Shrockworks Slider Install

[Unner]

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone has the actual instructions from Shrockworks for installing their bolt on sliders? I emailed them about it last week and they replied and sent me a PDF, but it wouldn't open...

I emailed back asking if there was a different way to get the instructions and they haven't replied. So if anyone has the instructions for installing these sliders on a third gen that would be great! I just want to see what all is involved before I purchase anything.

Thanks!

 

[EatonKyleH]

pow!

 

[Unner]

Thanks so much Kyle! Is there really only one page for the instructions? I was expecting them to be longer. I've got a few more questions now that I can see the instructions.

How do you get those "stick nuts" back there? Do they go through those small stock holes in the frame that they point to in the instructions?

I assume the "stick nuts" are regular nuts with a piece of metal welded on that you hold on to through those holes?

If so how do you get the bolts tight enough? I would think you wouldn't be able to hold them tight enough, unless they rotate and brace themselves against the frame.

Also, I assume you are required to drill all 8 holes?

One last one, how was the install overall in your opinion? Was it fairly simply and easy, or a total pain in the butt?

Thanks again for your time!

 

[EatonKyleH]

Thanks so much Kyle! Is there really only one page for the instructions? I was expecting them to be longer. I've got a few more questions now that I can see the instructions.

How do you get those "stick nuts" back there? Do they go through those small stock holes in the frame that they point to in the instructions?

I assume the "stick nuts" are regular nuts with a piece of metal welded on that you hold on to through those holes?

If so how do you get the bolts tight enough? I would think you wouldn't be able to hold them tight enough, unless they rotate and brace themselves against the frame.

Also, I assume you are required to drill all 8 holes?

One last one, how was the install overall in your opinion? Was it fairly simply and easy, or a total pain in the butt?

Thanks again for your time!

No problem. Ya its only that one page.

Yup the stick nuts are a nut with a long piece of flexible steel welded to them. You will bend the stick part into a slight curve so that you can put it through the stock holes they show and line up the nut with the hole as you move it around from outside the frame using the protruding stick part. It takes a bit of practice at first but once you get the hang of it it goes pretty quickly.

Once the bolt is about finger tight I bend the stick against the frame and hold it while tightening. The nuts grab the inside surprisingly well and I didn't have any issues when torquing the bolts down.

Overall it wasn't too bad.... it wasn't as easy and quick as I originally thought either but really it was more time consuming than hard. Mostly making sure you've got everything lined up and marked correctly several times before drilling.... then screwing around with the stick nuts can be frustrating at first.

You have to drill all 8 holes for them to really be functional.

Get yourself and 1/2 inch Uni-bit and a decent center punch it will make an absolute world of difference. They cut perfect 1/2 holes and go through the frame rail extremely easily. I would have hated doing this without one and changing bits a hundred times.

something like so:
Amazon.com: Irwin 15101 Unibit1T Titanium Nitride Coated 1/8-Inch to 1/2-Inch by 1/4-Inch Shank Step Drill Bit: Home Improvement

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[Unner]

No problem. Ya its only that one page.

Yup the stick nuts are a nut with a long piece of flexible steel welded to them. You will bend the stick part into a slight curve so that you can put it through the stock holes they show and line up the nut with the hole as you move it around from outside the frame using the protruding stick part. It takes a bit of practice at first but once you get the hang of it it goes pretty quickly.

Once the bolt is about finger tight I bend the stick against the frame and hold it while tightening. The nuts grab the inside surprisingly well and I didn't have any issues when torquing the bolts down.

Overall it wasn't too bad.... it wasn't as easy and quick as I originally thought either but really it was more time consuming than hard. Mostly making sure you've got everything lined up and marked correctly several times before drilling.... then screwing around with the stick nuts can be frustrating at first.

You have to drill all 8 holes for them to really be functional.

Get yourself and 1/2 inch Uni-bit and a decent center punch it will make an absolute world of difference. They cut perfect 1/2 holes and go through the frame rail extremely easily. I would have hated doing this without one and changing bits a hundred times.

something like so:
Amazon.com: Irwin 15101 Unibit1T Titanium Nitride Coated 1/8-Inch to 1/2-Inch by 1/4-Inch Shank Step Drill Bit: Home Improvement

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks! That definitely helps. This sounds like something I would be able to do then and not too bad of a job.

The only part that worries me is drilling into the frame, just because it is drilling into the frame... My favorite sliders aesthetically are the BAMF ones, but they are only weld on at this point, and I'm having trouble finding someone in the area that I trust enough to let them weld onto the frame of my truck.

How do you like the sliders themselves? It looks like in your build thread you bolted them on and then welded them as well. Was this necessary, or were they plenty strong without the welding?

 

[EatonKyleH]

Thanks! That definitely helps. This sounds like something I would be able to do then and not too bad of a job.

