Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build

the way the linkages move in the back is not exactly logical. instead of sliding, the link forces the rubber to flex and the metal tube stays stationary. because of this, the torque spec is very high on these, i believe they are over 100lb ft. one thing that is not mentioned anywhere is that after you change the ride height of your truck, lift it, you need to go and undo and retorque all of these rubber bushings so they are relaxed at ride height. I have never ever seen anyone mention this in any lift tutorials nor instruction manuals, i figured it out when i loosened my rear links and saw them twist. the bonded bushings are great for cars but i cant believe they use them on something that has more than 4 inches of travel. anyways, im working on some links with poly bushings, and they slide around instead. got the uppers done, and half way done on the lowers, I used 4th gen poly bushings from energy suspension, and they are the beef.

also how is that speed sensor ring attached on? I was thinking if i machined my own I could press it on, and do the same on the front, in order to correct my tach and speedo.
 

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You are absolutely correct, camber gain.

Desert racing vehicles do still have unequal length arms usually, but the difference in length between the upper and lower arms is small because with all that damn travel they have they still get the same camber gain properties in the end.

Btw that story about the jeep kids taking their internet points photos then leaving was hilarious. Never saw very much of that at my school, New Mexico is too poor to have privileged kids like that.

ive also heard its to minimize tire scrub, due to change in track width. from what i understand and have seen, at full bump the top of the tire angles inwards /....\, then at ride height the tire is straight up and down |--|, then at full droop the top of the tire angles inward /''''\. this would keep the track width equal throughout the entire cycle since the track width would narrow if the tire remained verticle, but during cornering it would still allow the tire to have negative camber with respect to the body, preventing it from suddenly folding over or something weird. if you were rock crawling equal length arms with the joints spaced farther on the tires than on the frame would give you a solid axle effect, this is kind of like the horrible yet effective ford twin traction beam ifs.

edit: here this is better than forward and back slash, i need to take some actual measurement and plug em into my model here, then we can see how much travel we can really get out of the front end, I suspect not much more than 11".
 

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the way the linkages move in the back is not exactly logical. instead of sliding, the link forces the rubber to flex and the metal tube stays stationary. because of this, the torque spec is very high on these, i believe they are over 100lb ft. one thing that is not mentioned anywhere is that after you change the ride height of your truck, lift it, you need to go and undo and retorque all of these rubber bushings so they are relaxed at ride height. I have never ever seen anyone mention this in any lift tutorials nor instruction manuals, i figured it out when i loosened my rear links and saw them twist. the bonded bushings are great for cars but i cant believe they use them on something that has more than 4 inches of travel. anyways, im working on some links with poly bushings, and they slide around instead. got the uppers done, and half way done on the lowers, I used 4th gen poly bushings from energy suspension, and they are the beef.

also how is that speed sensor ring attached on? I was thinking if i machined my own I could press it on, and do the same on the front, in order to correct my tach and speedo.

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That is how all rubber bushings are intended to work.

Regarding the rear links.. you are partly correct. The bushings do rotate as the suspension cycles, but they also have something called a pry angle, which is found when the rear axle has non-uniform movement (aka flex). What this means is that when flexing, the bushings allow the link to rotate axially so that the bolts on each end are no longer parallel.
Poly bushings do not allow this movement, so you can start breaking control arm mounts if you don't build some rotational ability into those links.

Sorry if I come off like a know it all douche, but I know this because I also made this mistake and had to remake the RR links that I built to have more axial rotation. See here:
Ripcord's Build: RR Links
Just trying to save you the headache :rapture:


Finally, regarding the speedo. Since you are pretty handy I figure this would be the easiest and cheapest method for you.
 
Learn something new everyday. Also if you correct your speedo, that won't help keep your mileage down. I like reporting to my insurance that I drive 15% less than I actually do.
 
That is how all rubber bushings are intended to work.

Regarding the rear links.. you are partly correct. The bushings do rotate as the suspension cycles, but they also have something called a pry angle, which is found when the rear axle has non-uniform movement (aka flex). What this means is that when flexing, the bushings allow the link to rotate axially so that the bolts on each end are no longer parallel.
Poly bushings do not allow this movement, so you can start breaking control arm mounts if you don't build some rotational ability into those links.

