She aint putting out!!

Bad_Vision said:
tdi swap for only 1800....just saying.
that sucks man, what about warranty from the build?
Click to expand...

The last thing I'm doing is putting a VW in a toyota... I might as well a chevy swap.

As far as the warranty, I built the motor. How do I prove that a machinist that is 1000 miles away botched the machine work? I'm at a loss, the best thing that I can do is to drive it till it dies... BBC did a good job of showing me that I can drive it for a long time :D

I get to save my pennies till I can do a supra swap or a 3.4 swap.
 
100% sounds kinda strange... did you have the cylinder at TDC compression? You could have been at TDC exhaust making it leak out of the exhaust of course. Your compression test should have been way low for it to produce a 100% loss on the leak down.
 
Oh and blingidy blang!

f387d211.jpg~original
 
Nate, your blazer is looking sweet!!

After seeing the BBC thing again on how to kill a toyota kind of makes me want to rebuild a 22re and slap it in there. I'm going on the assumption that I have always had a problem because I have never felt that my motor put out what is should have. But for all I know I can put in a proper 22re and have enough power for me. I'm not looking for a race car, I'm just looking to have enough power to comfortably get around.

@ Nate: My #1 piston was at TDC and I even pulled the valve cover to visually see the cam and feel the rocker arms have enough play to not move the valve springs.

I measured the rocker arms for the valve lash and they were spot on at .007 for the intake and .009 for the exhaust. Yes, 7 and 9 thousandths for the 268 cam.
 
I had some guy put my brand new 3. SLOW in mine 2 winters ago. He drove semi's and did swaps and stuff on the side for dirt cheap. It has been constantly misfiring since and my rear main seal is out... But hey, good thing I have a two year warranty right?? WRONG. I couldn't contact the guy for over a year until I found out he was sent to prison for a meth bust. Kinda funny but sucks for me.

So SV, at least I'm running on 1 more cylinder! :nono:
 
seen this happen a few times with other motors. rebuilt top end and the bottom end blows out. you should have freshen up the bottom end as well with new rings. before the partial rebuild, it was weak top and bottom. now that you have a fresh top end, it is much stronger and putting more pressure on the bottom end.
the leak down can tell you where the leak is at. i dont think your doing the leak down right because at 100% leak means you have a dead cylinder.
you need to turn the cylinder your testing till it closes all the valves and when you apply air the crank doesnt turn, if it does the valves open and your leaking. the air pressure can be enough to push the piston down, you dont want this when doing a leak down.
once the valves are known to be closed and you have air pumping in. listen at the oil cap for air, radiator cap for bubbles, intake for air and exhaust pipe for air. depending on where air is coming out will tell you what is leaking.

your compression doesnt look bad other than its not as even as it should. with the engine warm, do another compression test and record readings. than drop a few drops of oil in each spark plug hole and retest, if it jumps up, than its mostly rings which is what im gonna say is your problem. you shouldnt be burning really any oil in a 22r or re.
 
ToyoTech said:
seen this happen a few times with other motors. rebuilt top end and the bottom end blows out. you should have freshen up the bottom end as well with new rings. before the partial rebuild, it was weak top and bottom. now that you have a fresh top end, it is much stronger and putting more pressure on the bottom end.
the leak down can tell you where the leak is at. i dont think your doing the leak down right because at 100% leak means you have a dead cylinder.
you need to turn the cylinder your testing till it closes all the valves and when you apply air the crank doesnt turn, if it does the valves open and your leaking. the air pressure can be enough to push the piston down, you dont want this when doing a leak down.
once the valves are known to be closed and you have air pumping in. listen at the oil cap for air, radiator cap for bubbles, intake for air and exhaust pipe for air. depending on where air is coming out will tell you what is leaking.

your compression doesnt look bad other than its not as even as it should. with the engine warm, do another compression test and record readings. than drop a few drops of oil in each spark plug hole and retest, if it jumps up, than its mostly rings which is what im gonna say is your problem. you shouldnt be burning really any oil in a 22r or re.
Click to expand...

Did you read the whole thread?

I have a BRAND NEW engine. New internals (crank, pistons, connecting rods, etc.), new head, freshly machined block and basically everything under the hood is brand spanking new.

I did the leak down test right. I even pulled the valve cover and verified that the rocker arms have free play in them to see for 100% that the valves are closed. The piston was at TDC as well.