The only part that worries me is drilling into the frame, just because it is drilling into the frame... My favorite sliders aesthetically are the BAMF ones, but they are only weld on at this point, and I'm having trouble finding someone in the area that I trust enough to let them weld onto the frame of my truck.

How do you like the sliders themselves? It looks like in your build thread you bolted them on and then welded them as well. Was this necessary, or were they plenty strong without the welding?

Ya I totally understand. Its not something you want to drill and then find out you screwed up the hole position and need to drill another haha. It took me awhile to confirm, reconfirm, and confirm again that I was positive about each drilling position.

I really like the sliders, I've hit them many times and jacked the vehicle with a hi-lift on them several times. They work great. They look nice, work decent as steps but hug the body really close which I like.

Ya I welded them also. It was honestly complete overkill and they will be fine to leave bolt on. The plates that contact the frame on them are huge and go along the side of the frame and below it. I basically got the idea in my head that they would help strengthen the frame and to use the entire plate by welding around it and went for it. I'd just leave it bolt on if you are trying to avoid the welding or don't have someone you trust. It will be totally fine as long as you get the holes done right.

Oh and Honda Nighthawk black pearl touch up paint matches the powder coat extremely close. I've hit come big rocks that gouged them pretty good. I had a Honda in that color and noticed the two where close. If you really start pounding on them and want to keep them looking good and the exposed parts from rusting it looks barely noticeable.

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08703-B92PAH-PN-Touch-Up-Paint/dp/B007W7WVVU

 

[Unner]

Ya I totally understand. Its not something you want to drill and then find out you screwed up the hole position and need to drill another haha. It took me awhile to confirm, reconfirm, and confirm again that I was positive about each drilling position.

I really like the sliders, I've hit them many times and jacked the vehicle with a hi-lift on them several times. They work great. They look nice, work decent as steps but hug the body really close which I like.

Ya I welded them also. It was honestly complete overkill and they will be fine to leave bolt on. The plates that contact the frame on them are huge and go along the side of the frame and below it. I basically got the idea in my head that they would help strengthen the frame and to use the entire plate by welding around it and went for it. I'd just leave it bolt on if you are trying to avoid the welding or don't have someone you trust. It will be totally fine as long as you get the holes done right.

Oh and Honda Nighthawk black pearl touch up paint matches the powder coat extremely close. I've hit come big rocks that gouged them pretty good. I had a Honda in that color and noticed the two where close. If you really start pounding on them and want to keep them looking good and the exposed parts from rusting it looks barely noticeable.

Amazon.com: Genuine Honda (08703-B92PAH-PN) Touch-Up Paint, Nighthawk Black Pearl, Color Code: B92P: Automotive

Yeah those are exactly my thoughts on the drilling. I am really anal and picky about everything I do on my cars with triple checking so I should be good with the drilling. Just something that makes me nervous... That's good to hear that they are solid when just bolted on, that's probably as far as they will ever go with me. I'm glad to hear that they work as a step as well. I don't need the step myself, but I know shorter people have issues getting into the truck and it's just a stock 01 with the running boards removed. I do plan to put a small lift on later on too.

I don't "need" sliders exactly, but I like the way they look, may need them with trees because rocks aren't as much of an issue around here, and they're good insurance. I watched two guys almost put huge dents in their Chevy and Dodge when they got stuck in the snow out on the trails here a few weeks ago. Wasn't an issue for me as my Toyota didn't get stuck, but it made me think that I'd rather have them and never need them than need them and not have them. Plus they would keep careless people from dinging my 4Runner. I found another dent this morning from a careless person...

Thanks for the tip on the touch up paint. I haven't decided if I would get them powder coated or if I would get them bare steel and paint myself. Right now I think I'm sold on these sliders unless BAMF comes up with a bolt on option for our 4Runners.

 

[Unner]

[MENTION=94888]EatonKyleH[/MENTION]

Just wanted to say thanks for the tips Kyle. The unibit was a life saver and ate right through the frame. The only issues I had with the install was one of the sticknuts broke off, but the lock washer is compressed and it seems to be tight enough. I can jack the truck up from that corner of the slider so I think I'm good. The entire install took me about 3 hours in the miserable Alabama July heat and I was taking my time with marking the holes and such.

I lined the sliders up, marked the bottom holes and drilled them with the sliders being held up by my two floor jacks. Then I made sure I could get the bolt through both of those holes and marked the top holes. You have to pull the slider to drill these and they have to be drilled at a slight angle at first because the pinch weld is in the way unless you have some fancy drill or impact that I don't. Everything lined up great!

I haven't seen any of the 3rd Gen's with the treadplates added so here's a few pictures in-case someone comes across this thread wondering. Haven't been able to use them yet, not even on a dirt road, but I will hopefully soon.

 

[nikkoazan]

Did you really have to drill 8 holes?

I just got mine and after looking everything over it appears that the rear plate on the driver side uses the threaded hole from the gas tank skid plate.

If that is true, I guess I am only drilling 7 holes?

Can you help me out?

Thank you in advance!