Sorry if I come off like a know it all douche, but I know this because I also made this mistake and had to remake the RR links that I built to have more axial rotation. See here:
Ripcord's Build: RR Links
Just trying to save you the headache :rapture:


Finally, regarding the speedo. Since you are pretty handy I figure this would be the easiest and cheapest method for you.

thats insteresting considering the oe bushings were a solid chunk of rubber with no reliefs. the bushings i pressed in are a 3 piece deal that are meant to replace the oem bushings on a 4th gen, with the center piece being shaped to mimic a johnny joint, i didnt just order a random bushing. the other thing is, because the engineers at toyota actually did their work there is not very much rotation on the upper links.

Energy Suspension 83129R Rear Control Arm Bushing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IZ85DW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_u34rwb49Z6C2M

Edit: just read through your thread to the issue you had with the ucas, seems like you just didn't torque down the bolt enough, the torque spec is very very high on the bolts for linkages because they tend to flex around. I Appreciate the heads up though, it would suck to have something happen like that all of the sudden.
 
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thats insteresting considering the oe bushings were a solid chunk of rubber with no reliefs. the bushings i pressed in are a 3 piece deal that are meant to replace the oem bushings on a 4th gen, with the center piece being shaped to mimic a johnny joint, i didnt just order a random bushing. the other thing is, because the engineers at toyota actually did their work there is not very much rotation on the upper links.

Energy Suspension 83129R Rear Control Arm Bushing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IZ85DW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_u34rwb49Z6C2M

Edit: just read through your thread to the issue you had with the ucas, seems like you just didn't torque down the bolt enough, the torque spec is very very high on the bolts for linkages because they tend to flex around. I Appreciate the heads up though, it would suck to have something happen like that all of the sudden.

Even solid rubber has more give to it than Poly bushings. Those bushings you got are pretty sweet though and will be better than a standard 1 or 2 piece poly setup, but I would still recommend having an actual rod end on one side. Another thing to consider is the stock solid rods can twist a lot more than a strong piece of boxed steel, so that is even more rotation you are taking out of the system all while trying to increase wheel travel more than the stock design.

Regarding my issues, you are mixing up two totally different events. I never had an issue from the solid poly links I made, I fixed them before I took them offroad. That point when one came loose was indeed improper torque though.

Now, we can continue this on your thread if you want, lets get out of Sniv's thread.
 
This weekend we finally got some decent snow wheeling in! This will be two posts, one pertaining to Saturday and one to today.

On Saturday [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] and I went up to Willard peak, via a trail coming out of Mantua. The peak eventually overlooks the salt lake valley, and I had never been on it before.

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This was the SECOND time we have had our two rigs running at the same time since we began our long travel builds in August of last year! And this was the first trip of the 1st gen with the new fiberglass. The way up was pretty uneventful, besides some wires getting a little hot on the 1st gen.

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Those prerunner asses :D :D

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Soon after my girlfriend spotted some moose on the ridge opposite of us.

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I think it's funny how much the fiberglass changes the appearance of the 1st gen. Before I feel like you could see some resemblance to the 3rd gen and that they were both 4Runners, and now the 1st gen just looks like this mean little mosquito that's ready to pounce.

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The 1st gen was in lead and did great up until this point, then we aired him down to 10psi or so and it chugged onward. A little later I took lead through a deeper section. I run 25psi nominally, so without airing down the 3rd gen just chewed through the snow in the steep sections. I can say the MTZs have definitely impressed me in the deep powder as well as on ice (for what they are at least, and having never had dedicated winter tires). I think what notice most is the wider track of the 35s than my old skinny 33s, since obviously an inch of ground clearance gain isn't a lot but the fact you're always putting down 30% more tread makes the real difference.

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I REALLY like this picture. We went down a little side trail from the summit to this point (had to turn around because of my girlfriends work schedule). At the summit there was probably 10" of powder where it wasn't blown away.

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Neat overlook here

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It was kinda weird, I kept thinking this town was at the bottom of the valley we live in, but we were a mountain range over so had to cross these peaks if we had made a direct path home. Apparently there are trails that go over these mountains, you can see lots of little trails that head in that direction, so one day we'll explore those.

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The long travel monster

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And its' long lost cousin

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Last two pictures here, but far from the end of the story. First on this corner, which was the one where I took over lead since it was steep and fairly deep coming around, we ran into a Land Rover LR2 (I think) who was bone stock and had some winter tires. I was impressed he made it that far and he kept going too, though we had made tracks up and back down already :bigok: And then behind him some Jeeps showed up. This part was something out of a comedy, though it was really cool I think. So Cartzo and I are pulled off to the side since the 1st gens charcoal canister had come loose so we were fixing it, the Land Rover is scared to go around so he is waiting for us to squeeze around. The Jeeps show up so the Land Rover guy goes down to talk to them. He comes back to us and tells us they are ALL deaf.

