MTD
New member
Fair enough. I must have missed his post, but it still doesn't change the fact the that you replied to every single one again which was slightly unnecessary..
Serious Frame Rust Questoin
- Thread starter PSUArcher
- Start date
Fair enough. I must have missed his post, but it still doesn't change the fact the that you replied to every single one again which was slightly unnecessary..
MTD
New member
At least I only commented once lol, what ever stuff happens, that's what I get for half butt reading the forums when I should be studying for DME
Last edited:
Genuine Issue
Hi All,
I've been trawling the Forums here for a couple years since I bought my 3rd gen 2000 SR5 w/5speed, but this is my first post. Not to "revive" this thread from the dead, however I have a genuine issue.
The other day while driving home, my passenger side rear suspension linkage disconnected from the frame, leaving the transfer case floating. This happened due to the fact that the frame has rusted completely through, as you'll see in the picture.
I'm the second owner of the vehicle, and unfortunately the first owner did not take proper enough care of the frame and underbody (as I also have pumpkin/rear diff issues and have rebuilt it, however that's another story).
As of right now I'm upside down in the 'Runner as I still owe just shy of $1200 on it. I really love the truck and am not sure what do do with it.
I was quoted ~$800 to repair the issue I've posted, however I need to get under it and decide if it's worth keeping when I get it repaired (as that's the only way to obtain any sort of trade in value for it and not take an immense loss imo) I need to call my insurance company, now that I think about it and see what, if anything they have to say.
Opinions welcome. Those of you who have done the weld repairs, (Wallace) how are they holding up? How much did you end up spending in entirety on the frame welding jobs? I absolutely love the truck and don't want to lose it, however there comes a point where I need to cut and run, so right now I'm deciding if I'm there or if it's salvageable.
I'll add some more photos in the next day or two when I get back to the truck and gather more.
Thanks in advance
Hi All,
I've been trawling the Forums here for a couple years since I bought my 3rd gen 2000 SR5 w/5speed, but this is my first post. Not to "revive" this thread from the dead, however I have a genuine issue.
The other day while driving home, my passenger side rear suspension linkage disconnected from the frame, leaving the transfer case floating. This happened due to the fact that the frame has rusted completely through, as you'll see in the picture.
I'm the second owner of the vehicle, and unfortunately the first owner did not take proper enough care of the frame and underbody (as I also have pumpkin/rear diff issues and have rebuilt it, however that's another story).
As of right now I'm upside down in the 'Runner as I still owe just shy of $1200 on it. I really love the truck and am not sure what do do with it.
I was quoted ~$800 to repair the issue I've posted, however I need to get under it and decide if it's worth keeping when I get it repaired (as that's the only way to obtain any sort of trade in value for it and not take an immense loss imo) I need to call my insurance company, now that I think about it and see what, if anything they have to say.
Opinions welcome. Those of you who have done the weld repairs, (Wallace) how are they holding up? How much did you end up spending in entirety on the frame welding jobs? I absolutely love the truck and don't want to lose it, however there comes a point where I need to cut and run, so right now I'm deciding if I'm there or if it's salvageable.
I'll add some more photos in the next day or two when I get back to the truck and gather more.
Thanks in advance
Attachments
nc-grayson
Member
no first hand experience here but I know others have successfully re-welded their rear lower arm mounts. Passenger side is like the most common rust point on our 3rd gens. There should be a plenty out there that have had similar results!
MStudt
official vendor
You're going to need to inspect the frame. With ripping the mount completely off you have some substantial rust on, and in the frame. Get under it with a brick hammer or something to poke with. Start poking around to so how far the rust goes back, and how far it goes forward. For less than $800 you can buy a welder, metal, and fix it yourself. I've had to cut a section of frame out for repair, and plan on cutting out more after this winter. I would just be concerned with the amount of rust you're going to have.
Frame Rust
First time poster, long time reader.
I have an 01 Runner with some rust on the frame (back right passenger side just in front of the wheel)....Pictures attached.
My questions is does anyone know a good place to get this fixed in the Kansas City OR Atlanta, Georgia area? I know those places are far apart!
First time poster, long time reader.
I have an 01 Runner with some rust on the frame (back right passenger side just in front of the wheel)....Pictures attached.
My questions is does anyone know a good place to get this fixed in the Kansas City OR Atlanta, Georgia area? I know those places are far apart!
Attachments
Well I finally took it in and the shop to which I took the runner for repair (Northwest Frame & Alignment, located in Zionsville, IND) was about spot on with the quote. I will add some photos of the repair work in the next couple of days
He originally quoted me ~$800. The welding job itself for the frame repair was $750 and I had him do an alignment while working on it, for which he charged $63. All tolled I was out the door for $813.
The vehicle has 157,5xx miles on it.
Now that it's out I need the right rear wheel bearing replaced, I've been quoted $553 from Indianapolis Rack & Axle. This sounds reasonable given, the work I now know is required (not just a simple repack of the bearing), however I'm hesitant to get the work done, because I:
a. don't know if the left side will need it (I'd guess it would in the near future, and seeing as I'm doing the right side I would like the wear to be even and do both sides.
b. If this is the case I'm not sure I want to do both sides due to the fact that my rear differential still leaks diff. fluid (slowly - top it off about once every 3k during the oil change, it's usually about a pint low) ever since the rebuild. This is due to the fact that when I had it rebuilt, the guy who did the work somehow didn't realize that the pumpkin leaks...I was pretty livid when I found this out.
