Shock mounts rusted/rotted - what can be done?

[MAD 69]

Brought my 4Runner to my local mechanic, I bought a set of Bilstein shocks to have installed - replacing the originals after 285K miles. Mechanic calls me and says I have a problem, he can’t mount the back driver side shock - there is nowhere to mount it, it’s completely rotted away. What can be done here, except for a complete frame swap(unrealistic)?
My engine is running as good as it ever has, shocks were the only thing this thing needed, he mentioned that Toyota sells some type of bracket but the cost and labor will be about $5K - I can’t afford this. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated- thinking a welder could come up with something? I’m stuck and this is stressing the h3ll out of me….

 

[Sarki]

Yeah the upper area where the rear shocks mount can be an issue especially given your located in an area where the winter roads are treated with salt.
Lots of others have had to deal with this so several threads about it within this forum.
I would ask around for a local fabricator that isn’t afraid to do some creative welding. The part you need is still available from Toyota and not that costly.
The real cost is the labor to install it but no way should it be anywhere close to $5K, I suspect way less than half that amount.
Others who have faced this problem will chime in.
Also, check other areas of your frame as you may have other issues related to rust. Take close look at lower rear control arm mounting points, etc.

 

[Sarki]

A simple google search yielded the following hits all on this forum.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Brought my 4Runner to my local mechanic, I bought a set of Bilstein shocks to have installed - replacing the originals after 285K miles. Mechanic calls me and says I have a problem, he can’t mount the back driver side shock - there is nowhere to mount it, it’s completely rotted away. What can be done here, except for a complete frame swap(unrealistic)?
My engine is running as good as it ever has, shocks were the only thing this thing needed, he mentioned that Toyota sells some type of bracket but the cost and labor will be about $5K - I can’t afford this. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated- thinking a welder could come up with something? I’m stuck and this is stressing the h3ll out of me….

Buy a new welding machine and about $5 worth of steel. Less than 5 grand haha. The skill is always handy anyways. You need to get under there and make sure your frame isn't rusting that bad before some jackass says 10 grand. Anyways it's a simple fix and a crucial one. Drill a hole a run a couple beads. 5 grand wtf

 

[Bad Luck]

Brought my 4Runner to my local mechanic, I bought a set of Bilstein shocks to have installed - replacing the originals after 285K miles. Mechanic calls me and says I have a problem, he can’t mount the back driver side shock - there is nowhere to mount it, it’s completely rotted away. What can be done here, except for a complete frame swap(unrealistic)?
My engine is running as good as it ever has, shocks were the only thing this thing needed, he mentioned that Toyota sells some type of bracket but the cost and labor will be about $5K - I can’t afford this. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated- thinking a welder could come up with something? I’m stuck and this is stressing the h3ll out of me….

First you need to crawl underneath and poke/hammer your frame to make sure there aren't any other frame areas that have rusted out. Pay extra attention to the rear lower control arm mounts and the inside part of the frame on the passenger side by the exhaust.

If that all checks out then read through this thread: Rear Shock Mount Rot It lists some part numbers, but make sure that they are the correct part number for your vehicle. If you can't weld then I suggest asking around for places that do frame repair or offroad fabrication.

 

[losso]

I have the same issue

Toyota sells these to be welded on. Driver side 5130235040 , passenger side 5130235030
They are around $140 a piece

 

[toverturf]

Outboard Shock Relocation (OSR)






– OPT OFF ROAD You could just get this and outboard them though that's a lot of welding and you'd need new shocks so more money. You wouldn't have to worry about those old shock mounts anymore though and it's a lot easier to remove shocks.

 

[MAD 69]

I can't believe I'm still doing with this-i got the one side done for $1600 now the other side needs it. This is a bigger problem since the gas tank needs to be pulled. You see all these shows where guys restore 1932 Cars pulled out of junk yards but try repairing a 25 year old truck and it's a nitemare.

I wonder if I could rig something cheap, but safe I'm not going off-road in this or driving far, it's just for running around town and driving short distances. I have 290K miles and the engine sounds and performs as good as the day I bought it.

 

[brillo_76]

I can't believe I'm still doing with this-i got the one side done for $1600 now the other side needs it. This is a bigger problem since the gas tank needs to be pulled. You see all these shows where guys restore 1932 Cars pulled out of junk yards but try repairing a 25 year old truck and it's a nitemare.



