She finally croaked....

steanson

Member
226,000 miles on the '97 Ltd.
Started overheating...and blowing hoses. Like, blowing them OFF, not bursting.
Haven't had heat in 2 winters...there IS NO COOLANT FLOW through the temp slider switch on the firewall. SO, I ran a flush. And forgot. (Paramedic working 24's, it started running great, and I just left it in :cry: ) Gunked up, overheated again. Engine shuts down.

STILL get a #5 cylinder miss (been throwing that one since I bought it in 2006), and "engine temperature sensor failure" code. I don't have time on 24's to work on it...so while I was at work, my pops towed it to a shop and asked for an estimate of everything it needed. Did I mention I paid $7k in 2006, cash?

Anyway, after we got the estimate, It's been towed back to my driveway. $11,000.00 LMAO!!! I think I will start with the coolant woes...another flush (proper), THERMOSTAT, and engine temperature sensor. The shop is certain I have a cracked block, warped head, or blown head gasket. No oil in water, or water in oil, but heavy moisture out the tailpipe, and it goes "Chugga...Chugga.. Chugga...Chugga..." It def is missing (likely that #5, that was oil soaked last spark plug change). Thoughts to help keep my baby alive? I will never sell this one!!! I'm going to finally name her Jaime...as in Jaime Somers, the Bionic Woman, after I finish all her repairs and upgrades. haha
 

Attachments

  • invoicep2a2bbbb1.jpg
    invoicep2a2bbbb1.jpg
    125.4 KB · Views: 619
  • invoicep2a2aaa.jpg
    invoicep2a2aaa.jpg
    137.8 KB · Views: 673
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Yes, it needs ALL that stuff (although there are double redundancies if they replaced the engine), but I think I can knock out most for less. Did they say BRAKES? Sounds like time for the Tundra swap!
 
1) You are all over the place man. Prioritize, write more clearly. If you have a cracked block, the symptoms will exhibit themselves shortly. You won't have to guess... Especially if they are saying the engine is toast

2) $600 for the front brakes? I paid a guy $80 plus parts to do my front brakes
 
that's kinda my point.
And sorry I am all over the place...I'm going on 48 hours with no sleep, and wanted to just do bullet points of the progression of the problems.
My apologies.
 
Last edited:
Don't let them do that work for those prices..that's just ridiculous. I would HATE to see someone pay $136 for a differential drain and refill, after knowing how ridiculously easy it is (literally 2 bolts, maybe 10 minutes for each).

Fuel filter? $40 if I remember correctly, also two bolts.

They're trying to kill you here in shop prices. If it really does need a new engine, so-be-it, but you COULD source your own one for cheap (either part-out from CL, or Car-Part.com, something similar to that). I'm not saying to give up on it, because I know I would keep my baby running even if the engine crapped out.

The block test should be a pretty good indicator that SOMETHING is up (it "sniffs" the gases coming out of the radiator cap for exhaust fumes, letting you know that the exhaust fumes are somehow making it into the cooling system).

It could be as simple as a head gasket failure. I mean, that would still suck, but it would suck a lot less that a cracked block. Maybe get them to do a leakdown test, which should help them pinpoint the exact source of the leak.

Just checked Car-Part in my area (Atlanta) and found a 3.4 with 51k on it for $1,200 with warranty (probably a crappy 30 or 90-day warranty, but still). Add maybe $800 to install..and you should be good.

You can chip away at the smaller stuff (front brakes / suspension / etc) in your free time (if you work 24's you must have 48 off, right?). Just watch some YouTube videos and get cracking. Please don't drop $11k. That's like..a downpayment on a house.
 
Find a used engine: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. Pay a shop less than $800 to yank out the old one and install the new used one. I'd say no more than $1500 to $1700 spent all together.

I am just curious why they are using two types of the wrong kind of coolant for your 4runner (green and universal).

I'd say let those idiots from Gas Monkey take a stab at it. Then again, ah no way.
 
Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... Take a deep breath. This is what I call a Total it inspection, sometimes u get these techs or garages looking to make a buck and put all these questionable services down just because yea it may need some of those thing but with out a history to base it off of its all fair game. I've seen this type of stuff when I was first starting out working for a firestone as a apprentice tech. Basically they hit u with a high number crazy to do list and hope u choose to do bites and pieces of the services its never actually needed its kinda like a money making scam.
 
There is absolutely nothing urgent to do the things in the first invoice. The only thing you might want to do is the front brakes. Get OEM brake pads from the dealer. They stop really really well then any aftermarket crap no matter how good those are called "premium etc.," Some ceramic pads make noise upon braking. I got 2 of my friends redoing the pads with OEm after going with ceramic.

If you want to get a new engine, go for a JDM used engine with a guarantee. You can get JDM engine from JDM engine zone in Dallas. I have no experience with them but know they sell lot of JDM engines. Don't buy remanufactured engines. They are not even close to a JDM engine.
Find a local garage to get the engine done.

