She stranded me :(

[NHRunner]

After growing up in 4Runners, I never thought I'd see the day that one would strand me.

I spent a whole day out on some moderate trails off of a power line in Fredericton, NB. Every non-moving water hole was iced over with 1-3" of ice. I did about 8 miles and maybe 50 water holes that got as deep as my rockers at times. The heavy ice slabs had me concerned for my doors and bumper valence as they popped up, on the rare occasion that I really had to give 'er to break through the ice. The trails were rough and I was getting concerned with daylight disappearing and no paved roads in sight. And I was alone.





Eventually we came out at this freshly logged clearing and found the highway not far away.



It was SO nice to finally see pavement after three hours in what felt like the middle of nowhere.

UNTIL. I stepped out for a moment to throw some air in the tires before hitting the highway again, and right as I did, I heard some pressure get released from somewhere underneath and fluid pour everywhere. I saw and smelled my awful combination of green/toyotared coolant pouring out near one of the hardlines that runs to the rear heater. I knew they were corroded but should have prepared better and replaced them by now.

Here's the hole in the send line. This is the most corroded segment.



Called CAA, got a tow back to campus for only $11.30. Sweet.



After 18 years in 4Runners, this is the first time I've seen this! uke:

 

[hearno]

After 18 years in 4Runners, this is the first time I've seen this! uke:

Definitely a silver lining.

 

[NHRunner]

Now I have to replace these stupid lines. In the freezing parking lot. My plan is to cut the lines as close to the engine bay as I can conveniently reach, and replace both segments with (3/8") rubber fuel line. Probably try to hide it behind the frame to shield it from the heat of my cats. I know other people have done this. Anyone know the exact size line I need? Did anyone flare the cut hardlines first?

Then I'll have to refill the rad and burp the system well before driving 7 hours back to NH for the holidays.

Also, bit of a science-y question: Does heat make steel corrode faster? It looks to me like this part of the line is closest to the cats.
Kinda like how our frames (mine included) rust through first on the side closest to the muffler.

 

[snivilous]

Just figure it could be a lot worse and hopefully won't delay you going home. Last semester I had a rock chew up my rotor descending a trail the day before I went home, and ultimately going home for the summer was delayed for another day to have the dealership replace everything (I was running racing brakes that they didn't have so they had to change out the good side too so they matched)... though I then ran out of gas in the middle of WY since my gas tank was bashed in too :doh:

Just remember finals and school are more important than replacing fluid and such, even if it delays driving home!
EDIT:

Also, bit of a science-y question: Does heat make steel corrode faster? It looks to me like this part of the line is closest to the cats.
Kinda like how our frames (mine included) rust through first on the side closest to the muffler.

Yes, heat speeds up most chemical reactions, including the oxidation of steel.

 

[TheDurk]

Now I have to replace these stupid lines. In the freezing parking lot. My plan is to cut the lines as close to the engine bay as I can conveniently reach, and replace both segments with (3/8") rubber fuel line. Probably try to hide it behind the frame to shield it from the heat of my cats. I know other people have done this. Anyone know the exact size line I need? Did anyone flare the cut hardlines first?

Then I'll have to refill the rad and burp the system well before driving 7 hours back to NH for the holidays.

Also, bit of a science-y question: Does heat make steel corrode faster? It looks to me like this part of the line is closest to the cats.
Kinda like how our frames (mine included) rust through first on the side closest to the muffler.

You could just loop the hose in the engine bay and by-pass the rear heater. It was an option, after all, so no one will freeze to death without it. Then fix at your leisure in decent weather or inside. There is a thread with pics on this not too long ago.

My lines are pristine, so I haven't done it myself, but I can't see why on Earth you would flare a hard line you were going to clamp a rubber hose on to.

And sure, heat makes metal corrode faster. Look at your exhaust bolts versus any other bolts.

 

[Scotty_h]

Guy in plaid holding a beer?

 

[Diverse4runner]

You could just loop the hose in the engine bay and by-pass the rear heater. It was an option, after all, so no one will freeze to death without it. Then fix at your leisure in decent weather or inside. There is a thread with pics on this not too long ago.

My lines are pristine, so I haven't done it myself, but I can't see why on Earth you would flare a hard line you were going to clamp a rubber hose on to.

