Smelling Antifeeze

[kglueck]

I'm going to replace my cap and see if it helps.

Just curious if you replaced the cap and that solved the issue? Did you start to notice increases/decreases in the overflow tank?

(oh, and how was the trip?)

 

[Larry]

If you really got'a know there is one thing you can try. Go to your local GM dealer and buy a 'five-pack' offically the 'Colling System Seal Tabs'. These vegetable based tablets were developed by GM to fix little nit-picky leaks because of their wonderful quality control on assembly. They won't plug up passages and won't get in the way and do a great job of sealing those pesty little leaks. I did this on my wife's Volvo that smelled of anti-freeze under the dash on a hot day. And the level in the overflow never changed during the original problem, it just smelled sweet under the dash. These tablets nailed it, problem gone. If this fixes your problem then you had a very tiny leak somewhere. And don't worry too much about using this stuff, GM puts it in just about everything on the assembly line, and they spent a bucket load of money developing it and making the formula correct.

 

[ToyotaDoodz]

If you really got'a know there is one thing you can try. Go to your local GM dealer and buy a 'five-pack' officially the 'Colling System Seal Tabs'. These vegetable based tablets were developed by GM to fix little nit-picky leaks because of their wonderful quality control on assembly. They won't plug up passages and won't get in the way and do a great job of sealing those pesty little leaks. I did this on my wife's Volvo that smelled of anti-freeze under the dash on a hot day. And the level in the overflow never changed during the original problem, it just smelled sweet under the dash. These tablets nailed it, problem gone. If this fixes your problem then you had a very tiny leak somewhere. And don't worry too much about using this stuff, GM puts it in just about everything on the assembly line, and they spent a bucket load of money developing it and making the formula correct.

Thanks Larry, I'll try it. I don't buy the argument that what "I'm" smelling is normal. Except for a 1972 Vega, this is the only vehicle I've had this with. The Vega had a heater core leak. As I've said many times above, this just started and was not present for the first 30,000 miles.

Just curious if you replaced the cap and that solved the issue? Did you start to notice increases/decreases in the overflow tank?

(oh, and how was the trip?)

I did finally start to see fluid level changes in the overflow just before the trip. It seems the ambient temp needed to be higher for this cooling system to make a big change in the level. I have not replaced the cap yet because I wanted to see how it responded to a long trip. We drove 5,855 miles round trip from OK to Jasper, Alberta, Canada with many side trips along the way. I did notice the smell a few times during the trip but not as much as in town. Since returning, I've noticed it a few times but it doesn't seem to be as bad. Our temps are now hitting the mid 90's.

The trip was great. I didn't post a thread or pics since it's not primarily an off road trip although we did off road a lot north of Jasper and next to the Snake river at Jackson Hole. Tons of wildlife. 787 digital pics and 19 rolls of 36 exposure prints. And for you "war drivers" my Netstumbler logged 700+ open wireless AP's in some very remote areas.

 

[kaneman23]

The cooling system is self purging, so what
you are smelling is the purging action taking place.

The cooling system (if working correctly) contains
no air, so when the motor heats up the coolant will
vent a small amount of fluid(note: the hot and cold
levels marked on the overflow tank). Since the radiator
cap is the highest part of the system this is where any
air would collect. When the cap ventilates, this air is expelled.

When the motor cools it will take in the coolant that was expelled.

The reason for self purging is that if you have no air in the system
it cannot generate steam.

Cliff s

Like you I've always assumed that Coolant systems are self purging. However, in the Factory manuals there is a reference to a Heater Water Valve. After adding new coolant you're supposed to Bleed the Coolant system via this Heater Water Valve according to the manual.

I really screwed up today looking for this valve and mistook it for the High Pressure Refrigerent Line! Luckily, I just opened and closed it very quickly because something didn't feel right about the location or .

BTW, I think the 4th Gen manuals are terrible when it comes to labeling and referencing the diagrams. They've got some great diagrams but they don't label anything...

Do you happen to know the location of this valve?

 

[greasefingers]

You don

 

[kaneman23]

You don

 

[greasefingers]

The radiator cap maintains a somewhat constant pressure on the cooling system. Many vehicles have a 16 psi vent valve in the cap. This increases the boiling temperature of the antifreeze and also prevents o-rings and rubber coolant hoses from leaking. Every time the pressure rises above 16 psi, the liquid is released to the over flow reservoir. This defines a closed system. I guess it is possible to smell this release of the coolant vapor if it were sucked back into the HVAC intake, located just below the windshield wipers, but it would take an extremely sensitive nose. (almost impossible) I would focus more on a small leak on one of the heater core hoses where it passes thru the firewall. Maybe it drips onto a hot surface (like the exhaust manafold) and vaporizes. My point is to concentrate at locations that would be close to the HVAC intake.

 

[ToyotaDoodz]

The radiator cap maintains a somewhat constant pressure on the cooling system. Many vehicles have a 16 psi vent valve in the cap. This increases the boiling temperature of the antifreeze and also prevents o-rings and rubber coolant hoses from leaking. Every time the pressure rises above 16 psi, the liquid is released to the over flow reservoir. This defines a closed system. I guess it is possible to smell this release of the coolant vapor if it were sucked back into the HVAC intake, located just below the windshield wipers, but it would take an extremely sensitive nose. (almost impossible) I would focus more on a small leak on one of the heater core hoses where it passes thru the firewall. Maybe it drips onto a hot surface (like the exhaust manafold) and vaporizes. My point is to concentrate at locations that would be close to the HVAC intake.

I've always suspected it is in an area that evaporates. Now that our outside temps are running around 97, I don't notice it as often but it's still there. When I pull into the garage it hits me right when I open the door but not every day. The long vacation trip seemed to settle it down somewhat.

I haven't had a chance to go by the GM stealership and pick up the cooling system seal tabs that Larry recommended. I "assume" they are compatible with Toyota red antifreeze?

 

[greasefingers]

I do not like using anything like Stop-Leak, Gars, or any type of additives ever. The only exception is on an older vehicle. I would be more inclined to find the source. Since you are not losing any fluid; you have plenty of time to spend on this. I am glad the Toy antifreeze is not propylene based. Otherwise you would never know when there are small problems because the propylene based antifreezes do not smell sweet. The sweet smell of ethylene glycol attracts pets however.

 

[saaggie]

I spoke with My Toyota tech today and he told me whats happening. My 03 V8 was doing the same thing. He says its the plastic reservoir expanding and contracting. Like mentioned earlier its purging. He's a good tech, was a Acura tech before but went to Toyota b/c they have full A/C in the service bays. He's been on yota's for 4 yrs. now. He said watch the reservoir level and for drips. But its fine.

 

[ToyotaDoodz]

I spoke with My Toyota tech today and he told me whats happening. My 03 V8 was doing the same thing. He says its the plastic reservoir expanding and contracting. Like mentioned earlier its purging. He's a good tech, was a Acura tech before but went to Toyota b/c they have full A/C in the service bays. He's been on yota's for 4 yrs. now. He said watch the reservoir level and for drips. But its fine.

OK, then ask him why it did not do this until I hit 30,000+ miles? Go back and read my original posts at the top of the thread and you'll see why I'm still concerned. This was not present from the start, rather it just began out of the blue.

There's only one explanation that makes "logical" sense to me and that's a leak. I just haven't been able to find it . . . yet.

 

[saaggie]

I will ask. I didn't smell it till we hit 90 degree weather here in San Antonio.