Therefore I'm looking for suggestions/advice on what to do. What I would like to do is completely replace the axle and rear differential with either a new one (which i'm not sure are available at this juncture) or one from another vehicle. Am I correct in thinking that this would solve not only the diff. problem, but my wheel bearing issues as well? I've not had a chance to break into my Haines Manual yet.
This is probably getting into the $2k+ range for work done and parts (which I'm not adverse to paying if it completely solves all my rear end issues. I believe I've found one from carmonkeys.com with what I believe is the proper ratio 4.10 (i'm doing further research and am most likely just going to do the spin-test to confirm.)
This seems like in the long run it would make the most sense, although it will be the most expensive right now, out of the gate. - takes care of my wheel bearing issues, the differential leaking/pumpkin issue and comes with a 5 year warranty on the parts.
The "cheap" (being that I'd have to put the work on a credit card atm) part of me wants to just spend the $550 to get back on the road, but then I enter the unknown as far as the left wheel bearing and haven't solved the leaky diff. pumpkin issue either.
So thoughts, advice, and suggestions on where to locate parts (axle and diff housing as close to 'new' as feasible for a reasonable price) welcome, Please and Thanks!
He originally quoted me ~$800. The welding job itself for the frame repair was $750 and I had him do an alignment while working on it, for which he charged $63. All tolled I was out the door for $813.
The vehicle has 157,5xx miles on it.
Now that it's out I need the right rear wheel bearing replaced, I've been quoted $553 from Indianapolis Rack & Axle. This sounds reasonable given, the work I now know is required (not just a simple repack of the bearing), however I'm hesitant to get the work done, because I:
a. don't know if the left side will need it (I'd guess it would in the near future, and seeing as I'm doing the right side I would like the wear to be even and do both sides.
b. If this is the case I'm not sure I want to do both sides due to the fact that my rear differential still leaks diff. fluid (slowly - top it off about once every 3k during the oil change, it's usually about a pint low) ever since the rebuild. This is due to the fact that when I had it rebuilt, the guy who did the work somehow didn't realize that the pumpkin leaks...I was pretty livid when I found this out.
Therefore I'm looking for suggestions/advice on what to do. What I would like to do is completely replace the axle and rear differential with either a new one (which i'm not sure are available at this juncture) or one from another vehicle. Am I correct in thinking that this would solve not only the diff. problem, but my wheel bearing issues as well? I've not had a chance to break into my Haines Manual yet.
This is probably getting into the $2k+ range for work done and parts (which I'm not adverse to paying if it completely solves all my rear end issues. I believe I've found one from carmonkeys.com with what I believe is the proper ratio 4.10 (i'm doing further research and am most likely just going to do the spin-test to confirm.)
This seems like in the long run it would make the most sense, although it will be the most expensive right now, out of the gate. - takes care of my wheel bearing issues, the differential leaking/pumpkin issue and comes with a 5 year warranty on the parts.
The "cheap" (being that I'd have to put the work on a credit card atm) part of me wants to just spend the $550 to get back on the road, but then I enter the unknown as far as the left wheel bearing and haven't solved the leaky diff. pumpkin issue either.
So thoughts, advice, and suggestions on where to locate parts (axle and diff housing as close to 'new' as feasible for a reasonable price) welcome, Please and Thanks!
Hoots Magoon
New member
- Have your shop pull both axels, and remove the rear diff gears.
- Then cut off the leaking rear diff housing and hot pressure wash all the grease/oil/gunk off.
- After the axel housing is spotless, weld on a Barnes Heavy Duty Diff Cover. Make sure fill is on top. If it is on the bottom you will only be able to put in about 1/3 of the needed gear oil. (Don't ask how I know.)
- Have it pressure tested to make sure it doesn't leak.
- Reinstall internals with new seals/parts as needed.
Barnes Link
Hoots Magoon
New member
You would have to ask your mech.
a grand, 1,250?notmy1stbrodeo
New member
Frame rust nightmare
Hi all. I'm new to the forum. I bought a 1992 4Runner with 138k miles on it. I'm nervous to admit it's the first vehicle that old that I've ever bought. I didn't do my due diligence in inspecting the vehicle.
The frame is rusted so badly on the rear, driver's side that the shock mount and the spring are either broken or bent so badly that two welding shops have said it's unfixable.
Are there frame sections for sale that I can buy and I'm just not finding them. I can weld, and weld well, but I'd rather put it in the hands of someone who does it everyday and has the facility to do so.
This is my only means of transportation and I'm pretty desperate to get it repaired and done correctly.
Thanks!!!
Hi all. I'm new to the forum. I bought a 1992 4Runner with 138k miles on it. I'm nervous to admit it's the first vehicle that old that I've ever bought. I didn't do my due diligence in inspecting the vehicle.
The frame is rusted so badly on the rear, driver's side that the shock mount and the spring are either broken or bent so badly that two welding shops have said it's unfixable.
Are there frame sections for sale that I can buy and I'm just not finding them. I can weld, and weld well, but I'd rather put it in the hands of someone who does it everyday and has the facility to do so.
This is my only means of transportation and I'm pretty desperate to get it repaired and done correctly.
Thanks!!!