We're like what? And he says he went to the first guy and the guy says "I'm deaf", so he walks to the second guy and he says the same thing. Then he points to the 3rd guy and the 2nd guy nods his head. He said he wasn't sure what to do after that, and we had no idea what they were doing since they had two XJs and a TJ, and the TJ had turned around but the XJs hadn't and the TJ was in the middle. So I'm trying to figure out what to do, we pull forward around the Land Rover who I guess was afraid he would slide into us, especially since mine was so wide. So we pull forward, and I run down to the first guy with an XJ and have my phone and type onto it that we can pull into this pull out next to him and then his group can pull past. He seems to understand what I'm talking about as him and I are pointing to everything. He shakes his head and I run back, and the whole time he's using sign language to communicate with the other people in his group what to do. We pull off to the side and then the first XJ and the TJ pass, and then the second XJ motions for us to go past. I don't know if they broke down or what, but I figured they had their buddies so nothing we could really do. It was funny but also really sweet, as we try to figure out how to communicate to this deaf offroading group. Find out something new every time on the trail!

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And long story short, after this ordeal we continue down the road and (from our trail diagnosis) the 1st gen grenades his front diff or a bearing or something, the 3rd gen leaves with our two girlfriends and one of our buddies driving it (who had never driven it before) since my girlfriend had to get to work. We limp the 1st gen to the bottom of the trail down the iciest, scariest section of road I've ever been on. Then we pull into town, luckily he has 2WD and lockable hubs so we can disengage the front diff entirely. We are within 300ft of the highway and the engine completely dies, and so far our best guess is the timing chain snapped. 3rd gen drops my girlfriend off and an hour later returns to tow the 1st gen home.

There's always an issue with the 1st gen or the 3rd gen, its been 15 months and they've only been running at the same time for two trips now. It's super frustrating... Anyways, it was a fun trip and besides the last 3 miles of it everything for both rigs was going great!
 
Post #2. I'm sorry for all the pictures by the way, but I guess that's a lot of the reason for having these threads...

Today my buddy who used to have the XJ invited me to go shooting, which I knew would lead to wheeling since we were going up Logan canyon and fairly high. We had another truck with us, an 88 pickup that's essentially stock.

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I don't know how many people have followed my build from near the beginning, but this is the same trail the XJ and I have gone on before and at this point in the past we couldn't make it any further. It's called Swan Flats, and is a popular snowmobile spot. We stopped where we had gotten stuck long ago, and did some shooting for an hour or so. After that I decided to air down since we were going to try and finish the loop we were on, which none of us had ever completed in the snow previously. The truck had some chains he threw on, and I aired down to 4psi. The automatic air down Staun's are essentially useless at those pressures, we even got to the point where we just unscrewed the guts out of them so they would just screw on and let air out without stopping and it still took forever to air down to 4psi. I'm sure for some people there's nothing impressive about this, but this is the lowest I've ever run or even seen anyone ever run in person, so it's kinda interesting the side effects that occur with running larger tires and low pressure.

Anyways, we completed the loop without issue. Probably 12" of snow or so at the most, nothing crazy. We got back to the beginning of the trail and it was only 3:30, so we decided to go down the highway to Franklin Basin and head towards Gibson lakes. I've been there a few times in the past, and the snow gets pretty deep. We didn't air up since it was only 5 miles or so, but the truck took his chains off.

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Probably 10-15 miles down the road of Franklin Basin and we got to the turn off.

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I appeared to be leaking power steering fluid right here for some reason, just a little drip. Not surprised considering how bad a shape the rack is in, and I never lost power steering but was kinda weird and a little sketchy considering how far from humanity we were and there had been no tire tracks since we got off the highway. Regardless we plowed on, I had spare fluid anyways. At this point the truck aired down but only to 10psi or so.

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Not long after he started getting stuck. The key was for me to make tracks and he would follow in them, and even then he would have issues.

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Finally I was in snow that warranted having beadlocks! And they impressed me a lot! The runner just kept chugging through the powder. The key seemed to be to keep the rpms low, since if the tires started spinning and digging we would just stop and sink. Going fairly slow we would stay floating and crawling. There were a few times that didn't work, and we would have to gain momentum and plow a bit, and then back up and slowly crawl over the snow mound we made and get back up above it, but I was SUPER impressed! I think lockers would of helped for sure, but I think beadlocks alone took me further than lockers would of, and my buddy who's XJ had been dual locked thought the same. Of course, we weren't at super low pressure and could of gone lower but I was blown away at what having all open diffs and just 4psi on 35s was doing.

