smkd13's Build Thread

Launch control?

Sick sliders though!

Launch controls will be attached in line to left and right front brakes. They allow me to engage the brakes independently from each other.

How is this useful you may ask?

Well lets say that you have one front tire in the air and the other on the ground. Push the button and lock the brake on the wheel in the air. Due to the mechanics of an open diff, this will instead of diverting power to the spinning wheel it diverts power to the wheel still on the ground. Kind of like a simulated locker ;)

You shall see in Moab bud
 
Launch controls will be attached in line to left and right front brakes. They allow me to engage the brakes independently from each other.

How is this useful you may ask?

Well lets say that you have one front tire in the air and the other on the ground. Push the button and lock the brake on the wheel in the air. Due to the mechanics of an open diff, this will instead of diverting power to the spinning wheel it diverts power to the wheel still on the ground. Kind of like a simulated locker ;)

You shall see in Moab bud

keep us updated on how this works a video would be awesome as well!
 
Launch controls will be attached in line to left and right front brakes. They allow me to engage the brakes independently from each other.

How is this useful you may ask?

Well lets say that you have one front tire in the air and the other on the ground. Push the button and lock the brake on the wheel in the air. Due to the mechanics of an open diff, this will instead of diverting power to the spinning wheel it diverts power to the wheel still on the ground. Kind of like a simulated locker ;)

You shall see in Moab bud

interesting..
not sure if im quite fully on board with how this well this will work or if its a better option then a locker. but obviously more affordable im assuming.
Not doubting you at all, actually more curious to see how it works! let us know!!
 
Launch controls will be attached in line to left and right front brakes. They allow me to engage the brakes independently from each other.

How is this useful you may ask?

Well lets say that you have one front tire in the air and the other on the ground. Push the button and lock the brake on the wheel in the air. Due to the mechanics of an open diff, this will instead of diverting power to the spinning wheel it diverts power to the wheel still on the ground. Kind of like a simulated locker ;)

You shall see in Moab bud

Interesting concept. I'm curious to see how well this works. Some newer SUVs come with this system from the factory, albeit automatically engaged. Thumbs up!
 
I'm about to order the sliders also. Question, where will you get them welded on? I'm unsure what type of shop to look for to weld on sliders.
 
Last edited:
The theory works, and i've used it before in situation where front is slipping, have your foot on the break 50% to stop the loose wheel from spinning then throttle to give power to the wheel with most traction. but you can never stop the 1 wheel independently with that. if this works well i'll be doing it to mine as well. assumming i still have ifs next year.
 
cool. it should work just fine. Like a manual traction control on vehicles that use the ABS for it instead of limiting throttle.
 
Am I the only one who realizes that this 4Runner is a 2001 model?

The Toyota VSC/Trac system is factory equipment on this model year, and the traction control side of that system already performs the function he's going for, in the same way he's trying to do it. It actually works pretty well if you give it a chance.

The mod sounds good in theory, but I'm not sure it's going to work any better than the existing Trac system. I can picture it being kind of cumbersome, especially because the only time it will be necessary is when a front tire is off the ground... not exactly a time you want to be messing around with a switch and taking your attention off the task at hand.

Unlike the factory traction control system, which will automatically STOP braking the wheel in question, this system will have to be manually switched on/off at each front corner, each time it is needed.
 
Last edited:
Am I the only one who realizes that this 4Runner is a 2001 model?

The Toyota VSC/Trac system is factory equipment on this model year, and the traction control side of that system already performs the function he's going for, in the same way he's trying to do it. It actually works pretty well if you give it a chance.

The mod sounds good in theory, but I'm not sure it's going to work any better than the existing Trac system. I can picture it being kind of cumbersome, especially because the only time it will be necessary is when a front tire is off the ground... not exactly a time you want to be messing around with a switch and taking your attention off the task at hand.

Unlike the factory traction control system, which will automatically STOP braking the wheel in question, this system will have to be manually switched on/off at each front corner, each time it is needed.

Very valid point indeed. I have VSC/TRAC system completely disabled and the farther I get the more and more disabled it will become. I know that it uses the same concept to maintain traction. My ultimate goal is to gain more control of when it activates.

Honestly I have never been a fan of traction control systems. Hence why the first mod I did was the Andymod. I have already had my truck in situation that it would have been beneficial to have it.

With me it is a personal thing. Most of the system will be rendered useless when I delete the ABS as if I am correct it uses the speed sensors from the wheels to operate the ASC/TRAC system. But with respect to that, can you clarify this for me:

Is the speedometer solely based off of the sensors in the wheels? Is there a sensor in the transfer case as well? I can't find a definite answer for the 01-02 models.
 
I'm about to order the sliders also. Question, where will you get them welded on? I'm unsure what type of shop to look for to weld on sliders.

I will be doing the welding on these, I am no pro but i do know how to weld and trust my welds enough to run them. As for the kind of shop to look for: any fabrication shop should be able to do it. I always ask if when they do it I can be present when they put them on so I can make sure they sit how I want them to.

The theory works, and i've used it before in situation where front is slipping, have your foot on the break 50% to stop the loose wheel from spinning then throttle to give power to the wheel with most traction. but you can never stop the 1 wheel independently with that. if this works well i'll be doing it to mine as well. assumming i still have ifs next year.

pretty much it is the same concept as the 50% braking thing. Been there, dont that lol. It is about 125 just for the two units from B&M or you can get a kit that has a switch and fuse and all the wiring for about 180. next year, planning a SAS are ya??? :banana:

Like a poor man's ATRAC. I'm intrigued.

pretty much, or at least a more controllable ATRAC system. Factory is nice but the damned thing always turns on when i don't want it to. Plus having no swaybars mixed with body roll doesn't really play nice with the yaw sensor for factory lol

cool. it should work just fine. Like a manual traction control on vehicles that use the ABS for it instead of limiting throttle.

yes pretty much and IIRC the 01-02 use ABS to monitor and a combination of throttle retardation and braking to maintain traction. This I can have full throttle use and independent braking.
 
Oh yeah, after getting high on paint fumes and still having paint on my arms that won't come off, I have the sliders ready to go on. Nice pretty matte black. :)

uzazuze2.jpg

tybe8a3a.jpg


Btw if your wondering the feet are not painted. Five days as these b*tches will be mounted :)
 
Well got my CB installed a few days ago. Been fighting with it to get the SWR down to a good level. Btw for for to post it but I ended up getting a Uniden Pro520XL.

7y4a2asy.jpg


With the help of a few members on TW I ended up replacing the bolt on top with a SS 2.5" 1/4-20 bolt. And that allowed me to get a reading of 1.3
 
Well got my CB installed a few days ago. Been fighting with it to get the SWR down to a good level. Btw for for to post it but I ended up getting a Uniden Pro520XL.

7y4a2asy.jpg


With the help of a few members on TW I ended up replacing the bolt on top with a SS 2.5" 1/4-20 bolt. And that allowed me to get a reading of 1.3
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top