Signs of A340F transmission going out

[spartacus]

There are 3 total. Two controlling the gears and a third for lockup. Solenoid No.1 and Solenoid No.2 use a sequence of On-Off, Off-On, On-On, and Off-Off to control all 4 gears in the transmission.

You are right sl1 and sl2 are shift and sl and slt are line pressure.

 

[jgue467]

I used valvoline maxlife atf. The red bottle.

Doubt it matters yet I used to use the red valvo bottle, went with the Blue Valvo 'import' bottle from reading serveral folks on here, albeit is it very pricey but I'll take it since it worked with the whine my trans had and it is sweet as butter now.

Luck on your attempts to salvage that tranny.

 

[Jvilotti_t4r]

I had a full rebuild done with some upgraded parts. Not cheap.
As long as you replace fluid and monitor temps from now on you should be fine. But yeah after seeing what a simple tranny cooler can do I would never run one of these trucks without one again.

 

[nathanroyse]

Doubt it matters yet I used to use the red valvo bottle, went with the Blue Valvo 'import' bottle from reading serveral folks on here, albeit is it very pricey but I'll take it since it worked with the whine my trans had and it is sweet as butter now.

Luck on your attempts to salvage that tranny.

Thank you. Maybe I’ll give that a try


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nathanroyse]

I had a full rebuild done with some upgraded parts. Not cheap.
As long as you replace fluid and monitor temps from now on you should be fine. But yeah after seeing what a simple tranny cooler can do I would never run one of these trucks without one again.

Ah man. That’s what I’m hoping. Thanks for your input


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ShoresMike]

Hey guys, I don’t have enough karma to post a thread on my own. I have a 98 with 204k. My trans will “ neutral slam” when it’s really cold out, starting off the line only. Is that a solenoid issue or tranny starting to go. I’ve not changed the fluid, i suspect it’s never been. I just recently bought it and only drive winters.

 

[spartacus]

Hey guys, I don’t have enough karma to post a thread on my own. I have a 98 with 204k. My trans will “ neutral slam” when it’s really cold out, starting off the line only. Is that a solenoid issue or tranny starting to go. I’ve not changed the fluid, i suspect it’s never been. I just recently bought it and only drive winters.

Change the fluid for sure. In the mornings the engine revs higher for a few minutes before settling down to about 700 rpm which may cause lurch in first if you have a stick? In auto trans the shifting from p to d specially if you'are parked on an incline without the use of the e brake will disengage the parking pawl with a clunk.

 

[nathanroyse]

Hey guys, I don’t have enough karma to post a thread on my own. I have a 98 with 204k. My trans will “ neutral slam” when it’s really cold out, starting off the line only. Is that a solenoid issue or tranny starting to go. I’ve not changed the fluid, i suspect it’s never been. I just recently bought it and only drive winters.

Are you talking about when you’re coming to a stop, and you take your foot off the brake to go again and it feels like the whole car clunks before you go again?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Malinoas38]

I am installing a transmission cooler tomorrow!
My symptoms are P0770(shift solenoid) code after climbing steep hills. Also notice any drinks in the cup holder will get warm at the bottom. My theory is the tranny throws the code after getting hot on the hills. Hope the tranny cooler fixes my issue.
Good thread & feedback on tranny issue, thanks!

 

[Bad Luck]

I am installing a transmission cooler tomorrow!
My symptoms are P0770(shift solenoid) code after climbing steep hills. Also notice any drinks in the cup holder will get warm at the bottom. My theory is the tranny throws the code after getting hot on the hills. Hope the tranny cooler fixes my issue.
Good thread & feedback on tranny issue, thanks!