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Not long after the truck started having a lot of issues even following in our ruts, the snow was probably 18" of powder and that wasn't counting the snow under the tires.

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We decided to turn back once we got to a little turn around spot since we didn't want to leave our buddy, let alone if we got stuck it wouldn't be fun to winch back around. We got pretty close to the first of two lakes, probably a quarter or half mile from it.

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I'm hoping next weekend we can go back and have some other people come. I know a guy we helped save a year ago who has a red toyota truggy that said he'll come, and if the little truck chains up I think he could follow in the tracks a lot better. I really want to spend a day and see how far we can get, air down even lower and stuff. It's supposed to snow more this week so hopefully I can get some intense snow wheeling in next weekend! Sorry for the massive photo dump :D
 
Since my girlfriend is working this weekend, and she has today off we decided to go up one of the local trails and see how far we could get. I also invited my buddy who has the red 3rd gen since he works on the weekends as well, and I wasn't really planning on pushing very hard if conditions got bad.

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To reiterate, his has a Toytec 3" lift and some 285 BFGs, otherwise stock and open diffs front and rear and no traction control.

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I started at 4psi since I accidentally aired down further than wanted to at the beginning of the trail. I thought my Staun air downs were only good to 8psi but I guess they go lower, so I had them essentially screwed all the way out and after a few minutes at the trailhead realized I was under 4psi in three of the tires, so I aired them back up a little.

My buddy's 3rd gen aired down to 15psi after we hit the snow, and then further after he couldn't make it up this hill he dropped it to 10.

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The runner had a little trouble on the same hill, and I had to backdown a little and bump it near the top since I had hit some icy ground and slipped a little. 4psi is certainly awesome in the snow!

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Fast forwarding, my buddy ran lead until we got to this spot and the drifts were too tall for him. After I pulled him out, I took up the front but couldn't make it. I'm starting to figure out technique for deep snow, which is cool because in the past I couldn't even get to areas where the snow is three or four feet deep, let alone be confident I can keep down the trail. I think if I had been in lead I would of been fine, but since the other runner wasn't aired down as much he just plowed through, and since the snow was taller than the middle of the tire (let alone the whole tire) I couldn't crawl over the snow and stay on top of it. At that point it's fruitless since the bumper is just plowing snow.

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I got stuck at this point when I tried to use momentum to plow through, and I wasn't fast enough to stop the tires from spinning and stopping from digging so I could backup. One time I admit a manual would be superior, since the torque converters momentum is hard to stop and definitely not fast to stop.

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I got yanked back, we decided to turn around even though we were literally a few hundred feet from the summit of mount Logan. It was essentially a blizzard up there, windy and snowing hard, and it was about 4pm and we didn't want to be up there very late in the dark. I think if we had filled up the trenches and dropped pressure lower we could of made it though.

Eventually my buddy slid off the road in his attempt to turn around.

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Slightly precarious looking after I tried to yank his front end back onto the trail

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I was slipping a little in the tracks we had left when I tried to get beyond him, so I could try to pull him backwards onto the trail and get the ass end to come down, so I aired down to 2psi and crawled around him. I then plowed some tracks as far against the side of the trail as I could so I could pull him onto the trail versus parallel to it. I don't know if this really warranted 2psi since the runner had been fine the rest of the time in the snow, but I didn't want to slide into him and thought I was gonna have to be plowing through quite a bit of snow and pulling him at the same time, so better to be safe.

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Everything turned out well, got him back onto the trail and turned around. From there on out it was easy sailing.

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I stayed at 2psi going down most of the trail. I waited until we got to a section that HAD been free of snow, though on the way back had about 6" of new powder just since we had been driving around. Here I aired back up to 10-15psi since I didn't want to risk slicing a sidewall on the rest of the trail, which is mostly rocky.

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2psi

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Nothing exciting for the last couple miles of trail. I was impressed how well the other 3rd gen did, I never understood until the last few years that airing down is 90% of the traction game for snow wheeling, so it's cool to go up with a pretty stock rig and cruise around a lot. I'm looking forward to wheeling this weekend with some built rigs though and blasting around at 2psi and see what we can really do.
 
I love this build. You certainly get out and use it too. I haven't been through all of it, but have been keeping up with it the last few weeks. You've got some beautiful scenery there and that 2 PSI shot is killer!
 
Hey Toby. You doing anything to try and keep ice and snow from sticking to the bottom of the truck? Or just let it build up and kick it off?
 
I love this build. You certainly get out and use it too. I haven't been through all of it, but have been keeping up with it the last few weeks. You've got some beautiful scenery there and that 2 PSI shot is killer!

Thanks man! Offroading, pictures, and posting on here are my hobbies haha, I just wish I had the money to throw down for some sweet armor like you've been getting!

Hey Toby. You doing anything to try and keep ice and snow from sticking to the bottom of the truck? Or just let it build up and kick it off?

If you're referring to all the snow piled on my slider, that's not under the truck Patrick. But no, I don't do anything. I think yesterday a little bit finally melted and fell off from the trip over the weekend though. I do plan to wash it soon, mainly to keep all those joints happy especially with salt being imminent on the roads.
 
Thanks man! Offroading, pictures, and posting on here are my hobbies haha, I just wish I had the money to throw down for some sweet armor like you've been getting!

Those are pretty much my hobbies too haha. I'm trying to get mine ready for the upcoming spring. I tried to keep it stock for as long as I could, but I can't resist anymore haha. I want to get out and do more wheeling this upcoming year, even though there isn't much in this area. All the cool guys into Toyotas, offroading, and the outdoors in general seem to be out west...
 
Photo dump from a quick trip to pass some time today.

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I need bigger tires. Hopefully someday I'll move up to 37s... :whistle:

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Well the 3.4 shit itself. 100% my fault, the radiator cracked because I hit the perfect height rock. I don't have a front skid since after I destroyed my last two I didn't have time to make another one (or buy) over the summer, plus the OEM mounts had been literally ripped off. One of the hazards of snow wheeling is not seeing big rocks... Long story short is both heads are warped.

Long story is I went up to a local trailhead, my girlfriend and I had been debating going wheeling in the snow but I had seen that some local car guys had wanted to try to go up to this trailhead so figured we could convoy up if they needed help. At the top a Subaru WRX with us got super stuck, not surprising at all. I was impressed with how it was doing, but once the snow became powdery and not packed down it couldn't do anything to save it. The best bet was for me to drive around it and pull it forward since we were almost at the parking lot, and there we would turn it around.

Scouting out the parking lot:

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We pull it up there, then begin this tedious operation of turning it around. The WRX had this shitty little tow hook thing that would thread in behind the bumper, and was just a little eyelet. I was nervous pulling it at too sharp of an angle because I figured it would bend over to the side or just plain rip/shear off and hurt the Subaru. So we spent probably an hour pulling it forward and back at the sharpest feasible angle to turn it around. During one of these turn arounds I drove onto what I thought was a dirt berm in the center of the parking lot, turned out it was a rock completely covered in snow. Apparently it was the perfect height to nail the radiator too.

So my first mistake was not having a skid in the front. My second mistake was not checking the radiator when I hit this rock. I've hit things in the front before, and it felt like the bumper had just hit it so didn't think more than a second that it was worth checking. Fast forward probably 20 minutes and I've been helping recover the Subaru, we have it turned around and about to head back down the trail. I get in the runner and notice the heater is off so turn it on, and my girlfriend says that it had stopped blowing heat so she had turned the fan off. I instantly knew the radiator had been busted and leaked all the coolant out, thus the heater core wasn't full of coolant and was blowing cold air now.

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I turned the truck off, the temp gauge was rising, but not red yet. I figured it was too late already, I have NEVER seen the temperature gauge move and the fact the engine was so hot that the temp sensor was heating up despite no coolant flowing past it was a sure sign the engine was way too hot. Luckily this little WRX was now unstuck and back on the ruts of the road. We hooked up my snatch strap and he ended up towing us all the way home. An amazing feature of the later 3rd gens is an electronic brake booster, which never gets due credit. I had always wondered, and now it was confirmed, but if your engine dies the brake booster still works 100% which is nice. On the flip side, my battery is now stone cold dead. By the time we got home, you could hear (what I assume was) the brake booster still attempting to boost the brake system--the battery was so dead though that my hazards wouldn't even flash. When we pulled into our apartment parking lot I still had brake pressure though! Really really nice I have to say, especially considering we drove down a canyon and lost 3500ft of elevation, and having to brake without boost would of been annoying to say the least.