I did not however add oil to the cylinders but I figured that wouldn't really help at all seeing as I need to pull the engine apart anyways.

As far as the 22re/r not burning oil... HA! Come see my engine. It burns a LOT!! You can see all the black build up at the end of the exhaust pipe. I have a brand new exhaust system, LCE header, 2.5" piping all the way back. I have no cat and a brand new muffler.
 
when you did the leak down did you listen to find out where the air was going? It might not be as bad as you are thinking... then again you might be totally f-ed.
 
GonOvr said:
when you did the leak down did you listen to find out where the air was going? It might not be as bad as you are thinking... then again you might be totally f-ed.
Click to expand...

I couldn't figure out where the air was coming from. I had to turn the regulator up quite a bit to hear the air escaping. There wasn't any air coming from the radiator, no air from the throttle body, and I had the valve cover off so I couldn't tell if the air was coming from the valves but I didn't feel any air coming from the valves.

The only other thing I could think was air escaping into the oil pan area from the piston rings. Any idea on how to check that?
 
Could this all be from a head gasket? I'm thinking positive here for a second. What if the head gasket failed in a few spots and is allowing air to escape from one cylinder to another and also allowing oil to move from one passage and into the cylinder/cylinders?
 
SV_Dude said:
Did you read the whole thread?

I have a BRAND NEW engine. New internals (crank, pistons, connecting rods, etc.), new head, freshly machined block and basically everything under the hood is brand spanking new.

I did the leak down test right. I even pulled the valve cover and verified that the rocker arms have free play in them to see for 100% that the valves are closed. The piston was at TDC as well.

I did not however add oil to the cylinders but I figured that wouldn't really help at all seeing as I need to pull the engine apart anyways.

As far as the 22re/r not burning oil... HA! Come see my engine. It burns a LOT!! You can see all the black build up at the end of the exhaust pipe. I have a brand new exhaust system, LCE header, 2.5" piping all the way back. I have no cat and a brand new muffler.
Click to expand...

woops. i did skim thru it. i just saw new heads and kinda figure you just did the top end. well this is odd with only 8k on the motor and its already failing. you need to leave the valve cover on and open the oil cap. listen or feel for air. if there is air than it could be rings. maybe they didnt sit correctly. you just need to put your hands over the oil filler area, intake, exhaust and look for bubbles in radiator with cap off.
 
I had another buddy drive my 4runner today and he agreed with me. I have a serious lack of power and we think that I'm only really running on 2 or 3 cylinders. I'm going to tear the motor apart today. I'll post up whatever the failure was as soon as I find out what the issue is.

My guess is either a bad head gasket, piston rings failed or the machinist botched the machine work when he bored the engine.
 
So, I called and talked to one of the guys at engnbldr in Oregon. He suggested something that I never even thought about. I had the engine block decked about .010. I never had the timing chain cover decked with it. That .010 is just enough of a gap to destroy a head gasket and give me the compression numbers that I'm getting between the #1 and #4 cylinders. He is suggesting that the head is sitting high on the front of the engine because of that .010 gap and explains why I have a lower compression towards the front of the engine, #1 cylinder not holding pressure, engine using oil (oil galley near the #1 piston), and no power because the #1 and #2 cylinders don't have a very good seal around the head gasket.

Interesting... This gives me another avenue to investigate when I tear apart my engine.

BTW: For anyone considering using engnbldr.com, go for it! They have been extremely helpful for anything I have ever needed. Their customer service is phenomenal!!
 
So I have everything taken apart with the exception of the head bolts. I did just find out that either I put my timing chain on wrong or it jumped a tooth. I'm going to assume that I put it on wrong because I don't see it jumping teeth this early in its life. With the crank at tdc, the cam is also at tdc when it should be at the 1100-1130 position.

S6300747.jpg~original


S6300746.jpg~original


This would explain a little bit of a loss of power but not the ascending compression numbers not the horrible leak down test especially when I'm able to move the rocker arms when testing that associated cylinder.

I'm taking the head off soon and will take a peek at the head gasket and the pistons/cylinders.
 
More bad news... I take off the head bolts and get ready to pull the rocker arms and it starts dumping rain!!! ARGH!!!

I took off the head bolts and found the brown milk shake on the #8 head bolt. I drained the oil before I did all of this and I didn't have any milkshake in the oil pan, but to me this is a sign of the head gasket getting ready to completely fail. Once the rain stops I'll pull the head and see what all this hype is all about.
 
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