Simple inexpensive rear sway bar end links?

[StreetCreeper]

I'm not looking for anything fancy. I just noticed that my rear links are due for replacement as they are original and have a "couple" miles on them.

I did some searches on my phone but didn't really find anything pertinent for some reason.

Anyways, I don't think I need anything too robust or extended since my ride height is about 22.5" in the rear as measured from the bottom of my limited flares to the center of the wheel center cap.

So who can recommend a decent replacement?

 

[JayRolla]

The higher end priced moogs are not bad. Mine held up entire season wheeling.

 

[MN4runnerman]

The Beck Arnley ones are great. Those are what I use on my 4runners.

 

[nobb]

Although I like greasable suspension components, I feel like sway bar links are best kept with a sealed design to minimize the number of grease points you have to service regularly.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Rock Auto had a sale when I was looking on Duralast parts (who knows what the original manufacturor was). I bought them and they are big and beefy with a grease zerk on them. Not bad for about $11 each.

Rock Auto is the best prices for any non-OEM parts. I buy my wiper blades there for $2-$3 each.

 

[StreetCreeper]

The higher end priced moogs are not bad. Mine held up entire season wheeling.

I saw the Moog ones. They are on my short list.

The Beck Arnley ones are great. Those are what I use on my 4runners.

I'll be checking these

Although I like greasable suspension components, I feel like sway bar links are best kept with a sealed design to minimize the number of grease points you have to service regularly.

Strangely, I don't mind being under my truck. I find it relaxing sometimes to just get under there and work/inspect things.

Rock Auto had a sale when I was looking on Duralast parts (who knows what the original manufacturor was). I bought them and they are big and beefy with a grease zerk on them. Not bad for about $11 each.

Rock Auto is the best prices for any non-OEM parts. I buy my wiper blades there for $2-$3 each.

Now we're talking my kind of prices!

 

[SoFloT4R]

I had the same issue searching. I just ordered the cheapest ones I found on amazon. Ac Delco. And replaced the bushings only because I already had new ones. They seem decent enough. We'll see how they hold up. $17 each I think.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I had the same issue searching. I just ordered the cheapest ones I found on amazon. Ac Delco. And replaced the bushings only because I already had new ones. They seem decent enough. We'll see how they hold up. $17 each I think.

Those look really similar to the ones I bought, except with a zerk on the end. Works great and stronger than OEM.

 

[ComradeVlad]

I bought a set of Mevotech MK90681 for the front and rear. They come with zerk fittings attached to the back of them.


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[T4R2014]

I got AC Delcos. Uh... they work? Unless it's OEM it's all the same cheap shit.

 

[StreetCreeper]

I had the same issue searching. I just ordered the cheapest ones I found on amazon. Ac Delco. And replaced the bushings only because I already had new ones. They seem decent enough. We'll see how they hold up. $17 each I think.

Those look pretty beefy for $17! What bushings did you use?

 

[T4R2014]

Those look pretty beefy for $17! What bushings did you use?

They come with some ricer blue rubber bushing. Just use those unless you enjoy crawling under your truck every year to regrease some squeaky ass poly bushings.

 

[meRockboost]

Anyone using the fronts from a second gen on the rear of the third gen? Heard they were longer and worked good when lifted. I'm not running the rear but just asking.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

The higher end priced moogs are not bad. Mine held up entire season wheeling.

I got these ones as well, but I don't wheel and I've only just replaced them in the fall. Which means they currently have less than 1,000 miles on them as the T4R isn't my DD, so naturally, they're still holding up.

 

[JayRolla]

Those look really similar to the ones I bought, except with a zerk on the end. Works great and stronger than OEM.

How is it stronger? Has the same crap spot weld at the bottom.

 

[JayRolla]

Anyone using the fronts from a second gen on the rear of the third gen? Heard they were longer and worked good when lifted. I'm not running the rear but just asking.

I believe I'm using 2nd gen rear links on rear not fronts. They are 1" longer than stock. I also have SS sway bar relocation. I used to pop my rear links every trip until I installed the longer links.

 

[JayRolla]

They come with some ricer blue rubber bushing. Just use those unless you enjoy crawling under your truck every year to regrease some squeaky ass poly bushings.

What's worse is the polys are so stiff they when they flex off-road they bend at the ends because they have no play.

 

[T4R2014]

What's worse is the polys are so stiff they when they flex off-road they bend at the ends because they have no play.

Poly bushings are just autozone ricer crap TBH. Only place I find it acceptable is the steering rack.


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[green_manalishi]

What's worse is the polys are so stiff they when they flex off-road they bend at the ends because they have no play.

I combined them with discos. Kind of a poor man's KDSS - stiffer on the pavement and great independent flex off-road.


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[JayRolla]

I combined them with discos. Kind of a poor man's KDSS - stiffer on the pavement and great independent flex off-road.


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KDSS never works anyways lol.

Yeah I have discos up front. I see you have [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] links. They work great. The polys won't bend those but the oem type links will bend with polys.