so i replaced my CV axles,obj,ubj, intr, otr

[Predatorhouse]

So I replaced all this on both sides and now on the passenger side I have this sound. I got under there and looked at everything,did the old push and pull on all to see if anything is loose. I did't really see anything that looks out of place. The sound, is kind of a clunk rattle like something might be loose. I did notice that the arm that the ubj is on was rubbing the tire at the treads when I turned, so I got some 1 1/4" spacers I only put passenger front on and drove around the block but the sound is still there. Sound stops when I break

 

[Predatorhouse]

No one really... 80 people looked at this and no one has even a "oh yeah it might be this"

 

[KidVermicious]

Sound stops when I break

Sounds stops when you break what? :flipoff:

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you have a loose caliper. If it's not that your best bet is a loose strut that's rattling until you load it by decelerating. Those are just guesses though. 50,000 people could view this thread and it won't matter - none of us can see your truck, and none of us can do more than guess what's making noises. Keep looking, you'll find it.

 

[Predatorhouse]

sound stops when I hit the breaks. I called a friend and said that since I changed everything but the sway bar links to check those. So i did and I noticed that one side was tightened down at the top more.(passenger side) so I loosened it a bit, then went over to the driver side and was going to even them out. The joint at the bottom of the driver's side moved excessively loose and the passenger's was tight. So I guess my question is can I take the sway bar off and still drive the vehicle

 

[KidVermicious]

So I guess my question is can I take the sway bar off and still drive the vehicle

Yes.

 

[Predatorhouse]

Thanks man

 

[Predatorhouse]

Oh yeah I had thought about the caliper and the strut. Just havent dove in to it that deep yet.

 

[MStudt]

I seriously doubt having one sway link tightened more than another is your issue. I could be wrong, but things that are over tightened don't rattle until they break.

 

[Predatorhouse]

what about the joint at the bottom being bad on one side?

 

[tinman]

what about the joint at the bottom being bad on one side?

You mean the lower ball joint being bad? In your title it says ...obj... Should have been lbj, meaning Lower Ball Joints? (Thinking that the o was a typo?) If not, what's the obj you are referring to?

If you did replace the upper & lower ball joints, I doubt the lower ball joint would be bad...but may be loose. Check the lower ball joint bolts to make sure they're still tight. There should be lock-tight on the 4 bolts that hold the LBJ on.

My (shot in the dark) guess is maybe the dust shield behind the rotor got bent while you were working on the 4R & now is hitting while you drive...but stops (for whatever reason) when you apply the brakes? Although that sound would usually be a "brushing" sound though, not a "clunk rattle".

 

[MStudt]

what about the joint at the bottom being bad on one side?

I still doubt it. The links can make noise when your suspension is moving, and even when breaking it's still moving. Since the sway bar links are not connected in any way to the brakes, I'm not seeing the connection. If the noise stops when you apply the brakes this is the first place I'd be looking.

You can take off the sway bar links and bungee your sway bar up. Take it for a drive and see what happens. Did you check the bushings on your actually sway bar to make sure they're not toast?

Another thing since you have a lift. Check your rear shocks to make sure they're still tight. I had an issue that I thought was related to something being loose on the front end. After searching for days I found out that may rear shocks had worked there way loose. Once I tightened them back up the rattle sound went away.

 

[mountain mike]

Did you properly torque everything back to factory specs? That would take a lot of the guess work out of something is loose or not...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129548-torque-specs.html

 

[FC1RETIRED]

Double check hub/knuckle assembly. If it didn't make the noise before you replaced parts, chances are pretty good it pertains to something that was re-assembled and/or replaced. Perhaps there is just enough looseness to make noise when driving. During breaking, everything gets snug and noise stops. just my shot in dark.

 

[Predatorhouse]

so I removed both sway bar links and then did a big loop around the neighborhood and the clunking is almost completely gone. but I did not remove the bar so that could have been the little bit of noise I heard.

bump: yes I meant lbj , ubj, otr, intr, and cv axle.

 

[Predatorhouse]

I did not remove the actual bar yet but the noise is still there but now I hear a simular sound on the driver's side so Im going to take the bar off, it may be bouncing around and yes I did safty wire it up .

 

[Myrunr2010]

so I removed both sway bar links and then did a big loop around the neighborhood and the clunking is almost completely gone. but I did not remove the bar so that could have been the little bit of noise I heard.

bump: yes I meant lbj , ubj, otr, intr, and cv axle.

both my end links for the sway bar were broken when i bought the truck, and i drove it for a few months like that with no issue. I finally replaced them, and after about a week of driving i started to get a clunking sound. I assumed that the swaybar to frame bushings were shot, but it ended up being one of the sway bar end links had backed off and was loose, causing it to move up and down with the suspension and make a terrible noise.

Hope you get it figured out man!

 

[Predatorhouse]

So went over to a friends house, he works on cars for a living. Jacked the runner up and he pushed and pulled on the wheel. He noticed that my rack was moving so I went and bought a rack bushing kit. I took the collar off and replaced the bigger of the three but I kind of think I have to take the rack out to do the rest. Any body know what to do?

 

[mountain mike]

So went over to a friends house, he works on cars for a living. Jacked the runner up and he pushed and pulled on the wheel. He noticed that my rack was moving so I went and bought a rack bushing kit. I took the collar off and replaced the bigger of the three but I kind of think I have to take the rack out to do the rest. Any body know what to do?

You will have to drop the rack, but not all the way. Just undo the 4 bolts and leave the lines attached. If you get a long screw, a few washers and a bolt you can make a small press and use a ratchet to tighten the bolt, the washers will move inward removing the old bushings. You can use the same method to put them back in.

 

[Predatorhouse]

Alright i changed the rack bushings and sway bar links and I noticed the dust shield on the axle where it goes into the spindle was bent(this is on the passenger side). So I took off the tie rod end and LBJ and straightened the dents out. I also noticed the lug bolts(not the actual bolts individually) were loose in the rotars as in all six will shift back and forth, is this normal?

 

[MStudt]

Alright i changed the rack bushings and sway bar links and I noticed the dust shield on the axle where it goes into the spindle was bent(this is on the passenger side). So I took off the tie rod end and LBJ and straightened the dents out. I also noticed the lug bolts(not the actual bolts individually) were loose in the rotars as in all six will shift back and forth, is this normal?

If the studs were loose. That's not normal.