Even with a transmission cooler the bottom of the cup holders will get hot

 

[ShoresMike]

Are you talking about when you’re coming to a stop, and you take your foot off the brake to go again and it feels like the whole car clunks before you go again?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I’m at a red light and go to take off, full engine/trans temp

 

[Mespinoza14]

I know what I’m going to say isn’t really for This thread but I need major help FYI this is my daily driver

Hey, I have a 1999 4Runner limited, v6 etc. my car won’t turn on, it won’t even crank, I turn the key to turn it on and all I hear was one click and that’s it but after a couple tries it will turn on but recently it’s been taking forever.
Initially we thought it was the battery so we went and got it checked, turns out it needed to be replaced so we did that. Then it was fine for a day but it started happening again, I did some research and found that maybe it was the starter relay so I went and replaced that and it work fine for a day again then it did it again. Once the car starts it drives perfectly normal but the problem is only when I try and start it.
Probably a week before it started happening my check engine light came on and me and my brother checked it out and it said I had a problem with my Throttle position sensor, we cleared the code because it seemed like a easy fix, so the next day I was under the hood to see what I needed to do to fix it and I saw a tube by the TPS was almost out so I pushed it back in and since then the check engine light never came back on. (I never replace the TPS)
Any help would be appreciated if you wanna know more to help me out I would gladly respond thank you.

 

[thegipper]

I know what I’m going to say isn’t really for This thread but I need major help FYI this is my daily driver

Hey, I have a 1999 4Runner limited, v6 etc. my car won’t turn on, it won’t even crank, I turn the key to turn it on and all I hear was one click and that’s it but after a couple tries it will turn on but recently it’s been taking forever.
Initially we thought it was the battery so we went and got it checked, turns out it needed to be replaced so we did that. Then it was fine for a day but it started happening again, I did some research and found that maybe it was the starter relay so I went and replaced that and it work fine for a day again then it did it again. Once the car starts it drives perfectly normal but the problem is only when I try and start it.
Probably a week before it started happening my check engine light came on and me and my brother checked it out and it said I had a problem with my Throttle position sensor, we cleared the code because it seemed like a easy fix, so the next day I was under the hood to see what I needed to do to fix it and I saw a tube by the TPS was almost out so I pushed it back in and since then the check engine light never came back on. (I never replace the TPS)
Any help would be appreciated if you wanna know more to help me out I would gladly respond thank you.

The contacts within your starter are shot and need to be replaced. You can either pull your starter apart and replace just the contacts or you can buy a new/rebuilt starter. I would only buy an OEM starter (Denso brand) as aftermarket starters for these trucks are trash.

Replacing the contacts is super easy, removing the starter on the other hand, is a little tricky if you have 4WD.

This video will you show you exactly what needs to be done.

Starter Removal and Solenoid Repair - YouTube

 

[nathanroyse]

I am installing a transmission cooler tomorrow!
My symptoms are P0770(shift solenoid) code after climbing steep hills. Also notice any drinks in the cup holder will get warm at the bottom. My theory is the tranny throws the code after getting hot on the hills. Hope the tranny cooler fixes my issue.
Good thread & feedback on tranny issue, thanks!

Interesting. I thought they would only throw a code if somethin internally is wrong. Usually when they get above 300 degrees or something the A/T temp light will come on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[phattyduck]

When I’m at a red light and go to take off, full engine/trans temp

This can be a separate issue of sticking rear driveshaft splines. Read up on lubing the rear driveshaft, which can fix the single clunk feeling when coming to a full stop or right when you start going again.

-Charlie

 

[nathanroyse]

UPDATE: Dropped my pan, I’ll attach some pics of what it looked like in the pan. Magnets have minor amounts of metal on them imo for 200k miles. Refilled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF (red bottle) and it still shifts hard under low throtte(normal driving) however under heavy throttle the shifts are smooth. If I shift it manually using the lever from 1 - 2 - D the shifts are completely smooth also. I don’t get it. No metal bits or anything in the pan, new fluid, correct fluid level(I think), in-line magnifine filter and new transmission filter and it’s still not shifting smooth. Would trying a different fluid such as the blue bottle of Valvoline ATF have a better effect? I’ve heard some people say it’s a little thicker of a fluid which might help with the shifting. Is it okay if they mix?