Then with time, get any remaining job at a time. Find a local mechanic (craigslist mechanics are also good).

In your last invoice, they quote for fuel injector cleaning service. When you buy a reman engine, the injectors supposed to be clean and calibrated. See how much money is ripping from you?

My break down:
You can get 5 qt diff oil for $23 which is enough for front and rear diff. They forgot to get the transfer case oil.
Power steering oil flush $20 for oil may be.
Front brake service: Pads $60 (OEM) + rotors $50 (non OEM). No need of grease seals (I am at 200K and still strong seals)
Fuel filter $32 (OEM)
Rear brakes (cleaning fluid $4 at walmart)
No need to mess with AC if you have cold blowing AC. $0.00
Get a used engine for the amount they charge to do a diagnosis!
Lower ball joints each OEM $165 at Camelback. Get a local tech to install these for $60?
Sway bar and end links $100 with labor?
Get lifetime alignment from Firestone for $180. Unlimited alignments for life!\
Brake flush: fair price
With the new engine installation, you do this, so should be free! So do the fuel injector cleaning!

Hope you'll make a wise decision.
 
Last edited:
There is absolutely nothing urgent to do the things in the first invoice. The only thing you might want to do is the front brakes. Get OEM brake pads from the dealer. They stop really really well then any aftermarket crap no matter how good those are called "premium etc.," Some ceramic pads make noise upon braking. I got 2 of my friends redoing the pads with OEm after going with ceramic.

If you want to get a new engine, go for a JDM used engine with a guarantee. You can get JDM engine from JDM engine zone in Dallas. I have no experience with them but know they sell lot of JDM engines. Don't buy remanufactured engines. They are not even close to a JDM engine.
Find a local garage to get the engine done.

Then with time, get any remaining job at a time. Find a local mechanic (craigslist mechanics are also good).

In your last invoice, they quote for fuel injector cleaning service. When you buy a reman engine, the injectors supposed to be clean and calibrated. See how much money is ripping from you?

My break down:
You can get 5 qt diff oil for $23 which is enough for front and rear diff. They forgot to get the transfer case oil.
Power steering oil flush $20 for oil may be.
Front brake service: Pads $60 (OEM) + rotors $50 (non OEM). No need of grease seals (I am at 200K and still strong seals)
Fuel filter $32 (OEM)
Rear brakes (cleaning fluid $4 at walmart)
No need to mess with AC if you have cold blowing AC. $0.00
Get a used engine for the amount they charge to do a diagnosis!
Lower ball joints each OEM $165 at Camelback. Get a local tech to install these for $60?
Sway bar and end links $100 with labor?
Get lifetime alignment from Firestone for $180. Unlimited alignments for life!\
Brake flush: fair price
With the new engine installation, you do this, so should be free! So do the fuel injector cleaning!

Hope you'll make a wise decision.

Everyone has had different experiences. Plenty of people have had crap JDM engines... even on this forum.
 
$283.76 to replace sway bar end links? Wow. Just, wow.
Anyways, I had a similar issue with my cooling system. Ridiculous system pressure, overheating, etc. Turned out to be a failing head gasket. It took awhile for it to finally give after the problems started. So I did my head gaskets. Cost me about $250 for the top end gasket set, $230 to clean and resurface and pressure test heads. Plus a couple hundred $ In odds and ends to complete the job. I did the labor myself. Though I understand you don't have the time. Just don't let a shop snake you like that. It helps to not let them know your line of work as well, i found. If they know you make good $$, they'll try to take it from you.
 
Don't let some vampire shop do that to you and your pops. It's ridiculous what they try doing to people who are at their mercy.

If you can arrange shipping or pick up, I got a 3.4 just sitting in my shop looking to find a new home...

You and pops should take a road trip up to Kentucky, bring 500.00, bring a pickup truck, haul it away, and you and pops can drop it in over a nice long weekend. Think of the bonding you guys will do.

You may have enough stuff left over you could sell and make some of that money back.
 
Last edited:
I'd say let those idiots from Gas Monkey take a stab at it. Then again, ah no way.

Apparently there's some sort of show on TV that highlights their shop. I have no idea what the show is, but I'm guessing it's like every other 'Reality' TV show, with a lot of phony, manufactured drama.

I will say this for them, they did ok running TF in Vegas this past weekend. They failed to qualify, but they did have a pass in the mid 3.80's at over 315 mph. Running a mid 3.80 does take some real ability, even if it did leave them out of the show on Sunday.

OP; That estimate is insane. I'd look elsewhere. A JDM engine is just a used engine, with an unknown history. They are a crap-shoot.
 
Last edited:
WOW!? You could get a really clean/modified 4runner for $11,500. That sounds like a "Don't want to deal with this, let me do my tuneups and brake jobs- go away" estimate.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top