Silverstars

No.
The 9006 has one raised slot guide in the center of the socket. The 9005 has two offset from center. You simply "shave" off both of the 9005's and the 9006 connector will fit right in there perfectly. (and cut the external center flange in 1/2, which will allow the bulb to fit into the housing).
 
Sorry about hijacking this thread here, but I hate Silverstars' longevity or lackthereof.... SOOOO, I just got some emails back from recent Ebay BUYERS, NOT SELLERS, of HIR bulbs:

"No problem at all contacting me. I currently have Silverstars in all three of my cars. Subaru Outback, Volvo 780 and Honda CRX. I bought these for my Honda CRX and WOW they were so much brighter. I replaced my regular headlights with projector style a little while back and the Silverstars were just not that bright in those on the low beams. I was told by someone else to buy the high beam versions of the HIR lamps and adapt them to use in the low beam socket. I know it?s not too legal, but as long as you adjust them correctly you won?t get busted. So, as I said it made a HUGH difference. I like the Silverstar, but they don?t last very long. In fact in my Subaru with daytime running they only last about six months. I would replace my Silverstars with these, but the only other place I can use them is in my Subaru?s fog lamps. Hope this helps and if you need any more info just email me directly..."

The HIR lights are great. I purchased the 9011 high beams and put them in my low beam sockets so the difference between stock enormous. In fact, I compared them to my friend's 350z HIDs and there wasn't much difference in output. As for the color, they aren't as white as HIDs but whiter than normal halogens. I even posted some pictures of my HIR's output here http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1109062#post1109062. Here's a good comparison between stock and HIR that I used as reference http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1588070.
 
atomic punk said:
No.
The 9006 has one raised slot guide in the center of the socket. The 9005 has two offset from center. You simply "shave" off both of the 9005's and the 9006 connector will fit right in there perfectly. (and cut the external center flange in 1/2, which will allow the bulb to fit into the housing).

If you don't want to 'cut' your OEM sockets, there are aftermarket kits out there that will allow you to use 9005 bulbs...basically an adapter that converts the 9006 socket to 9005.

I believe Performance Products has them...

http://www.performanceproducts.com/.../Fogzilla Headlamp/Fog lamp Upgrade Kit&part=
 
You just need to modify the bulb socket, not the 4R's connector. 5 min.... spending $25 on a jumper harness is a waste of money.

see THIS thread and click on the link in the first post.
 
According to the link you provided...you need to modify the bulb housing and the bulb plug...not the socket.

So, the above adapters would help...but probably create a set cheaper.
 
Let me clarify...

Bulb socket...the part of the headlight housing that the bulb fits into.

Bulb plug...the electrical plug on the wiring hardness.

Bulb housing...the bulb itself with tabs and electrical connector.

Sorry, I guess some are calling the 'bulb pug' the 'bulb socket'...
 
The only part you need to modify is the bulb itself.

I did this mod with some silverstars awhile back. Just trim off the extra tab, and you're done.

It really does only take about 5 minutes to do, no modifying of anything on the 4Runner.
 
Oh,
Anyone who gets the HIR's post some pics.

I would really like to see a comparison on them to standard Halogen.
 
yes, I stand corrected...only need to modify the bulb itself...but I have a question/concern...

If you remove those little tabs on the electrical connector (bulb side)...it is no longer idiot proof. What adverse effect, if any, will there be if the plug is accidently put in backwards...neg to pos and pos to neg....

The bulb itself should not care...maybe like a speaker, it works but not as effeciently. But what about on the 4runner side?

With an old vehicle with 'straight-relayed' wiring, it should not matter...but with newer vehicles with the multiplexed wiring and non-direct controls...could there be any glitches?

J
 
Nothing on the 4R needs to be modified. That link shows only the bulb housing being modified, not the the bulb plug. I've had 9005 (65w) in my 4R low beams for two years now, & trust me, the jumper harness is only for people who don't have a dremel tool (or a soldering iron with a flat spade tip) and 5 minutes. Buy it if you want, but I still say it's a waste of $25.

Based on the rave reviews online, I'm going to order a pair of HIRs soon. I'll definitely post pics.
 
Oh, I agree...but like you said...not everyone has a dremel (or the knack)...even though they should...they're a lot of fun.
 
Sorry about my previous post, you must've just posted while I was typing it.

Even idiots "shouldn't" be able to install it backwards: the little tab on the bulb's housing will still be there - and that enables the 4R harness plug to latch onto the bulb. So, as long as you latch it and here the "click", you'll be fine. Or, just match up the plug with the socket the way it should go if you didn't mod it. Basically just looking at it will idiot proof it.

Yeah, dr. dremel is the easiest way. Soldering iron or utility knife will work too. My point is that the $25 is probably best spent on a cheap rotary tool or a nice soldering iron, which you can use for this mod as well as future projects, rather than just tossing down the money on the jumper harness.
 

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