Anything helps, thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

UPDATE: Dropped my pan, I’ll attach some pics of what it looked like in the pan. Magnets have minor amounts of metal on them imo for 200k miles. Refilled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF (red bottle) and it still shifts hard under low throtte(normal driving) however under heavy throttle the shifts are smooth. If I shift it manually using the lever from 1 - 2 - D the shifts are completely smooth also. I don’t get it. No metal bits or anything in the pan, new fluid, correct fluid level(I think), in-line magnifine filter and new transmission filter and it’s still not shifting smooth. Would trying a different fluid such as the blue bottle of Valvoline ATF have a better effect? I’ve heard some people say it’s a little thicker of a fluid which might help with the shifting. Is it okay if they mix?

Anything helps, thank you.

Unfortunately I don't believe another type of fluid will make too much of a difference. Valvoline Maxlife is decent stuff. Full synthetic is better but not that much better (I've used both and stick with synthetic now). You've done all the maintenance items that one can possibly do. It may be time just to ride it out until the issue makes it undrivable or start looking for a low-cost used transmission to swap out if it's that bad. Hard to diagnose over the internet if it is really that bad or more of an annoyance.

 

[T4R2014]

UPDATE: Dropped my pan, I’ll attach some pics of what it looked like in the pan. Magnets have minor amounts of metal on them imo for 200k miles. Refilled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF (red bottle) and it still shifts hard under low throtte(normal driving) however under heavy throttle the shifts are smooth. If I shift it manually using the lever from 1 - 2 - D the shifts are completely smooth also. I don’t get it. No metal bits or anything in the pan, new fluid, correct fluid level(I think), in-line magnifine filter and new transmission filter and it’s still not shifting smooth. Would trying a different fluid such as the blue bottle of Valvoline ATF have a better effect? I’ve heard some people say it’s a little thicker of a fluid which might help with the shifting. Is it okay if they mix?

Anything helps, thank you.

It could make a difference, and it did for me, which is why I let people know of the viscosity difference of Maxlife ATF. You want a fluid that does not sacrifice viscosity to meet Toyota WS specification.

This could also be related to the kickdown cable. The common recommendation here is to adjust it to death. At 25 years, there is a fair chance the cable is stretched and binding. Replacing the throttle cable made a huge difference on my FZJ80. I would imagine the kickdown cable would have the same effect, as there is binding you won't realize until you compare with a new cable.

 

[nathanroyse]

It could make a difference, and it did for me, which is why I let people know of the viscosity difference of Maxlife ATF. You want a fluid that does not sacrifice viscosity to meet Toyota WS specification.

This could also be related to the kickdown cable. The common recommendation here is to adjust it to death. At 25 years, there is a fair chance the cable is stretched and binding. Replacing the throttle cable made a huge difference on my FZJ80. I would imagine the kickdown cable would have the same effect, as there is binding you won't realize until you compare with a new cable.

Thanks for the input. I’ve messed with the kickdown cable a couple of times. Right now it is pretty tight. I will try loosening it a lot and see what that does. Maybe I’ll even remove and inspect. I feel like I sound like a broken record but that might just be me trying to deny the fact that it’s going out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nathanroyse]

Unfortunately I don't believe another type of fluid will make too much of a difference. Valvoline Maxlife is decent stuff. Full synthetic is better but not that much better (I've used both and stick with synthetic now). You've done all the maintenance items that one can possibly do. It may be time just to ride it out until the issue makes it undrivable or start looking for a low-cost used transmission to swap out if it's that bad. Hard to diagnose over the internet if it is really that bad or more of an annoyance.

If it was going out, wouldn’t it shift bad all the time? Some times it’s perfectly smooth and it’s smooth every time when shifted using the 1-2-D on the lever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk