Simple Frame Rust Repair/Prevention.

[19963.4lsr5]

While I was repairing the frame rust at the trans cross member I put my magnet in the frame and pulled out all the rust.

Anywhere the frame was welded to I found rust scale on the inside of the frame.

 

[giguchan]

Best rust Prevention I can think of is to stay out of NY.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Best rust Prevention I can think of is to stay out of NY.

Or MA, or NH, or ME, or VT, or MN, or WI, or MI... or pretty much all of Canada.

 

[PNW yota]

Well I'm kinda hosed at this point. 2 days of sitting as warm as I can keep it and the rust converter still hasn't cured yet. The encapsulator needs to cure at 68+ which will be impossible right now. So I guess this project will have to wait until spring. Don't want to waste all this stuff by spraying it now and having it all flake off over winter.

But at this point I'm down to exposed metal all over the rear end. My question is do I cover it with something cheap and remove it back down to bare metal next spring (assuming I can find something that will work with temps as low as they are) or literally just leave it as is?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Spray it with linseed oil or spray it with a rattle can.

A lot of members spray their inner frame cavity and undercarriage with linseed oil on the jeep forum.

My dad coated his cement tools with it when not in use to prevent rust.

 

[JohnsD90]

Or MA, or NH, or ME, or VT, or MN, or WI, or MI... or pretty much all of Canada.

Phew, Glad im in the NE safehaven of CT then, no rust for me!

 

[woodro]

Well I'm kinda hosed at this point. 2 days of sitting as warm as I can keep it and the rust converter still hasn't cured yet. The encapsulator needs to cure at 68+ which will be impossible right now. So I guess this project will have to wait until spring. Don't want to waste all this stuff by spraying it now and having it all flake off over winter.

But at this point I'm down to exposed metal all over the rear end. My question is do I cover it with something cheap and remove it back down to bare metal next spring (assuming I can find something that will work with temps as low as they are) or literally just leave it as is?

Use. Por 15 , great product , really tuff stuff ! I painted my rear diff last year in the winter in a non heated shop and had no problems with curing , bonds to rusty material or clean steel. .

 

[giguchan]

I hear what they use in Canada is nothing short of battery acid

 

[Nervo19]

Oh yeah... Im going redneck on the inside of the frame. I bought a 1 gallon yard sprayer from Home Depot and rust converter from "The Rust Store." Havent tried it yet, but it should work. Then Ill use the sprayer for an annual underbody treatment of some concoction to keep things under control.

That's brilliant. I've bought enough of those sprayers for deck care to know the heavy duty ones only cost $14. I might try that. Next spring. Nothing gets done outside when it's cold. I used the Eastwood stuff on the old 4Runner and it's great. You need three cans. Put old cardboard under the vehicle because it drips out. You can save the old nozzle by running WD40 or brake cleaner through it before it dries. Then use the nozzle with a cheaper can of rust proofer. Here it is going into rockers. You can see the green drip.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Phew, Glad im in the NE safehaven of CT then, no rust for me!

Oh yeah, I always forget about CT down there... It's kind of a pass through state for me.

Well I'm kinda hosed at this point. 2 days of sitting as warm as I can keep it and the rust converter still hasn't cured yet. The encapsulator needs to cure at 68+ which will be impossible right now. So I guess this project will have to wait until spring. Don't want to waste all this stuff by spraying it now and having it all flake off over winter.

But at this point I'm down to exposed metal all over the rear end. My question is do I cover it with something cheap and remove it back down to bare metal next spring (assuming I can find something that will work with temps as low as they are) or literally just leave it as is?

You definitely want to cover it with something. POR-15 needs warmth to cure too, so I wouldn't spend the money on that. I'd say maybe coat it with oil or WD-40 or something like that and do that several times during the winter, and be diligent about hitting the undercarriage wash regularly. If you don't coat it with anything it will rust again quick.

 

[Jon T4R]

getting the rust off before applying any product is key. mine got eastwoods and a ureathane paint. will see how it holds up this winter. think i may have posted some of these pics somewhere else... not sure.

 

[PNW yota]

So I switched shops and finally got the surface temp up high enough. I put encapsulator on and let it sit about 18 hours. Then hit it with chassis black and it sat in the warm shop for a good 9 hours while I installed a 7th injector kit. Then moved it back to my "heated" garage to cure over night. We'll see how it holds up.

This is what the rust converter looked like after a few days, almost starting to whiten.

Here's the encapsulator. I used silver so I could see the top coat going on.

The final layer was a medium coat of chassis black.

 

[Wile.E.Coyote]

I just bought a 2004 T4R that has these same issues with the underbody. You should see the skid plate, looks like swiss cheese! Fortunately, everything else is just surface issues. Unfortunately, with the Chicago winter gearing up (single digits tomorrow yay!) I won't be able to do any sort of paint or coating until spring. My solution is to remove all excess rust with a wire wheel on an air grinder, spray the whole goddamn underside with WD-40 and power wash frequently. Hopefully, it's a mild winter. I heard the polar vortex is gunna miss the midwest and hit New England all winter!

The tin worm never sleeps.

 

[Spunk]

May I add a seemingly off canter, yet potentially useful suggestion to protect the inside of the frame?

I saw a 5th gen's frame packed with galvanized steel bands. That would probably be the best long term solution. I intend to purchase some this week or next.

 

[clemson4r]

I see that this hasn't been mentioned yet, but I used a product called Noxudol. My 4Runner spent it's life in SC/NC, then I came back to New England and wanted to save the rust-free frame. Power-washed the undercarriage and used the Noxudol on everything (including the inside of the frame). So far, looks great and will hopefully last

Max

 

[kingin]

I tried the eastwood rust encapsulator on my 96, after 6months rust is starting to show through and I applied 3 coats. Gonna try fluid film on my 99 I'll see how that holds up.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The CJ crew like flooding the frame with linseed oil.

I've been using fogging oil every fall.

 

[acronin2]

3 year update?

[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] how is this holding up for you after 3 years. My undercarriage (specifically the rear diff) is showing some rust on my 04 sport and I am looking for solution to convert the rust or at least slow it down. I was thinking of going the route you went and then add a layer Fluid Film afterwords.

 

[kolelt]

I used Eastwood internal frame
Coating on my inside frame.


Por15 on the inside of the door jams and inside the truck. Plus some rusty areas. Then I used monstaliner over it.

 

[kolelt]

What are some rust areas you guys have ?

For me it was front rocker pannel, close to the front wheel. The back quarter pannel up top has rust and few spots on the rocker pillars when you open the door.