If mine are frozen again, I think this is the best option, even though more money up front.
 
Go on a 30min drive at freeway speeds then park the car. Put your hand near each wheel between the spokes of the wheel near the caliper and feel the heat difference.

If a caliper is sticking the wheel/brakes are going to be very hot, if everything is working normal the brakes should be "warm".
 
so i thought i had a caliper starting to take a dump on me, turns out it was just caked full of mud from playing off-road to much lol cleaned all the mud out and relubed the moving parts on the brake caliper an bam no more draging brakes lol. but im proud to say i have a 140,000 miles on factory calipers im astonished myself.
 
Very few companies make NEW calipers. Most are reman. Even brake companies like Wagner make few calipers. When you go to the parts store for a Wagner caliper...it's a reman.
 
If you can afford a tank of gas, you can afford rotors. The rock auto site has quality rotors for about 40-60 bucks.

Also, if your rotors have never been turned, then do that.... many places will do that for about 10 buck.

Has anyone used the rotors from RockAuto - thanks DC runner for the site, btw. They look to be really affordable, any comments?
 
There's nothing wrong with Reman parts. They are usually just as good or in some cases even better. Most of the caliper is a cast steel. That part should last 30-40 years. The moving parts and seals are the components that break or wear-out. Now sometimes you have a design flaw that even replacing the worn parts it's NOT going to fix the design flaw.
 
have slight steering shakes when braking at speeds over 60mph............shud i be thinkink seized calipers?..or warped rotors? 05 sr5 with 115kmiles on them

guess am too much of a noobb, didnt see anything obvious in the siezed caliper pic above :)
 
have slight steering shakes when braking at speeds over 60mph............shud i be thinkink seized calipers?..or warped rotors? 05 sr5 with 115kmiles on them

guess am too much of a noobb, didnt see anything obvious in the siezed caliper pic above :)

shakes are probably warped rotor. siezed caliper means it's going to be putting pressure on the brake pads brakes (and therefore braking) all the time. the position that the seized caliper freezes in also effects the symptoms of a frozen caliper. it could be barely noticeable or you could be having terrible gas mileage and the car always drifting in one direction.
 
my mileage is decent...i think,
..did 200miles and my needle was on halfway,from a full tank though saw a light greyish dust on the wheels after a 500 mile drive, rims are a bit uniformly hot after a 70mile drive...i normally drive btw 55mph and 85mph..averaging about 70mph
 
my mileage is decent...i think,
..did 200miles and my needle was on halfway,from a full tank though saw a light greyish dust on the wheels after a 500 mile drive, rims are a bit uniformly hot after a 70mile drive...i normally drive btw 55mph and 85mph..averaging about 70mph

Warped. Been fighting this issue too. Go to autozone and grab calipers, pads, and rotors.

Did mine the other day
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I recently went to grease my shaft and as normal I had it in neutral and went to roll the trck and that's how I knew the callipers were siezed! Also a slight pull to one side, and I noticed after a bit more hp which is a nice find! I had to do both front sets. I'll do the rear another day but they are acceptable.
 
I recently went to grease my shaft and as normal I had it in neutral and went to roll the trck and that's how I knew the callipers were siezed! Also a slight pull to one side, and I noticed after a bit more hp which is a nice find! I had to do both front sets. I'll do the rear another day but they are acceptable.

I went to change the pads last year, tried to reset the pistons and they wouldn't budge. Ended up having to borrow my dads car to get calipers. Been fine for a year, but now the right side is starting to hang up a little :/
 
My 2007 SR5 V8 had a seized driver front caliper.

The symptoms were:
Intermittent dragging, pulling to the left, high vibrations in steering wheel at 50+ mph. Then, without any reason, it would unseize and the car would be smoothe and straight.

I bought a set of calipers at Napa Auto Parts, $129 each with $30 core return, a new set of L+R brake pads for $80, and DOT 3 brake fluid.

I had the wheel off and could not break the 17mm bolts holding on the caliper loose. A week later, I took the wheel off again and tried soaking the bolt in loosening solvent and tried again but this time bought a Kobalt pneumatic impact air wrench rated at 700 ft/lbs torque. Nice wrench for $80. But it didn't break the bolts free. I even tried heating it up with a torch. Still no good.

Before I did any damage I'd regret (i.e. break the bolt head off), I gave up and took the 4Runner to a mechanic. They had good Yelp ratings, Fallon Automotive in Sterling, VA. Their mechanic confirmed it was a seized caliper. They said they had the parts, and quoted me $592 to replace the left caliper, new L+R brake pads, and new L+R rotors, and it would be done in 2 hours.

Also they included 2-year parts and labor warranty. They said if they used my NAPA parts, there would be no warranty on parts or labor. Going to try and return the NAPA parts tomorrow.

Certainly more than if I did it myself, but I tried to do it myself but could not get those bolts off.
 
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I bought an old 6pt 17mm (14" long) wrench off ebay and got both sides off with a little help from a hammer.

No road salt in my world is what probably makes all the difference.
 
Warped rotors. They need to either be machined or replaced - most likely replaced. It will continue to worsen until you fix it, so I highly recommend addressing it.


Considering it puts more than necessary wear on your CV joints and tie rods too, addressing it soon is definitely a must.
 

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