I wonder if I could rig something cheap, but safe I'm not going off-road in this or driving far, it's just for running around town and driving short distances. I have 290K miles and the engine sounds and performs as good as the day I bought it.

I repaired /rebuilt 3 3rd gen frames. It takes time.

3 options with rusty frames:

1) Sale it or junk the rig
2) Replace the frame
3) Fix the Bad spots in the frame.


I mostly Choose Option 3.. But I do all the work myself.

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[JustTroItIn]

Obtaining a 3rd gen is what finally inspired me to buy a welder. The damn thing has paid for itself a few times over already. It's also been a pretty rewarding skill to learn.

 

[brillo_76]

Obtaining a 3rd gen is what finally inspired me to buy a welder. The damn thing has paid for itself a few times over already. It's also been a pretty rewarding skill to learn.

If you live in the Rust belt it's almost a requirement. If not, you spend a small fortune keeping your rig moving...

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[Devbot]

=You see all these shows where guys restore 1932 Cars pulled out of junk yards but try repairing a 25 year old truck and it's a nitemare.

Sounds like you got fooled by the magic of television.
They make it look easy because contrary to the song and dance they put on, they're very experienced fabricators in an extremely well equipped shop with several employees to help, including producers and editors who will selectively cut out all the headaches they encounter.
Reality TV isn't reality. If it was as easy as they made it look, everyone and their mother would do it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I out boarded my shock mounts a month or so ago.

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[MCgrease08]

Obtaining a 3rd gen is what finally inspired me to buy a welder. The damn thing has paid for itself a few times over already. It's also been a pretty rewarding skill to learn.

If you live in the Rust belt it's almost a requirement. If not, you spend a small fortune keeping your rig moving...

This is pretty much where I'm at today, trying to decide if I'm ready to learn how to weld.

I paid a pro to install several of the Safe-T-Cap patch panels in the usual hot spots on the frame, but I'm eventually going to have to do both rocker panels and I have a rotten dog leg on the rear passenger side. I'd also like to do some rock sliders eventually. Mainly so my lady stops complaining about how hard it is getting in to the lifted rig. I'm pretty much at the tipping point where it doesn't make sense to rely on others to do this type of work long term.

 

[brillo_76]

This is pretty much where I'm at today, trying to decide if I'm ready to learn how to weld.



I paid a pro to install several of the Safe-T-Cap patch panels in the usual hot spots on the frame, but I'm eventually going to have to do both rocker panels and I have a rotten dog leg on the rear passenger side. I'd also like to do some rock sliders eventually. Mainly so my lady stops complaining about how hard it is getting in to the lifted rig. I'm pretty much at the tipping point where it doesn't make sense to rely on others to do this type of work long term.

Nope. It's not cost effective... Plus it's good to have new skills. Just get a good 220 mig. Plus lots leather so you don't scare yourself up. Weld burns leave scares...

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[19963.4lsr5]

Nope. It's not cost effective... Plus it's good to have new skills. Just get a good 220 mig. Plus lots leather so you don't scare yourself up. Weld burns leave scares...

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I welded mine with a Millermatic 130a 120v. but would love a 220v big boy.


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[JohnMc]

Outboard Shock Relocation (OSR) – OPT OFF ROAD You could just get this and outboard them though that's a lot of welding and you'd need new shocks so more money. You wouldn't have to worry about those old shock mounts anymore though and it's a lot easier to remove shocks.

I'm intrigued. I'll keep this in mind for when I need to redo the rear suspension...

 

[brillo_76]

I welded mine with a Millermatic 130a 120v. but would love a 220v big boy.


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If you can you want to upgrade to 220-240v migs.. Makes welding on these frames easier..

 

[brillo_76]

I'm intrigued. I'll keep this in mind for when I need to redo the rear suspension...

I may do this i haven't decided yet as I am at that point with one of mine..

 

[Devbot]

If you can you want to upgrade to 220-240v migs.. Makes welding on these frames easier..

This ^^^
110 will suffice, but it's a little tricky and a pain in the ass for those just learning. 220 will service you much better. They can do everything 110 can and more
You can always rent a welder too, some suppliers are dirt cheap. My work rents a Dynasty 800 from Central Welding Supply cause it's wayyy cheaper than buying - you can rent it for 4 years straight and STILL be below its purchase price