 

[ltsr]

Did you really have to drill 8 holes?

I just got mine and after looking everything over it appears that the rear plate on the driver side uses the threaded hole from the gas tank skid plate.

If that is true, I guess I am only drilling 7 holes?

Can you help me out?

Thank you in advance!

I guess we were both on the recent group buy. I'm installing mine tomorrow, I can report back what I find.

 

[nikkoazan]

I guess we were both on the recent group buy. I'm installing mine tomorrow, I can report back what I find.

No I just recently joined So I had no idea about it. Paid full price directly from Shrockworks.

I'd really appreciate that! Thank you!

 

[Unner]

Did you really have to drill 8 holes?

I just got mine and after looking everything over it appears that the rear plate on the driver side uses the threaded hole from the gas tank skid plate.

If that is true, I guess I am only drilling 7 holes?

Can you help me out?

Thank you in advance!

Yes, you drill 4 holes per side. Unless they changed the design there are no threaded holes the sliders use. There were 2 holes that needed to be drilled into the side of the frame, and then 2 holes that get drilled into the bottom of the frame for each slider. Then you mount them using the provided bolts and sticknuts.

The one mounting plate/leg for the sliders is very close to the frame mount for the gas tank skid, but it doesn't use or interfere with that hole.

The biggest tip I have is get a good unibit, and if you have an impact driver that seemed to work better than my regular drill. Take your time and triple check the location of the holes before you drill them. You can't undrill holes. The unibit I bought for that project has proved to be very useful with many other projects, very useful too.

Also use a center punch to mark the spot for the hole, then drill a small pilot hole and follow up with the unibit for the real cutting.

I actually drilled the holes with the sliders mocked up on the truck, this way I knew the holes were going exactly where they needed to go. I may not have been able to do that for the side holes, but I did it for the bottom ones for sure. After I drilled them I slid the bolts through the frame and made sure everything was square and then took the sliders away from the truck and drilled the side holes.

Take your time and I'm sure it'll come out great. They're plenty sturdy too. I haven't had an issue with mine yet.

Here's my response to your PM incase anyone else needs the info.

Sorry the pics are dead, but everything in my build thread is live if anyone wants pics of the sliders.

 

[tx_shooter]

Did you really have to drill 8 holes?

I just got mine and after looking everything over it appears that the rear plate on the driver side uses the threaded hole from the gas tank skid plate.

If that is true, I guess I am only drilling 7 holes?

Can you help me out?

Thank you in advance!

I mounted Schrockworks sliders on my 3rd gen almost two years ago now and have had zero problems. They have held up great for close to 60,000 miles of daily driving and off road trips. No worries about drilling the holes - just get ready to try to get the bolts into position. Be patient and mock up the bends before inserting it into the frame.

 

[ltsr]

No I just recently joined So I had no idea about it. Paid full price directly from Shrockworks.

I'd really appreciate that! Thank you!

Exactly what [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] said above. Shrockworks has not modified their slider design for 3rd gens since his advice was spot on. Get a good unibit. What I think really helped was oiling the bit before drilling.

 

[ladywolf]

Exactly what [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] said above. Shrockworks has not modified their slider design for 3rd gens since his advice was spot on. Get a good unibit. What I think really helped was oiling the bit before drilling.

Those are some nice looking sliders.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Angled Shrockworks sliders?

Bringing this thread back to life to ask a question. The 4 photos (link below) of 3rd gen sliders on the Shrockworks site appear to be angled up and tucked in tight to the frame. The photos in this install thread do not. Did I miss something on their site? An angled option? Nevermind - I double-checked the site before I hit submit and I see the angled up 30 option on the Style dropdown now. I'll leave this question here anyway in case anyone wants to update their experience with these sliders.

ShrockWorks Toyota 4Runner Rock Sliders, Rock Rails - 3rd Gen, 1996-2002

Thanks!

 

[Team_Jake]

Bringing this thread back to life to ask a question. The 4 photos (link below) of 3rd gen sliders on the Shrockworks site appear to be angled up and tucked in tight to the frame. The photos in this install thread do not. Did I miss something on their site? An angled option? Nevermind - I double-checked the site before I hit submit and I see the angled up 30 option on the Style dropdown now. I'll leave this question here anyway in case anyone wants to update their experience with these sliders.

ShrockWorks Toyota 4Runner Rock Sliders, Rock Rails - 3rd Gen, 1996-2002

Thanks!

Just before ordering mine I had the same question. I called them just to make sure (I wanted the tucked up low-profile look). They said the regular ones are angled up 30°, the platted ones are flat.

They fit great and are beefy as hell.

 

[phattyduck]

Treadplate design, for reference:

-Charlie

 

[Endlessblockades]

Just before ordering mine I had the same question. I called them just to make sure (I wanted the tucked up low-profile look). They said the regular ones are angled up 30°, the platted ones are flat.

They fit great and are beefy as hell.

Thank you - that's what I would do if I go this route.