And sure, heat makes metal corrode faster. Look at your exhaust bolts versus any other bolts.

This is what I did but I live in Florida and as you can see now by the weather we are getting, a rear heater is not really needed for me. So it will stay looped in the engine bay.

 

[Doc2012]

that one would strand me

SOOOOOOO, what you're saying is she didn't strand you. You KNEW you had to fix something, but drove on it anyway.

She didn't strand you. You stranded yourself. (Here's where I would insert a flip off gif, but we don't have one. LOL)

Just busting your ass man. Bet you learned your lesson though.

 

[papapoopski]

Dusting myself off from crawling under the truck to check rear heater lines.

This place has saved me sooooo much money......which I have promptly blown on mods I didn't know that I "needed".

Good luck with the fix

 

[Nelsonmd]

You could just loop the hose in the engine bay and by-pass the rear heater. It was an option, after all, so no one will freeze to death without it. Then fix at your leisure in decent weather or inside. There is a thread with pics on this not too long ago.

My lines are pristine, so I haven't done it myself, but I can't see why on Earth you would flare a hard line you were going to clamp a rubber hose on to.

And sure, heat makes metal corrode faster. Look at your exhaust bolts versus any other bolts.

Yeah, this my recommendation too. Really you could have just done that on the spot with a short length of hose if you had some water in the vehicle.

Also, why did you have a combination of red/green? That is really bad. they are not chemically compatible and IIRC can gel up when mixed. You should flush that thing really well before refilling.

BTW, I replaced my hard lines with fuel hose (Don't remember the size, I think I just bought 8ft of it and had a bit left over), didn't even really secure them out of the way of the CAT's and it has been fine for 4 years. The lines havn't been affected at all by the CAT's though they dangle near them (though they never touch them, my point is just not to worry about it too much).

BTW, If I had to do it again, I'd probably just bypass in the engine bay and not worry about the rear heater, it doesn't seem to contribute much anyway.

 

[NHRunner]

Yes, heat speeds up most chemical reactions, including the oxidation of steel.

Should have known that myself. Thanks haha. PS you have one of my favorite builds to watch. So cool seeing someone my own age learn to build all their own stuff and put it to good use.

She didn't strand you. You stranded yourself.

Very true... and embarrassing haha. Operator error I guess. Of course I couldn't blame this on the truck.

Also, why did you have a combination of red/green? That is really bad. they are not chemically compatible and IIRC can gel up when mixed. You should flush that thing really well before refilling.

You're right. I knew it was bad practice to mix the two kinds, but it was just temporary. Maybe for now I could just dump a gallon of distilled h20 in through the radiator and let it pour out through the rear heat lines. Then I'll bypass the system in the engine bay(found an okay writeup) and flush another gallon through the rad drain. Then close the drain and fill 50/50 with Toyota red/ distilled h20.
Sound reasonable?

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[tee-bone]

total conjecture on my part; but you may want to flush the rear heater core out first if/when you go to hook the rear heater back up. I am picturing it getting pretty nasty with all that damp air in there.

 

[Kung]

Very true... and embarrassing haha. Operator error I guess. Of course I couldn't blame this on the truck.

 

[wjamyers]

SOOOOOOO, what you're saying is she didn't strand you. You KNEW you had to fix something, but drove on it anyway.

She didn't strand you. You stranded yourself.

my thoughts exactly

 

[Nelsonmd]

You're right. I knew it was bad practice to mix the two kinds, but it was just temporary. Maybe for now I could just dump a gallon of distilled h20 in through the radiator and let it pour out through the rear heat lines. Then I'll bypass the system in the engine bay(found an okay writeup) and flush another gallon through the rad drain. Then close the drain and fill 50/50 with Toyota red/ distilled h20.
Sound reasonable?

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I'd pick one of these up and let your hose properly flush it before draining and replacing with Toyota red. That's what I did.

Amazon.com: Prestone AF-KIT Flush 'N Fill Kit: Automotive

 

[Curtis f]

Did not even need to get towed lol , 5 mins and the reuse of some hose and you could have just looped it.:zoom:

 

[kolelt]

You can disconnect the rear ac lines, which would make you not loose any coolant. My lines were leaking and my mechanic just swapped places with couple hoses under the hood and all good.