On the flip side, my hazards weren't working and your typical Utah driver is a complete moron. I have literally NO lights externally on the truck, my girlfriend and I have this little LED flashlight we're attempting to use. At one four way stop (which I think the Subaru should of just ran since no one was at it), the Subaru stops, then starts going, and this old woman in this little Buick or something pulls up to the stop sign and barely stops and then takes off. For perspective, we are turning left, she enters the stop sign from our right, and she is turning left. So we have a snatch strap hooked to me, the subaru goes, then this woman goes and doesn't notice in any way the subaru has hazards on, I have no lights, and there is a 3" wide strap connecting us. I'm sitting there like holy shit, hitting the horn which of course isn't working either because of the dead battery. The woman seems to notice at the last instant something is up, so she slows down, and then KEEPS GOING. The snatch strap is right in front of her, bright orange ARB strap. It catches on the lip of her hood and starts to slide under her hood. One of the guys in the WRX has jumped out now and is running over yelling to stop, which FINALLY she does. She then jams it in reverse and backs up, and some part of her hood or latch, I have no idea, pops out as the snatch strap which is tensioned is pulled out from under her hood.

The guy gets her to stop randomly driving everywhere, and the Subaru pulls us through this intersection that this idiot driver and I are hogging. The guy talks to her after she pulls over, and I have no idea what they say but eventually she takes off. Moral of the story is, if you think something is up, be cautious and try to think. Granted it was night time, but everyone could clearly see the snatch strap in this intersection and obviously something is up if a car has their hazards on. And the fact the woman slowed down, and then proceeded to keep going like she thought she could dart around me seems excessively stupid.


Anyways! Checked the engine compression the next day, compression was:

Passenger bank:
1 - 145psi
3 - 130psi
5 - 90psi

Drivers bank:
2 - 110psi
4 - 60psi
6 - 90psi

Apparently the FSM calls for at most 15psi difference between cylinders, and regardless it's pretty obvious that there's enough various that both banks are blown.

I've now been debating what to do. I've wanted to do an engine swap for awhile, and this seems like the opportune moment EXCEPT I live in an apartment and only going home for a week for winter break. I have three main options:
Fix the 3.4 - no upgrading the guts, only doing the bare minimum of replacing the head gaskets and surfacing the heads
Swap a 3.4 - Take it to a friends house and swap engines
Swap a V8 - Take it to a friends house and do what I actually want, but who knows how long that'll last

I keep leaning one way then another, I think what will happen is I'll just tear the heads down in the parking lot and get them surfaced and put the top end back together. Probably next summer I'll end up swapping an engine, I know everyone is die hard Toyota but it'd probably be a Chevy engine since I can upgrade it whenever I want, it's cheap, relatively simple swap, will fit easily in the engine bay, etc. Really the only thing better about a Toyota engine is the Toyota stamping. Regardless, I don't have the resources to swap an engine without a lot of hassle, so doing the minimum parking lot fix will probably be what happens. I have no idea what the bottom end is like, so I can just assume the heads being blown is why the compression is low, then put it back together and hopefully have higher compression. This engine has been beat to death, so I think this is the calling card for an engine swap come summer time.

To make the decision harder, there is a LS400 Lexus online for $800 that runs and drives. 1UZ V8, the engine with bell housing will bolt up directly to my A340F. I really want to get this, but I think that will be biting off more than I can chew. Like I said I would rather get a more modular platform like a Chevy anyways, and doing a V8 swap will probably turn out like the LT where it's a 3 month endeavor because I don't have the right tools or the money to buy those tools.

Additionally, I've researched and found that the radiator on manuals (or at least 2WD Manual according to one forum) is 4" shorter than what I'm guessing the one I have is. There were three OEM radiators, 22", 20", and 18" roughly. Either way I have one of the taller ones. Since I have an external tranny cooler I'll order the shorter radiator and I won't lose any cooling capacity, and the radiator should be tucked under the frame then. And of course over the summer I'll get a new front skid too.

That was a lot of writing, if anyone actually happened to read through it and wants to share their opinion of what to do about my engine I'm all ears. I have finals next week, so the engine won't be torn apart (assuming I go that route) for a little bit at least.
 
Poor truck.

I know what it's like to have limited time to work in a good garage during school vacations. I would suggest you just try to make it easy on yourself and either rebuild/swap the 3.4. You would spread yourself too thin with a v8 swap on top of everything else. You're LT seems to have finally stopped giving you grief, and it would be cool to see you enjoy it for what it is, especially now that there's snow on the ground.
 

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